SNIPE

I will try to ASAP The desighn it pretty good because there is little gap-torerence inbetween the parts which makes it robust. this is down to the technic beam runner brick mainly, the gear rack strips are attached down well too as well as the tiny 30 tooth gears As we know , when the 'nuts and bolts' are not done up properly bad things happnen..

It takes me a year aprox to make a MOC I mean I spend about 2 months at the most just on the steering, tires, wheels, suspention, diffs, parts of the chassis, and brakes. Most of the time it is researching parts, part compatibility and functionallity, making something lighter/simpler/stronger/smaller/look better or changing something that is a failiure in design. It is also ordering the parts with my pesky parents! Maybe I should not do that but then whats the point; It will probably be poor in design and therefore, function, or it might not work at all I dont learn as much and it is not as 'different' compared to other pepoles work in that kind of assembly.

ok, sounds good but there is just one issue, how do I attach the disk brakes?

I think this desighn would be too tall for the car , the wheels I am using are the tallest lego make apart from the nasty wheels from the lego 8448 supercar, these are wiser than those ones too. also the suspention box shown in the original post is much smaller and lighter, and can work upside down as well as right side up, it has the small stroke I am looking for too.

Hi, I decided to rebuild my project a little because when i compressed the suspention the steering spingle would not have stayed attached to the wishbones, or got Stuck at a point so instead I decided to use a dual pivot steering assembl so that the flat surface of the tire can stay as fullly contacted to the road as possible, this measn that the top and bottom of the wishbone pivots so that the wheel does not tilt to an angle like if there was only one pivot. The project is basically a car that can quickly and smoovley transpose betweenbeing upside down and right side up, this menas that the wheels and tires are taller than the cars body to accomodate that function. The way the car transposes between that is: A the car is driving forward on a surface to drive the car forwards. B the car goes up a sideways slope until it gets to a point where the tires are almost about to let go grip wise C the power of the engines is cut off until D the car is upside down and the tilt switch is engadged E then the engines go in reverce which drives the car forwards otherwise if the engine spin was not reverced the car would be going backwards. The wheels cannot land on their sides (which would be their 'face') because there is nubs on the wheels that prevent that. The problem is that the mounting rings are close together so there is not much space for the univercal joints to move around On the old model the wheel hubs/spindles were not really fixed down just barricaged which meant that they could not only tily but move sideways slightly. These hubs/spindles can only tilt like normal. Here is an image of the new desighn: Here is the LDD file, the rear car assembly and the old front assembly is still in the model as well as the new front assembly. http://www.brickshel...ollcage_car.lxf I also Need something to attach to the steering arms that is either part of the spindle or an additional part with the spindle. where the axles stick out of the rectangular plates is for the rotating axle hole of this part:

Any set with 3000+ parts and super hard difficulty would be ideal for me. helps it the model is BIG too.

Im sure there is three way switches you can hook up by lego or non lego things. or perhaps you can make one A DPDT swich can reverce a DC motor. With a NXT brick you can program pin 1 to do one function , pin2 to do another, etc these pins can be connected to the PLAIN side of a switch, do not connect two paths that have a outputting line together. such as if one is controlling a motor and one is controlling a color sensor. They have to go to a path that has nothing going through it electrically prior to the switch being closed , the only thing that should go through it is the data from that path when the switch is closed. If you want even more fun you can use microswitches inside of a microcontroller in the NXT brick, these things are SMALL. Again you just have to set the instructions right and hook the lego electronic components to the right pins of the port of the NXT brick. the NXT brick needs to use the H bridge aswell in order to reverce the polatiry with functions, the NXT can do lots of things such as flash an LED when it hears a sound that is a certain decibel, or spin a motor and play a preloaded sound but alter the pitch of it (possibly) it can turn an digital inputed light signal into a digital electrical signal with the ADC then play it through the speakers like a CD player basicaly does when you increase the resistance in the motor axis in the NXT brick the amperage raises so if you stop the motor axis the motor will behave like a short, say if the robot was driven into a wall it would cut the motor. these are simple ideas and it can get much complex than this. Three buttons can turn off three functions individually too, a button is a switch. Id like if if lego could make a LCD screen that can easily be mounted to a model and looks good, and id like some LEGO magnetic reed switches

here is the pivot points that alter the steering arms they are suspention pivots, steering pivots, and the hinge pivots on the wheel spindle and pivot ball joins on the steering rack I came up with a univercal joint that only takes up about one hole of space when attached. (around the same width as a technic bush (not the half size one) it uses the middle bit from one of the technic univerca joints and two tawball socket to pin bricks.howevre it would stll be a struggle to attach it to the steering rack. Here is the UV joint but with half a technic 4l UV joint attached to the towball socket brick, there should be a towball socket either side instead of the 4l UV joint.

