someguy
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Everything posted by someguy
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I heard a rumor, but that was all! Will look into it for sure. As to the couple grand for molds, no thanks lol. I do want quite large drive wheels though.
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I am looking to build a MOC and want to use drivers either equal in scale the PRR's T1 or larger in scale. I believe BBB XL drivers are still too small, so what is the next best option? Here are a few I was thinking of: 1) Contacting BBB and trying to get a custom set of deivers made. 2) Contacting the custom siderods guy and getting a custom,set of drivers made. 3) Purchasing Lionel T1 wheels and modifying a few bricks to use them. 1 and 2 will be pricey, but it will be closer to true lego. 3 will add weight, improve traction, and reduce derails at high speed, but will need to modify lego brick. Other suggestions welcome!
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I am looking to build a MOC and want to use drivers either equal in scale the PRR's T1 or larger in scale. I believe BBB XL drivers are still too small, so what is the next best option? Here are a few I was thinking of: 1) Contacting BBB and trying to get a custom set of deivers made. 2) Contacting the custom siderods guy and getting a custom,set of drivers made. 3) Purchasing Lionel T1 wheels and modifying a few bricks to use them. 1 and 2 will be pricey, but it will be closer to true lego. 3 will add weight, improve traction, and reduce derails at high speed, but will need to modify lego brick. Other suggestions welcome!
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So I have been doing some work in LDD on this. Even if I don't end up building it, it's a lot of fun. Here are two pics. http://imgur.com/a/v4iYh I made an engine module consisting of 4 PF XL motors. There will be 4 modules total. The A unit bogies turn from the bogie furthest inwards. A single universal joint connects the bogies. I was able to lower the unit by just resting the entire engine module on the bogies. The walls would be SNOT. The roof would be 2/4 plates thick. 2/3 plates taller than the big boy.
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Indeed :) But, I want to use the other UP gas turbine engine for the lead engine.
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I am looking at 20 powered axles or 40 powered wheels. http://imgur.com/TjJAkE1 Red lines (not boxes) indicate the end/start of a car/engine Red boxes around motors and axles indicate the motors driving those axles. This would be about 10 pieces of straight track long or about 50 inches long. I would use floating axles and lots of universal joints to get the power where I want.
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I made a mistake in my OP. I meant 16 XL motors. As to the why. My friend and I were discussing the possibility of a UP Turbine engine. I got curious how big it would be so I layed out the wheels, if it were built. I realize I could put 2 XL motors in this and it would run great, but now I have seen the potential space inside the loco, I want to do it kind of as a challenge for myself. Plus then ill have an engine powered by 16 XL motors. Seems like non lego batteries and ir is the way to go here according to the above comments. I'll need to do someresearch b4 I order anything.
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How can I power 16 large power function motors? I would NEED them all to be on the same IR reciever. No seperate circuits with seperate IR recievers. Would it be possible to open up an IR receiver and modify the components for the job? Could I even use a standard Lego battery box or would it drain too quickly? Edit: sorry meant 16 XL motors.
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2015 DK Model train get-togehter in Helsingør.
someguy replied to marook's topic in LEGO Train Tech
Cool layout, nice to see even the adults, who brought their kids, where having good time! -
Thank you! I will post some pictures tomorrow of the tender. Finally have the look I want for the bogies under it.
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AMAZING! These guys must work for Lego or something. Any chance you would show how you made these trucks for this engine? Looking for something similar for my next steam locomotive tender. I tried attaching chains before, but the boggie was wider than the tender itself! Link is in my signature if you are willing to share the bogie design.
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Looking at this makes me want to build my engine shed again! The turntable is my favorite part though!
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Have to appreciate how all those electrics are crammed into that little engine! How many cars can it pull?
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I am going for a 'wooden' look. Could be cleaned up a bit and have less tiles there I suppose. Will give it a try!
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Just 8 drivers. You probably saw the big boy in the background. I imported the big boy as a reference to make sure my next engine is the right scale. I'm trying to make this next engine look like it could produce (if it were ever real) a large amount of steam very easily and go super fast, so it needs to look some what stream lined and "fit."
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Thanks for the info legoman666. I'll have to see about changing mine so it wont derail on slopes. That's exactly how I have my tenders axles set up, only difference is I use bogie plates instead of turn tables. With the axles set up that way the tender runs extremely smooth.
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Agreed, it would still look good with the grey battery box. For the tender if you are having trouble finding a way to bend 4 axles (I think thats how many that tender has???) just link the first two and last two axles together then connect them together and to the tender by a pin in the center of the tender. ______pin_____ base of tender +(2-2) pin (2-2)+ axles/wheels
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Update for MOC. Took a break for a while and now I am working on the cab and firebox. I am trying to give the windows and roof a wooden look. Still need to add an ashpan handle below the firebox and put in all the levers and gauges. Four minifigs easily sit in the cab. Plan on putting more handrails on so I can have 2 more hang out of the back doors waving. I should probably make the roof a darker brown than the window frames to make the roof look like it has soot from smoke on it. Also I think the firebox is too far forward.
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This train is amazing! The details are awesome. I really like how you kept the vents see through. I think I detect a slight brag though, "im not much of a train builder" followed by an epic master piece haha.
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Looked up this Bullfrog Snot stuff and it looks amazing! This will actually take some of my engines off the shelf! So many more options with this stuff! Thank you!!
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After thinking about wheels slip for a while I realized the Big Ben Drivers I plan on using have no notch for an o-ring to give the engine traction. Does anyone know if BBB drivers can still hold an o-ring? I am not sure now if I should power this engine from the boiler anymore. Starting to think I should put 2 XL motors in the tender.
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What happened was I added a train motor and I had to add the 2x4 piece and then I removed the train motor. But, yea I did leave it in there for that reason. I did not know there was a button on the remote for that lol! Thought it was for something else!
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Instead of a PF switch to reverse polarity, try this 2x4 plate with contacts https://www.bricklin...=1&itemID=1333. Simply place both connectors on the plate such that 1 wire would face north and one faces south( just opposite directions). I did this for one of my engines so I could spin the control clockwise for forward instead of backwards.
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Thanks! The sharknose is definitely going to be tricky. I don't plan on making it too drastic because the front coupler has to stick out further than the nose will. To import a model just go to file drop down menu at the top left and then go down to "import model." "Control+i" works as well.
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Thank you! It's a lot of fun building big engines though, definitely worth a try. On my engine the drive shafts drive the flanged wheels. I am curious how you transferred power to the other axles though, I think it would help take some stress off the driving rods. If you could post some pictures that would be awesome!
