AndyCW

I'd suggest driving it and improving the parts that break. Expect breakage. Lots of breakage. One thing, that no one else has mentioned is that the cv joints will strip, use this part to correct

That looks much more robust. I'm not sure you need four lower links though. Two upper and two lower are plenty to locate the axle provided they are 'triangulated'. Keep at it. Have you seen Attika's truck with the planetary hubs?

By rotating the links and ball joints 90 degrees, trapping them can be done without compromising the ground clearance. However, it will make things wider and mandate a rebuild. Eagerly awaiting a video of the performance and carnage.

This thing looks awesome and will give you a lot of enjoyment. Having built many similar vehicles, I can give you a couple of heads up on what to expect as you test and develop. The links will pop off of the ball joints unless you 'trap' the link and even then it will still happen a little. During suspension droop, the springs will separate from the chassis. They only appear to be connected via the friction of the 3l axle into the top of the spring. Incorporate the side mount on the spring as a retainer and not as a stressed item. You will overheat the motors. My buggies with 4x 5292 and 107mm tires overheat the motors on anything less than 4:1 overall from the slow output, but I run 3 cell Lipo and with lower voltage, you may have some success.

This is awesome. So many people show how they built something, but not how it works.

I built something that has a very similar axle layout. Check it out for ideas on how to connect to the chassis.

There are ~11 tires that fit your requirements from RC4WD alone. ttps://rc4wd.com/go/rc4wd-tire-finder/ Happy shopping

You might want to work up to those tires incrementally. Each step will show you what may be required for the next. Envision fitting 94mm tires first, this will show you some of the difficulties in fitting 107mm ones. It isn't just about the tires, it also is about having room for steering and those portal hubs are going to multiply the required amount of room. Alternatively, you could remove the body from the Landrover, install the desired tires, then see what can be parts of the body can be reinstalled. Those fender flares definitely will not fit unless you lift the vehicle a great amount.

'Unrestricted' may have been hyperbole. The motors have not been altered. The motor controller can sustain 12 amps indefinitely and can burst to 24 amps. I have not had any problems with the controller thermally limiting the motors or the motors thermally limiting themselves. Some potential explanations for why the motors are not thermally limiting themselves: motors exposed to airflow, not buried inside of the MOC ambient temperatures low 1.8 gear ratio off of slow output low weight lack of traction

I'm using a non-lego solution. https://www.dimensionengineering.com/products/sabertooth2x12rc It is inside of the orange 3d printed box in the center of the chassis. It is in turn connected to a 2 channel 2.4ghz radio controller.

During one of the test runs, before we got out the camera, the front right hand shock mount sheared right off the spring body. This is why the springs are mounted by the vertical central cross axle hole. Looking closely, in some of the pictures, the damage to that spring is visible. I didn't have another spring easily available to replace. I think my next creation is going to be another rock bouncer with the same power, but less weight.

Hello All, It has been ages since I shared something on here, even though I visit daily to see everyone else's builds. However, 'recent events' have given me more time to build. I haven't been idle these last couple of years, but nothing I made rose to the level of sharing. The following buggy has four unrestricted 5292 motors, at 12.6 volts, going to the rear wheels and only weighs 1400 g. This makes it hard to handle for the inexperienced driver. The rubber bands on the rear control arms keep the ball sockets from coming apart. The lower arms are different from the upper ones due to the change in position of the joints on the swing arm through the suspension cycle. This also creates a rather nice camber curve. I also discovered a weakness in the stiff springs. The upper mount will shear off of the side of the shock body if it is used. Many of my shocks have stress fractures there. I've got to clean the thing up now, it is covered in mud. I wonder who did that. Question, concerns, comments, or relevant war stories? v/r Andy

I like the stopper pin on the battery box switch

I'd hazarda guess that the next couple of months are going to be productive from MOCing perspective. This seems like an ideal candidate to try to stuff buggy motors into.

Reminds me of an old rusty forestry service truck. The US Army used these too and they can be found fairly cheaply at military auctions. An underbelly shot would be appreciated.

Looks like you could use the 9l links for steering and build control arms of the same length. https://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=32293#T=C

Great start. For your next revision, try moving the steering pivot closer to the center of the wheel and you can keep the same track width by making the control arms longer. This will give you more suspension travel and easier steering. The bodywork looks fine and your economy of build is impressive.

Just realized I never shared the following images with the community. These are the front and rear axles of one of my more recent rock bouncers. As well as some of the installation images. https://imgur.com/a/fgnDX

Check this out. It's some pictures of my last functional crawler. There may be some inspiration in there. https://imgur.com/a/fgnDX

Another option, would be to make a heavy flywheel. Use the motors to spool up the flywheel(s) and the use a trigger mechanism to nudge the aircraft into the launcher. This way you are not using the torque of the motors to accelerate the plane, but rather the inertia of the flywheel.

The servo will just stall. There are videos on YouTube demonstrating the servo's characteristics

Get on bricklink and just get the parts you need rather than buying a whole set for a couple of parts. The geometry of the second rack, looks better. The challenge we be making it structurally sound. Alternatively; the older hubs and arms might make things simpler. Worth a look.

The breaking gears in the differential and shattered universal joints can be partially alleviated by using portal hubs. Many of the official sets have used this approach

That is certainly a good start. Mounting the spring to the lower control arm, without a link between the lower and upper control arms, will result in the springs pushing the lower ball joint from the wheel hub out of the control arm. The servo turns 90 degrees each direction, with a 12t pinion the gear that goes best with that rack, will result in a rack that moves 1 stud side to side. The wheel hubs you have cannot support that level of steering lock. If you are going to stick with those wheel hubs, try using an 8t pinion gear and rebuild the rack to support. Still not ideal, but far better.

Welcome back. The axle collection thread might be of some use.