SNIPE

Which truck is it again? Note that the torsions must be able to work from side A and from side B A and B are both close to the ground as the car can drive upside down This means there has to be a limit in the stroke or flex somewhere in the middle not at top or bottom ends.

Hi, can anybody give me some ideas on a torsion system for a rollcage car I am making, I am thinking about giving up as there is not much use in terms of bricks. Incase you are wondering,, tortion is basically glass, carbon fible or spring steel which flexes then returns to its original position. F1 cards have it fitted. I need the beams to be quite short but I will look at ideas because that would be easier as maybe they can be developed anyway. It is also hard to say the exact size.

the LDD model is for somebody who wants an actuator that has a larger stroke (or somehting simular) i can only get to a certai point in the mode before it crashes it does not seem to like the bricks I am putting together. i usually get the error when i select the model and try and drag it it is only lile 20 bricks but still, i here is the LDD file: Linear Actuator.lxf when i put the runner sleeve (put aside in the model file ^) onto the loose toothed bar so that it is over the top of the inside beam for the runner it crashes if it does not it will when i try and move the whole model. when it crashes i get the loading cursor then the application quits, giving me the error report. ive tried asking pepole at freenode IRC, (in the mac channel) , no such luck

Hi, I am trying to build a model of a linear actuator but when I try and do certain things to the model LDD keeps crashing here is the error report: http://pastebin.com/dNTQtmCU urgent, help needed please!

One of those is powerful, two is amazing , it depends on your model really, im not going to add two of them to a model that cant handle the power or just looks bad with them. Yes this motor should be more powerful if you use the correct voltage (you will have to work out what batterie amount to use then get the correct lego be atery pack. using a lower amount means that the motor is not as powerful However these do not have as much touque as some of the other motors from Lego, I am referring to speed and voltage. If you want 2 or 4 axles from one motor you could try a 12v train motor, this is compact and means you dont have to have two motors OR add a differential or other gears. You can use OHMs law to work out the current over the voltage and resistance. voltage is not that important, its current that is what matters

i think I could make the rear engine attach to the axle of the rear wheels but no moving pistons.

I would reccomend using the 12v motors alough it depends on the current really. These dont have any gears inside and are not too big: You will have to experiment with the power source but dont overload it otherwise you can burn the motor out I have not seen any information on the internet about the amount of current these motors can handle so its a blind guess but, if you use the baterys. If you can make 12 volts using batteries with a lego battery pack then that would be fine I would use the newest batteries of a good maker availible, these now ones are very good. Im really not so good at electronics to be honest but I know a bit.

I use two 30 drawer cabs and a 20 drawer cab and a storage box which is 'meccano' as well as temporary stuff for lego system I temorerily use a storage box these cabs are good because they have small draws however after sorting %90 of m technik out I out the cabs on the windowcil where they do not get in the way however my mother opnes the window when the latch on it is not very good and instead of it opening the usual way which is fine it swings open like a door because its really windy so all that stuff gets knocked off Now I cant be bothered to sort it out, this is not the first time she has knocked these cabs over.

If you like old technic although there is even older stuff then I would recommend buying a Lego 8448 or something similar in that old technic theme but with around the same quantity of parts. This can either for parts for free building, or to build the model(s) itself i remember when i built mine and managed to have the gulling doors and the boot lid in the same model, I had to use some spare non pneumatic shocks for the boot lid because there was only two pneumatic shocks, one for each door instead of four. I later went crazy and added tons of stuff but eventually is kept falling apart so I dismantled it, i used a few modern parts aswell.

Hi, I think that it has to be up to them to be creative, they learn along the way by making mistakes or problems (they don't exactually make themselves) and hopefully fixing them. As for building sets, they are good but I find them boring when I am working through them and if its a big set I send to do it for a few weeks then get bored of it for like up to a year, sure it's rewarding when its finished. So yeah, I would give them a couple of handfuls of bricks and see what they can come up with. remember that more is less and vice versa. so don't give them piles of bricks to start off with.

