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dhc6twinotter

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Everything posted by dhc6twinotter

  1. dhc6twinotter
    That is really impressive! Love all the functions, and it's a beautiful model!
  2. dhc6twinotter
    The 11x3x2 panels are dark blue, but the small panels behind the front wheels are black with dark blue stickers.
  3. dhc6twinotter
    I think the reason why your u-joints are breaking is because there is quite a bit of stress placed on them when the suspension compresses. The distance between the wheel hub and your bevel gears is reduced when the suspension compresses and the halfshafts to each hub need a way to compensate for this. If you remove the 1l bushing on the 6L axle, the axle will be able to slide within the hub and will move towards the wheel when the suspension is compressed. You will need some spacers between the hub and rim to keep the axle from hitting the rim. There will also be some forward/backward movement of the halfshafts as the suspension cycles. The bevel gear arrangement doesn't allow for this movement, but this can be solved by using a u-joint or cv joint instead of the bevel gears. Because a cv allows axles to slide within them, using a cv instead of the bevel gears may also solve the above issue (depends on how much movement you actually need).
  4. dhc6twinotter
    Does anybody recognize the LBG part that is directly in front of the turntable? It's partially hidden by the orange panel and round 1x1light. There also seems to be some kind of grey panel or something behind the 12t knob sticking up. Makes me wonder if there is a new battery box, but that would seem kinda far-fetched.
  5. dhc6twinotter
    The tan gear isn't a knob; it meshes with the mini-turntable to make the boom slew.
  6. dhc6twinotter
    I think the links are just used to keep the axle centered. The geometry isn't really correct, but this is how LEGO has done it on the Crawler and Monster Truck. I believe there is steering on the model, but I suspect it is on the front axle only. The rear axle assembly doesn't look as complicated.
  7. dhc6twinotter
    The Canon PowerShot S110 has pretty good ratings, and Ken Rockwell's website says it's one of the best pocket cameras. The optical zoom is only 5x though, but you don't really need much zoom for shooting LEGO. These cameras run $250-$300. http://www.usa.canon.com/cusa/consumer/products/cameras/digital_cameras/powershot_s110#Overview I shoot with a DSLR and haven't used the above camera, but I think if I were to buy a pocket camera, I'd consider that one. Also, the use of a tripod and proper lighting is important for shooting LEGO. I'm don't currently have the space for a nice light box or 3-point light setup, so I shoot outdoors, usually with a white backdrop. A little bit of post-processing, like small adjustments to the contrast and saturation, helps a bit too.
  8. dhc6twinotter
    I would use a sliding red 8t gear on the center axle, then use gears to go out to the sides. Only problem with this is that the red 8t gear would probably contact the racks, but that can be solved by moving the rack away from the worm gear and using another 8t gear between the rack and worm gear.
  9. dhc6twinotter
    Sounds like a good plan!
  10. dhc6twinotter
    I drew up some sketches for a similar setup several years ago, but I tossed the idea because of some issues with the design. I never got around to building a prototype, and I hope this works well for you. It's an interesting concept. The issues I found: -All the gearing meant there was slop in the system and wheels may wobble quite a bit. -Steering had to return to center perfectly before switching modes, otherwise the wheels would lose sync with each other. But again, I never actually built a model to see if my concerns were justified. I'm curious to see if this works for you, and I hope it does. It's a neat idea.
  11. dhc6twinotter
    Sorry to add to the plethora of questions, but I do have one question: If we don't have a particular set, but do have the pieces in our inventory, can we use online instructions to determine which pieces we can use from our own inventory?
  12. dhc6twinotter
    Not sure, but probably not a whole lot slower than the speeds that don't use the friction gear. I don't think you will be gaining an additional 4 speeds either, but looks more like 2. Honestly, if you want to build an 8-speed gearbox, you will probably be better off using 4 driving rings. The design you posted above is intriguing, but the white gear is sapping power from the drivetrain. That being said, an 8-speed gearbox with two driving rings being engaged like you described above may theoretically be possible if you use a couple of differentials in there. Maybe.
