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JLiu15

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by JLiu15

  1. JLiu15
    Yes - I remember you mentioning it in the WIP topic. The front suspension was decently soft, but I agree the rear suspension could've been a little softer. Thanks! I love dark azure
  2. JLiu15
    A simple and fast buggy controlled by BuWizz, driven by 2 RC motors. Features drive, steering, double wishbone front suspension and independently suspended rear wheels. Functions/features: Drive (2x RC motors: inner outputs geared 3:1) Steering (PF Servo motor) Full Suspension (front: double wishbone; rear: independently suspended wheels) Instructions available on Rebrickable: https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-59617/JLiu15/azure-racer-xl/#details Photos: Video:
  3. JLiu15
    Yeah, unfortunately it looks like the only way to connect pieces at complex angles is trial and error. However, I was able to build my MOC in there just fine. Good to know - I'll probably try it out sometime and see how it works for me.
  4. JLiu15
    Hey guys, I'm a beginner to digital building, and I'm trying to make one of my recent MOCs in stud.io and make instructions for it. However, I'm not sure how to model a structure that has plenty of connections at non-right angles. I know you can rotate a piece or a structure 90 degrees using the arrow keys or rotate it about an axis for a given number of degrees, but solving for the exact angle those connections are at would take A LOT of complex trigonometry. Even then, the angles won't be 100% precise. I've taken a look at some tutorials and played around with the controls, but I haven't figured out how to connect pieces at the angle they'd sit at when connected in real life. So far I've used the "connect" feature to precisely put pins, etc into the right pin holes, but that didn't seem to work for connecting pieces at their "natural" angle. I did some trial and error by putting in values that seem to make things connect, but of course that's nowhere as accurate as their real-life angles. For context, this is a suspension setup I'm working on. The suspension is a simple sprung one like 42075's rear suspension, but the left and right wheels are suspended independently. This means there are 3 unknown angles - the point at which the shock absorber connects to the chassis, where the shock absorber connects to the suspended section, and where the suspended section is connected to the chassis. If necessary, I can also provide a screenshot of my work so far. I've always been intimidated by digital building, so I've never really made any efforts to learn it. But this time I'm finally making it a goal to build an entire MOC digitally and make instructions for it, so any help from stud.io (or other digital building software) experts will be greatly appreciated.
  5. JLiu15
    Yes - that's why I decided to use them for this MOC. For such a fast MOC you gotta make sure everything is sturdy and that there's no weak points. I think you're spot on with this - we learned about this in my physics class last year (I'm currently a second year engineering student) and using physics terminology explains it really well.
  6. JLiu15
    @Erik Leppen that makes sense - looks like just another example of trading force for distance (e.g. levers, pulleys, gear ratios, etc.) @Bluehose the front hubs are these and the rear hubs are these; most sets released between 2013-2015 should include a pair of both (e.g. 42000, 42029, 42037, 42039). However, I've replaced the rear ones with portal hubs in my most recent update.
  7. JLiu15
    UPDATE 11/27/20 I've reworked the chassis a little bit. The RC motors in the previous design were incapable of moving the model as they had so little torque. I've redesigned it to be driven via the inner outputs through a 3:1 reduction in portal hubs. The motors now have a much better speed/torque balance - it has enough torque to move it without struggling in my tests with a PF AA battery box (so it should improve when I use BuWizz in fast or ludicrous) but not geared down so much that its speed is essentially that of an L motor. The front suspension has also been modified. The suspension arms have been reduced to 6L as I really didn't like my solution for 7L tie rods. The suspension travel is comparable to before, but I did notice that the shock absorbers don't compress all the way. Honestly I'm okay with that given how much travel it has. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  8. JLiu15
    UPDATE 11/26/20 (2) As @amorti noted, the original front suspension design would suffer from bump steer due to the steering link being shorter than the suspension arms. I've reworked the front suspension to make the steering linkages the same length as the suspension arms (7L) by combining two of part 15459. I tried combining it with part 57515 by placing it in its bifurcated part, but that resulted in at least an 8 stud steering linkage. I'm wondering if this will be a better solution that eliminates bump steer - I think I've seen a MOC before using this solution, but I don't remember. Photo:
  9. JLiu15
    Thanks! Yeah the Technic bricks topped with tiles worked out pretty well. Yes haha - I had to do a lot of trial and error with the bucket's linkage.
  10. JLiu15
    So the steering links should ideally be the same length as the suspension arms? I haven't noticed any issues with bump steer - is this when the suspension goes up that the wheels turn themselves? I'm guessing it's probably negligible in this situation. Also the suspension seems soft enough as it is. It's not too stiff, but also not so soft that the model will start to sag.
  11. JLiu15
    I think those might be too big. Also not very buggy-like. I am planning to make a similar MOC using those wheels soon though.
  12. JLiu15
    Yup, in fact there is a LEGO set (well, a B-model of one) version of such a vehicle - the 8043 B-model. Thanks! I finally got a backdrop. Now I can take photos on a white background
  13. JLiu15
    UPDATE 11/26/20 I got some more work done on it last night after posting this topic, and now the chassis is essentially complete. I've changed the front suspension to use double shocks per wheel and the rear to use 6.5L hard shocks. Contrary to what I originally believed, the front and rear suspensions proved to be roughly equally hard and offer similar travel. The front suspension was VERY soft with just one shock per wheel. I think this is a model I can finish in a matter of days, and get maximum fun out of driving it. Right now it's super lightweight, and I don't anticipate the bodywork and BuWizz (which should arrive tomorrow) to add too much weight. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photos:
  14. JLiu15
    Yup! I sure bet it will ?
