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McWaffel

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by McWaffel

  1. My full layout, as planned, is about 3x2 meters in size. It's pretty big. There will be about 8 blocks (train signaling blocks) which means about 16 main signals, 4 station signals and 8 switch signals. That's 28 signals in total. They're all computer controlled though an Arduino for which I'm writing a rather large and complicated program in C++. Main signals are bi-directional and blocks need to be reserved by trains to get them to signal green. A reservation can be revoked for a train if another train with higher priority is approaching the block. It's extremely complicated gives me nightmares. I have to admit, that I actually like the cables to be visible next to the track. As long as I can keep them tidy running along the track I'm definitely keeping those there.
  2. For 2017/2018 I really want to see a high speed passenger train that is not made out of giant useless nose-parts. I hate those so much! Or I would like to see a retro passenger thing, like the Santa Fe or something similar. Steam train would also be nice, maybe a Cargo Steam Engine?
  3. Hey Guys! I've been very busy in the last weeks. I went shopping for hardware on Wednesday and I just had to put it together today. I got really inspired. I think I should buy hardware more often :D keeps the motivation up. Anyhow. I've built a first prototypical signal box. And before you say anything, yes I know, I could have run just one ground wire. That's the plan for the whole layout, where I will run a single, long ground wire through the whole layout and will solder any other connections to that ground cable that's running along. Here's some pictures - as always feedback is helpful! Soldering is much easier when the Lego bricks hold the LEDs in place. Using technic bricks to run the wires through the base. I'm really pleased with the result. Because there's three holes, I can use that to separate the wires for easier access at every signal. Red signal on And the green signal of course. I'm not too happy with the color of the green LED... it's too yellowish for my taste. I'm going to replace that one. But I'm extremely pleased with the rest! @Lowa you might wanna give this a look. Although I liked your signals, you may want to sell a small signal box with free-hanging LEDs that people can put into technic bricks like I did. Just and idea for you to think about :)
  4. Please make a video of the decoupling mechanism in action! I would LOVE to see it! Amazing job
  5. You already opened a thread about this topic: I don't think it's the spirit of this forum to register, then open two threads about the same topic...
  6. I have a slight suspicion that trains will be something that we won't see at all beyond 2020. They've been slowly declining for a couple of years now...
  7. I got that from Wikipedia. So I'm guessing he wants to know if SBrick is capable of controlling multiple units on the same train. I personally don't use SBrick but I would think it's possible. It'd be pretty silly if it didn't support Multiple Unit Control.
  8. If I understood correctly, there's two Arduino boards included in this breadboard? If that's the case, this is definitely something I'm going to use in the future! :O
  9. Wow. Do want! Now! :D Very well done! I feel like a lot of MOC trains look like MOC trains and just stand out as such in a Lego World. But yours look just right!
  10. Looks a lot better now. I was actually talking about in between the first and second and third and fourth axle but I like what you did anyway. Good job
  11. I would be interested in a couple of motors! :) I would probably get two for starters
  12. Look good. I think a sticker in the front and some detail on the roof would really bring this to the next level. I would also add something underneath the bogies to make them look beefier.
  13. Something that bothered me with the original 9V crossings is that when the train comes out of a bend the flange sometimes hits the crossing rail in the center. It's not a major problem, as the trains never derail but it makes a clicking noise and the train jumps around. Maybe you can fix this issue if you added little guiding-rails that slope outwards really slowly to make sure the flange clears the crossing rail without jumping or getting jerked to the side so suddenly.
  14. I think the little house would benefit a lot by some sort of ventilation or chimney or some kind of antennas/satellite dishes. Some more detail needed there. I do like the colors better now though
  15. Looks great. There's way too few buildings like this available from Lego. I personally would have made it twice the length but it's still pretty cool :D
  16. Man that's awesome! Is it going to be a terminus or a through station? I think it would be cooler as a terminus.
  17. I just uploaded a new post and updated the site, so @dr_spock can now look at the pictures properly
  18. I would imagine the permanent adhesive is not a good solution either, since the metal tape its self wears of. So after a lot of use, not only can you not replace the permanent tape, but the track is not as conductive and may make track useless entirely. I think what we really need is to hope that metal 3D printing becomes more readily available. //Edit: Also, prices for track need to be somewhat lower than genuine Lego, if you're trying to sell to a broader market than just people who want custom radii. 9V track goes for $3.00 - $3.50 a piece so $2 for reproduce track is what they should aim for. I don't see that happening with the current production processes.
  19. Man those look great! Is there any chance you might reproduce the original cross over switches? I don't have enough space on my planned layout for the length of this particular radius
  20. I mean I get that Lego track is quite limiting, given it only has a set radius and all, but I'd rather go out and buy Lego track and use it in my layout right away than spend money on something and wait two years for them to eventually arrive?
  21. I wonder why with this kind of company policy people even bother to buy the rails. That's quite beyond me ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  22. So what's the difference between them? I don't understand.
  23. I guess so :D But then I would need some mechanical way of decoupling cars. I already have a few ideas how one could do that but that would require a lot of testing and I'm no where close to that part of my project yet. I think to get me started I'll build something usable with at least one full loop, a 12 track pieces long, two tracked train station and I'll go from there. I'm going to use the Givens & Druthers method that @Brickwolf suggested to get everything sorted out, then make a plan and reserve some space for a trainlevator I'm probably going to use a combination of your and @dr_spock's ideas where it's going to become a three storied trainlevator, the bottom being your idea, the top being dr_spock's idea and the middle being access to the lower level tracks. Exciting things! Many ideas going through my head now :D
  24. daaammmn. Good idea. Sounds really complicated I like it. That would require a lot of very precise mechanisms. Like a train/rolling stock dispenser-thing? :D Sounds really interesting. But wouldn't you want your rolling stock constantly displayed? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
  25. I don't think I have enough space to fit an incline for two layers. I'd like all the PF trains to reach all areas of the layout. Thanks for the advice. I will look into it
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