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LiLmeFromDaFuture

Eurobricks Knights
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Everything posted by LiLmeFromDaFuture

  1. @ anothergol Yes it should be round there, since the last time I had it standing on all four legs, yet it might be considerably above that since I revised the legs and the feet, which might bring into the 25m scale range. I also found this answer useful for determining the scale in LEGO: (Link)
  2. Here is my design for the old feet for anyone who is interested. Also, real recently, I went the extra mile, and revised this version with an improved structure (the one on the left). *File Removed*
  3. It is still small compared to a minifigure scale one, but it seemed big for a Lego set, and that is coming from someone who never owned any of those sets and only seen images of them outside their box. Lowering the viewport will help, but what I was recommending is to decrease the length from 6 studs to 5 studs. Or you could even shorten it to 4 studs and put one of these on each side
  4. When I saw this set in a display at my local Target store I was surprise how big it is in life. Anyway, I suggest shortening the length of the view port by one stud. Then I suggest tapering the head a bit more, which will dramatically enhance the overall perspective.
  5. I always figured they would accept the idea as a consideration for future sets in the Star wars theme, but I guess that is not how it works due to the fact of being different departments.
  6. Why isn't this on Lego Ideas? Get it over there now (if you already haven't)! Though I am not keen on buying sets until I see something that I will find absolutely astonishing, this will undoubtedly make an absolutely fun set for someone!
  7. Thanks—I mentioned earlier that I would upload the file at some point.
  8. The feet are virtually the same in appearance, except there is no seamless transition to the rounded brick corners and no stepped pattern. Though the bottom line is that the new arch is two studs longer than 12 stud diameter of the four rounded brick corners.
  9. Here is an idea for the details of the knee: Share what is your opinion on it.
  10. Yeah I see what you mean with how one is more prone to yielding to gravity when it has extra weight, as opposed to using multiple joints, as I experienced that overtime with the "studdy" and glued joints legs. Before I retired them, the walker seem to stand fine even with one or two bent, even though each had only one joint. But I do enjoy fidgeting with stiff joints and the sounds they make, though the only way to add another joint is to increase the thickness of the legs to three studs. However I could have kept the same thickness and have two joints if there was a version of those hinge parts where the connector holes were sideways than how they are traditionally.
  11. @anothergol Interesting, though I thought I saw a Bricklink store that specializes in custom stickers, but I might be confusing that with ChromeBricks @jhaelego Two studs thick, that's what I am beginning to realize. Anyway, the hinge joint use is the renowned, high friction, Technic rotation joint disk that is 3m thick.
  12. Alright fellows, thanks for giving you opinions. Yeah I was trying bring appealing emphasize on the brace, arch and foot, as opposed to having a continuous, almost seamlessly, flow from brace to the leg, and also being the same thickness as the arch. I thought about making the brace one stud thicker, but that might conflict with the size of the cylinder structure atop the footpad. Lastly, I too have not seen any other reference of the AT-AT with legs in that fashion. Yes, I intend to use printed dishes to brake the monotony of LBG, but perhaps it bulges out—especially on the slender legs. I did not want to do brick built ones since it brake the circular delineation, unless I could find a way to use flexible bars in an efficient way. I did want to use the same patterned round 8 x 8 tile that thire5/Martin Latta used on his AT-ATs, but I couldn't find the decorated part or even a sticker on Bricklink. Star Wars: Battle of Hoth by Martin Latta, on Flickr In fact they will—just like on the previous version I had before I made it bigger, but I have boat studs attached to them so they don't fall off so easy, which prevents that. Though once I build the new feet will just remove them if they are a issue. Indeed it seems like two stud thickness is a current requirement, unless the Technic pin holes of the hinge joint are sideways in my case. My AT-AT will be exceedingly empty, and since I will be still using my gearbox system, issues with weight will not be an issue. Besides, not all legs will be bent when posed, at least one, at most two. I had long rigid hoses going through the length of the legs, as well some through the width. The problem, perhaps would be how difficult is it to stick them through modified bricks with studs on their sides. Yes, I wonder about one of your photos why one side was different from the other, but I liked the idea of using those decorated flags, yet I didn't like that it made look less circular from certain angles. The prints on the dishes are really inaccurate, but I have an idea with clips and hoses.
  13. Legs that are sturdy, highly detailed, and slender, yet not jointed?… … Or legs that are sturdy, highly detailed, and articulated (to a maximum of 45º), yet thicker? Please weigh in and explain your opinion : )
  14. Best of all I am designing a model of the leg that will be sturdy and articulated (it will be able bend at a maximum of 45 degrees!), and the surprise is I will upload it here, so it can be freely available to the community!
  15. Nice textures indeed I guess before I was more concerned about covering a lot of area with less bricks so that there would be less seems or bevels between the elements—but thanks for the Idea! As for the footpad since there is not one piece, two halves, or four quarters to make up a cylinder-like structure that is perfectly identical from almost every angle, it was in my best reasoning to make each side parallel to the other. You did a fantastic work recreating the foot—I began to question if I ever uploaded the file Your quick work proves your support and I appreciate it! The looks of LDD can be deceiving—everything looks better outside the digital world you know!
