SNIPE

i have tried using the auto center, it is not very good because you can only turn the wheel 90 degrees and it is quite hard to turn the wheel too. if your looking for that then yeah go for it , i think the F1 car can perform 1.1 turns however not a quarter turn (90 degrees)

hmm that wont help because there is a tire that goes over the brick (that brick will be the rim of the wheel assembly) so a cone will not be good i should be fine now after finding more.parts to create a new assembly that could work

return the tubs for larger ones, you can get more space if you have 1 huge tub than 2 or 3 smaller ones. also look for ones that are taller.

hi, is there such thing as any of the below parts but with a cross hole bit in the underside, i seem to recall me using some but after getting 5 out of the box there seems to be smooth undersides: http://www.bricklink...m.asp?P=3062old http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=3062b http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=3062a http://www.bricklink...sp?P=3062oldpx1 http://www.bricklink...asp?P=3062bpb37 http://www.bricklink...asp?P=3062bpb36 http://www.bricklink...asp?P=3062bpb35 http://www.bricklink...asp?P=3062bpb01 http://www.bricklink...asp?P=6933cpb01 http://www.bricklink...asp?P=6933cpb02 http://www.bricklink...tem.asp?P=6933c if there is not any like that with a cross hole, do any of the above have a cross hole. note that the whole part of the hole is not crossed, ,its like that so far down so the first area is round and then it would go to crosses when you go further into the underside clutch.

meccano is what im thinking but yeah it would be better if lego made them out of metal in some aspects, i really want more bricks from lego however because you run into problems that cant be solved (well i do) i had the idea of making my owl lego type set out of metal but

by pushing it on, the tires move a little so i can do that as for the width, i did this in LDD and it did not work at all. are you sure both drums cant have a cross axle through them? whats the length of each of these drums in say MM if you know/can find out i have seen a couple of other things that would be better as rims, ill post pics of them tommorrow, one is just a 1x1 stud (exactually 1x1 stud) round system brick that is 2 studs tall some have a cross sectioned underside, others have a round.underside for either a stud or a cross axle or a non locking system pin.which you see on the gate bricks (for example)

thats correct yes, i have a question, can this be used with a technic cross axle: http://www.bricklink...em.asp?P=30027b if that cant be used with a cross axle, how about using the geared winch barrel, the spikes will grip the tire, it has a cross axle and the dimensions are good http://www.bricklink...=P&catString=88 http://www.bricklink...Item.asp?P=2585 not sure what the difference is between these two winch drums. the top one looks like the one i have. EDIT: after attaching the winch drum and tire together in LDD it shows that they do not work together at all.

i cant see any other tires like that the tire wear thing is just a point of reference , im not bothered about tire wear it just happens to work like that i need the hub to be able to mash with the axle by having a cross hole since i need to have the wheels driven still by the motor and axle. this is a technic part, it is from the LEGO 8430 mag wheel blaster which is a technic set and fits over a technic piece (i cant really name it properly of by heart) i don't want to use bigger wheels and tires because i think these will be fine, on a life sized go cart they have wheels just like that. if i need to i will look for alternatives but i still need help in finding the sides of the rim/wheel i have not seen many other tires that are are as slick as that however

hi, i am making a micro go-cart and after going through my parts i decided that the small wheels would accelerate the best, i also wanted wheels that were relatively wide for their given height. i would be using these on flat surfaces of course, the tires are also slick tires and are stickier then other tires i tested on the same type of rim/wheel i like the inner part of the wheel/rim because it allows the tire to compress a little bit for more grip because the rim is slightly smaller than the tire inner diameter, but this is also depending on the side parts of the rim, i have one where it is using two 8 tooth spur gears either side and one pulley bush in the middle, the other is two pulley bushes in the middle and a 10 tooth bevel gear either side. (it does not really matter that one of the pulley bushes is toothed. the one with the bevel gears may make contact with the driving surface which is bad but it makes the tire harder which can be good and bad, where as the other one enables the tire to be softer and have more contact without the rim getting caught the driving surface. the difference between hard and soft tyres is that the harder they are the less life the tyre has and depending on the the rubber used it can either be hard on the surface but easy/hard to compress or sticky on the surface and hard/easy to compress. if both the hard and soft Tyre has the same properties the hard tyre would have more grip on a track but less life where as a soft Tyre would have less grip but more life it would also depend on the dimensions etc but in a given case where they are both the same in properties and dimension it would be the case of that above. if anybody can think of a rim middle and/or rim sides id like to hear them, just as long as is uses that Tyre. also which one would you pick out of these two: i am thinking that the one that has the 8 tooth spur gears will be best because although its soft which means lesser grip the surface is flat and sticky which is good for what i want. it will maybe be too sticky on the driving surface maybe however.: here is the rim assembly and both types:

Hi, I've just came up with a good model, pneumatic springs are kind of slow and take up too much space. The black pin would not fit but it attaches through the two half mounts and the shock mount. the two pointed forks on one side is the catches, the two fork mounts on the opposite side is for the trigger mechanism. Here is the current model of the mechanism:

