Toastie

Dear All, I'll update any of my Microsoft (MS) QBASIC programs related to operating Technic Control (TC) stuff, or any other vintage LEGO interfaces, or anything interesting (to me) in this BrickSafe folder: https://bricksafe.com/pages/Toastie/qbasic-programs MS QBASIC programs are 100% compatible to MS QuickBASIC programs, as QBASIC 1.1 (released in 1991) is actually a downgraded version of QuickBASIC 4.5. (final release 1988). QBASIC is solely interpreting BASIC code; QuickBASIC had in addition a compiler with all the bells and whistles and could generate COM/EXE files. So far, there are only two files: Q9750_10.BAS: Control program for #9750 as well as #8485 using either the UI (user interface) or user programs. QPWM_5.BAS: This is my QBASIC code mimicking the TC PWM (pulse width modulation) approach used in TCLogo.COM in 8086/88 machine code. Best, Thorsten

Well, bare metal BASIC, or GOSUBs OK? Let me guess: Applesoft BASIC? Best, Thorsten

Dear All, still making headlines all across the country, LEGO’s Technic Control set #9771 (ISA card for IBM XT along with a 20 ribbon cable, from 1986) is at it again – this time at the famous dance club “The Rose” … no – wait ... (Who you gonna call?) Executive summary: Added external computer control for accessing LEGO Technic Control Center II set #8485, without compromising its built-in keyboard functionality, button motor control and manual programming. Programs can be uploaded to LEGO Control Center II using BASIC or any other programming language on 8-bit (or the like) computers of the 1980’s (external program storage) – and on any emulator on modern machines with an interface providing 6(8) bit parallel output port. Only vintage hardware is used (1980’s), fully compatible with LEGO’s DACTA Technic Control 4.5V robotics line from 1986 (PC ISA card #9771 or equivalents) Figure 1: LEGO Control Center II (left) and LEGO Train Speed Regulator (right), the latter only used as enclosure for my little hardware addition, see below After that stupid intro, allow me to start over: One of my favorite LEGO Technic sets is Technic Control Center II, #8485, from 1995. The dinosaur simply blew my mind – it is both a brilliant Technic set as well as a wonderful display model. I took it apart about 10 years ago, as most of the flex cables had become brittle and simply snapped where they were exposed to light over the years. Around 1999, I hauled the box from Germany to the US (as my XMas "present"), where we lived for some years; Southern California’s sun was apparently too tough for the flex cables, I guess. Yes, you can replace these, but I did not know then. The actual Control Center II controller (I call it LCC II from now on, and believe this is part #2840c02?) itself is a follow-up of Control Center I, part #2840c01(?) – the only noticeable difference being an additional AC/DC plug for the former (yes, it says 9 – 12V AC, but - naturally - it works with up-to 15V DC without any harm; it lies in the nature of bridge rectifiers and classic voltage regulators). And the 9V electrical outputs are differently color coded; on LCC I it is blue-yellow-red, on LCC II it is red-yellow-yellow, from left to right. Manual programming of LEGO Control Center II (as it comes out of the box) What I found out is maybe not entirely documented, at least I could not find such detailed information on the behavior of LCC II regarding its programming. So the following is probably very well known to many of you guys. I apologize for not referencing that information, just let me know, and I will edit this post accordingly! The LCC II keyboard consists of 12 keys: N, S, W, E, A, and B, corresponding to motor A forward (AF), motor A reverse (AR), motor B forward (BF), motor B reverse (BR), motor C forward (CF), motor C reverse (CR), in addition to the following combinations: NE (AF + BF), SE (AR + BF), SW (AR + BR), and NW (AF + BR). Then there are the keys STOP (ST), PAUSE (PA), PLAY, ON-OFF, PROGRAM 1/2, RECORD. Programming LCC II is done – what a surprise – using its buttons = keyboard. In programming mode, LCC II records individual button actions (or “events”). An LCC II event is represented by a change of any motor status (from off to on, and from on to off); tapping the PAUSE button (off-on-off); tapping the STOP button (off-on-off); Upon throwing an event, LCC II records the nature of the change as well as a corresponding timestamp. There is one exception: When all motors are off, and then one motor is turned on for some time, then turned off and after a delay turned on again, the delay timestamps are not recorded; the motor spins continuously for the added times without stopping inbetween. If one wants to record “all motors off” delays, the PAUSE function has to be used. The PAUSE function is operating in two different ways: Record a defined delay when all motors are off. This is done by tapping the PAUSE button once (timestamp