aeh5040

Thanks for the queries, and sorry for the confusion! The model is now on rebrickable, including the parts list with links, so it should be easier to identify the parts. (I think you need to log in to rebrickable to see them). That one is indeed the weapon barrel - congratulations Chase! - and of course Jon61 is correct on the others. I've no idea how I ended up using two types of 16t gear! It is an error - they should be all the same. http://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-8109/aeh5040/synchro-pods/

Wow, looks awesome. I'm going to try this right away...

The x pod lids are hard to find, unfortunately. It is probably possible to substitute something else - dishes, etc. (although the pod lids give a particularly convenient solution). If someone wants to try, make sure each arm is well balanced.

I don't think it's as simple as that. From wikipedia:

Yes! (And thanks for the compliment). Instructions are now finished: http://bricksafe.com/files/aeh/synchro-pods/pods-instructions.pdf

That's correct - it basically cannot be deformed. It is fairly amazing to me that tensegrity structures exist. Of course, if you throw it hard enough it will break, like any Lego model. And there is a small amount of flex, because of stretching of the chains and bending of the axles - it actually has quite a nice feeling of "bounce" to it.

Nice! Dutch students must have a very sophisticated sense of humour...

Hi folks, I managed to make a tensegrity icosahedron: It is a tensegrity structure: the axles are all in compression, and do not touch each other, the chains are all in tension, and it holds its shape.

That's not accurate either. What you can and cannot do without permission of the copyright holder is a complicated business, and varies by jurisdiction. See e.g. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Limitations_and_exceptions_to_copyright

Interesting build! I'm surprised at how easily it rolls. Now I'd like to see a way to transmit power to those wheels!

I think it will always be likely that TLG will repeat similar set designs every few years. Their main market is children, and the tastes of children (of any particular age range) probably do not change very much from one year to another. TLG's primary motivation is to sell sets, and it is natural for them to favour tried and tested stratgies. This is bound to result in long-term AFOLs being slightly disappointed in the set selection. Given these realities, I actually think that they do a huge amount that should please AFOLs, especially in Technic, and especially in recent years. For example, the BWE is the biggest technic set ever, a completely new concept, has several never-before-seen mechanisms, and has some really useful new parts along the lines that some of us have long wished for. And don't forget the Porsche - while maybe we are not super happy with the execution, it was obviously a very serious attempt to appeal to an adult market, and that part should be applauded. Even though there are (as always) disappointments, I think we are living in a Technic golden age. Speaking for myself, I have a list of a dozen or very challenging MOCs I would like to ultimately make. My main constraint is finding enough time to work on them. So definitely no fears of running out of motivation or inspiration...

As a very simple practical step, I have started using these rubber parts as "feet" on the bottom of stationary motorized models (which most of mine are). In addition to reducing noise, they stop it sliding around.

While that's true, the amount of energy carried by sound is very very tiny compared with the energy output of the motor. E.g. Philo's page gives the mechanical power of an XL motor at optimal load as 2.21 W, whereas according to Wikipedia, the typical sound power produced by a "large diesel vehicle" is 0.001 W. If your XL motor is as loud as a real-life truck, then perhaps you do have an issue, but even then the sound still accounts for than 1/1000 of the total power! I have found that one effective way of reducing noise is to isolate the motor mechanically so that there is less transmission of vibration to surrounding parts and to the table (if the model is on a table). Rubber parts can be useful for this.

Maybe a parameterized font tool such as this one could help in recreating it: http://www.metaflop.com/modulator Congratulations on one of the geekiest questions ever

Let me add my voice to the chorus eagerly awaiting the instructions! Honestly, I don't usually get that excited about supercars. Not because I don't admire the clear engineering skill and artistry that goes into them - I do. Perhaps because supercars are such a popular theme that it becomes hard for me to distinguish them all. In any case, I have no such issue with this one! It's clearly a masterpiece in every way. Very much looking forward to the opportunity to build it...

I second this. It is good practice with any technic model, but especially important with this one. It really pushes the limits of what is possible, in terms of weight, torque, friction, etc. (It's quite amazing that it works!) So any extra friction anywhere is especially likely to cause problems. Every time something new is added, check that all parts still turn easily. If not, go through everything carefully and find out where the resistance is coming from.

Thanks! I have instructions almost ready...

It's not the type you asked about, but Kevin Mitcham has instructions for a particularly simple module here: http://www.kevinmitcham.com/gbc/index.html

On the issue of speed measurement, my experience with about 5 different GPS devices over the years is that for maximum speed measurement it is hopelessly unreliable. For example, according to GPS I fairly regularly achieve speeds of over 80km/h on a pedal bicycle, and 200km/h in a car. There are good reasons for this - GPS works by measuring position, using a method that is accurate to a few 10s of metres at best. If two consecutive position measurements are off in difference directions (say 10m and 60m instead of 20m and 40m), the calculated speed will be a long way off. On the other hand, average speed measurements over a long distance should be better. While I haven't experimented much with the Lego speedometer, one would expect that the underlying technology (rotation counting) would provide a much more accurate method of speed measurement.

I'm guessing the index mechanism from Didumos's Hammerhead would be a good place to start:

I'm really enjoying the elegant simplicity of the design (and the name is a perfect fit!). It might not be the most elaborate, but I'm guessing it would win most fights! Looking froward to seeing video. I'm curious whether it is in danger of shaking itself to pieces, in spite of the reinforcements. I'm also curious whether the hammer action can be satisfactorily controlled by just a standard PF remote.

Now that is one terrifying beast! Nice to see the reappearance of those Mecanum wheels!

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=221563 ?

I'm not sure if this is what you are asking, but the angle turned will depend on four things: 1. number of rotations performed by the motor 2. gear ratio, if any 3. wheel diameter 4. distance between wheels Only 1. is under the control of the program. And if it is done by timing rather than via the rotation sensors then even that will also depend on load and battery condition.

This is a fascinating topic, but perhaps it doesn't belong in the Technic forum?