SNIPE

Hi, I want to show a cool way to have 4 10 tooth pinion gears inside of one technic diff instead of the usual 3, you can do this with either of these gears in a set of 4: http://img269.images...12012145546.jpg I think it is better than the three gear differential because it has a second 'driver' so it makes the load/traction on either side of the diff even, I broke MANY pinions before doing this but I dobt this will break as easily, (my reason is I added too many pull back motors and axles going all over the place to the fllimsy real wheels so that broke many pinion gears. You just put one side gear and the top gear that has the little stud to keep it place on, put that axle through the side gear then you have to put the other ones in as far as they will go but then take them out a little but and slip the teeth futer in but while keeping it meshed with the pre assembled side. then you put the other axle in as well as the yellow bushers.

Hi, What do you want me to do (specifically) How big will this be and what features do you want on it? Does it have to be a certain color, what vehicles are in the model? any compatibility for minifigs such as vehicle cabins and offices Is there any mechanical functions involved in technic/pf/phumatics,etc What kind of station is this? does it include cells? or it it just full of offices,computers,etc?

I have been able to try the same thing with a simaiat part to the 57515 in real life you just have to be very carefull as they do bend to help you put the axle through but you dont want to break it by bending it too far. The only real problem I can see is the purle litarm axle is kind of hanging onto whats left of the axle but I thinkni know how to strenghen that if needed.

Hi im using the following in series (on the same axle) : 0.5L crosshole with friction 1L crosshole no friction 0.5L round hole that joins to the main section of wishbone A 1L round hole 0.5L round hole that joins to the main section of wishbone A So I was wondering, can I force in a 3L axle with stud in real life onto a 57515 wishbone. like how this digital model is arranged: The stud is pressed onto the 57515 which frictionises it at that end so that it can move with the axle with not as much load going to the purple liftarm. and it helps keepthe axle from sliding right out. Note that the green bits would be one brick in real life , blue brick is the 1L hole without friction, yellow brick is the 1L round hole, purple brick is the 0.5L cross hole with friction, green is the two 0.5L round holes. LDD does not have a 57515 part so the green brick replicates that.

Man ive beek looking for a part that is 2x2 holes but with a center hole so thanks for showing me the gears in the above diff you posted I still think my diff is better becuse of the limited slip between each worm gear mesh, it is putting it into a model with the above key parts listed that im stuck with.

ok A.

Hi, im in a real pickle. The model is a torsen differential that works by spinning round a set of 4 worms gears which spin another spur gear meshed onto that, at split second points the gear is totally unmeshed because lego dont make a larger torsen gear and even if they did the worm gears in my model slip against each other by rotating to a point where only the other one has to rotate for the prior one to spin a little more. and so on until there is a recycle of the original worm gear Id like to have wishbones and working suspention , the suspention Here I'd like to be able to have this differential to be part of a x928cx1 suspention box connected to the hole that pivots the wishbones (the hole of the box is the one that rotates wlong with the internal spring) and id like to use the CV joints, the 57515 wishbones and the x873cx1 spindle so the car as steering. Here is the building guide to the torsen diff, the LXF file keeps on deleting parts when you open the file so I cant upload that.

Yeah I agree, they UV joints are far too weak Perhaps a cable tie round the end of a uv joint with the excess flap cut off of the cable tie neatly would help.

hi, Here are some tips: Have the axle supports up against the gear to avoid having 'play' in the axle and therefore is not as good for traction. Put the motor in a place where its weight is more evenly distributed. Other that that, good start.

Hi, Thanks for the very good advice, I am a collector of lego too so the stuff was given to me as presents from my family, ive had them for almost all my life, my parents are not bothered if I have my lego or not so since the parts have devalued in cost anyway it means I can sell them I can sell the model for more than it is worth in parts because you have to include the price of desighning and building, P&P+delivery. The feedback thing can be changed so you can respond to pepole, so if I try hard enough then there should not be a problem with that I can include warnings about things in the descripion before they buy it too , they should hopefully spot that. For example I can put how the items are packaged in the description. Photos should not be a problem much as I can have 3 photos for each 'small' classification of my mocs, the bricklink URL of my moc gallery will be put into each description. Im starting off with a smallish model. The way I think of it is if they pay for it then hey can make a copy of it because it is not out of my expense as they will have to buy the parts so if they do then can sell it on ebay if they want. hopyfully the expirience gained after playing with lego for a long time will make pepole drawn towards my MOCs, I dont know. maybe it will be a rumor thing that such and such is better. (basically the image of the seller) Either that or I can put the html file onto a cd but watermark the file so it counts as proof they it was pirated, the html file is the instructions to the model. Taking photos, making them ,printing them is free, putting the first photo or first 3 photos are meant to be free (i fotget) Making the boxes should not cost very much at all., I have a loft full of empty boxes. p&p and delivery of the model is paid by the buyer, I will not have a buy it now option this time but if I did I could include the price of P&P ,etc in that cd's are quite cheap, I can borrow a one from my brother or whatever.

Hi, is this a good idea because they dont need to pay for much of the extra stuff lego charge such as packaging and their brand name etc I can make these things really good so pepole will like them How do i work out a good price too keeping in mind mybexpenses and profits

the most effective way ive seen is to attach the wishbones to the hole tha rotetes, there is spring so when you twist the axle in the hole it returns back to the center the part is this: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=x928cx1 I used these on my current project which is a car that has working suspention, steering, braking,, engine and diffs, etc while driving upside down and right side up This means the suspention needs to have negative and positive stroke, the part shown above can achive +90 degres max of travel and 9 degres max of travel, it is set to 0 degree as dafault.

I too have wanted to buy the parts seperate but you cant, and the are almost impossible to seperate without breaking one of them.