recorded upon off-on change of PAUSE button, PAUSE LED turns on) and then tapping again, when the delay is over (PAUSE LED goes off). When you then don’t press any button for some (delay) time, this is not recorded; only another event, e.g., turning on a motor, will create another timestamp. Automatically record all timestamps for all events occurring, even when all motors are off. This function is invoked by a) tapping the PAUSE button anytime during programming, e.g., right at the beginning, as first event (in this case, the PAUSE LED turns on and stays on until any other event occurs), or b) when one or several motors are on. In this case the PAUSE LED remains off as long as any of the motors are on, but the PAUSE function is activated. When all motors are off, the PAUSE LED automatically comes on, and all timestamps are properly recorded. This function is turned off again by tapping the PAUSE button a second time during the programming cycle. (I prefer using the latter function, as all my “delays” during programming, regardless whether motors are on or off, are usually placed intentionally. But: It is up to you!) What bothered me back then (as it did recently, when I broke out my LCC II for the hundredths or so time – and desperately tried to figure out what the hell to do with it – with no dino around anymore …), was that the LCC II is a “closed” system. Which is exactly what TLG designed it to be: A beautiful, programmable, “self-contained” controller box for three 9V motors. No computer required, two programs can be stored - with a total of 51 programming steps/events (41 max. in one program slot). That is perfectly fine (!) - but not with me. About three weeks ago, I began seriously searching the web for a circuit diagram for LCC II – to no avail. I did find a thread in the (German) “microcontroller.net” forum (https://www.mikrocontroller.net/topic/461564), which deals with an - unfortunately unsuccessful - attempt to fix a broken LCC I, with a focus on the microcontroller. This controller is apparently of the type “mask programmable Motorola 680X microcontroller”. Whatever that line is, I did not find out. In that thread, user “hinz” posted a pinout of this chip, which was very helpful for my interrogation of the PCB of my LCC II, but I still had no diagram ... Without any diagram available - I had to make one, simple as that (I bet there is such a diagram out there; I am an expert in reinventing the wheel). Or better: a diagram of the “keyboard” layout. Which means: Grabbed my multimeter, put it on beep-beep mode and traced the tiny tracks. Figure 2: The PCB of LEGO Control Center II; my button numbers (blue sharpie marks) are entirely arbitrary, and just for me. Note the rotten 9V cables ... And now what? Da plan: Solder wires in parallel to programming relevant keys, route them to the outside world and use external, computer controlled switches to program/control LCC II. The LCC II buttons are of the usual “conducting rubber mat” type used anywhere in el-cheapo world: There are two separated but close sections of blobs of conducting material (the black surfaces in Figure 2) for each key on the PCB, which are “closed” by the conducting material applied to the rubber mat representing a button. Now, what if I can solder tiny wires to each of the two button contacts on the PCB, route them to the outside world and close them with relays or the like? Well relays are not exactly 1980’s, they are more 1900’s – but analog CMOS switches, like CD4066 are! Sounded good to me, but when I looked at these tiny “feet” of the MC680X microcontroller, I almost gave up. On that scale, my 0.5 mm soldering iron tip looked like a device for roof repair, rather than for soldering wires to an SMD type microcontroller: But wait: There is more (there always is): It appears as if each of the LCC II buttons has at least two tiny “test points”, sort of arbitrarily distributed on the PCB’s traces, each represented by a tiny blob of solder. And BINGO! Each “button test point” is traceable to the micro controller’s little feet, and even better, each trace goes to an I/O port, should the pinout of the above referenced MC680X be correct, which I do believe. I copied that pinout into the picture below: Figure 3: Traced lines from buttons to microcontroller That looked pretty confusing, so I tried the usual stuff, when it comes to multiple button operation: The button contacts are often arranged in “rows and columns” and the microcontroller simply parses these: Raise a column/row to one logic level and see, which row/column responds with the same logic level = key identified. Go on with the next column/row and so on. I arbitrarily assigned the first 5 shared contacts on the MC680X to “columns”, and the 3 other shared contacts to “rows”. This results in the following key matrix: Figure 4: Traced lines rearranged to columns (C) and rows (R). The numbers correspond to the