SNIPE

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Hi Can somebody give me some inspiration on a steering solution for this project: It is 5x9 holes including the body but the body can have bits taken out if the space is needed just as long as it does not stick out very much (maybe like by 0.5L max (the thickness of a think lift arm or 'half' bush') Note that the two center axles that stick out are for the drive-shafts to hook up to by universal joints or something like that., maybe replace the drive shaft and the center axle with a longer axle, they go to the differential as shown in the model and LXF file. The wheels can turn when steering for over 65 degrees so I need the steering rack and arms to be able to do this (it will do it anyway if the steering rack is long enough, the gear on the steering rack is the right size and if the steering arms are a certain length that fits best without towing the wheels in or out or without being slack Note that where the 4L axles with stops are, they stick out a little bit, this is for the end hole of the '57515' wishbones, there is a 'x873cx1'/'x873c01' spindle with steering arm ball joints onnected to the wishbones. ***Here*** is the model, I am ok if the width goes over the 9 hole mark, as long as it does not go over 5 holes much like I said.

it s supported by the other gears instead of a pin, like the bearing ball inside of a bearing ring, maybe it is not load but structural support anyway I just like it that way as it looks cool when it spins

The 24 tooth bevel gear wont fit in and I don't want to use the other diff type because it is too tall and does not allow for 4 internal pinion gears, both the other ones have 28 teeth which I think is too tell for the technic rectangular mount rings for the several other parts. I have an idea from laix as well as my own idea I have put in, I think I might use both the ideas at in the model and on both sides of the diff for support and to take strain from if there was only 1 gear idea.

Hi, the gear ratio thing does not really apply as the gears are alighted at a right angle and the spacing tool does not show all of the gears configurations as well as not showing offset hole arrangements

Is there a gear that is the size so it reches the teeth of the rear diff at a 90 degree angle There is a few duplo technic gears that might be te right size but the teeth count might still be different, like the lego samsonite ones are. Maybe it is a case of using two gears so the one going to the diff gear is offset enough. Here is the model, the space inside is not great but the rear diff cannot be moved over more on one side. Not all parts are in LDD but ill be making this in real life when the idea is designed out. http://www.brickshelf.com/gallery/finneykris/mfr/rollcage_car1-4-12.lxf

Hi My guess is you would get about an inch at the most of air, lego is far too heavy and all these bricks add up, unlike aluminum for example, secondly the lego springs are not strong enough. I have seen a lego hovercraft, this would be good on sand but it cannot jump.

Hi, I am currently working on a project of mine - a car that has wheels bigger than the body so it is able to drive upside down. The suspension is fine, so is the diff, the steering, the gearbox, the center diff (not sure if I should scrap it due to lack of space and the gearbox can do what it does anyhow.) Now, I decided to use one motor to drive the wheels but the power can be split as well as cut off so it becomes only front or rear wheel drive, however for the gearbox I need two motors and I still have to put a motor in for the steering. Here is a screen shot of the current layout though it can be changed as long as it does not get bulky and go over the sides and top much. The sides in the middle of the car are about 17 holes wide. but then it goes to about 13 holes wide where the wheels are, there is an old model of the bodywork in the image and .LXF file. I was thinking about using the tiny red 9v micro - motors for the gearbox as im not that bothered about it changing gear in a split second, and you cannot break as there is no rev limiter to hit or anything. The thing that is pushed forward or backward by the first micro motor is the blue barrel with tiny teeth on it, the other motor moves the selector fork to anther one of those barrels, when the barrel is pushed forward or backward it meshes with an axle and even with another blue barrel since they have teeth. The car can be no taller than 6 or 7 holes (on a technic stud-less beam) I dont need to worry so much about the centre diff just now so I have put it aside in the LXF file, the hardest part is making that gear shifter mechanism (including the motors for that) http://www.brickshel...ris/mfr/pit.lxf http://img28.imagesh...120325at173.png http://img842.images...120325at173.png http://img69.imagesh...120325at173.png http://img849.images...120325at173.png http://img210.images...120325at173.png

I Like that cable idea and ill try it with my latest innovation.

So what is the timing wheel used with?

Does the model have a light beam?

