Jump to content

Attika

Eurobricks Citizen
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    391

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by Attika

  1. Attika
    It's ended up to be a remarkable build. Hats off. I'm looking forward to build it.
  2. Attika
    It is small, hats off. Converting into studless seems tricky . 1/3 stud! , I'll thinker on it. Worth it.
  3. Attika
    With all due respect actually it does. There is a 2 stud long "telescopic" travel on the top of the forks on the 9L axles, therefore the handlebar is independent from the forks. It is right in the level of the mudguard, easy to miss on the pics.
  4. Attika
    And it is done. DCC. Three letters. The car industry is hunting for these things.
  5. Attika
    Great suspension system, that caster angle just warming my heart trough
  6. Attika
    We have been here before (or above). In this setup it is easy to spectate, not covered by beams yet performs well in a non motorized model. The same reason it is in all the colors of a parrott: Demonstrating on video. I made a terrible picture quickly to show it how it is built in my case. The 16t gear is supported from both side. (Technically that axle drives the dummie engine). As I was writing above, if it is built in there must be a chassis anyway. Leave my red clutch gear alone
  7. Attika
    Yep, that is what I wanted you to discover. I think this way was more entertaining than if I just told you... For that you need two "layers" of gears just as it is done in your version. My goal was to minimize the size. Beside that the chassis I built it for has the "flexibility" to handle this odd position as the dummie engine is connected to the gearbox by a pair of uni joints. Later maybe in another built if it requires I'll change that front part.
  8. Attika
    In the non motorized model there isn't any sign of that. In first gear, when the dummie engine's rev is the highest it is runing it smoothly.
  9. Attika
    So, one issue the connectors and the gear on pin. When I buld a car the chassis itself designed to be the frame of the gearbox, so put it this way this is a self sustaining frame for demonstration purposes. In this form it is capable to be built in a 1:10 scale non motorised model and perform without problem. If I was to put an XL motor on it and pull the furniture around I build a frame out of studded technic parts. (in fact I did ) For me a gearbox means the layout of the gears, frame is like outfit: up to the occasion. Gear on the pin is the same thing. Price of the short length is some width no dubt, but the seats will be in the level of the ball joint of the lever, so the seats ar above the gears. It is a pickup truck, so kinda reasonable. And of course please look at the frame as an interchangeable thing.
  10. Attika
    I'd appreciate a feedback. Thank you in advance. I quickly built yours by the video. If I can hold and roll it around gives me a better feeling and understanding. The main problem I had is to change mine to the 1-3, 2-4 sequence. Now having both on my desk helped me understand something rather funny. Instead of revealing it now I give you a housework: How would you turn yours into manual (1-2, 3-4 sequence)? Beside that I have to confess, I didn't really follow anything lately, but having a deeper look now this supercar is impressing.
  11. Attika
    Thanks. It's gonna be a small scale pickup truck. I share your feeling about half studs, but it is a trade off on the size market... By the way I'm glad you remembered and the way you treat the 8880 evo the other day. Thanks. But back to the gearbox: you have any idea how turn this one into sequential? The symmetric structure doesn't help, does it?
  12. Attika
    Thank you for the nice words. The method you mentioned is clearly right, but consuming too much space if it is used in a small scale model. That's why I went this way. The model I built this for is only 11 studs wide inside.
  13. Attika
    Hi Fellas, I've built a gearbox for 4x4 vehicles and it is rather space efficient. Hope you find it usefull. As usual, I'm being lazy and copy-paste the video description as it has all the basic info. Please feel free to ask, judge, or comment and I try to give my best in the reply It is rather small, I'd love to claim that it is the smallest of it's kind. (but I'm not sure, so I don't say that yet.) Help me find out. Dimensions: L: 7 studs W: 9 studs H: 5 studs Comes with the usual gear ratios: 1st gear 8/24 x 16/24 2nd gear 8/24 x 16/16 3rd gear 16/24 4th gear 16/16 The selector lever required some attention as the upper axles are 5 stud apart. I've been using some rare parts there: -Technic Ball Joint with Through Axle Hole http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=53585#T=C -Bar 4L (Lightsaber Blade / Wand) http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=30374&idColor=16#T=C&C=16 However this lever mechanism can do the shifting quite well, it still not "stupidproof" and need some attention while changing gears. The frame (housing) First. It is made so colorfull to help you dear watcher separate the parts on the video. For motorized version I recommend to rebuild the housing using studded technic parts. Input/Output Outputs are self-explanatory, two red axle ends sticking out from the differential. The input in the other hand is the axle with the 8tooth gear on the front. It is offset by 2 studs, but using a pair of gears it can be transfered to the center too. Whats more, it can be done on the front as well as on the rear side. Thank for your attention
