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Tommy Styrvoky

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Everything posted by Tommy Styrvoky

  1. If too much pressure builds up I think the hose would just pop off, rather than destroy the pneumatics.
  2. A Needle nose pliers for axles, A butterknife for separating plates/ tiles, jewelers flat-head screwdrivers for prying out small pieces, and forceps for getting pieces out of the deep areas.
  3. Higher quality render, though I wish I could have smoothed the entire mesh out, as the knob gears and the entire model is low poly. Lego Sherman Crab transmission Blender Render by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  4. I have a second render is coming, I exported the .3DS file from Ldview, so I am am making a higher quality render of 1000 samples in Blender, the only problem is the Ldraw parts are low polly, and I am unable to smooth the textures for some odd reason.
  5. I here's a better render of the transmission Lego M4 Sherman Crab transmission (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  6. Lego M4 Sherman Crab (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Finally after 2 months of work, I present my latest model, a 1/18th replica of a M4 Sherman with a mine clearing flail. This model is one of my most complex models I have built. It houses 7 Power functions motors (2XL, 2L, 2M, 1 servo), 3 IR receivers, and a 8878 rechargeable battery. Photo of real vehicle with flail in operation Design of model This vehicle has been a dream of mine to replicate a M4 Sherman ever since I began building tanks. There was a lot of planning over the past year to the design of this, there are different components from other tanks of mine that I combined to build a ultimate version of a Sherman. There is little space left inside, as the transmission, electronic clutch braking mechanism, and flail components take up all of the lower hull space, there was little space for the turret's mechanisms to be routed into it. The gun's elevation is controlled by a mini linear actuator that is located below the turntable and rests on top of the mechanism that shifts the gears for the transmission, and elevates/depresses the flail. The first Sherman I built was my 3rd tank of a larger scale, it was designed to replicate a British version of the Sherman, the Sherman Firefly. It was flawed in several locations, but I wasn't pleased with certain components of it, the suspension was inaccurate for the early version of the Sherman, as it uses VVSS(vertical volute spring suspension). My model had HVSS (horizontal volute spring suspension), this version of suspension is only used on later variants of the M4A3E8 Sherman(vehicle used in Fury). I attempted to build another version of a Sherman in the fall of last year, but it suffered from the same issue, the suspension was incorrect in size, I decided to scrap the project and build other vehicles instead until I found a better, more accurate solution. I decided to use the Torsion bars from the Hetzer, as it would provide the proper angle for the suspension swing arms, and be low profile, so the hull could mount the Transmission from my Tiger I. The transmission takes up nearly the entire 3/4 of the lower hull of the vehicle, it fits between 10 studs of free space, and has 2 gear ratios, a 1:2084, and a 1:1.3474. The remaining space of the lower hull is taken up by the electronic clutch braking mechanism (this creates the effect of the real steering mechanism of the M4 Sherman, to steer one track's power is diverted to the other track, and the unpowered track is braked). The space behind that is for the 8878 rechargeable battery. Another complex component for the Sherman is the turret and the transmission housing cover, these pieces have a complex shape to them, and are both round. The transmission housing cover is situated at the front of the vehicle, where the final drives interface with the transmission. It took 5 revisions of it to cover the knob gears behind it, and retain the proper shape. The turret was difficult too, but I broke it up into 4 different shapes that could be replicated in bricks and be combined to produce the proper round shape. Those components being the sides, top, mantlet, and rear bustle. The sides and bustle were the most difficult to replicate, as the bustle has a complex protrusion off of the back of the turret that is used to house the radio. The sides were difficult as they had to slope upwards to to roof of the turret. Sherman Firefly from over 2 years ago The current model isn't entirely perfect, the major imperfections being the height of the center portion of the hull, and turret size. The hull is 2 studs too tall, as it needs to mount the flail's L motor for power, and the main axle that powers the flail's Linear actuators has to have a directional change. The turret is slightly too tall, but this was to compensate for the height of the hull, it looked too small, and the mini linear actuator made it taller. If a standard version of a M4 Sherman would be built, it wouldn't have these issues, because of the internals, though I am pleased with how it looks, it could still be improved. History The Sherman crab was designed to clear minefields the Allies would encounter during the Normandy landings, there are several other Flail vehicles used too, but I chose the Sherman variant.I will spare the remaining bits, as this post is getting long, more information here if anyone is interested in the history of it. http://www.dday-over...g/crab_tank.htm Photos Lego M4 Sherman Crab (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr As some may know I will have college coming this fall, so this will be my last MOC for a long time, I am uncertain if I will have time to build something large over any breaks, though there is LDD and Ldraw , it isn't the same as working with real bricks. I do have big plans for next summer, as I suspect that will be the next time I can work on a model.... 1/15 MAUS... but more information on that come in a couple weeks.
