Toastie

@cbqmp27 I don't have any experience with PyBricks and @Lok24 will know much better! I am just wondering: Do you have to tell some code lines, which motor you have attached? I guess not, as the hub figures that out (at least when running on the LEGO firmware). Also, the LEGO PUp L-motor is a tacho motor - it has a built-in rotation sensor you can use for different tasks and purposes, among which is "SetSpeed" rather than "SetPower". This is particularly interesting for the Crocodile. Using the SetSpeed command makes it run with - well constant speed. The firmware adjusts swiftly the power setting when speed is not as wanted. But again this is all pure speculation. Best, Thorsten

That is what I thought! My all-time favorite PBrick. Now, the RCX running LEGO firmware is not that fast to do PID calculations - it has to do that since that firmware had no built-it PID routines. I guess it runs on another firmware. The RobotC firmware (Dick Swan) was pretty fast - I did implement PID train motor control back in the days. And there are other programming languages as well. However, I cannot discern any rotation sensor. Without - no PID control. I also believe that the 9V Technic motors are in favor of using higher rpm's. Best, Thorsten

@Peppermint_M Thank you very much for that post. I believe this really makes a difference - knowing where it came from and what the initial impetus was, puts many things into perspective. I really enjoyed reading about the history of EB! All the best, Thorsten

Well, may the 1st be with you Day off here too, but wife called for major living room renovations, which started 3 weeks ago ... almost done though. May 1st came in handy for some cleaning frenzy. Anyway: Very nice and really impressive (!) work on reverse engineering that set. It sure needs a >lot< of Technic experience, visual interpretation skills, and then virtual construction. All the best, Thorsten

Oh, I really wish I could help out - but no interface B here, nor Robolab 2.5.4. Hope that someone can help out here on your issues! Good luck and best wishes, Thorsten

100% my take. I am nowhere but YT (videos) and EB - and for picture and "stuff" storage on Brickset. I like to add that we have >educated< discussions here on EB. This forum is as well a repository for so many LEGO related things, from today to going way back. The search function on EB usually results in a mess of hits, but Google has it very well indexed. Nice to read that there are some folks not going nuts on "social media" when it comes to LEGO. There is nothing wrong with sharing ideas, projects and results on these platforms (!), nothing at all! But for me, it is EB. Best, Thorsten

It really is, nice find! However I believe the authors are slightly off with regard to the beginning of LEGO robotics. They write that in the late 1980's it all began with the Interface B using serial communication. I may be wrong (and @evank as well as @alexGS and some others will know better), but I believe it was the LEGO Interface A using parallel communication on a number of computers via their built-in ports (e.g., C64) or LEGO interface cards (Apple, IBM), which started it all. Around 1986. The Interface A directly (more or less ) listened and talked to the data bus of the computer. Evan has composed an introduction to LEGO robotics on his website, which nicely covers the very early days: https://www.brickhacks.com/0.php Thanks for sharing!!! Best, Thorsten

Oh yes, that is true. The whole CM environment is so cool. I have the original software (not) running (on Win11 but) on my Toshiba Satellite 4090, and I really admire the work they put into that true adventure. CM was before RCX, and it was much more play-oriented than programming. More or less the same approach TLG tried (again, but in reverse order) with the introduction of the Scout PBrick after the RCX. Both, the CM and the Scout have rather limited memory space of accommodating about 400 LEGO byte codes - but you can do a lot(!) with that, because you can tap into the countless built-in routines for sound, light and whatnot. I really like this approach: CM and Scout for having fun, RCX for heavy lifting - I have no idea, though, how many lifts were done ... But you need to fire up your CM bricks again - even the moment it recognizes the tower = computer is a blast. Best, Thorsten

Hi Lars, no, unfortunately, I don't. It is one of the "last" ;) vintage items, I really like to acquire. So, on your side, does interacting of Robolab with the RCX work? And if so, how? Do you use the serial or the USB tower? Best, Thorsten