My choice for Lego system (including a system theme such as city) would be a huge 'glass' dome building, I tried to build one with my uncles Lego collection when I was very young, but ran out of transparent parts, however i liked the parts at the time so the idea stuck of that model. I used the green windows from the Lego 6999/6900.

I could spend days on it if I had the chance. I tend to spend up to 15 hours on it because I have to do other little things. If I am writing stuff about it or in lego digital designer then it would be more..

Hi, After much work and brain frying I got it finished, Here is the finished model in LDD of the corer brick and the front/rear wall brick and the side left/right wall brick aligned correctly but not put together (should be three 'bricks' in the LDD file all together.) Note that the corner brick has both those straight brick type elements already attached because it makes up the correct length for each end of the wall and does not require a half width straight brick or a brick moved to be latitudinal to start the opposing wall of the corner.) Here is the .LXF file http://www.brickshel...front_brick.lxf And here is a screen shot: Note that these colors are only for marking areas of the build, and this is not the roof of floor corner/straight bricks because they have the blue 2x8 bricks attached so you can put another layer on-top of it. The color it will hopefully be (all of this assembly) will be 'black'

Hi, Today I built two straight bricks on top of each other (not offset because i did not have enough bricks to have two on one row then on placed alternately in the middle of a new row on top of those) I only JUST had enough bricks to complete it, the hardest part was getting the struts (walls of the brick) to join together using only 2z4 and a few 2x6 bricks (the L brick design is not going to be possible due to a short amount of those bricks online) So I made a new way of being able to have one brick go one direction and have the other one going the opposite (like an L shape but with two bricks) whilst making sure there is no bricks that stack on top of each other in series (aka not alternately) because that is the strongest way to build a wall. In the video I point to the parts where the corner bricks would attach to , the corner bricks will also not have L plates and use the same brick to brick locking, I might take out the 2x6 and black 2x2 bricks and use 2x8 bricks when I get more bricks). Here is the strength test video , shame I don't have anything heavier to test with it. when I get enough bricks I would hope to make an entire layer (aka four walls that are two layers (two of these bricks) high, including the four corner bricks, it would be approximately 1 meters long, 1.5 meters wide and two bricks high). http://img190.images...3/file28397.mp4 The modified LXF files should be uploaded soon. (one for the straight and one for the corner brick)

Hi, This reminds me of all the stuff I use around my room to put certain Lego bricks that I want separate for some amount time.

Hi, Well, With girders, they commonly do not have loads either side pulling it, they have a under-load where something is under it and a load on-top of it.(my building does not have side loads pulling on it) The sides eventually will slope down, this is because it is less likely to come undone ,try making a wall of bricks using the standard method and leave one brick in the middle sticking out then try and pull it out, it is harder than say if it was on the top row of the wall. This is the same principal as the sides but they are in columns (vertically) (if this is a real building it is in between two other non lego objects anyhow, they should not be attached , they should just be there because it was imagined that way (AKA being open to the public and being in a row of other buildings) When you get past the slopes on the sides there is another stright wall that is covering that up so it looks like the normal wall of a building. I cannot guarantee anything because theory is not enough. PS: the corner brick is not the L plates, those are internal You would have several L plates stacked up to create the edge of a large wall and the ends of the corner bricks hold the straight bricks The screen dumps have the L brick oriented as how it would be in the building, it is not on its side, it is built that way. When a heavy load is applied on it , (the corner bricks are actually the strongest points of the assembly) i think it will be fine because of the hundreds of layers of alternating bricks (straight and corner bricks are stacked and they imterlock with each other ( in the snapshots there is only one interlocking point to attach a straight brick(look at the bits sticking out of one end))). Hope that helped and fixed any doubt of a error. Speaking of errors , there is a build error in the LXF model (nof the one of the substander itself, the whole assembly and the outer structure (shell). That is fixed and will be uploaded soon.