pin numbers of the microcontroller as shown in Figure 3. Next step: soldering (tiny) wires to the corresponding (tiny) test points and route them to the outside world. Figure 5: Wires soldered to corresponding button test points. And yes, hot glue is not my thing, but the wires needed to be fixed in place - somehow. Note that the original 9V output wires TLG used, which were also rotting away of course in a closed case, are replaced; compare to Figure 2. Figure 6: C3PO tapping into the keyboard of LCC II - the 8 ribbon cable connects to the little interface discussed below. White dot = pin 1. With that, the hard work was done. Now on to making external switches. As mentioned, I tried CD4066 (4 x CMOS analog switches), but that totally failed: It worked for some time, then motors attached to the LCC II outputs began to turn erratically, and then they worked again. I have fought with these ICs for decades now, just to fail again ... CMOS seems to be above my head, lower league TTL is my league. That left me with mechanical relays … and … good old 1980’s opto couplers! These have a “direction”, though, as the internal “switches” are transistors. Well, column/row testing has that direction as well, either H or L is to be sniffed. With my arbitrarily assigned columns/rows it worked, when columns are tied to the collector of the opto coupler transistor, and rows to the emitter (but not the other way around). This resulted in the following schematic: Figure 7: Circuit diagram of the #9771 to LEGO Control Center II interface. ILQ74 (quadruple optocoupler IC) can be replaced by any single or double optocouplers such as ILD74 or whatever you have at hand. Applying 5V to the photo diodes of the corresponding opto coupler via a 1kOhm resistor closes the LCC II button, and leads to the expected response. Next challenge: There are now 6 "remote" buttons available for motor control: AF, AR, BF, BR, CF, CR. Outputs A and B (the two yellow 9V terminals) are either forward or reverse; both cannot be (mechanically) turned on. Regarding output C (the red 9V terminal) it is different: When button A is pressed and held and then in addition button B and then both are released, motor C remains “on forever” (forward) – until button A or B is pressed again. The same holds true the other way around: Press and hold button B, then in addition A, release both and motor C is “on forever” (reverse). I initially thought that this feature should be kept functional with external control. Well, not required; a computer holds any line up, as long as you want ... Outputs A and B don’t have that feature, which enables two more key actions: If both outputs are externally turned on (N + S or W + E), this case is decoded by a TTL chip, which in turn activates the switches “PAUSE” or “STOP”. So with only 6 “exclusive” button cases in manual control, 8 “program buttons” can be controlled. And that is sufficient to comfortably program LCC II, see below. Here is how it works: The external control interface is a #9771 card or equivalent circuit, providing 6 TTL outputs. Its 2 TTL inputs are tied to ground, so it does no flip out upon collecting electrical noise. Bits 4 and 5 are directly routed via 1kOhm resistors to the photodiodes of the opto couplers controlling buttons A and B of the LCC II (= motor C). When bit 4 or 5 is H, the photo transistor in the corresponding ILD 74 opto coupler becomes conductive (“switch closed = button pressed”). Bits 0 and 1, as well as 2 and 3 are routed to the A and B inputs of the two 2-to-4 decoders of 74LS139. Their outputs Qn are permanently activated since their inverted enable gates (“/FE”) are tied to ground. The inverted outputs Q1 and Q2 (H=off, L=on) are routed to the opto couplers mimicking the buttons N+S and W+E (motors A+B), respectively. When the inputs A and B of the decoders = H (that would be N+S or W+S=on, which is impossible using the big yellow button on LCC II), then the outputs Q3 are activated, which in turn are used to drive the opto couplers mimicking the buttons “PAUSE” and “STOP”. These are very useful when programming the LCC II, again, see below. This setup assures, that all LCC II buttons remain manually operable (if they are not “closed” externally), so when this little circuit is not powered, LCC II is entirely on its own and works as coming out of the box LCC II is electrically completely isolated from the outside world. The power for the little interface comes from #9771 or equivalent, as done in Technic Control world as well. The other buttons (ON/OFF, RECORD, PROGRAM 1/2, PLAY) could also be controlled by further opto couplers, but #9771 and equivalents only have 6 TTL outputs. I really want to use this original LEGO robotics approach from 1986 for LCC II control. Note that the ON/OFF switch is not part of the keyboard matrix, it connects directly to the reset input of the (speculated) MC680X chip. Computer controlled programming