Hi, i need some way of building the trigger and locking mechanism so that when you pull the slider back on the side of the gun it keeps the bullet in place ready to be fired, and when you press the trigger it unlocks that and pushes the springs out therefore firing out the bullet. I have the muzzle barrel done and the sliding mechanism on the side which has the firing springs built in. The bullets simply fall out of the mag into the gun by gravity as the mag is on the side but tilted a little so each bullet will roll out, this means that since the loading gap is the right size, only one bullet will go in at a time, the rest will be queued in the magazine. This does not effect the aiming much also because it does not get in the way of the sight. The slider on the side has a grip which you slide back, this loads the bullet into the channel where it is then ready to be loaded by sliding the side grip back and then letting go of it. Here is the model itself so far: http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/finneykris/mfr/gun.lxf The orange bit is just the slider mechanism itself. In short the thing i need needs to keep the slider back when put there, and release it when the trigger is pressed, it also has to compress the springs you see which fire the bullet out. elastic bands usually snap or get weakened so i was thinking of somehow using springs or parts of the LEGO spring assembly's but if that cant be done then i will probably have to use them.

can somebody tell me of any LEGO IR receivers. I've looked at a NXT one and you can't just run that one from a battery, and the PF receiver is too big and it has a channel switch, i need to use one channel for each motor which connects to each receiver

is there a RCX reviver , i recall that these are 4x2 bricks and don't have any channel switches, id just cram 8 of these in

the lego IR TX/RX has 4 channels so i need two of them not three i need to use the channels at the same time. is there no NXT stuff or old lego stuff i can use? cant i use the LEGO transponders as pas through receivers? or something? if i send them using a single channel TX/RX attached to the NXT sensor port ans use this as the remote and control the packets by programming the NXT brick how will they go to each motor without having to use a channel switch on the TX/RX that is inside the vehicle? maybe i can use 6 or 8 of the RCX light or whatever there called sensors as they are small and single channel. i think ill need a controller on both ends for that, i know that some of these sensors have on board flash ram, maybe i could store a packet address validation script on that, but i don't know what will execute it.

i was wanting to use two remotes (not the speed ones, the other ones) for 8 channels, can i do this? youd have the 6 motors and two other ones which are not being used yet, these motors are attached to the three transmitter/receivers and those are then attached to the battery. there is two remotes in one enclosure controlling them for the spare two motors id need another transmitter/receiver.

sounds good, what battery box can i use (AKA what battery types and how many.) obviously id only want the right amount of batterys to get the rough amount of voltage and current to power all 6 motors, i don't need anything too much , this also saves space.

ill try but , i can attach two remotes together like a ps2 control pad and i can use the spare two channels for the motors that move the car. (8 channels, 6 for the gearbox, one for the engine motor and one which has not been decided what to get used on yet.

but i need 6 channels what are these NXT keyfob transponders used for?

huh?

hi, is there i way that i can control 6 micro motors from some kind of IR remote or controller? space is limited so i cannot hook the motors up to a LEGO NXT or something similar, maybe i could use the NXT as part of the wireless remote case/shell somehow

hmm on the pic is has what looks like a black disk with one stud on it i was thinking about using the 8 tooth gear and a worm gear with this motor to push and pull a 3L axle which is loosely meshed with a winding drum that is used for a clutch and internal gear. (see green clutches in picture below they is a cross hole in the middle of the clutch which allows it to turn with the axle but also slide along , OR let the axle slide along. the actual cross hole section of the overall hole is only like 1mm wide, which is even less that the technic bushes. but still, it is practical for fast switching of axles since less of the axle nan be meshed into the cross section. note that i only need about 4 or 5mm of stroke from each axle. i just need to figure out a way to get 6 channel IR transmitting and receiving while keeping space minimal but i guess that's for another thread. not even sure if i will control them wirelessly yet anyhow, maybe just some switches will be more practical.

i mean m stud, axle or cross hole or round hole or peg or peg hole or hose/thinner axle or hose/thinner axle hole

what connector does the red motor have and can you post a pic of the second motor.

the new actuator does not look good for what i need as it has the wrong attachment and two mount arms which will get in the way, also i don't know if this can be operated with a motor where the motor spins and the actuator operates. i am thinking of forgetting the idea and just sticking with the box as it will either be hard to operate the box if i is setup like a real gearbox since the car has a door and doors here is the photo i forgot to upload: there is 6 axles since they are separate and not going right the way through the box. Q: what is the smallest LEGO motor they make (official part) i could always mount the motor with a gear rack and link all the motors up to NXT key fob transducer which is then sent to a remote control. if this possible?

hi, i need a way to push and pull each axle and it needs to be small, my gearbox is4x3x studs and it can be used as a center dif too (aka as two gearboxes, one for the front and one for the back wheels. can you put a motor on the back of the LEGO linear actuator (i only use LEGO parts, nothing else if so then that might solve the problem. i only need about 3 or 4 millimeters of stroke. if i use an actuator, i can use a IR sender and use a lego IR remote so control it all, i am not going to bother with lego battery packs, i can use the lego train terminal cables to hook to each end of the battery then attach them to a plate which has the metal tabs then on the opposite side of the plate, i can attach the PF or technik cable to the motor.+ir transmitter/receiver. however this will take up loads of room as well has these large actuators, batteries, motors, and wiring so i dont like the sound of this idea also. any other help will be good