Jump to content

JLiu15

Eurobricks Knights
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    719

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by JLiu15

  1. JLiu15
    Okay, guess this might be quite a common issue then. When I logged in successfully on iPad my older control profiles were gone, but most of my old control profiles get deleted anyway so nbd ig.
  2. JLiu15
    In my experience the servo motor's center position can be off by a negligible amount. When I use it in a creation I can usually see the output rotating slightly when turning on the battery box (I'm guessing it's to calibrate center position). However, if the dots are too far apart at center position then it's probably an issue with the motor.
  3. JLiu15
    Update: I was able to log into the app on an iPad just fine. I guess I'll use the iPad to control the MOC then. However, I'd still like to be able to use my phone to control my MOCs...
  4. JLiu15
    Hey guys, so I made a custom SBrick profile for an upcoming MOC and I need to log into the SBrick app to use it. I haven't really used the app for about a year now, and since then I had switched to a new device (iPhone X from iPhone 7). Today I tried logging into the app, but when I put in my email and password a popup says "login failed". I then changed my password and was able to log in with it in the browser, but in the app it still says "login failed". When I hit "connect with Facebook" a popup tries to come up but disappears almost immediately. I also tried creating a new account with a different email, but even that says "registration failed". At this point I feel like it may be a problem with the app rather than my account, as I figure it would at least let me register. I emailed SBrick at info@sbrick.com about the issue but not sure if I'll get a response from them. I wasn't able to find much help online regarding this either. Any help is appreciated
  5. JLiu15
    UPDATE 6/29/20 The MOC is completed! Thank you @Thirdwigg and @Mechbuilds for supporting me throughout the building process. I spent the entire day yesterday working on the cab. I just need to get some custom stickers made for the rear, and then the MOC is ready. Photos and videos should be published later this week, as well as the MOC topic.
  6. JLiu15
    UPDATE 6/27/20 The entire body is complete now. I just gotta build the cab and add some custom stickers for the rear, and the model's finished. I know some of you guys might not be a fan of the gaps in the rear part of the body, but I did this on purpose so that it doesn't look like a whole slab of beams or something. The gap in the rear body panel also allows some room for the servo motor's wire, as there is not much space between the motor and the rear body panel. The rear lights were also a little too far in - I wanted to use a single panel to model the area above the rear fenders rather than with a bunch of beams, and while this isn't ideal, the rear still turned out pretty close to the real thing. Despite some of its shortcomings, I am overall pretty satisfied with the bodywork. I anticipate finishing this MOC by early next week! Photos:
  7. JLiu15
    Thanks! I think I’ve seen that before :)
  8. JLiu15
    I’d say the 42108 is a good starter set - it’s got plenty of functions and not too expensive. When I started out building LEGO Technic in 2013 my first few decently sized sets were 9394, 42006, and 9398, giving me plenty of options for building and motorizations. The Mindstorms EV3 set came out that fall and I got it too, but honestly I was able to get much more out of those Technic sets I got than the ~600 pieces in the EV3 set. That might give you an idea on whether it’s worth it to wait for the new Mindstorms set or not.
  9. JLiu15
    Nice! The body built with hoses sorta gives it a classic look, like sets from the late 90s/early 00s.
  10. JLiu15
    Thanks! And no I'm not; I'm mostly just following this brochure: https://www.kalmarusa.com/4ae438/globalassets/equipment/forklift-trucks/kalmar-forklifts-1852-ton-capacity/kalmar-dcg180-330-forklift-brochure-en-us.pdf
  11. JLiu15
    UPDATE 6/25/20 More progress on the bodywork. The model is about 80% complete by now, just missing the rear section and the cab. It's starting to come together now. There are some parts I feel like could've turned out better. For instance, the "hump" in the middle of the body right behind the cab - the real-life counterpart has it sloped and rather curvy. However, I did not want to put beams at an angle to model the curve (as there would be a bunch of hard edges/breaks in the surface) and I did not want to suddenly transition to System pieces either. The finished version is flat for the most part and slopes towards the end. I'm guessing this piece would've been the solution to that, but unfortunately it is currently not available in red. The rear body panel is pretty simple - it is modeled using 7x3 curved panels and beams as well as some System pieces. I also made sure to include the towing pin that is found on the real-life counterpart. Unfortunately it can't be used to actually tow anything, as it forms one of the attachment points for the rear body panel. I also plan to use custom stickers in the rear for the warning stripes and the Kalmar logo. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  12. JLiu15
    Okay, got it. I saw that @ScT mentioned it earlier too. I'll probably go with the Steelseries then - it looks like it's $50 on Amazon which is cheaper than a PS4 gamepad.
  13. JLiu15
    Thank you guys for your suggestions! I use an iOS device. You mentioned Steelseries Nimbus for iOS so I'll take a look at that. Have you tried the ipega with an iOS device? It's the cheaper of the two so if it works with iOS then I'll go with that. AFAIK it just has to be an Android-enabled gamepad, correct?
  14. JLiu15
