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_Cookie_

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by _Cookie_

  1. _Cookie_
    1. 10 6. 6 15. 4 36. 3 26. 2 38. 1
  2. _Cookie_
    I think those recommendations fit very well. To be honest, anyone i know does not calculate those values (including me, of course ). It are values that are combined to a median by many rc pilots over time. There's also that "rule" to have 200W/kg on your engine IF you want to go vertical, or only 100W/kg if it's a non acrobatic, aerodynamic glider. I may have not as much experience as other rc pilots, but I have a very good example that suits this case very well: Styrofoam plane with oversized rudders, 500g weight, 75W Motor and 7.5 Ncm Servos. The plane may reaches 40km/h and is a bit too heavy for its design. The servos are really the minimum here. I saw it several times, that the elevator was pushed down a little while going up with full-speed (against some wind). Then again, some may say... uh that's your foam that bends in the wind... (in my opinion that part is very rigid. You'll notice the difference between a "sponge-like" and "rigid-but-not-enough-power" model, when YOU fly the plane. So... please, at least double or triple your 8 Ncm Cookie Edit: The sad truth about servos (and i guess that counts for everything today...) is, that they don't deliver what is in the datasheet... It's the best to assume that they reach about 10% less than stated.
  3. _Cookie_
    Wow, really nice project there as rc plane pilot, i would be worried about the Motor mounts and especially the vibrations from the Motors (i hope you used a somewhat elastic glue and not "stone hard" CA glue). Anyway, good luck with it And... as you stated here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=90916&st=25#entry2056796 Do ALL your servos only have 8 Ncm? In this weight class you should get servos with at least 40 to 50 Ncm Cookie
  4. _Cookie_
    And if you click on the "technic" above a selected technic model, you'll just get linked to... i guess ALL products in one list? :D
  5. _Cookie_
    I have tested a servo with 10.6V. It is the Voltage of 3 LiFePo4 in series (fully charged). Works fine, but i think 12.6V from LiPo would be to much... has anyone tested ?
  6. _Cookie_
    Just as a side note, you don't even have to own all parts of an official set. I just looked at rebrickable (set to exact color, 600 parts, official sets only) and most of the time i got 95%... you won't use 100% of each set anyway, or? I haven't built a MOC yet (yeah, just sometimes built a B model and back ), but this kind of contest seems doable .
  7. _Cookie_
    I guess the above "Supercar" presentation image is very doable. Even with zero knowledge, a small youtube video showing how to add a picture in a picture should be fine. In terms of software... "gimp" is free (hmm, for something like that even paint should work).
  8. _Cookie_
    If you can manage to find all pieces of an existing set in the same color, then you basically own/have the set and are allowed to use it. The only difference would be that lego didn't sell it in the same box to you... but such a rule would be absurd. Edit: Damn Set 42021 and 42022... point landing on the part limit (looked up on brickset)
  9. _Cookie_
    Yes
  10. _Cookie_
    Should work, the "measures 2 to 9 propellers" tells it how many blades appear in front of the sensor before 1 round is done. So it should easily work with an lego propeller.
  11. _Cookie_
    Heh, i hope you don't use lattice diamond for programming vhdl. Buggiest piece of software i have ever used so far... On topic, just watched the videos of the original lego speed controller... those differences are horrible: How can such a simple circuit fail? Sure it's quite old now, but i can't imagine the usage was that high to wear it out.
  12. _Cookie_
    Woha, that chip on the left looks like overkill? But it looks really cool. So i see 5 sensors for the speed, right? Cookie
  13. _Cookie_
    TLG could use LiFePo4 Accumulators... + they don't explode + high discharge current + 3 of them in series have fully charged 10.6V, those 1.6V more are okay in my opinion (way better than those missing volts on the currently offered pack) - none? Cookie
  14. _Cookie_
    2: 10 9: 6 5: 4 10: 3 3: 2 8: 1
  15. _Cookie_
    Imagine you forget to turn it off, coming home to see hundreds of paper planes one the ground Nice!
  16. _Cookie_
    Hmm, i liked the previous front lights and the curved mud guards more. And i read in the other thread that they discarded the mud guards because the are ¿ instable ? uh? Couldn't they make a L like structure? Something like this: ____________ |
  17. _Cookie_
    If those pics are the real deal, then i have decided already :D 42031 - no 42032 - no 42033 - maybe - yeah it's pull back, but i like the narrow design 42034 - no 42035 - no 42036 - maybe - looks simple, but i like the colors 42037 - no - looks half finished to me 42038 - yes - sth. new? atleast i haven't seen sth. like that 42039 - yes - greeeeeen :D
  18. _Cookie_
    Nice :D I liked the tv show "robot wars". With lego this would become an affordable hobby.
  19. _Cookie_
    Hello EB Community, i have seen some people made just one topic for their creations/ideas... so heres mine (like it, keeps the forum a bit tidy) I haven't built a MOC yet, but sth. a MOC could use Maybe I'll get ideas some time. Cookie
  20. _Cookie_
    1.14kg with this extended boom, impressive
  21. _Cookie_
    If you ask me, i don't even understand why this hole discussion about "pro/con of reverse engineered new sets" exists. - The builder had fun making it. - If you like the appearance/function of it or have an hint for making it more awesome then comment. What else matters? I don't see the reason why it should be less worth than any other MOC (like stated by others, it's actually harder to get the details out of a single 2D picture). Nothing, absolutely nothing can be more pleasant than a new lego box with the fresh scent of new parts. Cookie
  22. _Cookie_
    Hello, as for the PF -> RC converter: PF = PWM, 1.17kHz RC = Pulse Width: 1.5ms = stop (servo middle pos), 1ms = max. backward, 2ms = max. forward (you can invert forward/backward). The Frequence ranges from 50Hz to 200Hz. Everything above 100Hz are mostly Digital Servos, most receivers can be toggled (analog/digital output). You would definitely need a micro-controller for the conversion (which could be easily powered by the 9V supply on side of the cable. But as others have said, IR isn't suited for "fast" things. Immediately out of range. Cookie
  23. _Cookie_
    3 A123 LiFePO4 in series (1100mAh). They are between the stacked boards. Edit: Empty: 7.5 V, Full: 10.6V. I think those 1.6V more are okay.
  24. _Cookie_
    Hello Finally my "Brick" is done :D It sits there, waiting for its MOC... but I don't want to disassemble my standard sets... But i'm satisfied that it works It could handle 16 loaded XL's and 2 ev3/nxt As a long-time lurker here on the forums, you guys build amazing stuff Cookie
  25. _Cookie_
    Hi, google translator tells me that your speed-controller has a voltage protection. That means it throttles the motor down, to prevent damage to the accumulator (deep discharge). Since you use a Li-ion pack you should set the mode of your speed-controller to Li-ion/LiPo. Especially rc car speed-controller sometimes have the NiMh/NiCd as default. Look in the manual to change it. But somehow i don't believe that this is the problem since the voltages aren't that much different (2s Li-ion vs 6 cell NiMh). It's worth a try :D Cookie
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