FreeBee

Great build! You really captured the felling and looks of the original. I like how you made it. There are a phew small things: I am missing the "cowcatcher" I don't like striping done with stickers. I like it better when it's a brickbuild solution. Is there a horn in front of the cab of the real one? And maybe yellow and red dots on the "trainbase" It's your train so don't take above list as negative. Grtz Freebee

Yeah, these Panamera's are very feul efficient. And about the customizing: How many studs do you have on your engine? Maybe you can use This Engine

Lol, everything is automated except the train. But I like it. Would it be what I want? No, not yet. - I am driving 9v. So I would like to see less wires. - It should be possible to use the current from the track to control/charge the different elements. - And communicate by wifi or something else. These are just my thoughts.

Wow great thanx.

Back in the days of the start of ldd I made a lot of models. I believe it was version 2 or 3. But now i cant open them in the latest version of ldd. Or they open empty. Is there a solution for this? Or does anyone have a old version of version 2 or 3 of ldd?

I couldn't let it go. The sixteen connections on the underside won't work. I see Maybe it's possible to put (during printing) Part 4073 Plate, Round 1 x 1 Straight Side on either side of the underside.

Bummer

I would say: loose the tile. Just a monorail rail would do the job fine. Take 12v rails as example for the straights and curves. At the bottom you'll have 16 places to connect the rail. Connect it to a jumper plate and place it anywhere. It would have even more potential I think. I hope you get my point.

Nice to see the birth of your layout. Here are some ideas which could be helpfull: - Give the trains different priority levels: this will solve two trains occupiing the same block (s). - U could randomize the priority. Good luck and have fun.

Hi all, I am rebuilding all my sets to see if they are complete. Today i rebuild set 357 firestation. I do this with the help of bricklink to find all the correct pieces. Bricklink stated that there are 4 4-long en 1-wide bricks with a legoland engraving in the set. 1 in white and 3 in red. I know where the white one belongs in the set. But where do the red ones go? I can't figure it out.

I want to use the flex track for my 9v layout. I want to make blocks with them. Does anyone know if a 9v train will pass them? So from 9v rails over the flex t9v rails.

Pictures http://www.gokin.it/2016/07/09/foto-ufficiali-lego-71040-disney-world-cinderella-castle/

In reply off: Adding pieces into the middle of the orange segment and the red segment will throw off the alignment, according to the webpage I've linked twice so far (if you do this, add track segments in multiples of 12 only!). If you add a piece to the middle the orange segment you can make it fit by adding a piece between yello and dark bleu. If you add one to the red section, add a piece after the first orange (counted fro the ligth green) It doesn't have to be multiples of twelve.

about 7 bij 10 baseplates so approx.175 cm x 250 cm

Even Smaller

I'm also thinking of removing the back of my modulars. Just haven't found the time to do it. I've got the following reasons for it: - Easier to show of the great interior of the buildings. - Easier to put ledlights in. - Easier for creating streetscenes. Thats why i will place the sidewalks on normal streetbaseplates (baseplate+plate+tiles) and the buildings on 16x16 and 16x32 baseplates (correct height for the sidewalks by tile or plates). The only difficulty will be serious modding for the corner buildings to fit them on a 16x32 baseplate. Brick-On ps the lifted sidewalks will also make it easier to put lights in the the streetlights.

Maybe this is a solution

How big do you want them? Is this more to your liking? http://www.brickfactory.info/scans/03000/3225/001.jpg

Heres a link to a movie where i test having some trains driving up and down a slope. They all have only 1 motor. The slopes are built with 16 pieces of straight and curved track. If u keep the trains light enough they will make it up the slopes but the heavier ones (like the metroliner) won't make it on one motor. So the options are: - Make you trains very light - Use multiple motors - Or lengten the slopes Gr FreeBee

+ It was yellow. + It was hand-pushed. + It was a diesel train. + It looked a bit like a Crocodile-train. - If I am not mistaken it came with only one minifig wearing a hardhat. Sounds like this one

It's a shame we don't have them in europe. Wish i could download a pdf-file somewere. Also from the older ones.

I'll take my hat off and give a standing ovation !!! Thanks L@go's, Missouri, Frogstudio and Typo . Oops ... and Stu83

You make me smile with all those great work of you. Thanx Alban. I also have a question: Can I use BB to make picture of every bbm-file in a directory. Or maybe a quick-save (like i press F7 and it save a jpg with the bbm-filename).

I changed the post. Hope it's clearer now. I was just figuring out for myself what the costs are per 16 stud segment. only for fun.

I was just figuring out what for myself but thought why not share it: So we get: Grey: ME900-2G Metal Rails "Double" - Gray (Box) for $9.99 ME900.5G Metal Rails "Half" - Gray (PolyBag) for $6.99 ME900G Metal Rails - Gray (Box) for $19.99 ME900G-BAG Metal Rails - Gray (PolyBag) for $4.99 and Brown ME900-2B Metal Rails "Double" - Brown (Box) for $9.99 ME900.5B Metal Rails "Half" - Brown (PolyBag) for $6.99 ME900B Metal Rails - Brown (Box) for $19.99 ME900B-BAG Metal Rails - Brown (PolyBag) for $4.99 In length equals to: ME900-2...... ME900.5...... ME900........ ME900-BAG.... So calcuted back it cost per 16 stud length: ME900-2....2 x 32 studs = $2.50 (without sleepers) ME900.5....4 x 8 studs = $3.50 (with 8 sleepers) ME900......6 x 16 studs = $3.33 (with 18 sleepers) ME900-BAG..2 x 16 studs = $2.50 (without sleepers) Nice .....