SNIPE

Probably 42128 because its big but not huge like the 42082 for example but is packed with functions. Keep in mind that im not even a big pneumatics fan, I only used pneumatic components once in a humanoid hand mechanism at 1:1 scale because any other way of actuating the fingers was too big. The set also reminds me of set 8462 which I wanted SO BADLY as a kid but didn't get it, that set was possibly the coolest thing I've ever seen and it looked massive on the product catalogue (nut everything looks bigger when you're a kid)

Just wait until i get rid of the color vomit with black parts! (including rare/lagacy black parts)

well, they sort of did thought it was a little underwhelming, you could make a set out of 2 others sets: https://youtu.be/ULWuYWFPTVc

Yeah, I was thinking radial engine too, but just about any type of engine is possible with these new cams and cranks (as long as you're ok with potentially adding more than one drive shaft)

Yes, Lego's naming scheme is retarded, it makes finding parts in ldcad/pick a brick a nightmare.

This is my dream 42145 version: 40L blades from 10327 dune orthocopter 1 small angular motor for winch 1 small angular motor for landing gear 1 small angular motor for blade collective pitch control 1 small angular motor for blade cyclic pitch control 1 buggy motor for blades and engines. PF LEDs New gearbox parts for the 2 speed gearbox. and function selector gearboxes Powered via buwizz 3.0 with an C+ to PF adapter cable for one of the motors The gearbox may have to go but since I like it I wanna try to keep it, same for the levers for controlling the blades. Therefore you can use it as a manual set still , or you can operate it electronically. Not pictured above but, also these small mods + what others on EB have came up with: It also has manual swivel control (L/R) while hiding the otherwise exposed axle for the rear blades. I got the front wheel to pivot but couldn't find an easy way to fit a spring in so I scrapped that :( (it was almost impossible to have "suspension", landing gear, and front wheel steering).

nice to see new engine parts, I wonder if the crank ends fit into finger joints as well as over the new cam piece.

new / interesting

Yup, 2 pullback motors, new / interesting parts / recolors are: New-ish oin blocks (with 2 pins) in black just like in the Dune Orthocopter. Orange 3x7 panels New thinner tapered panels Orange tapered "seat panels" Orange Bionicle Wing Small Yellow dogbone connector

I like it!.

Sounds good to me. 👍

The mic goes all the way into the hollow stud (i.e barhole) Yes, the short version is mandatory because if you use the long version it is too long to fit the drive ring in.

They typically waste space, so I try to stick to vertical and horizontal connections. Bodywork Is a different matter I guess.

So, when I make a technic MOC, I try to use axles without stops, or axles with stops as long as the stops are not blocked off, I also use 3L pins with end stop rather than the usual 3L pin with friction/without friction, I also try to use as many of the connectors which have bush style end(s) as well as obvioustly use 1 full bush instead of 1 half bushes. This is because gears can fit into the tiny groove on full bushes/bush style connectors. I also avoid 0.5L parts unless they are doubled up to make them an integer unit. I also avoid diagonal connections and diagonal beams/other such parts. 2L pins are a problem because they can't be pushed out however there is a way, the bushings from 2L hinge plates (though these are 90's parts and are expensive in bulk) Just sanding down 2L pins so that they dont have the stop ring in the middle isn't a good idea because they can get mixed up with un-cut pins, and also they are way weaker than using the bushes from the 2L hinge plates. I also like to start from the ground up, so if its say a car, you build the axles first, decide on the wheelbase and trackwidth, then put the chassis "floor" in (but keep that very simple for now, dont overload it with structural parts) because theres a lot of stuff to be added later. Then you add the gearbox , paddle shifter, D-N-R selector, hook up the 2 axles if its 4WD, hook up the steering if its 4 wheel steering, and hook up the ride height adjustment (if it has adjustable ride height on both axles) Of course, you might need to design the gearbox to have a passthru for a driveshaft, steering shaft, and optionally, a centre differential may go under or inside of the gearbox. I'm terrible at making gearboxes so I just use an existing design and modify that. I also use LegoScript which is a tool that can figure out how and where to reduce the parts count, though its a very basic tool currently so most stuff I just know from memory, to get the parts count down. I don't care much for structural atability until much later because its easy to pack in connectors and beams once you've got all the functions in, but its much harder to do the opposite. (add lots of structural parts which get in the way of the functional stuff. You can also use LDCAD to help though I'm trying not to use it as much because it takes what would be built in minutes, hours and hours and you can't test structural stabiity or mechanical reliability in LDCAD. Heck LDCAD doesnt even care about parts collision (which is OK anyhow for a good reason) but that can be a problem when it comes to the real build not fitting together. One thing to note that LEGO is not a cheap hobby also, so Im fine with buying brand new expensive parts, or rare recolors/rare parts/discontinued parts, though engineering is about cost saving in general I don't think of it with LEGO because LEGO is about freedom to make what you want, I would never engineer a real life tractor because it would bankrupt me several times over, but with LEGO you dont need to worry about that. Well, those are my 2 cents, hope it was of some insight.

Its a minifig utensil microphone https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=90370#T=C Yes, the two parts share the same pinhole

The current connector is quite small and the port could be either countersunk into the motor, or flush with the motor. No internal gearing, just raise the voltage more that comes from the technic hub. Also, you could I suppose, make the rotor and gear one piece, you would put the windings on the gear/rotor hybrid part, but its still fiddly to get the planetary hubs built in. These gears are tiny anhow so it wouldnt matter that much to increase the torque, only the speed.

It allows the drive ring to be on the same plane as the rotary shifter rathern than 1L higher/lower like with the orange shifter fork from the yamaha motorcycle.

One thing I found that works is this: The white plate round with handle on underside is slightly too short, but because the stud goes into a pinhole its hard for the driving ring to slip out of place anyway. Note that you must use this part and not this one

all lego motors should be tube shaped , but have the pinholes extruded so that they are flush with beams,etc that go against the pinholes , This allows for the teeth from gears to be closer to the motor, where as if the motor were square, the teeth would catch more likely. They should also have the port on the motor as well as on the hub so we can choose different cable lengths instead of “taking some slack/excess out" by doing complex routing around the model. They should also have an output axle hole on both sides (not that hard to do) so that we dont have to route external axles with gears to the back of the motor. They should of course still be able to work either as a stepper motor, or as continuous rotation via programming.

Finally, someone made a gearbox using these new parts. Now I wonder who will make an 8+N+R gearbox with internal centre differential! :P

Oh WOW!. this is amazing

Things the CADA alfa romeo f1 does better: Printed tires Narrower front tires compared to the rear Reinforced differential 4 shocks on rear not 2 Disc brake wheel hubs 226 more pices Printed wheel covers Will probably be cheaper No color vomit (i.e mostly black internal parts) Optional Motorizatiom The cada version also doesn't have: Reinforced CV joints Reinforced wheel hubs (from 42160) A gearbox A flappy paddle shifteR Removable nose Fake electric motor (as far as I can tell) What's even more interesting is that the Buwizz channel on youtube added a bu-wizz 3.0 and 2 buwizz motors while retaining the cockpit space, keeping the engine, steering, suspention, etc and yet there was still space under the engine for a gearbox, and also this MOC has a working flappy paddle shifter, 8 speec gearbox, engine, steering, diff, and it uses 4 of the shocks from set 42143! IN BOUND!

I'm not sure how you can have a contest, without having judges.