  15. JLiu15
    Some of you may remember my Azure Racer from a few years ago. It was a small simple buggy that was meant to be a leisurely build after my BrickFair VA projects of that summer. It had only one L motor for drive, but had decent speed. This model will be a sequel to that - it'll be larger (with Unimog tires), dark azure instead of medium azure, and powered by BuWizz and driven by 2 RC motors. In fact, this will be my first MOC to use BuWizz and RC motors - something I wanted to get for years and finally obtained two of them. The front axle will be a double wishbone independent suspension using shocks from the 9398 set. I haven't used them in years, and it's nice to bring them back again. The rear suspension will also be independent, but it'll be the RC motors themselves that are part of the suspension. Each motor will be connected to one wheel that'll be mounted on its own pivot point and shock absorber, essentially creating an independent suspension. I'm really looking forward to building this model. With the BuWizz on ludicrous or fast powering 2 RC motors driving a relatively lightweight model, I anticipate getting A LOT of speed out of this thing. Photo:
  16. JLiu15
    Thanks! And I see - I guess I could've used more Technic bricks topped with tiles in lieu of liftarms on the arm.
  17. JLiu15
    Thanks! I had to rework the bucket linkage a couple times - the range was poor and unrealistic at first (you can see in my WIP topic) but I managed to get a much more realistic range. Overall I'm pretty happy with it. Yes, I too prefer a little more color sometimes - otherwise it looks bland and monotonous to me. And yes, the bucket is from the 42030 and 42081 sets (I got it off Bricklink).
  18. JLiu15
    A simple tracked loader model with Control+. Features subtractor drive, arm elevation, bucket tilt, and lighting by Brickstuff. Functions/features: Subtractor drive Arm elevation Bucket tilt Lights (Brickstuff LEDs) Photos: Video:
  19. JLiu15
    Nice, looks like this set is a must-have for me
  20. JLiu15
    Are the electronics from this set cross-compatible with Control+? (i.e. use the Technic hub to control the motors in here or use the system here to control C+ motors). I'm wondering if I should get this as if it's cross-compatible with C+, it would really open up a lot more opportunities for making MOCs.
  21. JLiu15
    Thanks! I'll be working on the bodywork soon, and then it'll be finished
  22. JLiu15
    UPDATE 10/31/20 A little more progress on the model - most notably the arms and bucket are now in place. I did have to modify some parts to make things work, such as replacing the u-joints for the bucket elevation LAs with bevel gears as they are at a pretty steep angle when fully extended. My original plan to use a design like the 42081 also got changed to a more traditional bucket tilt mechanism as there was enough space for such a linkage to fit even with the arms lowered. Another, more major modification is the tracks - there are now 3 sets of bogies per track as the model was having an issue with tilting forward as the bucket was raising. Now the model is much more stable than before. I also redesigned this part to make it look more realistic. At this point the functional stuff with this model are pretty much all done, and I'll be moving onto the bodywork which I plan to make using bright light orange beams/panels from the 42099 set. This seems to be a good MOC to incorporate Brickstuff LEDs on, so I'll see if I can squeeze them in there as I build the bodywork. Their battery box could sit in the rear section while also acting as a counterweight for the bucket, and lights such as those on the cabin could be illuminated. Photo:
  23. JLiu15
    UPDATE 10/29/20 I've made some pretty good progress on this MOC over the last few days. Most notably, the track bogies and rollers and the linear actuators for bucket elevation are in place. I've also made some modifications along the way - for instance, the rear sprockets are now driven through planetary hubs. Previously it drove way too fast and had insufficient torque, and now its speed and torque are much more realistic. Because of this modification, the front sprockets (the idlers) are now also attached to wheel hubs - part 11950. The mechanical connection to the linear actuators for bucket elevation has also been drastically changed. It is elevated two studs up as previously it was too close to the tracks, and the two LAs are no longer connected to their motor using knob gears (or bevel gears of any kind). I anticipate this setup to withstand stress much better, especially when the LAs' clutches engage. Because they are driven with a 12:20 reduction from the motor, the bucket tilt mechanism (which has yet to be built) also got a 12:20 reduction. Overall the model now performs much better, and I anticipate getting its arm built soon. Photos:
  24. JLiu15
    Thanks!
  25. JLiu15
    UPDATE 10/14/20 I've made some progress over the weekend. The chassis is essentially complete now, with all electronics in place. The Control+ hub sits towards the front of the chassis, resulting in a lower center of gravity. The C+ XL motor towards the front will drive the two LAs elevating the bucket, and the C+ L motor towards the back will tilt it. I'm anticipating a bucket tilt mechanism similar to the 42081, as it takes little space. The tracks still need a support structure with the rollers and bogies, and after that the tracks will be ready to go on. It does drive a little fast when I tested it, but since I'm controlling it with the BuWizz app like I did with my Bergmann, it should be fine. If you have any suggestions for me, please let me know. Photo:
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