    Hey guys, so I'm trying to find a relatively cheap gamepad that works with the BrickController 2 app. I'm planning on making some MOCs with Control+ in the coming months but AFAIK proper servo control is only really possible with BrickController 2 at the moment (correct me if I'm wrong, though). I can also see this being advantageous for SBrick as I'd have a physical remote control. The problem is, I don't think I have a gamepad that works with the app (I have an Xbox controller; I tried that with the app and nothing shows up - I'm guessing Xbox controllers aren't compatible considering I've never seen anyone use it to control their MOCs). For those of you who have used BrickController 2, what gamepad do you use? I've seen quite a few MOCers use a PS4 gamepad, but the price is a bit high imo (~$60). I'm not really into gaming either, so to spend $60 on a gamepad just to control my MOCs doesn't really seem worth it to me. I use an iOS device (iPhone X), btw. Thank you guys!
  15. JLiu15
    The wheels can steer pretty far - about 45 degrees each way. That might not be as much as the real thing can, but the turning radius is still impressive nonetheless. Note that the chassis in the rear is only 3 studs wide to allow the rear axle to have a large steering lock. As for using chains - I think that might be difficult without a major redesign of the mast. The cable easily attaches to the fork and mast, and keeps moving parts to a minimum. Using a chain would mean gears at the top instead of rollers and attaching the chain to the fork could prove difficult.
  16. JLiu15
    UPDATE 6/23/20 Some progress on the bodywork. The front section is largely finished, with the sides and front fenders in place. As simple as the fenders may seem, it was actually quite a challenge figuring them out. The mudguards in front of the front wheels on the real-life counterpart are curved to fit nicely around the wheel - I was initially going to use black #3 connectors, but it appeared bulky and out of proportion. I resorted to using this piece to model the mudguards - there's no curvature to them, but their thickness (or lack thereof) made it work imo. There are also working headlights on the front fenders. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  17. JLiu15
    Thanks! I’ve used VEX robotics before as well; I used it in a high school engineering class.
  18. JLiu15
    UPDATE: I successfully disassembled the assembly in question. I ended up using pliers with paper wrapped around the 4L axle to prevent damage. It worked flawlessly, and everything came apart with minimal damage.
  19. JLiu15
    Thanks! Glad you like it
  20. JLiu15
    I’ll keep this in mind only if it seriously impacts the look of the model at the end - at this point moving the boom one stud closer would likely mean rebuilding the front part of the chassis (essentially everything in front of the fake engine) from scratch. I had originally considered moving it back one stud further, but specifically didn’t due to all the changes I’d have to make. Once again I’ll still keep this in mind moving forward - if the mast looks out of place even with more bodywork attached then I’ll probably rebuild it, but otherwise I’ll leave it the way it is. I get that MOCing is about making the best you can do, but at the same time I don’t want to stress too much over these modifications that ultimately won’t change much. At the end of the day I build MOCs to have fun, and sometimes that means choosing the solution that balances effectiveness and simplicity.
  21. JLiu15
    There's still gonna be mudguards in front of the front wheels, and tbh the current proportions are perfect for incorporating the mudguards without interfering with the wheels or the fork. Also I'm kinda getting tired of rebuilding things now lol, like I've already rebuilt things twice and unless it's critical to the looks/functionality then idk if it's worth the hassle to completely rework things just for a slight change. I had considered moving the fork back 3 studs instead of 2 before I rebuilt it, but I realized at that point the entire front end of the chassis would need to be rebuilt and the valve switching mechanism would have to be placed elsewhere. I guess the kissing forks mechanism could be made skinner, but that would probably sacrifice its structural integrity. I'll still be paying attention to how the model looks as a whole while continuing with the build ofc, and if something just doesn't look right I'll most likely rebuild it.
  22. JLiu15
    You could use this piece and put 3 12T bevel gears in there, the ones on the sides connected to 16T gears going to the 16T gears w/clutch that'll be engaged by the driving ring. The axle with the driving ring and the middle 12T bevel gear will be the input/output, and you could easily motorize the shifting. Totally worth it imo
  23. JLiu15
    Lmao what a coincidence it is that my last MOC happens to be a crane and my current WIP happens to be a forklift
  24. JLiu15
    42106 too Ironic that this is also the first year where pullback sets had B models haha
  25. JLiu15
    UPDATE 6/20/20 I spent yesterday working on moving the fork/mast back a little - it is now 2 studs closer to the front axle. The mast had some modifications too, as in the previous design it would collide with the pneumatic valve with it moved back. I also replaced the M motor controlling the lifting function with a L motor - it has to be mounted with the side pin holes perpendicular to the mast as the bulge in the motor would prevent the fork from lifting up, which was a challenge but in the end the attachment to the motor and the pneumatic cylinders worked out pretty well. Note that I also turned the 8878 battery around - the battery will sit partially or fully below the cab in the finished model, which can be tilted to the left. With the plugs on the left, they will be relatively out of sight with the opened cab and it also makes the charging port more accessible with the tilted cab. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
×
×
  • Create New...