XG BC

welcome here. nicely designed, captures the essence of 12v and the köf very well. space is always at a premium when building models. some sacrifices have to be made.

yes that is true. also the normal dcc trains use something like 14v which is a little much for the 9v motor (could fix this with a lower voltage psu though). the mixing argument is a good one though as dcc is really only a protocoll which you can implement in any way youd like.

i mean you could also use dcc (that might as well been what you thought) to have fully Independent control over the trains while using less wires (some for track power and some for the position detectors. it all depends on how big of a layout you want to build. if it is like on mine where there is just one train running back and forth then "analouge" 9v is the way to go but for bigger layouts for shure go with dcc.

another idea is to use my magnetic train detector. works with all systems because the sensor is seperate of the physical properties of the track (if it conducts electricity or not) other idea is to use an ldr mounted inbetween the tracks or an actual reed sensor or even hall effect sensor. hope this helps you.

it is so the train waits a bit at either end and that the train has enough time to move off the colored part of track before the color sensor is triggered agaon so that it doesnt get "stuck" (take this with a grain of salt as i now nothing about powered up programming)

thank you!

here is a video if it in action: https://flic.kr/p/2nRBEcv

a video of my layout https://flic.kr/p/2nRBEcv

looks very nice! like the detail you put in a lot.

either color sensor or if you are using 9v you can do some clever tricks with electronics: this is how my layout works as i dont have space for a full loop of track.

i was lazy this time and only did a small presentation and linked the details here.

love it with the mouth in the opening and everything.

makes sense even for 9v where there are no batteries but you could run longer trains.

well i dont even think it was made for train fans. it was made for harry potter fans. hence the weird scale and platform details.

you can build realistic in 6 wide but it isnt going to be realistic in terms of scale (8-wide isnt either but a compromise). as for mixing the different styles it works if the train itself is quite "rough" (like a cargo train is).

the skull looks super scary! nice work!

this. we waited almost 20 years.

dont worry i wont!

could do that aswell true. but i have already made a bumper (was required anyways so why not make it sturdy enough to stop the train). that thing should never occur anyways as the system has one moving part and is releiable.

nice! may participate aswell

the side that has the carridge runs into the wall if anything happens anyways but the other side needs a bumper for shure. there isnt too much inertia as the loco is fairly small and the wagon is relatively light.

i want to detect the ends of the train. i think the buffer magnet alone works too but not shure. on one side of it would be a bad time if the sensor fails as the table ends there. may need to build a bumper that can take the impact should this ever happen.

i may get the new main street set. the tram will be pulled by my e69 locomotive though. i have space for the buildings.

the ideal radius is the normal lego curve radius (r40)

thanks. it is essentially a reed switch just different true .