@Carsten Svendsen oh, I can see that so clearly; the Cybermaster PBrick, even without all the bricks and builds, is a true blast! And Technic Gold. I never had any Cybermaster sets back then, but recently got hold of a couple of CM PBricks and RF towers; they sell for next to nothing on BL, which I do not understand. Well, actually I speculate that these $5 prices are caused by the often faulty motors, where the disk magnets inside were corroding; the same issue some 9V Technic motors had, even with Chromium plated magnet surfaces. I bought about 8 CM units and could assemble two fully working PBricks. Changing the motors is, due to the wonderfully designed circuit board, really easy. And on each faulty unit, you still have the third motor output (9V 2x2) working! Now, with regard to VMs, serial ports, and so on: If you want to program these beauties, just install the BricxCC suite on any modern (Win11, 64 bit - works) computer, get an USB2Serial adapter, plug that in, run device manager, find the COM port number of that adapter, edit the address to < COM 8 (if necessary, simply move anything modern occupying the low COM port address space to port numbers > 8), run BricxCC, choose CM, choose the COM port of your adapter and then program, remotely control, monitor ... your CM PBrick. It is really cool - and does not need any line of sight. I have so much fun with these! All the best, Thorsten

Hi Lars, unfortunately, I don't have Robolab. However, Google tells me that it was intended to be used for programming the RCX and the NXT. The RCX uses either the serial or the USB tower, the NXT a USB cable or Bluetooth. As per Google, Robolab 2.9 does not support BT - that leaves you with the UBS cable for the NXT; I would not know how to attach the NXT via a serial cable. The only "RS232" only device in your list is then the interface B, correct? That works with a USB2Serial adapter, right? Or is your inquiry software related? As in: "Does Robolab 2.9 support direct RS232 communication?" I am a bit lost here. I'd just use the USB ports on the XP machine with USB2Serial adapters where required (i.e. for the interface B). Best, Thorsten EDIT: I just found Robolab on the InternetArchive, installed it and ran it on my Win11 64 bit laptop without problems. As it shows the RCX, NXT, and interface B on the "RCX/NXT settings" tab, and you can select the COM port you want to use along with each of those, I guess all should be fine with USB2Serial adapters, right?

No 9V motor though, no LED lights, no PF control, no proper wiring, no stickers, just the barebone loco (for € 36.95,- + shipping) And for sure, no concrete slabs on no concrete slabs wagons! These are really cool. Congratulations again, Emanuele, and again well deserved! I'd love to see some pictures of your soldering - I don't know anyone who does that that accurately. How do you turn on the lights? By switch or per PF remote? All the best, Thorsten

Hi Emanuele, very nice indeed! Very accurate and with much attention to detail. As always, that is ... and congratulations to decorating the front page, this is well deserved! All the best, Thorsten

When I need a piece/part TLG will never make (tailored electrical feedthroughs, LEGO enclosures for custom PCBs, and so on and so forth) I do cut, glue to make it fit. It is solely for my very own purpose - TLG's sold parts count on these is exactly >one<, and I believe a mold for producing that piece a a little over the top. Other than that: I go with the flow, as they say. Regards, Thorsten

Same here. Hmmm - is this what a large company does, when it runs out of good ideas for new products based on (way more than) half a century old principles? Do they make a new typeface based on their product? Or actions symbols. Or motion symbols ... in the end, the world will be rebuilt - using LEGO bricks. I am missing brick built symbols for feelings ... for starters, TLG could use #3176 or #39613 for true love ... would be a one-piece, no building necessary, hit-home symbol. No idea what's going on ... just guessing. Best, Thorsten

Thank you very much, Thomas! As said, you and Steffen made this happen. No joke or whatever. Well, I felt I have to. This is more than 90% of non-tolerated alternative brick usage - some call unilaterally "knock-offs" here on EB, regardless of actual source and source ethics - so I decided to show it here and then brag about it. The "12V monorail" is presented in the TrainTech forum, because that is made of 100% LEGO pieces. The wonderful train though - that TLG will never ever be capable of making nor wanting to make at any reasonable price - is inappropriate to show there. And so - I am here. And I am very glad you found this post and commented, as I admire your work very, very much! Thanks again and all the best, Thorsten

Well, inside the EU similar "things" (not exactly, as there are competing companies) apply. For sure, they will be totally complex and there are gazillions of rules and regulations. EU ^^, what do you expect. However, shipping is generally >much< cheaper within the EU than to GB. Brexit is Brexit, I guess. Best, Thorsten

