SNIPE

the wishbones would move up and down but the wheel will be cambered (tilted) though the ball joints do allow the wheel to tilt the opposite way to it is less cambered. i don't know if it will work the only way to know is to build it and try it i dont think you have to have two uk joints as one is making sure the diff does not tild with the wishbones and the other is making sure that the wheel does not tilt with the wishbones mine only keeps the diff in check but the front ball joints which allow the steering to work by tolding the spindle left and right, can also tilt the spindle up and down so that the wheels will not be as cambered. the steering might not also work but it can only be verified for certain again by building it and trying it out, this is why i said in the original post that you can move the wishbones further apart (not at the wheel end but the diff end of the wishbones) so that the universal joints have more space to work i am building a front assembly for my project but i am not as limited to space and the one i built is similar to this one but it has less parts for less to go wrong but it is longer than this one

hi, i spent the last few days building in LDD and made up a front axle unit that i am quite pleased about (whether it works in real life or not is another thing but you can still try to change the assembly to get it to work.) here is an image, for a 360 view you can download the LDD file here and this will help to build it too note that where the red ball joints are, they should attach to the red axles, i recommend using the 3L or 4L technic steering arms as i am sure they will fit but if they don't just replace the ball joints with a pin or axle and use something that can be attached to the other default axle such as a technic beam. if you want the option to make it 4wd,2wd or idle wheels, you can attach the clutch or make one yourself that drives the front diff, it can either make it 2, 4 or no wheel drive if you attach the drive shaft to both of the dark grey gears that mesh with the clutch. (the axle joining each of the two gears by another gear should be separate to each other other so they don't move the other axle when you did not set the clutch to do that) the front diff only a single slip diff meaning that only the drive shaft can move both front wheels at the same time and in the same direction and the front can also drive the rear if you use the clutch and if it is set in the right position) the specs are: 4WD/2WD/idler vehicle configurations independent suspension and universal joint axles for two pivot motion per side working steering that can have HOG compatibility disk brakes (not functional of course) torsion beam suspension and wishbones diff case and drive shaft angle adjustment steering shaft angle adjustment wheel camber angle adjustment (depending on if the rims and tires are big enough to leave a ground clearance to attach them in which case the camber adjustment beams can then be attached and function. steering sensitivity can be adjusted by adding a larger gear on the same axle, after the small gear then attaching that to the driver (such as a motor or your hand (HOG) ***NOTE*** the height between the wishbones at the end where the diff is (not the spindle and disk brakes) can be adjusted but it will mean taking apart a lot of the assembly and modifying it so that it will fit and still function properly, since this is meant to be a small design i left out the additional parts such as the camber beams and clutch.) rims and tires i left off for clarity and because i assume they are already specified by the creator of this thread) here is the LDD file of the assembly http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/finneykris/mfr/micro_front_unit.lxf here is the LDD file of the clutch, and wheel camber adjustment shafts) http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/finneykris/mfr/micro_front_unit_with_lutch_and_camber_adustment.lxf image of it here: http://i52.tinypic.com/v5a73l.png the blue axle in the camber represents a threaded technic axle of the same length, and the yellow spacers on that blue axle represent technic nuts to adjust the camber) these are color coded for reference and as mentioned , the red parts in the LDD file of the main assembly represents link points for the suspension link arms. any adjustments are up to you, it should need to be mounted for-fully which means you need to attach the assembly to the vehicle in the right places in order for the parts to work. ****NOTE**** that if the clutch is set to the middle position it enables 4wd, the other two positions are to select whether its front or rear wheel drive, if you want idle move you have to attach another two grey gears onto of the original two with split axles. EDIT: here is another image but with different wishbone axle to chassis mounts. http://i54.tinypic.com/2ed2jy1.png edited parts are highlighted in green also the suspension is mounted sideways now to save unneeded height (also in the above image) and i attached some bottom axles to the wishbones as a marker of where it could be mounted to the chassis. *****NOTE***** here is an image of a longer steering rack, http://i51.tinypic.com/nn40us.png also if you attach a larger gear onto the same axle as the original steering spur gear it will control the movement of the original spur gear which means you can adjust the sensitivity of the steering and how much the wheels steer when you turn the axle that holds the spur gear.just as long as the larger gear is connected to what moves the axle. (motor or bevel gears for a vertical HOG steering dial for example)

yup i seen it after i posted and i thought it was the first one.

