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JLiu15

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by JLiu15

  1. While looking up reference images during the building process I found a picture of one in an accident, and its body was literally disintegrated. Doesn't look safe at all. Thank you! I'm glad you like it. Admittedly modern cars are harder to model than classics due to their curves. Classics usually have plenty of right angles, although the boxiness of the body here did become annoying pretty quick. The majority of the building process for the body felt like building a box on wheels, until I got to the very end when I put the final touches (e.g. front grille) on.
  2. Yeah I had the same feeling about the real thing, I felt that it was super ugly and unsafe. I decided to build a model of one primarily because a friend of mine really likes Winnebagos, specifically the 1972 Brave. In fact, a lot of its Technical features (such as the V8 engine) were done accurately thanks to product brochures she sent me.
  3. Functions/features: Steering (controlled via the steering wheel) Full live axle suspension 4-speed transmission (controlled via a shift lever by the driver's seat) V8 engine Opening side door Removable interior elements (dining table, benches, bed, range and sink) Removable body Video: Photos:
  4. Thank you! Yup, I've got many more MOCs to come
  5. Thanks! I'm looking forward to finishing this one.
  6. UPDATE 8/23/19 The arm is now fully finished and installed, with all pneumatic connections set. However, there were a number of shortcomings in this section. I wanted to make use of the pneumatics from the 8436 set I got from the BrickFair yard sale, so I used one on the jib and another on the bucket. But since the actuators on the real EC350E are much longer (and thinner), they ended up being very much out of proportion with the real machine. I did not feel like making more Bricklink orders after making so many of them for my Winnebago project, and since I got some pneumatics from BrickFair I wanted to make use of them, so I compromised and kept them. They might not be the most fitting, but they do the job. One serious issue I noticed with the pneumatic system after attaching the arm to the superstructure is that the tiny 6L pump had almost no capacity to raise the arm at a reasonable speed. It raises it, but it does it so slowly you could barely see it moving. I was not expecting this, as I noticed similar setups with 2 11L cylinders (such as the 42080) work just fine. I added a manual pump (yes, I got it from the 8436) to it to work in conjunction with the motorized compressor, to be used when there is a shortage of pressure as it has much greater capacity. I've had 2 6L pumps at one point (one from the 42008, another from the 42043), but I think I may have lost the one from the 42008. I have used two of them in a MOC before, but I didn't notice much improvement in speed. My primary guess for the root of this issue is too much weight on the cylinders. The boom isn't super heavy, but it isn't light either. It might also be because they are attached at a bad angle, requiring them to work harder than if they had been attached at a more efficient angle (the angle I attached them at seem pretty close to the real machine). Another possible cause is the valves being in the back, as there's a lot of hoses routed through the superstructure just to connect the valves to the arm. That was the easiest place to put them though, as the front of the superstructure has mechanisms for rotating the turntable/transferring drive through it taking up a lot of space. Using the manual pump allow the pneumatics to perform at their full potential, but also means the playability of this model will be significantly hindered. It also allows me to control the pneumatics without turning the battery on, as the valves can be switched easily by hand when the gearbox is in drive mode. I placed the manual pump as low as I can as to not expose too much of it, but still it is a bit of an eyesore having it there. I'm not planning on getting more 6L pumps from Bricklink as I mentioned earlier, but if any of you know see any issues with the arm design (such as the angle of the cylinders) that could be a significant contributor to the issue, please let me know. Photos:
  7. It looks like a very deep orange, almost red. I might use red instead of orange, as I don’t have that many orange connectors. Pneumatic functions are boom, jib, and bucket. An update on that should come by the end of the week, if everything goes well. I’m not waiting until October to finish the MOC lol But I think they’d look pretty good too
  8. Thanks! I chose to do a Volvo because it has a black boom, rather than a boring all-yellow color scheme. In terms of scale, I’m just using the regular sprockets from sets such as 42006 and 8043. The large ones from the 42095 are only available in yellow right now, which does not fit the color scheme for this model. As for the year, this model is not specific to any year. I don’t think the EC350E has any orange details, at least from what I’ve seen.
