bogieman

This video shows a fairly heavy 8 wide train on my layout and it does show the loco separating from the train on level track at 2:33' for some unknown reason but then shows ascending the 4% grade with no problem at around 3:50' into it. I have found that sometimes the Studly magnets will not "flip over" as they need to in order that the poles align properly; sometimes they flip halfway and connect edge to edge which does have much attractive force. The Kadee's would bypass when climbing the grade where it makes the 90 deg turn due to the rather abrupt vertical transition which I don't have the motivation to modify. I can't use turntables but have to build pitch freedom into the bogies on my locos to deal with it as well, especially steam locos. You can also see the mess my grandkids have made around the layout - have to let them play - the modular buildings are off limits though.

This decoder will work with any DCC controller, if there is track power, and can be programmed with a full set of CV codes but it also works from the remote with more limited programmability. I think the batteries will last about 2 hours on a full charge running continuously, they charge in about 2 hours. I never run continuously that long, I don't do shows, just my home layout, so that is plenty of capacity for me. I have several sets of batteries so not a problem. I did the first one primarily to get the sound effects and liked it so much I have done every new project with this. IMHO, it is really a cheap solution, much better than Lego Powered UP where I started, but it takes custom wiring to implement. Here's a link to the instructions for the diesel and steam versions if you're interested: https://www.modelrectifier.com/v/vspfiles/resources/dcc/021700 Loco Genie-Diesel.pdf https://www.modelrectifier.com/v/vspfiles/resources/dcc/021500 Loco Genie-Steam.pdf

I've chosen to go with a wireless DCC solution, first offered by MRC as the Loco Genie and now sold by an individual in New Jersey, USA under the brand XL Systems: http://xlsystemsdcc.com/product/xl-wireless-diesel-sound-module/ Although it is described as a sound decoder, it has full sound, lighting, and motor control including light effects such as Gyralight and Mars light. Two limitations are the rating for motor current of 1.5 amps and the remote can only control one locomotive, so each loco has it's own remote. The linked one is for diesel sounds, he also has a steam sounds version. For my steam locomotives, I've found an PF L-motor in the loco and two PF train motors in the tender stay within the current limit and provide plenty of tractive effort for the trains I run on my layout which has 4% grades. For diesels, I use either 2 train motors or two L-motors. I power the trains with 3x 18650 Li-ion batteries which produce 11.1 nominal volts but have a switcher with 2x 18350 batteries which works fine, just not as fast. My Flickr albums show many of my locos with some videos: https://www.flickr.com/photos/167589084@N07/albums/with/72157714385899323 I've also put a number of videos on YouTube such as:

I've standardized on the Studly magnetic couplers and can report that they work much better than the current sealed Lego magnets or the earlier Lego magnets on which they are based. I run heavy 8 wide cars and locos and have a 4% grade on my layout and rarely have these magnets pull apart. I've tried the Brick Model Railroad Kadee knuckle couplers, and while I love the look and holding power, they didn't work on my layout due to transitions from flat to grade where they would bypass vertically and uncouple. Dave

You did an amazing job, I've been following you progress on Flickr and it's great to see you releasing your plans. At EMD in our Engineering Loco Shed, we had a 5 foot by 6 foot black & white photo of this train and it's always been one of my favorites. Your design of the bogies, I agree, is terrific. Dave

Love it! Well done.

I completely agree. Well done!

I've had some recent positive experience with adding weight in a couple of different ways to some steam locomotives. On my Daylight 4-8-4, I used some tungsten putty to weight the pilot truck which was having a hard time dealing with the combined curves and grades on my layout. On a recent build of a 4-6-6-4 using an L motor in the locomotive and two train motors in the tender, I was having traction troubles on the lead truck of the tender (the batteries are in the rear) so I added some lead bars cut from sticks of plumbers lead my wife's grandfather gave me 50 years ago. Both have been successful.

Wonderful work. Will you be selling plans for this or your other industrial plants?

Looks really good. When you do go to light it up you could consider putting a magnetic reed switch and battery on the bottom of the caboose with a simple holding circuit using a transistor and capacitor to drive LEDs. With a magnet between the rails, it's triggered the first time it passes over the magnet and stays on as long as you want based on the capacitor value. I did this for the light on the end of an observation car and it works great.

