SNIPE

We have 1x3 tiles, Id like to see a better range of axles, 1L, 11L, 13 l,14 L ,15L I want to see ths but with a male axle connector at the end instead of a female one (it is just an axle which is 1L) Id want to see the same again but with only one pin not two together in both male and female type. Then I want this to have another two holes underneath: Then I want one of these but with only one offset hole and one foot for an axle: I want one of these but with only half of the axle bit as if it was a thin liftarm (much like the part number '44'): Also have another with the pin part being halved instead. I want one of these but I want an axle hole in the middle and two pinholes where the axle holes are in the brick on the left.

Tiles without the stupid recess around the bottomm edge which spoils your creations they used to make them without this recess before The Williams f1 care tires and rims would be nice too.

I would make sure that all of the bricks are connected properly and fully. If it still does it then maybe you made a mistake building it which was minor, check the image in the instructions very carefully.

No, I don't think gearboxes should be replaced but rethought of, for example: I have a gearbox that moves the shifter barrel automatically however rather than using the 12 tooth gears with a clutch inside in which the shifter barrel meshes it meshes the main gears axle hole with the frictionless axle hole of the clutch barrel with the help of a motor. The clutch barrel still has fine teeth but the barrel is only 2 studs wide unlike the "old" gearboxes which use the 12 tooth gears with clutch indie, which is about 4 studs wide. The second motor in the automatic shifter moves the shifting claw over a certain barrel. For more technical aspects, the gearbox can have a program created by the user in robotC or something like that to suit his needs such as when 'gear E' changes, what the final gear ratio is, etc. So it covers a range of lego fans, the only hard part is, the gears, even the internal ones as part of the clutch barrel brick have to be aligned to the right teeth so that the axle on one column is not at a different rotated axle, which will cause the shifter barrel to jam up. This is not so big of gearbox, it is around 8x6 studs. and is not very high either. A creation with a motor is not the same as one with a gearbox, a motor does not have variable output torque like the different gears of a gearbox.

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This MOC is so professional it looks like an official lego set/model. Thinking a TVR speed 12 style body in a dark colour would look nice.

I want this to look realistic so I need a curve, a T shape road would be a 'junction'. I'm working on curved road for now.

Happy birthday, I will sign up to your website, It should help me get ideas to build MOCs or to fix problems.

Hi I am currently building a city using mostly SNOT, but with large buildings since SNOT can be very strong. I was wondering how I could get the middle road line to curve as I need corners on my road. Here I have a road piece to show you how it is built and the LDD file. (Note that the actual road of the model has plates on their side, including the road lines.) Any help would be appreciated, I will then change the pavement and the dotted lines to match the center line. When I tried, it Just looked like a line which went diagonally across to the pavement .

Thanks for the reply, I was wondering about the different types of tention too and as you pointed out, I don't want to use loads of bricks just for each support in the girder, here are some strength test videos I carried out , they is a different design for each video, yes it is an odd way to test them but they were incredibly strong for lego, it felt kind of 'weird' standing on a hollow lego box (the part I was standing on was only 2 studs thick). The designs have mostly 2x4 bricks and some 2x8 bricks too. Which dimensions do you think the girder should be?, the current ones are regtangular and are 10x12 bricks (8x10 diameter hole as the wall is 2 studs thick all the way round)

The box and instruction backround picture(s) of the model, stuff like a warehouse, factory or huge garage/assembly line, I belive a range of current models had a certain backround 'theme', it was mostly lego technic for me but I liked the UFO/space stuff as well as cybermasters and some of the really old models which had a yellow and reddish brown theme. I renember going into fenwicks and seeing walls of lego sets, I renember my first sets, they were: a pack of three 6x12 bricks, an assorted parts set with two green baseplates which slid over as the box lid, and the assorted box of lego that had the lid with the huge novelty studs on them, ah good memories.

Hi, I am busy designing a 1m cubed box that is made of lego girders, it does not have walls, floor or a roof yet. I always thought that the X or 'triangle' shape girder pattern was strongest, (like this) - However in lego you cannot bind the bars of one cross to the centre, each bar would have to be behind one anothe. The first design I created could support 112 ibs aprox and it was the one at the front in the below image. Here are the 4 designs , I think the two at the front of the image are the most likely but I only need one type of girder so far. LDD File here: http://www.brickshel...mfr/girders.lxf

Nice idea by turning the 4 tressle truck upside down, currentlybim building a roof but the slopes are all on their side as having them normal: A Goes too steep which spoils the look. B Would not fit as well because the building is built where every brick is on its side and is built up and up that way. C Would not be strong enough as the load would be on the top and its own weight will collapse it This is a hollow roof meaning it has a loft inside of it, and this project is a scaled down test, it would be great to have a human size house that does not need non lego support

Id say about 60% of the types of brick have LEGO stamped on (I don't mean every brick of every type) A lot of my parts dont have lego on, some have no markings at all but are lego.

Sure, it's nstural for any lego fan, i get excited whens new part comes out tooand when a new LDD update comes out.

