Sariel

This one, but the mods are looking after you and removed the extra one. Just like they were looking after you when you called other EB member "your ni**a".

Hilarious. I'm done responding to your threads, it's a waste of time. If you want people to make effort of helping you, at least try to ask the correct question (and preferably start threads once, not twice).

Wheels on 8081 don't pivot so good, the pivot is where the vertical black piece sits, and that's easily 2 studs off the wheel's center. In fact, you could improve the pivot by getting rid of that yellow half bush used as spacer:

Well, if you actually built this gearbox in real life and not in the LXF file, you would realize that they are arranged this way for a reason - to keep speeds in order. With your "improvement", all the speeds are mixed up, 2nd is faster than 3rd and probably even faster than 4th. So please - you should not be using the file by TheLegoExpert.

Good job :)

Alright, this may sound like criticism but I'll try to help. Your model has the same problem like your previous one: you're ignoring some crucial shapes. The front end of the E46 is shaped like this, yet in your model it's a single line. You're building a model that will look like a brick when seen from above, like it was slammed into a wall or put into a compactor. The rear end of the real car is shaped much like a single line, this technique could work there, but not in the front. There is just no way it's not going to look weird. You should move the grille forward, move the headlights backward and completely reshape the front bumper which really adds to the brick-like appearance now. If you're sticking with beams for the bumper, try rotating them 90 degrees so the holes are facing up and down, not forward and backward. Then you can connect them with pins at angle and get closer to the real shape. I think the 8070 set could be a good inspiration for you - it uses a handful of simple techniques to create some very realistic shapes.

Sure, you just need to add half-stud thick beams as spacers.

Edit: a new and improved version of this design which is better in every aspect: Sequential gearboxes seem to be all the rage these days. With so many brilliant designs around, I wanted one that would be compact, dead simple and robust, and without fancy stuff like Servos, steering links, rubber bands, stepper mechanisms and whatnot. This is what I got. I specifically kept it 7 studs wide for easy integration with the chassis (between stringers), on the downside it's a bit tall. Other than size, the main advantage is that it just takes one PF M motor to operate, the driving rings are being kept locked by catches at all times, shifting works in full cycle - 1, 2, 3, 4 and 1 again, no "ends" - and it can be shifted by ear. No need to watch it, you just need to hear two "clicks". The only disadvantage I can see is that 3rd and 4th speeds add a lot of friction because of how the gears are arranged. But all in all, I think this is one of my most practical designs. Instructions: http://sariel.pl/downloads/

Not that I've noticed. But you could gear down Servo's output to limit lever's movement and make it stay in contact.

Just an idea. Surely not the world's most practical transmission since it's complex and has some friction, and it can get jammed if there's a slight misalignment of the driving rings, but it works. I felt like using two Servos to get only 4 speeds with my previous design was a waste, so I came up with this. Building instructions: http://sariel.pl/downloads/

Better late than never, I guess. Thanks Jim!

Looks very promising :)

Edit: the post in question has now been removed by staff. Well, there's this post: Link: http://www.eurobrick...2 Now, I reported it twice as inappropriate, 2 days ago, to no avail. Which, I guess, means this is perfectly in accordance with EB rules, and mods and admins aren't bothered with it at all. I have to say I'm seriously worried about EB. I'm just a regular member, I don't presume to tell mods and admins what to do, it's just that I was under impression we were supposed to be - or at least act - adult here. The person behind this particular post has a history of childlike behavior, including telling another member they're selling copies of his MOCs just to rouse him up - for which I believe he was scolded by one of mods, but that's it. I find it deeply disturbing that admins were quick to boot out Dluders, a real community contributor, over some petty personal issues, but won't do much about a person who's clearly at wrong forum. Again, it's not my job to tell who belongs here and who doesn't, I just did not expect to read stuff like this at EB. But hey, maybe I'll get booted out too.

Spectacular model and I really admire how you solved the piston engine problem :)

Yeah, I guess you're right.

Interesting, my impression now is that your version of the turret is slightly too short. Just a tiny bit, but maybe I'm wrong. It's probably hard to settle this, but this is what I got by comparing my Tiger with the blueprint (keep in mind, the photo has central perspective so things on top of the tank appear bigger):

Oh, you're building the piggy?

You may want to try something different that LAs to control it. They suit my needs, but they leave some slight backlash that may result in bump steering.

Here's a mechanical solution I developed for a truck I'm working on, simply because I was tired of all that extra space between wheels and fenders that standard Lego steering requires. I found out that pretty much the same mechanism has been used by other builders already, so I'm not claiming to be the originator but I'm sharing this in case someone looks for something just like that. Its applications are limited given that it's very difficult to add drive or suspension, and there's some backlash that makes it good for floor only. But for my truck's front axle, this does just fine. Instructions: http://sariel.pl/downloads/

I, for example, like non-motorized and motorized supercars alike, I think each category comes with its own unique challenges and rewards. It's true that performance of large motorized supercars is poor, but then performance of non-motorized ones is, well, nonexistent. I build to play with the stuff I made, so I would feel bad if I couldn't drive a model around the room after all the effort that went into it. But that's just me. I just wanted to add that over time my focus when building shifted towards accurate looks, and with this in mind I could accept a supercar without traditional Lego piston engine. I would be happy to see a realistic model of the real engine instead, with no moving parts, but looking like the real thing. I'm slowly starting to build Ferrari Fiorano now, and I have a strong feeling that rather than put oversized and naked Lego V12 somewhere, it would be much more interesting to model this accurately:

Sure: http://sariel.pl/2015/03/audi-r8-v10/

Thanks. These days I draw my stickers in Adobe Illustrator, it's a software I use daily for job which makes it easy for me. Basically, I put together A4 sheet of stickers in PDF file and have it printed at a print shop, on transparent foil or white foil, depending on whether I want a sticker to have transparent areas or not. Here, for example, the Audi rings on the hood are printed on transparent foil while both license plates are printed on white one. I'm sure the same can be done with many regular printers, it's just easier for me to go and get a whole sheet printed by a professional for a few bucks instead of having to worry about foil types, inks, printer settings and whatnot. So all in all, it all comes down to whether you can use Illustrator. Because with details this small, vector images usually produce better results than rasterized ones.

What happens when you're insane enough to try a studfull body on a supercar, in orange? Well, a year's worth of hard work, that's what. I have only one advice now: don't try this, ever, unless you want to start hating yourself. There's a reason why sane people stick with studless bodies. Anyway, the model has its shortcomings and it was really challenging in terms of work and budget, and I'm really happy I'm done with it. I never want to repeat this experience again. But at least it makes for some nice photos: More photos & some reading: http://sariel.pl/2015/03/audi-r8-v10/

Thanks, happy to hear this tutorial comes in handy. I don't really have any specific idea on how to write a decals tutorial because these days I mostly draw mine in Illustrator.