of LCC II How to upload a program stored on an computer into the LCC II? Well, connect that computer equipped with #9771 or equivalent to the little interface board (with a 20 ribbon cable), and connect the 8 opto coupler outputs to the “extended” keyboard matrix of LCC II. Turn everything on. The PROGRAM 1 LED of LCC II blinks, indicating “ready for programming” – provided there is no program already stored in that slot. If you want slot 2 for programming, press PROGRAM 1/2 and PROGRAM 2 LED blinks, same as above. If you want to overwrite an existing program stored on LCC II, press and hold the RECORD button until the LED, which is steadily on begins to blink, indicating “recording”. And then run a program on the computer (e.g., written in BASIC) that emits the corresponding “button states” to #9771 and then into the little interface. The last command should be STOP. You can use precisely adjusted PAUSEs, as this key is also remotely controlled, see above. Here is an example written in QBASIC, that builds on my QBASIC code for operating #9750 - and now also #8485! And yes, the sub routines (e.g., LLC.OUT "XY") are somewhat elaborate ... LCC.PAUSEF.ON 'turn on PAUSE function - all program delays 'are recorded/timestamped LCC.OUT "AF" 'A on forward, button A pressed and held down, 'timestamped Delay 1 '1 sec delay LCC.OUT "BF" 'B on forward (A remains on), timestamp recorded Delay 1 ' LCC.OUT "CF" 'C on forward (A+B remain on), timestamp recorded Delay 1 ' LCC.OUT "ASBSCS" 'all outputs off, timestamp recorded Delay 2 'with LCC.PAUSEF.ON, this 2 sec delay is 'recorded (equivalent to no buttons pressed) 'PAUSE LED is on LCC.PAUSEF.OFF 'from now on, delays to be recorded must 'use LCC.PAUSE, as all motors are off. This is 'exactly the same in manual control LCC.OUT "AR" 'A on reverse, stimestamped Delay 1 ' LCC.OUT "AS" 'A off, timestamped LCC.PAUSE 2 'PAUSE is recorded, although all motors are 'off LCC.OUT "BF" 'B on forward Delay 1 ' LCC.STOP 'end program download; this also stops all 'motors without recording the motor stop 'event Example of a "user program" that runs within my 9750/8485 QBASIC control program. "User program" is just a fancy phrase for a subroutine containing subroutines ^^. Note that the dots are in no way any modern object stuff - QBASIC just does not accept underscores or the like ... but dots ... in a subroutine or variable name. XYZ_NM does not work, but XYZ.NM does. Calling a subroutine in QBASIC is also a bit weird: You need to use "CALL XYZ", when sub XYZ has its arguments placed in brackets: CALL XYZ(PARAM), but you can omit CALL when deleting the brackets: XYZ PARAM. I am happy to share any further QBASIC (or whatever BASIC dialect you speak) programs I come up with. Just give me a note. Note, that when AC/DC power is removed (= hells bells ringing) from LCC II with no batteries inserted, programs 1/2 are immediately lost. Well, from now on, this is no problem at all, as you can upload these programs from any suitable computer Lastly, I needed to make a case for the little interface board, as usual, that somehow “blends in” with the appearance of LCC II. But all these slopes and angles … so difficult. But wait: There is more, there always is: There is #4548, the “9V train speed regulator” (which does not regulate train speed, but the voltage supplied to the tracks ^^). The outer shape of the enclosures of LCC II and #4548 perfectly match, as if they were designed to marry. I happen to have a couple of the latter, so one got an “upgrade” - there is ample of space inside! Well sort of, my clumsy perfboard layout needs a lot of space as well, it really should have been much smaller. So, the rather big 2000 uF capacitor had to be relocated (these bastards hot-glued it to the PCB, for whatever reason, dang-it!), and about 3 mm of aluminum had to be removed from the heat sink; should not cause any problems, as I will run only one 9V Technic motor from that regulator. It now features two new ports: One for the 20 ribbon cable from #9771 and one 8 line port connecting to LCC II. And yes, on both LCC II and #4548 the 9V cables had to be replaced ... but this procedure is so well documented by Brian, it worked very well.@BatteryPoweredBricks Figure 8: Lots of space! The 9V train speed regulator enclosure ... This is the backyard: Figure 9: Left: #9771 equivalent (Arduino Nano USB to 8 bit parallel converter; center: #4548 as enclosure for my little interface, it does not pay any rent for using #4548's electronics; right: new LCC II port for accessing the buttons used for downloading programs. Is this monster enclosure approach reasonable? No, not at all, not for such a tiny board, but it looks good … to me. If the board was made on an actual PCB and the chippies were not socketed, it would easily fit directly into LCC II. But: It would look far less impressive … after all, I have something, I can brag about … All the best, Thorsten