  14. Attika
    Comes up as hidden content, but pics and vid are there. I love your dog. It really has its personality. Grats
  15. Attika
    Such a beauty...
  16. Attika
    Great idea, thanks for sharing
  17. Attika
    And you combined them very well. Nice work.
  18. Attika
    Great, I'm glad you enjoyed. Looking forward to read the report.
  19. Attika
    -Did you change the red cluchgear that is against the diff or did you remove the diff? One of these has to be done. - You can use the M motor for the stepper with a rezurn to center mechanism or part: http://www.bricklink.com/v2/catalog/catalogitem.page?P=x928cx1#T=C - For pics a host site needs to be used, like brickshelf or Flickr. Once you have your pic uploaded on the host site you can link it by clicking on the link icon above in the toolbar and paste the link in the box in that window. Keep going
  20. Attika
    I've been experimenting with rc wheels too. I found that the 12 tooth bevel gear tightly fits to the hexagonal hole. These wheels really shake up the aesthetics and improve steering geometry too by being offset. Some say is heretic though. http://DSC_1397 by Attika Moc, on Flickr
  21. Attika
    For me the riddle in this topic isn't to solve this problem, but finding out what purpose this solution is needed for... I've got an idea or two but I won't be the one who ruins the game . I'm sure however this isn't a tachometer thingy...
  22. Attika
    It is indeed a great project, I like the technical solutions you applied. Besides it warms my heart too, as I spent my childhood commuting by these smelly, noisy (BKV blue and VOLAN yellow) buses. (Since I'm an MI-6 agent I can't reveal my nationality publicly.) Good luck for the rest, I'll follow the progress.
  23. Attika
    If you can afford to use a separate servo motor that could follow the exact position of the train remote "signal". With a simple link system on the servo you can achieve that linear movement. Sorry if it doesn't matches your demands, you really left us in a mysterious enviroment..
  24. Attika
    That is exactly why I did ask you about the diff. If you noticed I was using 3 red clutch gears and 1 old type grey. The one that has direct connection with the differential shouldn't be the red becouse of the collar. The red has collar on both sides, the grey has only on the cluchside. It makes unwanted friction!!!!! But before you change it consider this: To power fake engine from the front output is ok. But if you use differential all the torque goes to the way of lower resistance, in our case to the fake engine and your car wont make an inch of a movement but the fake engine revs up. That is what a differential does. So here is the thing: You should exchange the differential to the 2wd version setup (16 and 24 gears+connector between them) and leave the red clutchgears as they are. Please check these things before you get forward.
  25. Attika
    "a pain" Let say challenge... 4 speeders usually have offset in/outputs. So as much as I see on the pic (it's pretty small, I've used magnifier) you worked out to build the input/output in center, what is a good approach. Me myself building it the same way. Finding out how to build a "stronger" chassis around it is really up to the concept of the MOC in your head, I can't help from the distance. If I find some free time this weekend I'lll build a motorised chassis too with this gearbox, but will use a pair of buggy motors. If I make any progress I'll post some pictures here hopefully those give you some hint or inspiration. In my experience I need to build something 2-20 times to eliminate the flaws. It takes a master builder to come up with the perfect version for the first attempt. My fingers are crossed for you, don't give up, I appreciate that you gave the chance for this gearbox, I hope wont dissapoint you. Some technical notes: Did you changed it to 2wd by not using the differencial? Also I wrote in the vid's description that it can take a limited torque. 2PF XL motors are likely to make the driving rings slip out. I'd be gad if you could share your experience later in this subject.
×
×
  • Create New...