Hi, Here are the LDD files: http://www.brickshel...orner_block.lxf http://www.brickshel...orner_block.lxf http://www.brickshel.../only_shell.lxf The L plates strips that are in stacks of 3 should actually be a these: Also when I tried to put two 8x16 plates inside of the gap in Prototype 1.0 they made it weaker somewhat, maybe that's a different story with the new models, I also think that larger bricks could be stronger, maybe 2x6 or bigger instead of 2x4 more info on the construction method and the corner brick is at: PDF Document Here so the actual brick count of the model is: originally all three models come to 1791 bits, that is 597 bricks per model but the models (as explained above) have less than that in real life (only one model is used in real life and its color is 'black') so it is 359 Here s how those bricks are allocated: in the real model the pink ,white and black L bricks come to 116 bricks (76 pink L bricks, 38 white L brick, and 2 black L bricks) (in the LDD model that's 228 pink L strips in the LDD model, 114 white L strips, and 6 black L strips the outer shell comes to 192 bricks the red bricks come to 46 the green bricks come to 4 bricks the pink brick comes to 1 brick

Hi, Over the past Three days I have been working on an idea I had about 8 months ago, It is a way to build large Lego supports that can withstand extremely high weight loads, I came up with the idea after seeing a television program on a TV presenter and his team who built a 1:1 scale two story, detached house entirely out of Lego, in the video there was experiments on trying to get a girder or whatever you might call it. to support the weight of the person behind the project (AKA: the presenter), they did some interesting stuff but they were just not substantial enough. so, instead they used a wooden frame to support the building for either side wobble from the wind and weight, or to lay the bricks on , or both (not 100% positive). At that moment of seeing it I started thinking and began experimenting myself (only with less bricks than the projects you see here) and realized that advanced building does not have to be standard building, so a few months later I started building a prototype model for an even bigger house than the one on that I saw on TV, it will be a two story with a loft, it will be about the same length and width as the one on the TV, but a different height and of course, weight. I would build the necessary key parts then see if anybody such as The Lego Group are interested (parts such as the wall bricks, the corner bricks, the floor bricks the roof bricks and he roof slope bricks). Maybe they will do something like this or the same as this in LegoLand or something ~ so I finally sorted my bricks out and built the red and yellow prototype (Prototype 1.0). it was good because I could stand on it and it did not break, when I did this I thought it was amazing until... I came up with the thought that actually, that brick was an odd shape and I then built a second model that was roughly the same dimensions but used a different building method again, this one did not creak as much when I stood on it or placed amplifiers and/or drawer cabinets on top of it (this model is Prototype 1.2). For a reason I don't recall (I probably thought it was the right way) I put Prototype 1.0 and Prototype 1.2 together to create an 'L' shape (Prototype 1,7, AKA: the first model of the corner brick for the walls), however, it was on the wrong axis because Prototype 1.2 increased the height when it should have been on the 'length' axis and came out that way, since I was not really used to building like that it took a little thought and many calculations to get it right but I finally came up with the final prototype of the first class of prototypes (the second class is in the screen dumps as 'Prototype 2.0' but it is a digital model), (since I do not have the right bricks or necessary amount of them yet). It is like the recent model in real life but it is the right color and has been strengthened by an advanced inner structure (I cannot guarantee if it will make a difference yet because it has not been tested but I have a good feeling it will make it stronger) The part of the model I worked on most was the part of the corner block that attaches to the side wall (this means you will see the studs or clutches because of the orientation of the 3D model). In the real life model the side part is slightly less strong (it creaks more when it is being tested) so that's what I am working on at the minute. Note that the blue brick (Prototype 1.2 is also part of the corner brick and it will simply attach onto the corner brick as the 'straight brick of the front and back wall', that is because it is the same height and width as the relative part of the corner brick. When I tested these, I put them through two tests, putting one foot on them then putting two feet on them, standing up both times, and the other test was, placing an amplifier, a drawer-cabinet and then both on-top of each prototype model, they both worked well prototype 1,0 and 1.2 but due to progress, the blue wall brick (Prototype 1.2) and the corner brick (Prototype 1.7) seem to be best, Also the side part of the corner brick seemed to be working fine with the support I added (although it was not completely finished as I do not have enough bricks to complete the support struts). So here are the images (screen shots) and videos, Hope you enjoy them. http://img717.images...46/file7462.mp4 http://img842.images...7/file7462k.mp4 http://img17.imagesh...46/file7462.mp4 http://img4.imagesha...4/file7462b.mp4 http://img585.images...46/file7462.mp4 Here is all three models , one has the internal foundations highlighted in purple for the major bits, the lesser structural parts in white , the increments of the white and purple struts are in red and the canter plates are in green. The other is the correct color of black compared to the real color of the specified bricks , the other looks more realistic to the black bricks in real life (that's the dark black model) Here is the internal Foundation: Here is the Shell on it's own: P.S , the width of a block (8 bricks laid out in alternate form in columns (not rows) of three (like a normal brick wall), actually makes it stronger, much like adding another layer of bricks on top of a 3 layer brick wall (built in the standard way of course). So adding another layer of bricks vertically is just the same, the load makes it stronger, like if you stand on a normal lego wall, it pushes the bricks together more. It would also be cool to hear your ideas on what you would like to build using this modelling/building system. For further explanations, here is a LDD snapshot of two trees (they can be two kinds of trees if think of it that way) in two different building designs .Note that these two trees are not meant to be identical or not meant to be 'better' by how they look (they are rough models just there to show how this way of building models is put into practise).

