Jump to content

LiLmeFromDaFuture

Eurobricks Knights
 View Profile  See their activity

  • Posts

    811

  • Joined

  • Last visited

 Content Type 

Everything posted by LiLmeFromDaFuture

  1. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Hmm… Well, I am still having a difficult time visualizing the setup you are describing , but how about this; the 8 tooth gears are connected with axel/pins with friction:
  2. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Ah hah! Almost too easy In the Lego version, I think the Panda would blend in more if the more recent minifigure of the scout trooper was used, because he has more black on his costume
  3. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Would that require repeated detaching of the leg in order to change the angle?
  4. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Yes, I don't have any fashioned in that manner, but with the few I do use they are overlaid and secured with plates across them.
  5. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    I am assuming that because of the multiple 8 tooth gears there would be a significant amount of friction experienced in the revolution of the turntable, correct?
  6. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    A Top part other than the shoulders? What is the error in the mold of the 1 x1 2 brackets? Or did you meant physically?
  7. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Or how about if the gear was inside the Technic turntable?:
  8. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    I have manage to fit the type 2 Technic turntable… Now I am wondering if anyone have any experience with the white gear 60c01() and know if it is ratcheted (has a locking system), and/or how will it work with the Technic turntable?
  9. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Okay thanks!
  10. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Yeah, I would love to see a UCS AT-AT (though I too am guilty of designing my own ), or AT-ST, ISD, T-47 airspeeder, or how 'bout all of them!
  11. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    So there is some sort of friction in type 3 that stiffens the revolution of turntable? I guess I will have to get some to fiddle around with and see if something can be designed that would suit my needs, based on your concerns. I figured if the shoulders are at a fixed point, it would give the feet less of an option to slide away (like I have seen others struggle with when trying to assemble cavegod's walker). There is not much room at all for the rubber connecter, but the yaw strut, which connects to this part of the leg from the side of the foot by a technic towball pin, would control the movement quite a bit. Plus the leg can lock at a certain point around the arch, where the slope 2 x 2 brick is, because the curvature of the arch is not completely uniform.
  12. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Okay, I will go try it out.
  13. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    I am thinking about a new design for the articulation of the legs at the shoulders. Has anyone had any experience with these Technic turntables and knows if any of them are ratcheted (and maybe how strong it is)? Type 1: 2856c01 () Type 2: 48452cx1 () Type 3: 18939c01 ()
  14. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Much appreciated! — To reduce the leeway the gears would have, I would use the 1.5L pins, and since I can not access the gearbox from outside, I will have to rely upon a point on the 24 tooth gear to position the legs. — The axle in there is the four length one with the stop — Before I thought of using worm gearbox, I thought about using technic turntables, but I don't know if they ratcheted? It is not too bad; besides the perfect curvature of the brick arches surrounding the round 8 x 8 tile is nice I think the real issues is that bricks are used to from the curvature rather than plates, as a result it is exaggerated, and because the round 8 x 8 tile is not any larger than that of the knee. What would you say the probable height is after this comparison to minifigures at various points?
  15. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    I believe it is not as bad using the 1.5L pin, since their will be less tension from prying it apart at the ends, but also it has those slits on the technic holes which makes it easier to fit that part over the pins.
  16. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Alright fellows, this next update will cover the completion of the new design for the legs… The leg stands at about a staggeringly measure of 45.72 cm/18 in (that is 25 studs). This makes it clear it is going to be bigger than a smaller scaled minifigure scaled AT-AT walker (since there is no definite height; its been measured to be as short as 15 meters to as high as 39 meters tall). I haven't made the counterpart of the front left or back right leg, so what you see is just a clone… I just love how beautiful the 2339 () fits in there so perfectly! I still have the worm gearbox function in place, which will dramatically support with stability, but unfortunately, because of the structure, I cannot efficiently access the gearbox to make adjustments from the outside.
  17. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    I have been wanting to use this program for a while on my Mac, but I have not been able to get it to work despite the instructions. Is there any tutorial out there that explains how?
  18. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Thanks, I believe so too!
  19. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    I absolutely love the new leg design —I actually have some of those towball socket parts! 150% better aesthetically. I could care less if it loses a few points of articulation. The head looks great longer. I guess the only thing I can think of negatively is that there is so much DBG I think I have to see if I could implement that new design for the lower leg on my AT-ST—that is just how impressed I am with it
  20. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    I agree, it does look even better than before!
  21. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Well in case anyone was interested I updated the photos with more views, though I am going to progress with the leg on the right sid, since the grille detail is continuous and the bar detailed can be varied without the use of shorter, cut rigid hoses.
  22. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Apologies, I was in a rush, but I will provide some more views with those gaps filled in. Back and forth, I have been determining the proportions of each leg section on the studio model with my ruler across the screen, but I could not decide which version to use, because the upper leg portion is slightly longer than the lower leg (the left leg), but with the version on the right, I can get the grille tiles all the way to the end, but I felt it was slightly elongated. So I wanted to include the perspective of others to judge which is more proportioned. With an overall view of the legs LDD is of no help displaying the details, because of how tall they are, but I believe it will be more easier to see a significant difference with a view from the back. Still haven't manage to get Bluerender or POV Converter to work on my Mac
  23. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Actually I haven't alter the design of the foot for a while?
  24. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Thanks phaelon for your opinion! Both legs are incomplete at the moment and their levels of incompleteness differs from each other. Why I like the one on the right is because the grille tile on the sides extends to the end of the upper leg portion unlike the leg on the left. However I felt it was too long by a stud, but I like to hear others perspectives on this.
  25. LiLmeFromDaFuture
    Ever since I have seen dmaclego's AT-AT, the detail that impressed me most (besides the mechanisms) was how he represented the taper that leads up to the upper part of the legs—I believe I have not seen that ever before on other larger scaled MOCs. Well, maybe its because the actual detail is not that exaggerated as he portrays it, but I am actually fond of how exaggerated he made it. Call me crazy , but that is one of the details I actually liked on the AT-AT walkers featured in "Rebels" (though I still don't like the show all that much). Rebels AT-AT walker by Michael, on Flickr That brings me to my next update that I ask of you to weigh your opinion on. Well firstly, I finally started on designing the upper part of the legs—yes!. If you haven't notice the lack of its progress, I have been dreading doing this part for quite a bit, because I wanted it to be sturdy yet far from being bland, and I also desired for it to taper. My frustrations with acquiring those specifications was finding a way to do it without forgoing the structure I aspire to have and for the most part, already have emplaced, so I couldn't do it exactly like dmaclego—even if I wanted to copy him. The next set of difficulties to design upper part of the legs came about as to find what part that could represent the shallow taper alternatively of using hinge plates, because with the structure I have in place I could not as efficiently cover up the hinge plates without making it thicker and ruining the aspect of the leg. Literally the only part that would be appropriate for the job as being long with a shallow slope is part 85970 (), because the only other similar part 4515 () is obliviously not an option. Despite the first part mentioned being curved, I decided to progress the design with it, and eventually, with the use of a couple hinge plates, the taper appears linear than it is actually. Now it brings me to finally ask what version of the leg do you find is more proportioned? The one that is 50 studs tall (on the left) or the one that is 51 studs tall (on the right)?
×
×
  • Create New...