  9. Hey guys, here's a new project I started recently. It is a model of the Volvo EC350E excavator, featuring pneumatics and SBrick control. As of right now I have the superstructure completed. All electronics for the model are contained within here. At the center of the superstructure is a 8043-style gearbox that switches the 3 L motors between left track, right track, and superstructure rotation, respectively, and boom valve, jib valve, and bucket valve, respectively. A M motor powers the gearbox shifting and the pneumatic pump simultaneously. This is possible thanks to a clutch gear on the gearbox shifting mechanism, allowing the motor to drive the pump even when shifting is complete. This will be my last MOC before I go off to college. I move in next Thursday, so I'll try to get at least most of it done before I leave. I won't be building as much anymore with college starting - maybe a MOC or two over breaks. However, if I don't get this MOC done before I leave I'll try to finish it in small increments in the weekends I come home. Photos:
  10. UPDATE 7/31/19 I spent the past few weeks primarily working on the body. I have a virtual design of it made on Bricklink Studio, and I am currently waiting for some Bricklink orders to arrive. Fortunately, both are expected to arrive before I leave for BrickFair on Friday. The red "frame" for attaching the body is removable. I will later add an attachment for the roof on there. There are 12 attachment points for the body as of right now - eight for guiding the body and four for securing it. Attachment points not on the frame are not removable. I reworked the back of the chassis a bit, as it had a tendency to bend and cause the body to sag when placed on it. Also note that I removed the step well attachment - I will make that a part of the body instead. I am leaving for BrickFair in two days, so right now I am just cramming to get the MOC finished lol. It looks like I won't have time to get it filmed before I leave, so that will have to happen after I come back. I will be posting pictures of it at BrickFair on my Flickr though. Photos:
  11. Thanks! Thank you! I’m currently making digital designs of the bodywork on Bricklink Studio. I’m also ordering parts in dark blue from BL as I will be making that the secondary color of the body.
  12. The stickers, especially the “W”, would have to be precisely printed to scale - the width of which being the height of a standard Technic beam. The color would have to be precise to. This means I’d have to get them custom made for me.
  13. Do you guys have any suggestions on printing custom stickers? I have to model the “W” pattern and the “BRAVE” logo using custom stickers. If any of you have experience with printing custom stickers, please let me know.
  14. Lmao I realized that. Problem is I’m gonna have to build an entire structure around it that spans the entire height of the vehicle. For a MOC that’s focused on mechanics, I didn’t feel like going that far. Also why there’s no wardrobe either lol. That’s cool haha. Thanks!
  15. Thank you! No, it won't be RC. I wanted it to go in line with the latest Technic cars (such as the upcoming Land Rover) and they all have similar functions - steering, suspension, transmission - all manual. I might show the underside in the video when it's finished. The live axles are similar in design to those on the 42043. Thanks!
  16. UPDATE 7/7/19 Hey guys, I've finished the floorplan of the Winnebago. The floorplan includes a dining table, two benches, a bed, a range and sink, and a step well. All 5 attachments are removable and are able to stand upright when removed. Honestly, this past week I felt like I built several small MOCs lol. Note the four 45 degree double bent beams attached to the chassis - they will be used to attach a "cage" for the body that keeps it firmly bound to the chassis when attached. The "cage" will also be removable. I plan on submitting this MOC to Lego Ideas when finished. It will be my first submission there. Photos:
  17. Thanks! As for gearing up the fake engine, I don’t need to do that as 4 different speeds are available through the transmission.
  18. Great MOC! Looks really playable as it’s so fast. The interchangeable cranes in the back is a nice addition. I would have preferred a linear actuator or worm gear mechanism for the steering though. Such a mechanism provides a much more precise control - especially for such a fast vehicle where you don’t want to accidentally oversteer.
  19. I think it just needs bracing - it sounds like gears skipping. The M-motor connection doesn't look very secure. Another piece of advice is - I don't recommend using just connectors on an axle in situations where gear trains are involved - especially high-torque applications like drive. You could probably put a 5L beam in there going from immediately below the M motor to the 20T gear driving the differential. Anyways, I like the design and the wide independent suspension looks really cool. I also like your choice of "wheels" - looks very fitting for a Mars exploration vehicle. I was thinking of this wheel, but I guess they're too narrow and a bit bumpy.
  20. UPDATE 6/26/19 Hey guys, I've finished the chassis of the Winnebago. I've decided to go with the D20 as I found out the chassis was longer than I thought. I shortened the chassis from the previous update a bit (note the knob wheels now being used to shift the transmission instead of the bevel gears). I also removed the HoG steering, which I didn't want to, and have steering only be controlled by the steering wheel (like in the 42056, 42083, and Mustang sets). This was because the steering mechanism had way too much play in it due to all the axles and gears transferring motion from the back of the model (where the steering knob was supposed to be) to the front. The axles and gears were an eyesore as well, so by eliminating the HoG steering it really cleaned up the surface of the chassis. It will be difficult to steer, of course, but I plan on incorporating a removable body/floorplan so the steering wheel should be easily accessible with the body removed. A challenge in building the rear 1/3 of the chassis was that the live axle required a "bridge" in the chassis. As a result, that area had a tendency to bend, especially with the shock absorbers exerting force in that area when the suspension is compressed. To reinforce it, I added a second layer of beams and some diagonal ones as well. The area immediately above the shock absorbers has even more reinforcement. The reinforcements virtually eliminated the bending tendency. If you guys have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  21. Oh nice, I’m curious to see how they look with the existing tires for that rim! Probably gonna use them with this tire if I were to get them.
  22. Yessss :D Will update when full chassis is complete!
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