I'D hope so.

Wow and thanks!

I assume the top has 10 full studs on the underside id guess it would have 10 clutch cells then another 3 cells that linkup two rows. another thing is that most clutches have the offset clutch cell which is inbetween a 2x2 layout of cells. id picture this to typically have 3 of these, 2 at the top and one at the bottom.

Hi, Im liking these designs a lot and in the future there will be many many more bricks to come so im not really wprried about having a model that cant work because it needs a certail specical brick, because they will probably be one eventually. I supported your project in lego cuusoo.

Hi, Can somebody help me figure something out, I want to make new parts in Ldraw and save each dat file in a directory then I want to load each file onto the script of the model instead of having the code for each part in there. How would you join two bricks together by scripting? (may be app Metadata), in LDraw there must be the code for the mapping of each part as to where abouts it is. For example: A 1x1 brick code is: 0 Brick 1 x 1 0 Name: 3005.dat 0 Author: James Jessiman 0 !LDRAW_ORG Part UPDATE 2002-03 0 !LICENSE Redistributable under CCAL version 2.0 : see CAreadme.txt 0 BFC CERTIFY CCW 0 !HISTORY 2001-10-26 [PTadmin] Official Update 2001-01 0 !HISTORY 2002-05-07 [unknown] BFC Certification 0 !HISTORY 2002-06-11 [PTadmin] Official Update 2002-03 0 !HISTORY 2007-05-07 [PTadmin] Header formatted for Contributor Agreement 0 !HISTORY 2008-07-01 [PTadmin] Official Update 2008-01 0 BFC INVERTNEXT 1 16 0 24 0 6 0 0 0 -20 0 0 0 6 box5.dat 4 16 10 24 10 6 24 6 -6 24 6 -10 24 10 4 16 -10 24 10 -6 24 6 -6 24 -6 -10 24 -10 4 16 -10 24 -10 -6 24 -6 6 24 -6 10 24 -10 4 16 10 24 -10 6 24 -6 6 24 6 10 24 10 1 16 0 24 0 10 0 0 0 -24 0 0 0 10 box5.dat 1 16 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 0 0 0 1 stud.dat 0 So If I wanted to join another one ontop of that (the part is 3005) but without any of them being rotated from another (since they are 1 stud they are able to do this in real life) id have to figure out some way of putting a section of code between the two parts in the model file. Note how in the script above there is the areas of that part (3005) such as box.dat and stud. dat , I could use these too. not sure yet When I stack two 3005 bricks using the GUI and save the model the code of the file is tiny! which I dont get because how do know what is happening if there is little code, I wont know the part colour, etc, etc, etc (maybe it does explain everything that we see in the model but I doubt it) Here is the code of the file that has x2 3005 bricks stacked on-top of one another: 0 Brick 1 x 1 0 Name: 3005.dat 0 Author: James Jessiman 0 Unofficial Model 1 16 -10 7.73205 1.000001 -0 0 -1 -0.5 0.866025 0 0.866025 0.5 -0 3005.dat 1 16 -10 -13.052557 -10.999997 -0 0 -1 -0.5 0.866025 0 0.866025 0.5 -0 3005.dat Also, here is the file: http://www.brickshel...s/ge/3005x2.ldr If the above link does not work right click it and hit 'save target as' OR hit 'save link location' if you are using mac O. (yes I did forget to change the model author in the above code of the model) So in theory this whole thing is just building and making the parts in code.

if you want to see a new way of building check out the 'tree model' and the other models in my post: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59417 the post explains how it works , etc

If you have questions about it please ask, I think in the below exmaple is: 1st = all three clutch gears meshed, the middle red axle meshed with the clutch, nothing else meshed at all. I dont know for sure because I only just finished putting the external gears on, you'll have to experiment with it and see what happnes. The middle clutches are obvioustly there for another set of configurations, this is good because it does not mean having lots of spcings between lots of external gears like on other models I have seen. Normal clutches of a gearbox (not the clutch pedal clutch plate) dont mesh together, The axles with the axle joiners on are the input and output shafts (blue = to engine). Here is the LXF file of the model:

OK ill do that, im looking forward to seeing it work!

I have a few parts around, which are not all on bricklink and id like to get any info on them. Note to moderator: Here is my topic, please can you merge it into one post There is two topics really: links removed ------------ thanks and good luck!

I would have to buy the parts and my mother does not like the idea of buying things from eurobbricks.com incase somebody scams me or something. it sucks, I know

there is no real life model I have made but it should work because there is only two essential parts, the axle and the clutch barrel that has teeth on it to link them together if engadged. the spacers between the axle holders are part no '42446' The axle hole just goes through these so keep the spacing of the axle holder bricks and the teeth on the barrels in place.

This is all very intresting and claver, because you can use the diff with the gear internal clutches (not the cluch for the clutch pedal) I made an internal clutch system that was able to have either the 6, 7+7th or 6th+7th +8th gear positions disabled., any input could be configured as A reverce gear, you just have to add what gears you want onto the ends of each clutch The only difference is that to slide to another bay of gears you dont put the lever back in the middle, here is a diagrap of it, the blue liens represent the movement of the gear stick: park ('P'). and '??' can be anything you want it you just have to add the right outer setup of gears. the example below is just my imaginary setup. The clutches have teeth on them themselves for if you want to have a transter case or a low range box or a diff lock or more gears for something. the gears would normally attach to the end of each clutch (there is an axle either side of them.) Here is the image: The axles ca be moved aswell either by motors or by a shifter but id use this as an alternitive unless you want lots of levers or a large linkage system. the clutches have housings over each one which have notches on the top, these notches are meshed with the gear leve which moves the clutch if you are not using the axle moving feature.