Hi there, welcome to Eurobricks! Now I guess a couple of teaser photos of what you have would make it much easier to decide; as you don't want to sell, I believe this forum is OK. Should you want to post pictures: EB does not host these; put them on a picture hosting site (or any cloud at your disposal) and copy the links into your post. When you are using sites such as BrickSafe (and many others), the c/p'ed link will automatically show the picture when composing your post. All the best, Thorsten

Yeah. But, as far as I am concerned, it is entertaining to see how folks freak out on such topics. Here is another one: Should the LEGO imprint on the bricks replaced by GB? Because they make the better parts? AI ALERT, TROLLING ALERT, WHATEVER ALERT: No. It should not. Take a deep breath. And here is to feeling good! Best, Thorsten

Wait: You mean the LEGO Marvel "program" and the greedy bastards from LEGO control, right? Or do you mean the Mickey Mouse folks? Well, if these were greedy, the family owned company located in backside Denmark, only thinking about of how to make this world a better place, could have said: "No: Too greedy". But they haven't ... Best, Thorsten

Emanuele! #8bitisbetter OK, I clearly see the advantage of having a higher resolution image - to see even brighter the beauty of this wonderful locomotive! All the best, Thorsten

What about BrickSafe? Doesn't that give you another 10GB of free lunches? Best, Thorsten

Are these #10027? And do you consider modding them? Best, Thorsten

Or maybe they could not? That was the case in my family. I did not even begin to cry, because everything in the +10 DM range was totally not possible for them. I believe in really "knowing" (or better "feeling") how you feel: When an unbelievable wonderful jewel, that was never ever even thinkable of being in your hands suddenly is just there, or right in front of you, it is your own, and you are looking at it ... it can be simply overwhelming. Not only that, but I love your post ... enjoy this set you so like and love, keep these feelings deep in your heart ... and as this happened, you know ... there may be more, there always is! All the best and have fun, Thorsten

Is what they did "changes" or "additions" to the existing LWP3.0 protocol? Best, Thorsten

Got it - I am a bit underexposed when it comes to Marvel world. Thank you + all the best Thorsten

Did the same - but to no avail. Well, the 24 ADW is one of the things, but the outer insuation diameter of one wire is the other. I am experimenting with 24 ADW, 1.5 mm diameter wires - not >that< good - it works from time to time though. Just ordered 22 ADW (= thicker copper wires, as the blades seem not to make reliable contact with the 24 AW wire, at least on some of my older 9V terminals) AND 1.7 mm OD insulation; we'll see. Best, Thorsten

Wow! That is a very nice one. And even if there were any new stuff: It still would be a really cool design. I love the combination of the ground based (mobile) module and the module that can fly around ... reminds a bit of Apollo eagles - though they could not roll over the rough terrain. Really fantastic! All the best, Thorsten

I agree - and like to add: The most densely populated parts of the world will have to migrate ... after all, humans like the shores What a coincidence: Water will push humans (and all other non-fishy inhabitants of this world) to migrate because they'll need water. More importantly: What is an "X-Jet/Hoopty" type price? (Bloody German here ...) - sounds too good to me to not using it in conversations Best, Thorsten

Well, the same disaster happened (and still happens) to 9V wires from whatever decade, time, manufacturer ... this is really a >total< and utter failure. There are 9V cables doing fine until today with no sign of decay - and - mostly - others just literally rot away (so much for quality control at TLC). To be honest, in the electronics world, this process is never seen at all. I don't know any wires in any vintage piece of electronics dating back to the 1970s failing, because of rotting wire insulation. None. So what is going on here? 9V wires rot, PF wires rot ... man. I will have to replace so many wires in my LEGO world - as of now, there are shortcuts, failing sensors all over the place. On one hand, this is a nightmare. On the other - LEGO does not last forever, as nothing does . Plus: Replacing all these rotted wires keeps me busy. Old people need to be busy, should they want to live forever. Well, sort of 5 years more to go - and then: Heating up the soldering iron! All the best, Thorsten

It looks beautiful! I don't think Nature has only one sand red color at hand as well I also like to see the aging process - the result must be beautiful as well! That is the same with white (and some other colors) taking on some patina and looking ... mature. Very nice method! Best, Thorsten

Including some LEGO bricks, but for sure electronics! But honestly, how many companies in the "western world" ^^ don't do mass production in China? Even at moderate unit numbers; people "think it out" in WW countries - and then - off to China. They have a) the technology and b) the price tag, we like. And yeah, believe it or not, in this game called capitalism, the Chinese actually look at what the WW world figures out. Another surprise: They can do that as well and make it better. Oh: Yes, using them is fine. Just have it adonll done in the WW countries and see what the price tag becomes. And then proceed to @DonQuixote concern about not so well "funded" families. Best. Thorsten