  16. @krisandkris12 Never mind explaining the construction of the cylinder, I just realized the part that you used. I like this design better—so thanks! The only concern is the availability in LBG—this will call for spray painting!
  17. The 2 x 2 tile to cover up the studs does make it significantly bulky. Before, I had a in place of the 2 x 2 brick on each side of the arch, to give a false perception of the arch being rounder than it actually is, but that part is obviously too rare and not that demanding to buy 8 of them. When I first made the feet I had a design for the arch that was similar to yours (just not as sturdier), but I was not fond at all with how the 2 x 4 curved, slope broke the continuity of the curvature with the 2 x 2 round tile… I like curvature of the redesigned foot with it still being about 12 studs in diameter, but I guess I am peeved about not all sides (with exception to the side for the yaw strut) are identical with each other . Can you show how you designed the sides for the cylinder; it looks better than what I have now but I cannot tell how it is built? Thank you for your support!
  18. That will actually work . Yes, I haven't considered doing this before, since the it was significantly steeper, but that would actually make the thickness of the upper part uniform with that of the lower part, because that was an issue for the leg sliding with the differing thickness—thank you. I just went to drdavewatword's blog on building the UCS AT-AT, at the point when he began the build with the legs and feet, and notice mine and the UCS AT-AT feet were both about 14 studs in length/width (mine just being more of a perfect circle :D). I am not really concerned about this being out scale with other parts because what I am now endeavoring to represent is the exaggeratedly skinny legs and heavily emphasized feet of the AT-AT walker portrayed in these schematics:
  19. Thank you. There is a 1 x 2 modified brick with studs on one side, but you are correct suggesting that will not be enough to support the top heaviness. I actually tested its resilience under my hand, and it did began to split from that area. Axles could work, but I will be peeved about it not connecting to anywhere, unless there is a axle connector inserted in one of the various molds that I never known of. However, running axles, or long rigid 3mm D. hoses through one of the designs I have for the legs, will no doubt make it structurally secured.
  20. It's simpleness makes it look exciting, though I believe it does function as an "ice cutter," as it seems practical that it would have been utilized to excavate the trenches on the battlefield.
  21. 12/05/2015 update Greetings everyone, it's been a long while since I posted any updates. Lately, I have been at a stuck point, and frustrated with not accomplishing much on this MF scale AT-AT or even on the smaller one, I momentarily put off and neglected time spent on my LEGOs and LDD and use those hours otherwise to play Halo 5: Guardians on my Xbox One. Well, after dmaclego introduced his walker, which I do not think I would have seen so soon if it was not shared here for inspiration, (since I also have not been exploring the forums so often as lately), I realized how inconsistent the "studdyness" of the legs was with the rest of my walker, and his, as well as other around here , inspired me to improve and even completely redesign the legs. These revisions has brought other things in this area to focus; significantly I notice some design flaws in the feet. Surprisingly, I discover some minor inaccuracies despite it supposing to be the perfect representation in LEGO as for details are concerned. Most importantly the arched ankle was too thin and narrow compared to my references. This considered, I took to LDD, and after having built my latest version of the footpad, I immediately ditched the white brick, arch and implemented a brick-built version, that was refined from an earlier version, which was around when I first designed the foot, that was lifted from the design of cavegod's UCS AT-AT. Brackets were of great help to make the new arches sturdier than before and connect to the cylinder in an efficient manner. Afterwards, the new arch gained two studs in length than originally being 12 (which was also the diameter of the footpad). This complicated things, since the feet were already perfectly shaped circles, but with the new, sturdier, cooler looking arches, the feet looked terribly awkward being a stud short on each side for the length of the arch. It was my only option to redesign the feet larger to compliment the longer arch and the robustness it portrays. So then, I completely redesigned the construction of the foot as well, but based on the structure of another foot to a smaller, simpler AT-AT walker (which I have mentioned I have been designing too). In the end the foot rounded out like a perfect circle and it looks mightier than before, as well the new arch. Comparison with smaller AT-AT foot and older MF scale foot. New version leaves behind a larger footprint, which is very pleasing ; ) Comment what think so far with this recent progress—it is much appreciated.
  22. From time to time, the arch does slide out from the half bush Technic pins that connect them to the connectors when held. But, exciting news, I am completely redesigning the ankles and the legs altogether, which will be a tremendous improvement from the unfortunately fragile & "studdy" legs I have now—above all it won't need crazy amounts of glue ; ) I will have an update on the progress of the refined design soon, and a special surprise for the community : )
  23. I won't go to say about any inaccuracies, but it does look mightily impressive. Especially with the accomplishment of motorized power functions for the head, and how his smoother (probably sturdier) legs put mine to shame Old light grey for the leaking is a nice touch, yet I forwent tiny details like this, with the use of plates, to avoid a "brick wall" affect as much as possible. The ankles seem to function similarly to mine, that is, they slide and not pivot. Importantly, they are light grey… unlike mine .
  24. WOW! That is an impressive amount of dedication to such a task—congratulations! I have a couple of questions: - Is this based off his most recent version? - What specific program did you used to accomplish this awesome work!?
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