Hi, I have been trying to make a steering arm that can tilt side to side and up and down, If one of the sides can pivot up and down then it may be ok and does not require an additional hinge for that. it needs to be able to obvioustly steer the wheels too with no or little play in the hinge of the steering arm (for example if you try and turn a axle that has three univercal joints connected it may hinge in several places and 'go funny' if there is not a sufitnant holding mechanism, it is like a ripple down the uv joints note that i moved the steering rack up a little but it can be moves up as much as the chassis around it allows. and ntoe that the blue hinges can be taken off if they are not needed in your ideas. here is the LXF file: http://www.brickshel...ollcage_car.lxf Here is a photo os the car, the parts it will attach to are blue:

The car is driven br two engines, not all of the time as there are several instances where only one engine is going to do better by driving the car at one end. Each engine has two bays, L and R, The engines are in how they work however :P The power generation part of an engine can power the motor of the other engine, as well as power its own motor, they are linked together with the microcontrollers inbetween and are controlled by the adjustment controls in the drivers cabin. Not only can the rotation be reverced , the speed can also be alterred betwen the two bays., if the engine is not in use then that means the car is in either FWD or RWD drive. The trick with this system is the sensor switch can tell the microcontrollers to cut the power of the engines and then put them into the opposite spin after the car has sucessfully flipped over and the car can drive upside down because the wheels are higher than the body of the car. Another trick is, the car will be able to spin round on the spot by having two wheels spinning one way, and the other side two wheels spinning the opposite, while the front wheels are also fully turned in the rotational direction the car will go.to help degcrease the grip of the tires. The controls are on the steering wheel for easy access, most of them can be pressed with the drivers thumb so he can still use the rest of the hand(s) to steer the car, The controlls are wired up to the roller plates outside of the cabin. the only part which isnt is the steering wheel as thus is machanical and mounts to the steering gear which drives the steering rack. The pedals are also not linked to the roller plates, there is a groove where they are mounted to the cockpit , that is all i know so far. Going back to the roller plates, they are conductave and are connected to the wires of that adjuster control. The other side of the plate is a metal shoe which is always contacted to the plate , the shoe slides along the plate when the cockpit is span round. The shoe is fixed as it is outside of the cockpit and the shoe is wired up to the microontroller(s) which will go to the electronic component being adjusted. The most outward conductive plate is plate here is the chart telling you which ring is for what; http://pastebin.com/XF9QfQbT NOTICE: plates 4,5,7,8 are not for general use and should only be used when it is nessecary and where nothing else better is possible. Here is the photos of the progress so far: Note that the dark grey blocks or whatever in the Front and Rear structure are the engines. the front one is slightly smaller.but will both befunctional in the real model, the rear engine will not be used in the real model.but the front one will only it will look slightly different. in some images the engines are 'transparent' color or not there at all. there should be white suspention boxes (part number x928cx1) where the axle ends are (you will find them in the LDD file) Here is the LDD file: http://www.brickshel...ollcage_car.lxf if the link is not working try right clicking on the link above and hitting 'save targest as' or 'save link location' If you renember reading my old thread about the supercar MOC (not the 8448 modification) that project kind of became this one.. The only problem I can see is the steering arms may not have enough space for them to work.

thanks for the help but I need non off road tires for my project. like on the unimog or the 8448 super street sensaion, or the silver champion.

Thanks a lot

I mean if you forced them on, not a 'perfect' fit please note that these are the nimog tires: the silver rim is larger than he black rim in the original post? (height wise)

Hi, What do the unimog tyres act like and look like on these rims: Also, which one of these two rims are taller/wider (same thing since its a circle)? here is the unimog tires:

Hi, I was busy building a linear actuator that had a very sentive stroke as the teeth are very small, I used a tooshed bar from the monirail set and the winding drum that has the axle hole and teeth on the end I used the technic beam sleeve/channel and attached the tooched bar onto a technic beam then put it through thatb channel. However when I get to a certain point in buildig it lego diigital desighner CRASHES due to part incompatibiltiy. The whole model would be quite thin with a stroke of about 11 or 13 holes of the beam

Next Byte Codes (NBC) is a simple language with an assembly language syntax that can be used to program Lego Mindstorms NXT programmable bricks. The command line compiler outputs NXT compatible machine code, and is supported on Windows, Mac OS and Linux It is maintained by John Hansen, a Mindstorms Developer Program member. If he does not want that then you can learn C, or ASM or maybe BASIC , these are very common and are supported by all OS's.

