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Everything posted by Toastie
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BREAKING: The Orient Express Train approved in LEGO Ideas
Toastie replied to koraldon's topic in LEGO Train Tech
No chance - Ms. Toastie (CFO here) will not approve that. Best, Thorsten -
Hmmm - any set numbers for these? If these are PF then the motors connect either to the PF receiver (and battery box) OR to the Buwizz. The latter uses RF (Bluetooth LE) for control, the former IR light. So it is one or the other, I guess. Best, Thorsten
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BREAKING: The Orient Express Train approved in LEGO Ideas
Toastie replied to koraldon's topic in LEGO Train Tech
8/10 wide - it does not fit on my layout. And 3000 pieces ... I'm out: This is going to be another money monster But other than that: Good for some of us train heads!!! All the best, Thorsten -
... oh that is (at least) likely ... ... and also what I was trying to say: In a scenario, where the number of newly enrolled students declines significantly (as is the case in the university I happen to work the case, as everywhere in Germany, particularly in the natural since curricula), it may not be advisable to do business as usual and just hammer the folks as "we" did for decades now, where "them failing" was not affecting "us", because there were simply enough of them ... OK, this behavior is by definition the worst, I can think of, but let us assume I was a bit alone with that opinion. When there are no students anymore, the existence of a teacher becomes superfluous. Some of my colleagues just don't get it - they define themselves and their role by their sheer greatness. When the activity in a forum is (apparently) declining, then I'd suggest to simply be polite (liking the stuff or format of presentation or not), take a deep breath, and then express your opinion in a way that is taking into consideration, that for some "the world's biggest" may actually mean "in the world I live in, it is the biggest" - in parallel to some of the "world series'" that are only played out in the US - and then make suggestions how to "improve" or better "elevate" a post. And all that is just my very own, self-centered opinion. Best wishes, Thorsten
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True! Best Thorsten
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Really nice in 12V!!! Wow. But actually there is no need for the buffers between engine and tender (and as far as I know, these types of steam locomotives and for sure the 23 never had them) as the engine without tender and vice versa is a bit on the non-functional side . Yes they had that in the 7777 book, but why not taking out their errors . Other than that: Beautiful! Best wishes, Thorsten
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Cut the tabs of a 9V train motor (what you'll eventually do anyway, when the motor burns out upon frequent use), remove the bottom, remove one axle, put it back together (it does not snap in anymore, but when reassembled, it also never falls apart), and do the 9V-forever-XMas-run. Best, Thorsten
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I truly understand your feelings. Exactly this is why I will never post anything Technic related I made in the Technic forum - these folks are too brilliant and too experienced - it is just way over my top, regardless of what I come up with. I won't cry through - I guess I am too old - I'd just let them rant and, well, do other things. And this is what I call a reasonable and actually educational advice. As we all want folks here on EB to learn, and excel. It may also be advisable to just sitting back a moment and take into consideration how many different worlds unite here. And then hit "Submit Reply". But what do I know. Just take @Zerobricks comment in - and the motivation in it. Your model and what you have accomplished is awesome. As far as I am concerned! All the best, Thorsten
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[OcTRAINber MOC] LMS Articulated Railcar (1938)
Toastie replied to Hod Carrier's topic in LEGO Train Tech
What? You think? No. >It turned< out nicely - and given the amount of work, you put into the virtual construction: It was to be "expected" - as far as I am concerned, looking at what you have posted here (I am only "here") before. (I know, I know ... we do a lot of "simulations" prior to/along with experimental lab work, and/or to validate lab results, and/or, and this is the thing, to use validated model results for experimental design. Experiments are usually expensive, as is LEGO. This approach needs of course a powerful modeling software - let's say Stud.io - a carefully designed model - AND a highly qualified, experienced modeler, otherwise you can't come up with a carefully designed model in the first place ... and validation, and I guess this is what you have done in the past ...) But honestly: With your experience, the model looked - to me - "validated". An experienced virtual modeler does not use "Siemens air hooks or anchors" to fake it work. They know better. Again, but with deep appreciation: Congratulations! Honestly, I can "see" you sitting back. With a smile in your face that is - subtle. More in the eyes than in your face. And of course: A slight bow. Hopefully remotely matching your smile. All the best, Thorsten -
Fully agreed!!! And studs everywhere - just fantastic. Can't get enough of the contents of the pictures. True LEGO. (I'd put the lamp posts on the slope on some sort of hinges or the like to make them plumb ... but other than that, I am in awe) Thank you very much for these wonderful pictures - and a fantastic layout! All the best, Thorsten
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Oh they should, I fully agree. But: They play this song 24/7 over in Billund: Best, Thorsten
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What can I expect from official lego store?