Hi, On most models that use this, it is purley for aesthetics so that it looks like its meant to be something in real life however im not so sure about the lego 8479 bar code truck, it is right down in the body of it where the other moving parts are. can somebody tell me what is it for?

NEWS! I got my storage cabinets today, they are 5 by 6 drawers, I got 5 of them, two of them have two colums of 4 drawers , and so the middle column is 6 drawers. It works great as they have enough dividers They were like £8 each so i'm happy with this. Now to get rich(er) and buy more lego!

I only sort main system bricks such 3001, 3002, 3003, 3006, 3007, 2456 by color, stuff like technic bricks and other system bricks and other themes don't get sorted by color by by the different parts will be using four 5x6 drawer cabinets I have 2 already and few other things like flat cases with lids and big storage boxes. The draw sizes differ from each, some have rows of five draws, some have one long raw that is the width of five some have three or four slightly wider drawers. im thinking of getting two of these, they are £18.56 each http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/offer-listing/B000Y8DSZM/ref=dp_olp_new?ie=UTF8&condition=new i was going to get 4 four of these but i think the above offer is better. (these are £16.88 each: http://www.amazon.co.uk/Draper-89470-30-Drawer-Storage-Cabinet/dp/B000PJDUEY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1330022215&sr=8-1

I bought the unimog through my money. My mam does not like me putting credit card details int websites. I cant buy any more lego at the minute because I have to save up for university

Read my post again. i cant practise

I have two boxes that have 6 rows of 5 of draws, I have another one that has 5 rows of 4 draws, I have a flat box with a lid and a lift out tray , etc etc etc im getting 4 boxes that have like 5 or 6 rows of 7 draws, maybe THEN id be allowed.

Not all the parts but as many as you want to remember, if you were trying to explain how something is built but you didn't have an image or LDD file this can be a good way it is very important if you are using LDview/LDraw because you have to type an instruction for the program to load a certain brick, and in that you have to know the brick name you listed so you don't want to have to be checking bricklink for each brick you want to add in, , I'm fed up of having to check to see which bricks i am coding with. If I'm posting on here, I don't need to always put an image of the brick (because I cant remember the part) , if i learned them id just be able to put the part number here.

i like having all the lego in one box made from sets but no!! according to my dad 'the parts are only for that model' I cant even mod my lego technic unimog u400 i cant even dissasemble a newly bought model once ive built it sure, i have two big boxes of older random bricksmostly frol older technic sets but then im lacking in stuff like liftarms and steerinf components. how do I get good at building mocs??

Hi, Here is a test: How many Lego part numbers can you remember off by heart? (I mean by: what they look like/a good name for one AND the part number) (you can use any theme, the important thing is remembering) I ask because I'm terrible but I'm trying to learn a few of them to start with. and it can help, instead of having to explain each feature of a brick hoping we will know what we mean. it is also quicker and avoids tripping up.

Download imageshack uploader (it's a tool) it lets you upload several images to the imageshack server then it generates a list of urls for each image You can resize all at the same time or you can resize them manually by choosing. note that the url type is important and only one works from what ive seen You then have to copy the urls and remove the tags then paste the url into the image tool of the forum, repeat this for each URL you want to paste.

nah because its for gears so it has to be either a cross hole or a pin/pipe that fits in the gear but two sides have to have a cross axle attached to it as it is for a differential. the rest of the gears can have a small axle or a pin/pipe.

There is still limitations with lego since we are not making out out specical bricks from scratch I have managed to find an assembly I made in LDD but I dont know if it will work, it is a 1x1 brick that has 4 studs on every side that have a small hole in each of them, this is fine for one of the small axles as that does not need to spin as the hole in the gear is not being meshed on that however the other axle needs to spni with the gear as that goes to the wheels. I dont think the tiny holes in the bricks allow the axle to spin very freely.

Hi, The peg hole is actually for an axle but onlt 0.5L of each of the 2L axles are put into each side of the brick. Since there is probably no such brick id say this project is killed.

Hi, Does anybody know of any Lego bricks that are 2x2 studs in width and lengh, and also have a 'peg hole' on each side?. I've had a snoop around LDD and Bricklink, but can't see any, however, i'm sure i've seen one before.