SNIPE

I would have to buy the parts and my mother does not like the idea of buying things from eurobbricks.com incase somebody scams me or something. it sucks, I know

there is no real life model I have made but it should work because there is only two essential parts, the axle and the clutch barrel that has teeth on it to link them together if engadged. the spacers between the axle holders are part no '42446' The axle hole just goes through these so keep the spacing of the axle holder bricks and the teeth on the barrels in place.

This is all very intresting and claver, because you can use the diff with the gear internal clutches (not the cluch for the clutch pedal) I made an internal clutch system that was able to have either the 6, 7+7th or 6th+7th +8th gear positions disabled., any input could be configured as A reverce gear, you just have to add what gears you want onto the ends of each clutch The only difference is that to slide to another bay of gears you dont put the lever back in the middle, here is a diagrap of it, the blue liens represent the movement of the gear stick: park ('P'). and '??' can be anything you want it you just have to add the right outer setup of gears. the example below is just my imaginary setup. The clutches have teeth on them themselves for if you want to have a transter case or a low range box or a diff lock or more gears for something. the gears would normally attach to the end of each clutch (there is an axle either side of them.) Here is the image: The axles ca be moved aswell either by motors or by a shifter but id use this as an alternitive unless you want lots of levers or a large linkage system. the clutches have housings over each one which have notches on the top, these notches are meshed with the gear leve which moves the clutch if you are not using the axle moving feature.

on the contrary, I would not get either of these, i'd get the williams F1 car because the body panels are more realistic and it has better tires and the car is a better shape, etc

My all time favourite is the one from the lego 8463, it appeared on my old time favourite truck (which I thought was huge) back when I was a child) artwork for the lego product magazine for the 8462 tow truck.. what is yours?

Id say get the silver champion because of the suspention, wheels and body panels and because it has the most amout of parts out of any lego F1 car.and a few technic models.

Hi, To see how 'hard' this is: If somebody can give me a reasonably small model in technic or SYSTEM i will put it in a bag and try and build it. perhaps I should film it as I build it.

yup my setup will look simular to the one in the original post.

if you want you can have a three cylender radial engine that has three banks (9), this would be quite small too. the easier way involves each row of cylenders moving at the same time however unless you somehow manage to mount three crank shafts in there

Hi, Can you provide some images so I can get an idea of how it is assembled. Beware some stuff can be much harder to put back together especially small stuff that may easily break.

liking this lots, looks realistic due to the SNOT building work

the model has to only have one bag in the box however.

I would imagine since the 8 tooth gears mesh with the inner gear of the geat ring it would be hard to fix the axles of the 8 tooth gears because they are offset. Note that a 24 tooth concrate/crown gear can fit inside of the inner gear and if im not mistaken I think a LEGO 24 tooth clutch gear should be able tp aswell which allows for bi rotational movement but only slips when used on one direction, the other one meshes Since the outer gear of the gear 'ring' is bi rirectional you can have 4 'speeds' with one gear ring so one can be for one function of the midel ,and the other one can be for 'such and such' Just have two gear rings beside each other but on counter rotating axles that are still put 'end to end' in this configurationand that is 8 functions. You can put two 8L axles with stops back to back (yes the stops are back to back) and then lock something over the stops so that it is harder to pulll them apart but still allows for counter-rotation which means having the hole for the axle a 'pin' hole not an axle hole.

the thing I did was I put bricks over the edge of a lego baseplate and attached the over edge area onto the walls where needed, and have the walls of the lower floor support the baseplates as like it is the cieling of the lower floor. the downstairs walls of each rool should have flat tiles on the top where the baseplate will lie. or if you want ultra strong you can learn a completley different way of bulding: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59417

at what point does it say in this thread what you quoted?

r3d would not installnon windows XP pro 64 or 86 bit

you might want to check out my two posts named 'odd bricks' and 'more odd bricks' http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59022&st=0&p=1052346&hl=odd%20bricks&fromsearch=1entry1052346 http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=58947&st=0&p=1050651&hl=odd%20bricks&fromsearch=1entry1050651 there is some intresting stuff there.

Perfect!

Ah i just renemrered that the beam is totally wrong, It is meant to be the same amount of holes but there is two studs at one end It is thinner than a standard beam too. You can use the hole belor the two studs or plug the part attached to the end of the LA onto the studs as long as the holes are not cross -axle holes. you will find it here as well as other odd bricks: http://www.eurobrick...1entry1052346 It is made to fit inside of there. just put it in so the opening in the sleeve has the gear racks in there like in the original LXF file. I think using this sleeve and runner is the best way because there is little weight and little change of failiure due to only having two parts., the toothed belt is using fine teeth which means it is much better to adjust too.

when building a car for example id try to minimize the amount of sudds on the bodywork.

Old technic (90's) UFO and other space themes from 90's The monorail systm Model team - it was excellant Lego BASIC, even, it is just system lol Train (90's)

then use the other type of sleeve. it is also in LDD

Ies I know that but there is no real way to implement that, how will that be able to be meshed? It should run fine when put in the original orienation with no gears on it or pins right?

then you can use the other type of runner sleeve of use the technic 1.2 dark grey pins (not to be confused with the technic light grey pin with stud brick) to get a little bit of clearence between the beam, and the gear rack so it fits inside of the runner sleeve. alternitivley you can use system 1x1x1 round bricks to raise the gear racks possibley.

yup.