Toastie replied to Ondra's topic in General LEGO Discussion
No coffee, no nothing else ... Best, Thorsten -
Building a huge Liebherr L586
Toastie replied to onzenuub's topic in LEGO Technic, Mindstorms, Model Team and Scale Modeling
Size matters ... this is all beyond my grasp - beautifully insane. More importantly: Is that a Whiskey glass on the last photograph to the right? I happen to have a similar one, and folks claimed it was such a glass. I doubt it - but who knows. Good luck with the steps yet to be taken! It will be wild, I am sure. Best, Thorsten -
Does anyone buy Lego but not open or sell it?
Toastie replied to ks6349's topic in General LEGO Discussion
Could very well be; steeply increasing world-wide shipping costs (etc., etc.) may have outrun the additional revenue raked in by selling boxed air to box-size-impressed customers. Then there is the increasing competition for shelve-space in the stores. This is heaven for the business and marketing folks: Figuring out what the most profitable approach is: Fewer impressive large but half-empty boxes or more but less impressive smaller and only one third empty boxes. And that as function of about 20+ variables . Best, Thorsten P.S.: Speaking of selling air at an excellent price/cost ratio - just saw this review over in the LEGO Town Forum: Picture #4 and citation from the caption: "We are used to it, but I still want to point out that only 25-30% of the box is really needed...." Well, OK, there are the bags and the instructions/stickers, the packaging process, enough air buffer ... let's make it 50% of the box are really needed. I guess it has to do with the cost-of-investment tag; a set with such a tag needs a box appropriately sized, says Dr. Prize Size, also called Dr ZZ, up North in Europe, in the Billund area. I also like step 1 of the instruction for the truck a lot (picture #5) -
Does anyone buy Lego but not open or sell it?
Toastie replied to ks6349's topic in General LEGO Discussion
True - but the Dark Side is stuffing the DHL box around the set box with some minor recycled "buffer paper". (Or you pick them up in one of their stores - all in Germany - so I guess damage by denting (as in breaking things) is not much of an issue. Can confirm that by experience ) With regard to having parts in bags flying around in a spacey box: I guess with enough space for acceleration, the impact of one bag onto another upon tossing around the set box is even worse. Just my guess, though, as I am not that much into perfect glossy surfaces. I scratch my bricks and plates upon repeated assembly/disassembly anyway . Best, Thorsten -
Just email them, will copy their reply, should there be any, here. Best, Thorsten
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Well, I believe, as of moderator absolution, this forum as well as this thread within this forum really is. So EB is the right place. Now, did you ask them directly? I find them most responsive (to my inquiries, at least). If not, I can ask them for you? Best, Thorsten
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Wait: You run the rechargeables: a) with the 12V power supply plugged in almost all the time and just using the rechargeables for power interruptions to keep the EV3 memory alive, or b) you charge them "off-line" and then drain them without power supply attached and then re-charge them with 12V? Case a) would not do much harm (other than unavoidable, natural material degradation), case b) may stress them much more. I have 8878's here that live "forever" (so far ) being constantly "charged" off from 15V DC rail power on my PF/PUp trains. Best, Thorsten Very nice(!!!), I believe @dr_spock did something comparable, but much simpler, for the RCX and other intelligent bricks, using 2 AA dummy cells, if I remember correctly. The thing though is: Once power is lost, memory is lost, right? I like to have some buffer power for such situations. In my world, which is trains on 9V track, power is a) dirty and may b) change polarity. This needs insulation and thus power loss. Yes, you can use super caps or the like - but then I also like to bridge larger power outages (i.e. running on all plastic track). This is why I like the "charging while running" option, which is, as far as I am concerned, brought to perfection in 8878 - and maybe even in the rechargeable packs for the NXT. No idea about EV3 though ... Best, Thorsten
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five vintage 1980's - 2000's Lego train building MOC's
Toastie replied to Murdoch17's topic in LEGO Train Tech
WHAT? Almost all black, and then that chimney? Come on. That monster did not distill/brew root beer, for sure, did it??? Best, Thorsten -
You guys should be able to build this from regular current bricks'n'plates - or is there any special part in this set that I am missing here? The bike? The stickers, maybe. But other than that? Just curious. Have fun, Thorsten
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As it may relate to the Dark Side - it was - forget it Mods will know. Best, Thorsten
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Does anyone buy Lego but not open or sell it?