  7. Great job, i'm guessing it uses .04 in and .02 in. for thicknesses of styrene. I wonder how the nice radius was created for the edge of the bucket, as I use styrene for scratch building in some of my 1/35 Armor, but I find that a knife that doesn't have a edge to follow will skirt around. So did you use a template ? How well does it handle the stress on the teeth, did you use CA glue or a plastic cement to weld the parts together ?
  8. I may be deciding to not continue with this project, as I need to devote more time to other more important Mocs, as I have a limited amount of time until college comes, I hope to finish a model that has been worked on for over 2 months, and I hope to make instructions for it too. sorry
  9. Cool, but i'm not much of a fan of using the modified connectors for the towballs, there has to be a way of making the valves function without the modified pieces.
  10. Well I know the engines look a bit odd, but the body will look like a normal model A style street rod. Besides that I am unsure of what to consider a major transformation, I want to keep it practical, as the Ram is useful, and I have hardly any room with the PF components, I feel that puts motorized models at a disadvantage, as it takes up lots of space in the chassis and requires complex drivelines to deploy the weaponry for battle mode.
  11. I see there may be a solution using XL motors, if it kept the current gear ratio there would be nearly 150% more torque produced.
  12. Great model, the suspension mimics that of the real configuration of the T34, I love how compact the Mechanisms are for the turret traverse and gun elevation, I wish I had a micro motor for those usages. There's almost enough space in the turret for a recoil function, maybe if a micro motor is used. Hopefully some day when I find the proper road wheels I can build one of these in 1/15 Are the rubber tires wedge belt wheels ?
  13. yah, I know i'm riding the line between the two, but keep in mind I want the vehicle to have a badass look to it and make it seem that the bandits pieced this together from a bunch of different vehicles.
  14. I want the tires to look rugged, for driving around in a desert wasteland, and I lack the tires from 42009
  15. Is there a LDD file anywhere? As I would like to see if there could be further improvements to the crawler assemblies.
  16. It will be red, I don't have enough tiles of any other color besides dbg, lbg,red, black, an maybe Yellow/brown
  17. yeah, I'm still uncertain on how the dbg will fit into the red, the chains are supposed to be belts like on a real vehicle, they drive the water pump for coolant, and the alternator.
  18. More progress Lego Defiler by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr I decided to do something more unique than a run of the mill V8 engine... 2 badass V6 engines with over 1000 horsepower.Though I may change the shotgun barrel intakes to standard scoops, as they look a little too small, or just make them larger. I also added a set of spikes that deploy from under the front ram, the radiator will be mounted at the rear of the vehicle. Lego Defiler by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr what better for inspiration of post apocalyptic vehicles than rat rods, here's a couple that were interesting at back to the fifties this past weekend. MSRA back to the Fifties 2015 St. Paul, MN by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr This Volksrod was interesting because it utilized a engine from a plane, it has a 6 cylinder opposing cylinders. MSRA back to the Fifties 2015 St. Paul, MN by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr MSRA back to the Fifties 2015 St. Paul, MN by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr here's a example of a model A body similar to the one I plan to mount on the chassis. MSRA back to the Fifties 2015 St. Paul, MN by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  19. No, it doesn't really, I have red pieces, but I was thinking that the grey would create more of a exposed metal look, maybe add some brown for rust, but i'm not sure yet, as "new looking body in the middle of a wasteland"
  20. What about using a mostly grey body for a bandit, and adding some colored stripes to it ? Just a thought if I can't get the proper shape with my red pieces.
  21. you could always swap out the M motors for L motors, it would have twice the torque with slightly reduced speed
  22. Done, I had a busy day, I was busy preparing a Ford 37' roadster for a car show, it included some painting and assisting my father in wielding new mufflers in place.
  23. Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Well It has been some time since I last posted a finished MOC, so I present my latest creation, the Peacemaker, a Chrysler Challenger Valiant body mounted on a Ripsaw tank chassis. It was a interesting build, as it isn't very common to see a car mounted on a tracked chassis. The model turned out pretty well, as I don't really build cars too often, but the vehicle lacked proper performance, as there are 2 L motors with 1:1 ratios to the drive sprockets. This was a attempt to create a fast vehicle, but it lacks torque. The filming of it allowed me to do a couple new things with cameras, I built a small motorized dolly that I could mount my camera on for certain angles of the Ripsaw in action. This MOC features -suspended pendular bogies -V6 engine powered by adder between the 2 L Motors Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr Lego Peacemaker (RC) by Tommy Styrvoky, on Flickr
  24. here, let me fix the links to the images. to link images just put [.url]image url[./img] without periods.
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