Didumos69

And this one:

Finally recieved the parts to build this.

Something similar has been suggested before, but the whole concept really relies on the strength and the travel of the paired shock absorbers. I'm afraid this is a collector's item.

I don't mind at all. Please show us the end result when you're finished!

@metulskie8, you will run into problems in the back too. It will be a lot of work, but to make it fit you might consider lifting the entire bodywork by one stud, including the black panels in the back.

Thanks for your report and great images @Ctan! Your left front wheel hub needs some reconnecting .

Neeh, don't like them myself.

Yes, that should work. It will have a little more slack though. Nice shock absorbers btw!

Here's an idea for securing the panels above the front wheels. Also an idea for headlights. LXF-file here.

Okay, if it works fine, then I rest my case . One small detail about the front suspension mod. You refer to the issue solved as lag, but I believe most people referred to it as sagging.

@jb70, great to see this being implemented and being improved ?! I'm glad to have contributed. Btw, few days ago I ran through your instructions for the simplified gearbox and I came to realize that it would be nice to also point.out in the instructions that one could consider changing the gearing at the front of the engine to a 16-16 mesh in order to establish an engine-axles ratio that is similar to the original.

You should address remarks on the doors to @Offroadcreat1ons I think. He is responsible for the doors. That being said, I think my suggested changes to the doors also have a smaller hinge.

Here are a few. I left the 90 degree limiter in and the 2x2 brick, but please feel free to change that too. Even the 5x7 frame around these parts is not essential. Only the position of the shift axle should not be changed frivolously. Finally, the main drive axle could also run to the front one stud higher, without U-joints. With U-joints it would require more support than shown in the renders. Hope this helps. https://bricksafe.com/files/Didumos/lb-x18/LB-X18 - chs %231.png https://bricksafe.com/files/Didumos/lb-x18/LB-X18 - chs %232.png https://bricksafe.com/files/Didumos/lb-x18/LB-X18 - chs.png

Ah, that's my mistake. I found the link and will try to put it in (tomorrow, today's my daughter's birthday). Might have to remove some bodywork parts. Also part of the gearbox has moved to the back, so that could be a small issue too.

I fixed that. Also the doors still collide with the body when opened. I did some work on them to make them open further, but this could still be improved. I moved the rotation forward and the side mirror backwards. I also lifted the left front fender slightly. Here is the LXF-file.

That should be the goal imo. 7 studs between the seats would not look good at this scale. Btw we also need a working steering wheel.

Okay, fine! ?

That would be great! So I'll hand that back to you. So far I did my best to have a mid-console that is not wider than 5 studs. The top side that is. The bottom side is wider of course. I also moved the shift axle with the orange paddles as far to the back as possible to leave enough room for the seats. I think we've arrived at a stage where it gets important that the things we make, fit more or less in the given structure. So it would be nice if you can fit the shifter in the given space and take into account the drive axle running to the front wheels. Of course you can change things if you wish, as long as it leaves enough space for seats etc. Do you use LDD? If you don't, I could make some more renders from different angles of the shifter area. Let me know. @Jeroen Ottens, yesterday you asked about cleaning up the chassis after you're done. But I assume you are first going to take care of weaving the body to the chassis, or is that not the case? If you could do at least a first attempt, I could also clean that up afterwards. Or maybe that was what you meant in the first place.

Nice update on the doors! The mirror could do one stud smaller, but I guess that's a matter of taste. I merged all changes in one file and uploaded it to the usual location. I have one major concern though. The doors will definitely collide with the rest of the body now and probably also still with the wheels, as @Carsten Svendsen pointed out a few months ago.

I could only have hoped to see my engine end up in a 'real' Bugatti ?! Thanks! Driving the diffs directly is the right approach I think. All 8 speeds make sense this way.

I wouldn't mind taking care of that. Unless someone else would really love to do it. Nice progress btw! I've built the shifter I designed, but it's no good. I think I'll try to put something like this in, if it's okay.

Very entertaining!

For two gears to mesh perfectly, you need 16 teeth alltogether for each stud they span (center to center). So with 2 8t gears you can span 1 stud (8t + 8t = 16t), with 2 16t gears you can span 2 studs (16t + 16t = 32t) and also with a 12t-20t mesh you can span 2 studs (12t + 20t = 32t) and with a 8t-24t mesh you can span 2 studs (8t + 24t = 32t). So, to span 1.5 stud, you need 24 teeth: a 12t-12t mesh or a 8t-16t mesh. For 2.5 stud you need 40 teeth: a 20t-20t mesh or a 16t-24t mesh. In the example below all gear meshes are perfect. Only the distance between the rotary catch and the driving rings is not perfect (it's 2.12L, where in the ideal situation it should be 2L). A non-perfect distance that is often used, is the distance spanned by 2 studs in one dimension and 1 stud in the other dimension. That would require 16 * sqrt(1^2 + 2^2) ≈ 35.78 teeth, which comes close to 36 teeth, which can be obtained with a 16t-20t mesh or a 12t-24t mesh. The 16t-20t mesh is used in the Bugatti gearbox. Finally, a mesh I would not consider as acceptable is a 20t-24t mesh used to span 2 studs in one dimension and 2 studs in the other dimension. The distance would require 16 * sqrt(2^2 + 2^2) ≈ 45.25 teeth, more than a tooth more than the 20t-24t mesh. However, also this mesh is used in the Bugatti, in the DNR to be precise.

I took the liberty to move the gearbox two studs to the back. The essence of the rear axles could remain the same. I also experimented (digitally) with moving part of the gearing to the back of the rear axles, which creates even more space for the seats. This does not involve extra gear meshes, two axles are simply extended to the back, but it does take space in the area where the adjustable rear wing should go. The update LXF-file is here and the experimental LXF-file is here. To illustrate, here are 3 renders showing a) the situation before this update, b) the situation with the gearbox moved backwards by 2 studs and c) the situation with the gearbox moved backwards by 4 studs: LXF-file is here. LXF-file is here.

In the original the yellow extension ring is used for one of the speeds in the 4-speed half of the gearbox, not for reverse. In the mod the extension is not needed. It’s more simple and it has a 8<->1 gearblock. It uses 2 gear meshes less for each speed.