Lego make ramps from the sports theme, for the minifig skateboard, I think you could put a double ended brick where there is a clutch for studs to go into on both sides which means you can put the ramps top to top to make a semicircle, so this again but complete the other half of the circle if they is no double sided clutch use a technic lift-arm (not the thin type, the 1L type which is about as thick as a lego 3005 brick and put the studs in the holes, it locks tight so it will be strong. on the roof of the MOC (not mine by the way) you can see two white ramps, it is those.

or try this sicne you want the normal stick pattern: Now the black clutch barrels are three position, allowing you to change to another barrel when the gear lever is in the middle position, I took the barrels off so can see the axles they would still be there. The gearbox in the 8448 s studded but you can put studless tiles on it and it is only the interior part where you might see studs unless you add tiles.

Check out the transmission that the lego 8448 supercar uses :). Dont use the reverse or 5th gear in your gearbox unlike the one in the 8448, this will mean using two red shifters only as requested. Just put the gearbox motor in reverse it is quick and takes up no space at all. I did not understand the following: I'm guessing you meant?: The technic connector pegs, there some either side connect it to the chassis which needs to have a 9L wide gap min (9 holes worth) for the transmission (assuming it is a 'PiT12-somethingsomething') to sit. There would then be another higher up support for the gear stick to move around but not come apart. If you have the some PiT10 model then the gap needs to be 8 holes wide. For reference: technic studded bricks with the holes in them are 1L, so are some gears,wheels, liftarms etc

I would suggest a 9v motor because they are small yst fast but they are not really compatible with PF, I don't know if you like using non lego stuff, I don't but if you do you can get PF to 9v converters. If you don't then I would have a gear reduction using a 24 tooth gear on the steering axle meshed with a 8 tooth gear on the motor axle. the motor for your transmission with be back to back with the steering motor. As for the gearbox the best bet would be to use this: It can have several 'gears' up to 8 (I think) so if you want 4 years then you could take some off to make it less wide, this is very small for a gearbox and has many features. Note that next to the 14 tooth gears there is an axle with no gear on it, this is because you need two of these on each blank axle: http://img.bricklink.com/P/9/4143.gif The shift pattern for the wider gearbox is: 1-4-5-8 | | | | 2-3-6-7 The '-' and '|' mean bi-directional stick-shift movement, there is no neutral unless you take off a gear from the axle or something like that, there is no inbetween position for neutural between any of the above gear numbers as a result. the pattern is like that beuse the axles of the gearbox are close together, if you don't want it like that, move the axles out by 0.5 L, this will let you have a normal sticking pattern but it means it takes longer to move from gear to gear. You just have to find a shift lever that works with the black clutches, I would use something like a technic 2 cross hole lever thin. If you want the white clutch gear on just give me a shout, there is a tiny gear for high traction which improves grip and acceleration from a stationary joint too but I don't know if you want those. As for reverse you use the H bridge in the motor and it is fast at switching and takes up no space in the model. The long axles are the input and output shafts, here is another version which is less wide but has less features and has around 4 or 5 'gears' http://i42.tinypic.com/66gj0m.png Again put the gears I showed you on these blank axles too. For the tutorial on setting up the gear synchronizations so that the lever does not jam or snag, or on using it as an automatic transmission and on the other features email me or for the LXF file for the less wide version , also email me This series of gearboxes (PiT 12, 10 or 6) work by having different combinations of the clutches meshed which select the larger main gears to spin, not spin or float. file here: PiT-12.lxf

I wish LEGO would make a range that uses technic and system but first I wish they would make some more bricks, then this new theme can be super complciated and have like 2000+ bricks, it would maybe be called something like LEGO masters or something

hi, How can I connect some track pieces to the flatter track but have these ones slope up?

but then the body will be too tall for my wheels these wheels are the best in my opinion for this model (ones off the williams F1 car as well as the tires) the gaps on the side is for the suspention boxes, and the wishbones wheels tires and spindle and disks are not on yet as they are not in LDD. I admit the diff setup is a bit wooly but it could work in real life we never know, if it does not then Id have to change the diff. All you do is let go of the throttle button on the remote while it flips over then put it in revere by moving the throttle lever backwards. the gearbox is he best thing about this model.

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Hi Can somebody give me some inspiration on a steering solution for this project: It is 5x9 holes including the body but the body can have bits taken out if the space is needed just as long as it does not stick out very much (maybe like by 0.5L max (the thickness of a think lift arm or 'half' bush') Note that the two center axles that stick out are for the drive-shafts to hook up to by universal joints or something like that., maybe replace the drive shaft and the center axle with a longer axle, they go to the differential as shown in the model and LXF file. The wheels can turn when steering for over 65 degrees so I need the steering rack and arms to be able to do this (it will do it anyway if the steering rack is long enough, the gear on the steering rack is the right size and if the steering arms are a certain length that fits best without towing the wheels in or out or without being slack Note that where the 4L axles with stops are, they stick out a little bit, this is for the end hole of the '57515' wishbones, there is a 'x873cx1'/'x873c01' spindle with steering arm ball joints onnected to the wishbones. ***Here*** is the model, I am ok if the width goes over the 9 hole mark, as long as it does not go over 5 holes much like I said.

it s supported by the other gears instead of a pin, like the bearing ball inside of a bearing ring, maybe it is not load but structural support anyway I just like it that way as it looks cool when it spins