I might be intrested in some of those bricks that are broken if they are indeed lighter than the T beam liftarm because they are 2x 3 studs which is what I need. Of course I would take the spring out of the box because it will only jam and use the rest of the components, this would mean that it would turn just fine but without any resitance from the box. note, it is early yet days at the minute

I wouldd have say it is not possible then. You can install it on several machines because, when you buy the full version of 'crossover', because you will get the licence/product key which you have to type in order to install it.

I like the idea as ir is but for this model it would not be as good as using the spring boxes, this is because there is more parts and more weight and more movement, and it is not as atached to the chassis as well, note that the chassis is holding the things in place by each side, so you have to assemble it by putting the wheel axle spindol and 3l axles wth stud through the wishbones LAST otherwise it wont attach line up to attach. I did think about additionaly using the 2x2 cross hole rubber liftarm from the hockey set but i cant see anywhere to mount it where it would still function. Yes i would be using 4 spring boxes , but i may use another 4 with the springs taken out , this is because it is less bulky and possibly ighter than using the 'T' linkarm (3x3 holes). I have one spring box at the minute but it is a little clicky and I dont like its colour compared to the other availabile colors, the hockey sets are good but there is some bricks in there i find hard to build around so id probably buy them as parts.

Perhaps 'crossover' can run it, there is paid version or a trail version but it is much better than 'wine'

Ok, after building then making simpler with fewer parts i desighned the rear part of my project , where the three pins are (on the right hand side of the image) is where the reurn to centre spring, It has a total of 16 bricks and should be quite strong, maybe if I look on bricklink there may be some more bricks that are not in LDD that can replace a few parts too. As I said prior, the car Im building can drive upside down because the wheels are taller than the body so the suspention needs to have a downwards stroke (in other words the suspention would pull down towards the ground) when the car is one say round but not when it is on the ground (in other words it pulls down but if it is upside down it works just as normal, the car does not pull the springs down because the road is there to stop it and because it is not heavy enough.) Note that the suspention is only single point, this is because if the wheel was flat all of the time the body would hit the ground due to super low ride height for low downforce. The triangular parts are just wishbones and the main brick is part of the chassis. Here is the return to centre spring box:

MOC Builder Sariel has created a chainsaw MOC out of technic and system parts that has a working chain and runner, speed controls and a realsistic design, here it is: (sorry if the video is not embedded i could not get it to work) I wonder how the front gear is kept in position, i cant see the axle for another bead behind it.

Heres some advice, NEVER take apart a x928cx1. But yeah i have the first model of the suspention system done but I am trying to make it simpler by using different bricks. Basically this 90 degree angle box will move the short wishbones but it wont do it the wrong way because it is impossible , IE you cant have it go to -45 degrees out of thin air because the spring keeps it at 0 degrees, If you move the car upside down then it will work at -45 degrees The wheels are taller than the body so it can drive upside down, the mid rear and front diffs are electric (not electronic) , there is no gearbox and the engine/motor is denerally speaking, 'electric' too. this means the car is very light and can do by itself. The hardest part would be the self leveling cockpit so when the car turns upside down it will not go upside down with the car. I was thinking about using magnets but they would have o be strong enough to not disengage with jolts but disengage when the car is literally on its side about to turn over. Maybe weights using some sort of metal part or maybe lifquid may work too. Again, that idea I got to use return to centre boxed was most clever!

DLuders, :D this is perfect! in every way, I thank you! This has a 0 degree stop meaning with one stroke it can only go one way (0 to +45 degrees), so if the car is upside down the stroke is opposite meaning the negative part is then used (0 to -45 degrees)

Ok, are you sure these axles wont get deformed A lot of my red 12L axles are twisted or bant from pull back motors, if you dont put it into the motor far enough there is not enough friction and it will probably slip / and get twisted. Also if you put the axle through the motor enough and use a small brick to gain a mechanical advantage it will again twist the axle, using 4 pull back motors at the same time will also twist the axle. I did see that the flex tubing is good as it returns to its original position however after a certain number of times it is bent it will stay that way, also it does not fully return to its original position and it is awkward to implicate into the idea. I have not had time to test the rubber disks yet My question is: if the body raised slightly when the suspention is compressed, is that just as equivelant as having a hardtail setup (no suspention)?