That may be true. But I guess they meant: TLG is a luxury brand, which is extremely profitable. And, as it is with all profitable luxury brands: Their customers have enough money to buy what they offer because ... it is luxury stuff. Wait, where the heck is my Rolex watch? I mean, these are atomic clocks, so I have heard. Atomic is per definition expensive. Well, I just call it a successful strategy, in a rich women's and men's and everybody else's world Best, Thorsten

Dear All, I really love these "power" pickups, be it the recently discussed one here, or @michaelgale's solution. Now, with regard to feeding the voltage/power picked up from the powered track into a motor: I believe you need to have this spring-loaded solution of TLG's 9V motors, which forces the >flanges< of the metal wheels of the motor towards the track metal, for more or less "flawless" operation, in addition to the spatially quite separated pickup wheels in that 9V motor (negotiating "power gaps" in switches etc.). Just using the weight of the train to force the wheels onto the track may not be good enough. When you want to go the "power to controller route" (controller = PF, BLE, custom), you definitely need a means of buffering the voltage/power that comes via the pickup to the controller. Some suggested capacitors, that may very well work. But to get away from changing polarity and such issues on wyes etc. I suggest to a) use a bridge rectifier fed from the pickup that goes into a rechargeable battery and then into the controller. Back in the days, which is now 14 years ago, I experimented with the LEGO LiPo (#8878), not available anymore (well not from TLG, but certainly from ALI): The LiPo is securing permanent power to the controller and is recharged every time it is connected to the track via the pickup, reagrdless how crappy that connection is. This also means, that you need to have permanent DC "power" on some stretches of the track, like 15V DC from a laptop power supply; the LiPo easily takes that as charging voltage. It also means, that you need a controller on every train, and no original LEGO 9V motors present, as they would freak out. This also means that you can mix 9V and all-plastic track; the latter are really handy to handle polarity changes caused by wyes etc. Just my 2 cents, I have no clue how that would work on shows. Best, Thorsten

@Fluwoeb Thank you very much! I am repeatedly surprised, and much more so honored, that you guys even take the time to write! It really is nerdy stuff - and much more so, soo old school ... Yes, this is directly showing how the machine handles e.g. decimal numbers, which I do "for/next loop" in the BASIC code on an 8-bit wide data bus, which is exposed on the I/O port of the TI99. It counts to only 63 (and not 255) because the Interface A has only 6 outputs, directly responding to the CPU data bus (bits 0 to 5). The bits 6 and 7 of the data bus are used for the two sensor inputs of the Interface A. On the screen, left column, the variable N of the FOR N=0 TO 3 loop (with speech and text output), 0 TO 10 (with text output only), and finally 0 TO 63 with no visible output at all (where you can see how fast the TI Extended BASIC is!!!) is shown. In each loop, the status of the interface is read back, and then either "spoken" and printed on the screen on the right column (0 TO 3), printed on the screen only (0 TO 10), or not printed at all (0 TO 63). BASIC "prints" the decimal value of N; on the 8-bit wide I/O data bus the binary status of N is present: 0 = 0000 0000 1 = 0000 0001 2 = 0000 0010 3 = 0000 0011 ... 63 = 0011 1111. You are absolutely right! All the best, Thorsten

Thank you very much for your comment! It is always this, isn't it? The moment, a more than 40 years old computer produces its welcome screen ... it happened to me a number of times over the past year; but only the 99er shows this friendly colorful screen, as if it wants to motivate you. As said, I saw that for the first time in my 62 years old life in June 2024 and thought: WOW, now this is a friendly computer ... all others I have, show boring stuff like a one letter prompt, a copyright line, count memory up and ask for date and time, or just jump into a graphical user interface ... but the TI tells you: Hey, it's a nice and colorful day. Press any key! I love it! Best, Thorsten

Dear All, video "proving" that the 99er can control #9750 is on YouTube, edited main topic, sorry for the bump: Best, Thorsten

Well, they are: 100 pieces for €5. (Warning: Link to BB) Yes, this is really a difficult one! But I must say, you did a very good job! Best, Thorsten

Of course, you can! This is your work. This is not a publication to be turned into a patent, that would be tough, of course. But as a book? Hey, this is >your< very own work! Just get in touch with the publisher, @Lipko was suggesting. Figure out what the odds are and then do it. It really is worth it, as far as I am concerned. Best, Thorsten