Henchmen4Hire

This is a great idea, though I think everyone should keep in mind that applying colors over different colors will make your results vary wildly (at least at the beginning anyway). For example, applying Testors's "Dark Blue" over white gives you something that looks like Bright Blue, but applying it over black gives you an Earth Blue. Of course, you can also keep applying coats of Dark Blue over white and eventually end up at Earth Blue once all the white is completely covered up.

Are you saying you'd add to the price of the model to pay for your time taking pictures and listing things? That's nonsense, might as well charge for the time it took you to go poop and the toilet paper it took to wipe too.

If you guys really want to do something about it, buy a copy of the seller's instructions then post them for free online.

All I can suggest is use a warmer light (incandescent or a yellow/orange christmas light) to light up the treasure so it has a golden glow instead of that cold blue one. Anyway, I love the idea of the two explorers trying to rediscover their ancestors' lost civilization, very cool MOC.

They probably use some kind of Tampography, here's a nifty video about it. Anyway, that would be a huge hassle to lug around the tampography machine, not to mention having to reset the machine for every single design.

Those disembodied heads at the end are super creepy lol

Meh, might as well: -Don't use Enamel paints. You can probably use them if you use a primer first though. Enamel paints tend to get sticky when they react with certain plastics, and then stay sticky forever. -Acrylic paints are usually a good bet, though not all brands are as durable. -Vinyl dye spray paint is pretty cool but not perfect. It holds better than normal acrylic paint though. -If you're painting perfectly smooth surfaces like LEGO then you might want to consider using a spray can or airbrush. Painting smooth surfaces by hand (especially if you're new to it) can be pretty disappointing because you may get lots of bumps, torn paint, hairs stuck in the paint, noticeable brush strokes (usually means your paint is too thick) and lots of other blemishes. You CAN get excellent results painting by hand, but it takes LOTS of practice, you have to know how the paint is going to react with every stroke. -Don't expect the paint to last forever, especially not on studs if you're going to be connecting things to them (paint will scrape off no matter what). Some decent sealant is enough to protect the paint from everyday handling and can last years depending on how much abuse the pieces take. You shouldn't have any problems with hairpieces since they don't take much abuse. -Some areas will require sanding to prevent paint from chipping, mainly the top of the legs since they're constantly encountering resistance every time you move the legs. And I don't mean light sanding. You have to sand away enough plastic so that the top of the leg doesn't make contact with the waist piece and scrape paint off. -I'll say it again: DO NOT EXPECT THE PAINT TO LAST FOREVER. Toys aren't painted with the kind of paint we can buy over the counter. From what I can remember, toy factories use paints that chemically bond with the plastic ensuring a durable and playable result. You aren't going to get that kind of durability by using paints you find at the art store. Like I said, with sealer you can make it durable enough for everyday handling but nowhere near durable enough to toss into a box of other bricks. Thems the beans, folks. Edit: If you guys want more info, visit action figure customizing forums for a TON of useful tips and tricks.

Some basic logic should help you out... cost of shipping to you (to get pieces to make the MOC) +cost of pieces +cost of shipping to buyer That would be the price to break even. Anything you charge over that is profit for you. Yeah, ebay/paypal charges fees, those are your responsibility, but I guess you can pass on that cost to the buyer.

I don't see what else S@H can do, it's not their fault you guys didn't know about the PO box details. I'm sure they have info about that on their site somewhere, some kind of "not all sets are deliverable to PO boxes". Shit happens, not everything has to be someone's fault and not every time is there a happy ending.

I've been reverse engineering people's MOCs lately, didn't think about doing it with official sets haha

Thickened it up a little, changed some things. I think I'm done editing it, I don't feel like brick building it anymore

Those half mudguards look very useful for vintage car MOCs, especially for the rear since they tend to curve upwards at about mid-wheel. This set is pretty cool, those are some nice vehicle designs Also, haha, space bees!

Hufufufufufu, it's still a WIP but you can see the shape is there already. All suggestions welcome! And yeah, this is minifig scale (more or less) edit: Well that was fast, I fixed the curve with some angled plates :)

You guys are having way too much fun with these reviews I love Andrea's hair, especially how it looks like a sweet Jheri Curl on the male figures

Oh Dirk, you're only 10 minutes out of the box and you're already leading a life of crime!