i will be happy to hear any new features that people have seen in LDD 4.1.7 including any new bricks

thanks, if ive not sent it by tommorrow feel free to remind me

please send me your email address so i can help outside of the forum i dont think there is a way to help you that does not break the forum rules

ok that's never going to fit in a million years

hi i was thinking about using the Orange lid as a disk brake insead of using the domed plate here: http://www.spareblocks.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/hqpkji01.jpg i need to know the dimentions of the part and i need to know what colours it is availible in and where i can buy it in that color, i cannot see it on bricklink.com, only sparebricks.com but in orange only. here is the part http://www.spareblocks.com/sitebuildercontent/sitebuilderpictures/spwwqxmb04.jpg the grey domed plate above is 6x6 and the orange one needs to be able to fit inside of these rims http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=22969 id like to get a grey one (of any tiny/shade). here is the page with the two disk brakes/domes plates/lid plates above on: http://www.spareblocks.com/id57.html

can the modulex bricks i posted to attached to the specified LEGO bricks?

what is this measured in? 1x1x1 sounds weird a 2x1 LEGO brick should be around 10mmx5mmx6mm (6mm tall 10mm long on the side with two studs and 5mm wide on the side with 1 stud, a 2x1 modulex brick should be similar to these dimensions, the studs might be placed at a different width to that of the LEGO studs on modulex i want to attach: http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=Mx1042B to a 4x2 stud system brick http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=Mx2401A to each stud of a 4x2 stud system brick (using 8 of those modulex bricks)

in that case i better stick with using the spindle inner part and using the 4L universal joint (if it works) (post for that is here http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=54506&st=15&gopid=983735entry983735 and here http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=54506&st=0&p=974017&hl=SNIPE&fromsearch=1entry974017)

if it did fit i could use 4L or 3L joints joints or mix and match one half of the joint for a 3L and the other end can be a 4L since you can un-clip the UV joints or buy them as a separate part. or i could use the old type UV joints also ,how much the UV joint is pushed into the spindle will make an effect.

hi, in this picture http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=techstr04 i see the two parts together but i don't know how they are attached, it looks like there is a attachment hole in the top adn bottom of each part so does an axle or pin need to be put in there? i want to put either this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=6628 or this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=2736 in the top and bottom holes of this http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=techstr02 so that i can mount these http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=57515

i think it could be that the UV joint was at too much of a hinge, if you rotate them and twist them too much they will either jam up or feel a little cranky depending on how steep the angle of hinging it is.

what do you mean by ratio, there is different dimension system basic bricks such as the ones with 1 stud, the ones with 2x2 studs etc (o don't know their dimensions)

hi, can the znap bricks be used with technic axles and pins/pegs?

hi, can the Modulex bricks be attached to regular LEGO system bricks ?

WOW , WOW WOW! that lotus looks so good, you can hardly seen any open studs and stuff, especially on the body, these models are uncanny, i'm astounded for words and these models are a giant metaphor to lego , i really dont know why pepole think or say bad things about it

i seen this also after removing everything but the gears and the axles for the gears. also, i would not use two big motors like that, another question is, how does it change gear? i seen no mechanism there to do so.

the pinion gears are thinner but can be used not at an angle, like normal gears

there is none except for the one from the RC car unfortuletley even that needs to be drilled out it looks like i will have to look on the internet for the right part or buy the whole assembly

that's why i asked here originally if somebody already had the part (which was separated) but i guess it was misread or badly explained. i have the part already from the lego Ferrari sets but i don't want to break the part because its part of a set and maybe it will get sold one day also, plus my parents wont like me doing this. i can't find the separate part itself for sale, maybe you can help with that if would be kind of pointless buying the assembled part then breaking the middle bit plus the UV joint may still not fit in, and just having one of these parts is not that useful, you need 4 of them really, for a car or something.

i don't suppose this will be any better http://www.bricklink.com/catalogItem.asp?P=9244a did you DEFINITELY disassemble the two parts of this: http://www.bricklink.com/PL/x873c01.gif and use only the outer parts for the ball joints, the part with the three pins for the wheel is NOT getting used at all only the outer spindle that has the ball joints on is getting used so i can put the UV joint through that larger hole. i am not using the central cup or any of the black portion because it is disconnected from the yellow bit

did you use only the yellow bit to put the universal joint through? (this means taking out the 3 studded wheel center bit.

ill wait and check for certain but if anybody else can help then that will be cool.