Hi, I definetley think that there is a huge amount of friction SA2L pegs that have been made since literally every technic set has at least one, some have 200 odd. another fun fact is that there is 6.5 million bricks made each year (possibly even more in this year) so there is enough bricks for each human to have 50 bricks on average (again, possibly even more than that, that may be in this year) note that in-between 2005 and 2009 there was an average increase of 46 Lego bricks for each person on earth so from 2009 to 20011 it stands to reason that people may have around 70. I seen a James May Documentary on Lego and it showed you the first brick that was 'created' and prototyped and patented hey were red 2x4 (I forgot to mention this above hand) and there was a few inside of a glass cabinet that had different clutches (not like the ones we see today) and these were all patents, i bet if there is any more of those bricks leaked anywhere, they would be worth more than your average 2x4. he also creates a "functional" 1:1 scale house as a project. here is the video: http://www.youtube.c...h?v=mEFPhXl3QQY (part 1) http://www.youtube.c...feature=related (part 2) http://www.youtube.c...feature=related (part 3) http://www.youtube.c...feature=related (part 4) http://www.youtube.c...feature=related (part 5) hope you like it

Kitchen roll and cleaning alcohol (not drinking alcohol, PLEASE do not get these mixed up or drink cleaning alcohol). it will come off with little effort and will not damage the plastic. (that's why it is in plastic bottles, no need to worry about the type of plastic that LEGO bricks are made from (Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene) so yes, I also recommend alcohol, i doubt that heat would work I think it would make it even more sticky Regards, Snipe

Hi, Here's a question, which Lego brick do you think is the most common/most popular that Lego has created, this can either mean in sets, or in media such as banners, icons, logos, artwork, etc I think that the most commonly used/recognized brick is the 2X4 (part number: 3001) so, what is your ideas?

Hi, Maybe Lego make the 4x4x9 (9 studs tall) rock bricks in grey colors the top and bottom attach either by friction or by slip (part number is 30293 and 30294) if you want smaller ones I think there is a technic ball that has a cross hole, maybe there can be a Lego sticker of a rock pattern to be put on that, or maybe another Lego sphere. on the whole, it sounds like a fun project to be collaborated in.

to fix problems i created when building you have different sized liftarms

Do you know the part number of the plastic ones or any sets they belong to? Maybe they are from the expert builders set(s) Maybe they was none from the start that could be sold.

Hi, Where can I buy these two bricks: http://www.bricklink...asp?P=liftarm02 http://www.bricklink...asp?P=liftarm04 And what sets are they from?