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Didumos69

Eurobricks Dukes
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Everything posted by Didumos69

  1. Yes, sure, that would certainly something I can work with.
  2. Is there someone who can share or pm me a stud.io file if the original model?
  3. Thanks! It all comes down to suspension. The suspension arms should be able to move smoothly and as a rule of thumb the suspension should be compressed halfway its overall travel under the vehicle's own weight. That will allow the arms to expand as much as compress while driving.
  4. I can confirm the 3l thin lift arms actually rotates around that pin. Because of the long suspension arms the rotation / suspension travel ratio is relatively small. So I preferred having a firm grip on the motors over a frictionless rotation. I think your idea may work, but I'm not sure if it increases chances of detached parts. You could try pulling the motor assembly out of its pivot points to compare your solution with the original one.
  5. I made instructions for the engine with working valves and exhaust system. This is the engine I have in mind for this revisiting. See this video for the working of the valves.
  6. I will be working on a studless version of 8844 Helicopter, my second set ever.
  7. It could, but it will give much more play, with chances of a slipping driving ring, see image (courtesy of @Attika).
  8. Thanks for your comment! Your understandings are correct. The red driving ring and lbg extension are indeed older pieces, I wouldn't say from the studful era though. They have been produced until 2014. The changeover catch is indeed half a stud off, but it never fails.
  9. I took the time to make instructions for a gearbox concept I had laying around. 4 variations on the same concept, a gear layout I have not yet seen somewhere else. One of the main objectives: Clutch gears are only used for engaging with driving rings, not for transferring drive over axles running at different speed, which is a common source of friction. Ratios: 0.33 0.50 0.67 1.00 Centered heavy-duty manual 4-speed gearbox - Rear input (instructions on Rebrickable): Centered heavy-duty manual 4-speed gearbox - Front input (instructions on Rebrickable): Centered heavy-duty manual AWD 4-speed gearbox - Rear input (instructions on Rebrickable): Centered heavy-duty manual AWD 4-speed gearbox - Front input (instructions on Rebrickable):
  10. Awesome. I like seeing this extreme RC plumbing a lot. Please take it to places no man can go and share some footage .
  11. Is this better? They're static. I'll leave them in for now, but not as main headlights. I did change the main headlights to match the auxiliary lights better. You mean the 2x2 dishes as headlights? That would be too big imo. Here's a render for comparison. The whole front of my build is only 6 studs high.
  12. Retaining "hammerhead" is not an objective. Retaining ruggedness is. Depending on how it ends up, I'll think of a new name. Btw, here's an example of some connections near the rear lights illustrating the ruggedness. Nothing should come apart easily.
  13. Thanks for the comments! Yes, the 8880-ish or unique look made me hesitate too. I don't see this as parting with the original build though. It's more like how @suffocation puts it: "A natural progression." The process of building the original was one in which I took into account all my self-imposed rules. The result almost felt like the only possible conclusion of that process. This 'revisiting' is more like: How would such a process end up today. I'll see if I can make it more open or meaner. I agree that area needs attention. Something with more profound intakes is a great suggestion. Ruggedness remains to be one of the primary objectives. The curved panel is a perfect piece for covering the structural elements, particularly in the roof and bonnet.
  14. After a long period of not working on any model, and still only having a little bit of time to spend on LEGOs, I started revisiting this model, digitally first. I'm trying to incorporate newer parts, like for instance the orange rotary catch for the gearbox and the rims of the Defender. I'm working my way from the outside to the inside. I have most of the bodywork done and want to incorporate this fake V6 engine with moving pistons and valves: I also have an idea to increase ground clearance and suspension travel. Please let me know what you think.
  15. No this did not lead to anything yet. I haven't had time for LEGOs the past half year. But what you made is really cool and is about as good as it can get I think, performance-wise.
  16. @Zerobricks, can I connect 4 Buwizz motors to 1 Buwizz 3.0, stacking them 2 by 2?
  17. I believe it's called rat rod. I have to admit the cabin was somewhat inspired by this Trophy Rat...
  18. Yeah, this one still makes me proud. When @Blakbird did his sale, this one was not on his list, so I always wishfully interpreted that as if he wanted to keep it (I know he had it built).
  19. You are quite right @Erik LeppenLeppen. And you're also right about the travel etc. I just tested it and the springs compressed substantially more. I do wonder where my reasoning is wrong. Will give that some study. Anyway, I won't be bothering this topic anymore too.
  20. Yes softer, but the car's weight will compress the springs just as far as with shorter arms. Suppose you have 6l suspension arms (5l center to center), you have travel of 2 studs and the car sinks in its suspension by 1 stud (50%). Now when you extend the suspension arms to 9l (8l center to center), while preserving the exact layout of the springs, you get roughly 8/5 times the travel (>3l) and the car still sinks in its suspension by approximately 50%. This is of course under the assumption that the weight of the suspension arms is only a fraction of the car's complete weight.
  21. You're right that the shocks can only handle a certain force. But I don't think you're right about the travel. You have to see it this way. It's not the arm that applies force, it's the car's weight that is the source of force. How much force the car applies to the shock with it's own weight, is defined by the geometry made by the mounting points of the shock relative to the car, not relative to the outer ends of the suspension arms. With longer arms, while preserving the exact same geometry, the weight will still apply the same force on the shocks and only make the arms articulate more, but not compress the shock more. So more travel yes, more compression of the shock no. Of course in practice the weight of the suspension arms is going to play a role too when they get very long. But when we talk about 9l suspension arms or 6l arms, that effect will be negligible. So I still arrive at the conclusion that longer arms don't affect how deep the car sinks in the springs under it's own weight, while they do increase travel.
  22. Alternatively, you can make the suspension arms and the steering links 9L. Btw, there's 2 simple rules when it comes to suspension stiffness and travel. 1. The percentage by which a given weight compresses the suspension is roughly defined by the distance of the shock and the rotation point of the suspension arm to which the shock is mounted. The closer the shock to the rotation point, the less weight it can carry. 2. When extending the suspension arms while preserving the aforementioned distance (keeping the shock mounting points the same) the same weight will give the same compression percentage. So by extending the suspension arms, you increase suspension travel without declining the weight the suspension can carry. Therefore I say, make them long if you want travel. Courtesy by @Erik Leppen.
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