Toastie replied to ks6349's topic in General LEGO Discussion
I believe, this simply depends on what you personally define as "compactly packed boxes". I have some experience with the Dark Side (as in BB Specials); with these, "compactly packed boxes" may actually become what it means: A package with close to zero space in it. These folks also don't print any glossy stuff on the box: It is just cardboard with a small sticker on it for identification. Just ordered a €150 BB Specials set for a friend - about 3000 pieces. The box is 50x30x20 cm3. I am not aware of >any< LEGO box for this piece count (and there are hardly 1x1 pieces in there, believe me, it is a large functional building) even coming remotely close to this small size. They are usually inflated in volume by a factor of 2 up-to 3 (have such TLG sets as well). I just want to get this into the clear. As far as I have learned over 58 years of the LEGO experience, TLG has - for decade after decade - sold more and more valuable air in their boxes. Size matters, as always. Be it just the box. They are not alone - the more expensive the product, the more inflated the box - everywhere. As LEGO becomes more and more expensive, so do the boxes. At constant piece count. Not astounding for a globally operating for profit enterprise, calling themselves "premium". Keeping boxes is absolutely fine. Keeping them closed is fine. Just do whatever is feeling fine - to you!!! That is all what counts. I have - well - this and that from TLG. I have kept only one part of a box - and put it up on one of my walls: The front of the LEGO Mindstorms 1.0 RIS - because it changed everything for me. All other boxes went into the recycling bin (OK, back then it was the trash). Hopefully, they make other boxes from them. Best, Thorsten -
Wasn't it because seeing the tracks is one thing, but seeing what the "entire" machine does (exhaust "color", movement of this and that close to the boiler, a glance now and then onto the valve gear) with a somewhat obstructed look on the tracks is another? But I only ride my bicycle, so others know much better. Best, Thorsten
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Germany calling If you order them from companies like this one: https://www.kugellager-express.de/miniature-deep-groove-ball-bearing-mr52-zz-2x5x2-5-mm then you get the max. tolerances as well. I would rely on these data - and simply ask for replacement, if they go out of specs. Best, Thorsten
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So this is really the core of the matter. Generally, a "best informed decision" on any "system" is simply solidly dependent on your "boundary conditions". You need to define these before you begin. "Scalability" seems to be another thing you want to take into consideration. If this is true, then you should address the latter first: How many and what type of remotely controlled items in your envisioned "system" do you want to operate (maximum numbers) in parallel? Never begin with 1 and then see how it plays out, start with the envisioned MAX devices and then figure out whether this is realizable with any available technology (to you) in question. Examples: PF = 8 channels (16 if you have the LEGO hardware, and you are willing to seriously code), "Authentic" 9V = block operation with some nifty custom electronic hardware and lots of wires, same for 12V. PUp: Go nuts if you are willing to dive into the programming frenzy. As @Lok24 said, when you know how to run ESP32 (compatible) microcontrollers, you can (e.g.! There are other ways as well) implement Legoino on your Arduino IDE and then flash the ESP with your code. Not only one but several, they cost about $10 - $20 each and can comfortably handle 6 PUp hubs each (Yes, they can handle more than that, but let us be grounded - as in: Flawlessly working. So this represents real world scalability. Once you have figured out that, you should move on to the functionality "range". What do you need? PF = IR with no feedback: You need to implement hardware generating feedback. And software to recognize that feedback. 9/12V: Same thing - or you go the hardwired 12V approach, TLG was providing back then. 9V: That is up to you ... PUp: Either put sensors on the moving train and/or the static layout. You need to program, though - a lot. Next up: Putting it all together. Who is in control? A smart device? A "computer"? Custom hardware? I believe you raised a really tough question. If I were you, I would begin with: What are your boundary conditions All the best, Thorsten