Sure, that will work! BUT: Why not installing the full TLG EV3 software suite and have fun??? Just because some newbies or whatever that generation is called, call it old, outdated, whatever? These folks have certainly missed out I am a true boomer - and for me, an EV3 is a performance monster, hardly being challenged by many to the extent that it chokes or fails. There are some here on EB and maybe elsewhere (I am not elsewhere, so correct me if I am wrong) who came to that barrier, but mostly it is: "There is more. There is always more." as in PUp, Spike and Prime. Who cares? Do your EV3 experience. Enjoy it. Just get out the original software - it installs on modern computer hardware. Then play around. Once you feel that what TLG has provided is not enough - dive into alternatives, like pybricks. Make sure you have ideas for what you want to do with the EV3 power brick first. Then go nuts. Have fun and all the best, Thorsten

Hmmm - the question is: What is going on in the old tower? Memories come to life: Back in the days I spent some 8 weeks in Christchurch College in Oxford/GB to do some research in the physical chemistry lab. And my goodness, this college had some nice grass tennis courts!!! OK, back on track: Next to the entry doors to the old college was/is Tom Tower - and you simply don't want to know what a nice (party) place that was/is - back then in 1990 that is ;) Heehee - OK: You go down the road, into the beer store, stock up on beer and such, then just move on, stock up on - no, wait. Not smart: You gown the road, stock up on Tylenol, Aspirin, and this and that, and have still both hands free for getting some beer next door. Perfect! Now: What is going on in the tower??? Lovely building, very nice building techniques and: Thank you very, very much for sharing the instructions!!! Regards, Thorsten

The joke is not the text nor the picture, this is so 50's, it is the title. Finally, truth has come: It is "Legos" (ssss). Y'all were wrong. Happy Easter. Here is to feeling good

Yes: To get to the metal, the greasy stuff needs to go first. IPA is for that job; otherwise, the much more polar metal oxide removing ingredients can't do their job, as grease would not let them penetrate to the "problem". When you have cleaned the rails with good soap, a wash/rub with IPA is surely helping in removing remains of grease and such. I generally use this stuff for work on vintage plastic material as a first step; there is not a bit of non-polar stuff remaining on the surfaces. Also, your fingers/hands will be totally degreased , so it is better to wear some (cheap) gloves. Best, Thorsten

Very nice that this worked out. Now, I have said that here and there on EB - and I don't want to be regarded as wise-***. However, this may actually do a better job conduction-wise, than ethanol or IPA can do: They both remove greasy stuff, as does soap in any incarnation. There are differences; when you apply "plastic cleaner detergent" they will perform more powerful. In removing anything greasy. Conduction-wise, you want to get rid of oxides, sitting on the metal rail, that don't care about any kind of soap at all. Sure, removing greasy stuff will help. And if that is the sole layer affecting any conduction issues: Job done. Now, if there is more (there is always more ), then try metal oxide removal agents. WD40 is such a formulation, but it bites into the plastic as well, plus it adds residue, you simply don't want to have. There are many formulations used in electronics for doing just that: Remove oxide layers from metal, be it copper, or in case of 9V rails, nickel (alloys). One product that I use quite successfully, not only on 9V rails, but many vintage electronics projects is "Kontakt-60" spray. I am sure, there are many other products doing the exact same. Just to give you a hint (and yes, I am not affiliated with this company, not at all): https://www.reichelt.de/de/en/contact-60-100-ml-oxide-removing-contact-cleaner-kontakt-2010-p9462.html?PROVID=2788&amp;gad_source=1&amp;gclid=Cj0KCQjwzZmwBhD8ARIsAH4v1gU4Xb17IYrV9eIIqsGUDuvtqJf5gShwveDUt3liQWwnMU7YFokCOEMaAi8BEALw_wcB&amp;&amp;r=1 It simply works. All the best, Thorsten

Hehe ... the "th" - simply forget it: Try "Torsten". The "h" apparently comes from "Thor" - the vikings loved to give their names an edge ;) and the "sten" apparently comes from "stein" which translates to "rock". So my name refers to Thor's hammer's head, made from rock. Yeah. I run around in this world with a name referring to Thor's hammer. Thank you, my parents . In Northern Europe, "th" translates to "t" in the English language. In other words: >NO< reason to apologize!!! In contrast: I love your smile and laughter in the video - this is how it should be - always. All the best, T_orsten

Welcome to EB! That "whole" refers to the "plastic" of these parts, correct? Best, Thorsten

Evan, so cool! Thank you very much for putting this together! I am sure this will be helpful for people wandering back into the good ol' LEGO days. Need to put a pin in this; a video is, when well-made as yours, better than "where on earth did I put the schematics" All the best, and looking very much forward to other videos you will hopefully make! Thorsten