I was going to do a full review but I've pretty much lost the spark to write creatively anymore. I didn't want to just delete these few pictures I took so I figured I'd share for shits and giggles. Smash 'N Grab (5982) Price: About 20 Bones A quick note, this sentence from the set's official description (on Brickset at least) confuses me: The alien minifig is Squidtron, not Rench, or is that the tow truck's name? I'd name my space tow truck too if I had one. Purple and yellow is a wacky color scheme for the truck, the black flames put it over the top!, but I think it works for this vehicle. Makes it easier to see in space so people can flag you down when they need their Space Limo towed. You get these nifty trans purple cones, which is great if you got a MagnaGuard Starfighter without the figures. You can make one of their weapons and be sort of happy lol. Or you can do what most people probably do and turn them into some kind of potion or alien alcoholic beverage. Under the truck's hood there's enough space that with some rearranging you can build a little engine for it. The rear engines look cool, the knobs that you shove forward to launch the missiles from the grill are distracting though. Also, like a true cartoon villain, Squidtron measures his truck's hauling capacity in dollars not pounds kilograms (or whatever unit it is the rest of the world measures a car's weight in outside the stubborn USA). Space Police 3 sets are the only way to get Space Police 3 officers, but Squidtron's torso can be found in a small City set (Jet Ski 30015). I don't know how I know that off the top of my head, I must have seen it somewhere I like the SP3 helmet, the figure can turn its head even while wearing air tanks (Squidtron's not so much). By the way, what are the air tanks for? Are they supposed to be jetpacks? You can make them cotton candy machines if you want. :) "Shouldn't we be facing the camera?" "No! This worked for The Macho Man and it'll work for us!" Face it, the blasters suck, they don't even look like blasters, they don't look like ANYTHING. At least we have cool ray guns from the collectible minifigures to be used with this theme. The officer's face makes me giggle, I don't know if he's really angry or just really hungry for kalimari. The other side of his head is a smirky grin. And now, hijinks!

Hah, looks like we found the definitive Chuck Norris head in Obi Wan

I love that picture

Cool, first post now has the download link. I'll have to try MLCad to see what the hubbub is about

Haha, I can't imagine how terrifying the engine must sound, don't know how they could muffle an airplane engine! Yessss, more ridiculous cars! I could post the LDD file for this if L@go is okay with it. Thanksss, I didn't think the jagged details on the hood would match the fancy grill, but looks like it works if you guys are liking it

*highfive* :) Nuuuuuu!, I can't spend so much on LEGO, I already blew my meager budget buying parts for two of my other cars and I'm still missing red mudguards. I might save to build your MPV though. http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=64197 I can post the LDD file for this if you want, with the changes you mentioned. It's LDD, but close enough!

Mullet! BEST REVIEW EVER. All I can add is turn down all the way the ISO setting on your camera, you don't need it when you have that much light to work with. ISO makes your images grainy at high settings.

V-LV-42F Original: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=62444 Very happy with this one, glad I managed to keep the compact egg-shape. http://img39.imageshack.us/img39/5521/tduj.jpg

V-LV-43C A very cool little car, I thought it would work better in 7 wide (instead of my usual 8 wide) to create more of an illusion of length. Original here: http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=60580 LDD file here: http://www.mediafire.com/?2h33h26xnrl1b97 Tweaks to LDD file -Added plates behind front bumper to move it forward -Raised rear curves by 1 plate The doors are hinged but it's more out of habit since they're so restricted haha

V-LV-42D Saw some of L@go's awesome cars in this thread http://www.eurobricks.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=59579 and decided to convert some of them into 8 wide L@go made a car called The Longnose and mentioned a similar monster known as The Beast, a massive car powered by an airplane engine that still manages to look classy. http://autofug.blogspot.com/2011/07/beast.html I like big hulking vehicles so I made it and gave it L@go's paintjob It makes me giggle that it doesn't have rear view mirrors. There's a boring brown color to tone down the wacky orange haha The nose could probably be a stud shorter, meh. No interior details, this was just for fun. And yeah, a minifigure can fit but you have to change the roof.