Neat, I like it! The real things are always impressive to me.

Thanks Ivan! During my 47 years at EMD engineering I climbed on a lot of these and others. Fortunately, we have a house with a full basement that I have taken over, with my wife's blessing, for the Legos and my machine shop. Dave

Nicely done! Is that a steam tractor on the road?

Thanks! On the MP15AC, I had a more limited space for the batteries so used 2 smaller 18350 batteries. The Loco Genie seems to operate fine on that loco with Lego train motors but here I need the higher voltage of 3 batteries to get a reasonable speed with the L motors, even with them geared up. The 18650 batteries fit fine under the engine hood so I used them for the greater capacify. Here's some pictures of the internals showing the motors front and rear: This is the Loco Genie system including a 25mm speaker. It's designed to plug into a standard DCC socket but it's easy enough to cut the plug off and wire it into a Lego model although I sacrificed a PF extension cable so I didn't have to modify the motor plugs. It's programmed via the remote. With the remote included, it's still cheaper than just a PU hub. I've got 4 diesels and 2 steam locos so far using this system.

Thanks all for the positive comments! Dave

I really like your MOC, well done!

I've recently been making MOC's of several Southern Pacific EMD diesel locomotives, this one is of an SD40T-2 six-axle model built from 1974-1980, a total of 312 built for the SP and a subsidiary (239) and the Rio Grande (73). These differ from a standard SD40-2 in that the cooling system is modified to have the air intake at walkway level and fans below the radiators which improves engine cooling in tunnels where there is significant temperature stratification in the tunnel air. As an engineering co-op student at EMD in 1970, I was tasked to analyze and plot the date from a tunnel test in the Cascade mountains where the SP was having operational difficulty due to locos derating as they overheated in the many tunnels and snow sheds. Here's a picture of a rather dirty one: The model is reasonably true to scale although the trucks are a bit long making the fuel tank a bit short. Later in life, the units were repainted and given a newer "speed lettering" logo. Decals were provided by Andy at OK Brickworks. The exhaust stack between the dynamic brake fans and inertial filter hatch activates the power switch and is more recessed when in operation. A few parts were not available in Dark Bluish Gray so were painted with automotive interior vinyl spray paint - specifically, the vertical dampers at the truck middle axles and the gear racks used to make the dynamic brake grilles. The 3-18650 Li-ion batteries drive an MRC Loco Genie wireless DCC receiver/controller that powers the two L-motors, one driving each truck, and the lights and sound effects. The trucks have two powered axles. I left the wheels off the middle axle wheels to negotiate R40 curves, they can't really be seen anyway. In the interest of full disclosure, I did have to modify the 3x3 curved plates making up the end transom curve to clear the wheels. The trucks are simple but I think capture the HT-C design with the exception of the distinctive core holes. Later in their life, the units got ditch lights added. The lights I used came from Amazon and are pre-wired surface-mount 0805 LEDs. The wires are like thread and so fit between bricks with no drilling required. Although not prototypical, I set the ditch lights to alternately flash as the Loco Genie supports it and I like the look. Note the SP GP60 in the background. Here's video of the loco in action: Dave

Great additions to a neat model.

Nice job all around. I really like the OCTAN sign too.

I will third that Davide, well said. Dave

I posted details on my ultrasonic mist "steam" generator several weeks ago here: After a lot of trial and error, it seems reliable. I made it 4x5 studs because it fit my application but being 3D printed, it could be made 3 wide without difficulty, it depends on how much water (run time) you want and what space it has to fit. The ultrasonic disc I used is about 19mm in diameter.

Really like your concept. As a gearhead turned AFOL, you need to go big with the engine, I'd pick an EMD 20-710 and stretch the underframe, "no replacement for displacement" as they say. Also, bigger wheels in the back would add to the look.

Very nice work, love the cab interior.

I also got a couple of pairs and couldn't be happier. It's great to see a long locomotive go through these switches in a much more graceful manner than the Lego switches. The option to position the throw mechanism on either side is great.

@SteamSewnEmpire I like it, I think your last one looks about as good as can be done.