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bogieman

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by bogieman

  1. Your model looks terrific. Always like to see printed bricks, so much better than stickers, but comparatively expensive.
  2. You've jogged my memory now. I was in the group in the early to end of the 1970's that included responsibility for the engine cooling system design. Fairly early in the production run of the GP38-2 and SD38-2 a change to the length of the radiators was made as a cost savings. EMD used radiators sections that were a fixed length and put as many in series as needed to cool the engine properly. The engineer reduced the number of series radiator cores from 5 to 4 and added more blades to the cooling fans to compensate. The photos of the EJ&E 667 you modeled show it was produced with the shorter radiator section so your model is correct for that locomotive. Dave
  3. Looks great! As a retired EMD mechanical engineer, I have to add this is an SD38-2. The SD38 used Flexicoil bogies that had the same wheelbase but a different motor arrangement; the -2 six axle models released starting in 1972 had HTC bogies where the motors all are on the fuel tank side of the axles for reduced weight shift. This necessitated the end transom at the fuel tank end to support the motor nose. Dave
  4. Fabulous work on an ambitious project, love the mechanisms and motion. Dave
  5. Brilliant is all I can say. Thanks for sharing.
  6. Very nice build. As an EMD retiree, I always like to see models our locomotives, even one like this that is before my time there. These are unusual with the ALCO equalizer bogies, instead of the swing hanger (Blomberg) type.
  7. Very nice work on the ALCO version. I have a copy of the operator's manual for the EMD version of the MRS-1, given to me by a co-worker at EMD who designed the multi-gauge bogie braking system for it. There was an EMD one, #1813, at the Transportation Test Center in Pueblo, CO when I did radial bogie testing there.
  8. This is very impressive work, well done! Do you intend to do a spring-loaded point version? Dave
  9. Nice model, that locomotive left the property before I worked at ASF-Granite City for a couple of years. They had a GE centercab when I was there. The second picture in @kozoz's post shows an "F" to define what is the front. Most every locomotive in the US carries a similar designation so it's not ambiguous what end is which when reporting defects, for example.
  10. We think alike. I've never been afraid to cut a part or print a part to get the look I desire. This 3D printed windshield for the EMD E & F units is one of my creations: https://bricktraindepot.com/shop/accessories/resin-printed-f7-windshield/ I'm printing some arch bar truck sideframes as I write this. Dave
  11. Well done, very clever! Those circuit cube motors are amazingly powerful. Dave
  12. Great rendition. I was in London in November and road that line several times. Amazed at how long those have been in service.
  13. Very cool, when I first saw the picture, I thought it was an amusement park bumper car.
  14. Just an update to my post above from 2021. I then reported that I tried the Kadee couplers from Brick Model Railroader and had trouble with them disconnecting on the transitions between flat and grades on my home layout, so I went back to magnets. I had a lot of trouble, though, with the magnets not being strong enough, even the Studly Trains neodymium magnets with supplemental disc magnets such that it limited my train length. About a year ago I finally redid the profile of the grades on my layout to get rid of the worst transitions. I've now sold off all my magnets on ebay and have fully converted to the Kadee's with no issues on the layout or the train length. I've installed magnets below the track in 3D printed track sections that activate the uncoupling capability of the Kadee's at my yard and sidings. Dave
  15. Nice work. The fixed single axle rear truck would have to be built to rotate somehow coupled to the front truck to make it capable of Lego tracks. Always loved the Aerotrain which came out when I was about 6 YO. Started my love of trains and my career at EMD. I've seen both preserved trains, one in Green Bay under roof in great condition, the other in St. Louis, parked outdoors and deteriorating. I hope they someday put it under roof; Google maps shows it's still outside. Dave
  16. That is truly outstanding, what scale is it? I especially like the detail on the trucks as I designed those on the prototype. Dave
  17. The L-motor is geared 1:1 with the drivers so benefits from their larger diameter. In my experience, it's not necessary to worry about closely matching the speeds, the motor characteristics take care of it. It's not much different that IRL putting an SW1500 into a train of SD70's. They all contribute to the total tractive effort according to their abilities. I connect my motors in parallel to the Tsunami2 DDC controller so they all see the same voltage. As long as they aren't experiencing wheelslip, they will find an operating point on the torque-speed curve where they're happy. I'm not sure if it would be any different using a PF infrared receiver for power as that puts out a PWM voltage. This terrific resource shows how all the Lego motors produce more torque as they are slowed down when operating at a constant voltage: https://www.philohome.com/motors/motorcomp.htm This is similar to the series-wound DC motor characteristic of real locos.
  18. Looks great running! I can't tell from the second video if the trailing set of drivers rotate relative to the boiler. If they do, where did you locate the pivot? Dave
  19. Really looks great! Nicely done. Do you print your own valve gear and rods? Dave
  20. Outstanding, been following your progress on Flickr. Particularly love the timber bridge.
  21. Looks like a great show layout. Will you have it at Brickworld Chicago this year?
  22. Great work! Love all the gears.
  23. Well done! Love all the colors, especially the dark blue and dark green. Dave
  24. Fantastic work! I, too, would love to see a video of it in action.
  25. I've bought injection molded R40 and straight ballast plates from an AliExpress seller and am very pleased with the fit and finish. Here's a link: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804522620044.html?spm=a2g0o.order_detail.order_detail_item.3.35a1f19cmSQDAr&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa The straight ballast plates are about $0.61 each if you buy 100, They fit both Lego and clone track I've bought. I've been printing my own R56, R72, and R88 ballast plates to fit Bricktracks, BlueBrixx, and TrixBrix molded tracks and TrixBrix R72 switches with good success too, after several iterations to get the fit where I like it. Dave
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