Beck

Thanks very much; glad you like it. The model can actually navigate R40 curves, albeit with serious overhang. If you really want to scale it to 6 wide, the correct length would be 40 studs, which can easily navigate R40s.

The Jerry Seinfeld one really cracked me up! Very funny!

Looks very nice. The combination of tan, red, and silver work well together. Does the truck have any suspension or pendular axles? Is the hydraulic cylinder on the “front” of the trailer for decoration only?

@grego18f I have experimented with tandems for almost 2 years now and have found a simple fix for the slipping even under the greatest stress. Use part 42003 on either side of the 5x7 frame (with 2l pins)and connect the technic axle holes with axles and 7l beams. The 12 tooth gear should sit inbetween the two beams. There’s an lxf for download if you’d like here: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Beck/technic_mocs/8x4-chassis-pf-1.16-scale

I encountered a very similar problem a few days ago, but with all of the profiles. When I pressed start nothing happened and the second time an error message popped up. Turns out all I had to do was update my OS on my iPhone 6.

This model really pushes the boundaries of what can be done with lego. I had to watch the video twice! I have a few questions in regard to the tracks. In the video it is obvious that you used custom built track links. How sturdy were these? Did you have any problems with the links breaking under the immense weight? Did you have any problems with the drive sprockets? Were any of the tread links scuffed after driving the model around? I'm also curious to see how you built the turntable.

Looking good! however I am concerned that the front wheels will rub against the wheel arches when you attempt to steer. I would get two of the arch pieces for testing purposes before you purchase all of the parts. I would also take into account that it should also be able to steer when the suspension is compressed as well.

Damn... that's... masterful! I'm most impressed by the wheel arch. Although I must say it does not look like a technic model in any way.

I would opt to add the "glass" 1x2x2 for the sole purpose of structural integrity.

Yes, thank you!

@efferman I really really like your design, but I'm not quite sure that those technic panels will look good with a brick built model, if that's what you're planning. If you do keep the panels, I would put something on the exposed technic hole like a plate 1x1 round, perhaps. I hope you don't forget your TGS project; I'd really like to see how it turns out. Also, would it be possible for you to send me the file for your rear tandem axle that you were going to use on the TGS, as I'd really like to use it on a project I'm working on.

There are a few problems: 1. The availability of functional micro motors. Not to mention the price. 2. Torque would be an issue unless you wanted to modify the switch itself. I even tried gearing down a micromotor, which proved to be useless. With all of the external structure required for the micromotor to be able to connect to the valve you might as well just use the more reliable servo.

@jrx Wow very similar design. I guess it proves that we have one of if not the best design; however, I would swap the 3L pin for one of these and a 2L pin.

Here's my design: Just add the pneumatic valve on the two pins with the switch inside of the connector part on top. Can't say if it's the smallest, but it's been immensely useful for me.

Nope, going to wait until it is finished which will be around New Year's Day hopefully.

Thank you both @Hod Carrier as well as @ColletArrow. I already saw space's design and it looks fantastic; however am trying to build a Stadler Allegra ABe 8/12 in 6 wide so the bogie must be hidden behind plates on either side. I am worried that It would be too wide to pivot in a < 6 wide width. I scaled the train and the bogies would have to be placed 24 studs apart and the carriage length would be 35 studs. Yeesh! @mtrkustoms What do you mean by old 12v rails? I know that the old lego rails were seperate from the sleepers, but aren't they built for "standard gauge" (4 stud gauge)? I'd love to hear more.

Hello everyone, I am currently working on a narrow gauge train for my winter village. I was wondering what the maximum spacing between two power functions wheels could be to be able to navigate the 2 stud wide curve? Thanks in advance, Beck

Feel free to use it.

The sides with the lights are very hard to get right, so I would keep them as they are now. Here's what I did (keep in mind this is a WIP as well) for the center part:

Good to see that you've gotten back to building! Ok so I really like your bodywork so far, but I would change the plate or brick behind the headlights to be LBG or if you want to get fancy you could use metallic silver (using plate 1x1 and plate 2x2 corner). To address your axle: I really like your axle frame design, but I honestly believe using knob gears and not using the differential are mistakes. Firstly, if you don't want to use a diff, just use regular toothed gears. Knob gears are not meant to be used in place of regular toothed gears and contrary to common belief, they are not more robust. Secondly why don't you want to use a differential? Its diameter is not that much more than the three stud thick design you already have built. Unless you wanted to make your axle even skinnier, I see no reason to not use the differential. PS Do you ever think you're going to build your TGX IRL?

It was implied.

I like your progress so far. I don't see any problem in scaling down the model; however I am firmly against doing so simply because you want to use the Mack as the prime mover. Firstly I think it is a mistake to turn what should be a fun build from your own imagination to something reliant on a LEGO kit. Furthermore, the Mack Anthem specifically is juxtaposed with the type of trailer you are building. A trailer crane almost never would be hauled by a sleeper cab especially since the Mack's sleeper is so massive. A minor problem in my eyes is the color. The mack is all gray and I just don't think it would go well with a black and yellow crane. If you are enjoying the build more than the previous scale, I think you should keep going. Nevertheless, I don't think you should use the Mack as the prime mover; build your own.

Although I cannot inform you of the unique aspects of Hong Kong crane trucks, I can tell you that crane trucks vary from country to country even with the same crane manufacturer and truck manufacturer. The difference lies in the body builder. The body builder is often a regional company that mounts the crane to the truck chassis with a custom bed. The way in which the crane and bed is mounted to the body, the placement of the outriggers as well as the specific equipment often give the truck a unique regional "look." For example here are two very similar cranes: effer 2655 and effer 2755 both on 5 axle trucks Hope this helps.

I have the same sentiments as @Ron Dayes. I worked very hard to scale Liebherr R956 Excavator to 1:47, but could not be posted in the scale modeling forum since it is smaller than 1:20. The only viable solution in my opinion would be to create a Scale modeling sub-forum for scales below 1:20. Although one might argue that it is best suited for the town forum, the feedback and interaction of topics for small vehicles is minimal to non-existent. From what I have observed, the town forum has narrowed its range of engaging topics to layouts and buildings.

Ingenious and effective! I like how you are able to communicate your message without speaking in your videos.