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_Cookie_

Eurobricks Vassals
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Everything posted by _Cookie_

  1. PF pneumatic switch... ...i guess it's more likely to win in lottery
  2. Hello On the lego page it says the L Motor should max. use 450mA continuous. So the regular consumption is 9V * 0,45A = 4,05W http://powerfunction...ault.aspx#88003 Sure, you can get a bit more out of it, but 11W... ~170% more is a bit... "life shortening" :D (just my guess) Cookie
  3. Yes i changed it, had wrong memory of it since i personally don't own this accu. I looked it up on the lego page: http://powerfunction...fault.aspx#8878 Cookie Edit: Hmm if your device starts blinking immediately, then it's either already full (which i would dislike pretty much... fully charged LiPO hanging for weeks/months in stores?...) or defective. I guess you should just drain it with some Motors to see if it works. Edit2: Can't believe lego would make such a huge mistake on that... or? :D
  4. Hi, blinking = full constant light = charging As with all LiPO accus, they can permanently lose some capacity if they are lying around fully charged several weeks. If you know you won't use for a long time, charge it halfway up. If you use/charge it weekly you don't need to worry about it. Cookie
  5. Got the 42030 and 42028 for 200 euros (+5 shipping) from valuebrick.at yesterday. Don't know why, but the building time of the 42028 was more pleasing...
  6. Hello, A couple of years ago, i used a 3 cell (3s , 9V = empty and 12.6V = full) lipo battery on the 9V System Motor, worked fine BUT you can't let them draw the same Ampere as before (will get warmer otherwise). Today i would use a 3s lifepo4 pack. It has 6V when empty and 10.8V when full. 6 AA = 9V Well, i guess you answered that yourself :D Cookie
  7. - RC planes - Sometimes sth. with Microcontrollers - gaming (Starcraft 2, DayZ SA and other steam games) - Anime (currently rewatching Inuyasha) Current project: custom "nxt-like" brick
  8. Omg... this is awesome and soooo small And that timing. I'm also working on a project to use my normal radio controller with +1000m range... but it's waaaaay bigger (and may over-sized in terms of current handling) I think I'll throw in some $ for your coffee Cookie
  9. Hm, the Pullback-Motor idea in the other flight thread could work
  10. I think that's my favorite MINI so far The Frontloader looks great with that small count of parts.
  11. Hello, I'll just toss in my experience with normal RC planes (those three points are common): - 3D or vertical flight: 200W/kg - Average flight (trainer model): 150W/kg - Glider (with good aerodynamic profile): 100W/kg (or less, if it is built really good) I don't know the output of regular Lego Motors, but given that they can run hours (?) on simple AA batteries... shows that they won't deliver >10W. And as Heppeng said, you'll need a strong battery (a lipo or lifepo4, cheap AA batteries won't even hold their voltage at >1A). Oh, and about the KV: example 1000KV = 1000rpm/V (@idle !). At 10V it would have 10000rpm, now subtract ~20-30% (depends on propeller) loss and you're at 7000-8000rpm. Greetings, Cookie
  12. Hi, sooo... im back into lego once again :D In the past it was less interesting since i had no one to share my ideas with (you know those guys in school... they always picked out those with 'in their eyes' childish hobbies). My last set was from 2004: Now: Christmas 2012: 8110 Unimog Christmas 2013: 42008 Service Truck then they rolled in... Birthday 2014: 42009 Mobile Crane Mk II, 42025 Plane, 42022 Hot Rod, 42002 Hovercraft Just 1 week ago: 9398 Crawler I'll stick with the technic part, it's the most fun for me to build with So what am i doing now? Saving for the 42030 and... trying to develop my own 'NXT like' brick (may not be that userfriendly... but... yeah... lets see ) Your new Member, Cookie
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