  13. dhc6twinotter
    If you replace the white clutch gear with a regular 24t gear, the whole system will bind up when two driving rings are engaged simultaneously. Since you are using a clutch gear, the system won't necessarily bind, but you are adding a lot of friction to the drivetrain. Your gearing is setup for 4 different speeds, but If it looks like you are getting more than 4 speeds, it's because your clutch gear is working against your motor when both driving rings are engaged simultaneously, and the resistance is slowing down the output shaft.
  14. dhc6twinotter
    Hard to tell for sure, but it looks like you have 4 speed total. It looks like you have the following gear combinations to your output: 1. 8/24 2. 12/20 3. 24/8 x 8/24 4. 24/8 x 12/20 Note that for number 3 above, your increasing the RPMs by a factor of 3, then decreasing it by a factor of 3. This means your output speed is the same as the input speed. That should be correct, unless I'm looking at the pictures wrong.
  15. dhc6twinotter
    I'd say that's legal and have thought about using a similar system myself.
  16. dhc6twinotter
    That's awesome! I had the pleasure of seeing the shockwave at an air show in Virginia years ago. Pretty neat to watch. There's another guy doing the air show circuit that has a jet powered school bus, pickup, quad, and porta-potty. The porta-potty was my favorite, particularly with the fire shooting out the roof vent.
  17. dhc6twinotter
    We had a discussion about this a while back, and it's nice to see that both you and efferman have had good results with this. Using two turntables like this is something I plan on doing on my forwarder project, if I ever get around to finishing it.
  18. dhc6twinotter
    This is a beautiful model, and all the renders are fantastic! Thanks for all the work you've put into this, Eric. Really nice work. I'm surprised the L motor is strong enough to lift the boom, but I guess I just haven't played around with the L motors enough to know their true strength. I'm in the thinking stage of a large crane (AC-700) that I've wanted to build for a while, and there is some great ideas and lessons that I've learned from this build. Thanks!
  19. dhc6twinotter
    Looks great! I really like the variety of aircraft, particularly the A319, 737, and A340. Is the red and white plane supposed to be an A330?
  20. dhc6twinotter
    I'd like to see something like this: I'd like to see two 16 wide buildings, one with an alley large enough for City vehicles and stairs to 2nd level, and another 16 wide building with the bar (if we really are getting a bar--I have a hard time seeing LEGO would make a bar, but maybe it's a coffee or juice bar). A buidling with an alley is a great idea, and much needed for access to the rear of buildings once a block is complete.
  21. dhc6twinotter
    The prelim model looked better, but the final release looks ok. It's probably the only 1H set I will buy, especially since it has all the green panels. It looks like the "vents" on the fender pieces are molded, which is kinda a bummer, but still nice to see new panels.
  22. dhc6twinotter
    Wow....42039 looks no where near as good as the preliminary photos. I'm a sucker for green parts though, so I'll probably buy it. It will probably be the only 1H set I will get.
  23. dhc6twinotter
    I had a hard time finding a job in my field, so I've moved on to plan B. Yesterday, I graduated from truck driving school: I graduated number one in the class, and I have the endorsements needed for carrying passengers, driving tankers, hauling hazardous materials, and pulling double/triple trailers. The picture below is me with one of our 10-speed Volvos. We also drove an older 13-speed GMC-White/Volvo (truck in the background), as well as a couple old 10-speed Macks. Some of these driving jobs pay well, particularly those working around the oil fields. If all goes as planned, I'd like to drive trucks for several years and start investing in real estate. Fun times ahead. .
  24. dhc6twinotter
    Looks like you are using 6L links for your steering, but your suspension arms are the newer 5L arms. This is probably what is causing your bump steer. The steering links should also be at the same angle as your steering arms, but I can't tell if this is the case in your pictures. If you want to eliminate bump steer, it's best to have the steering links the same length and angle as your suspension arms. Also, your inner u-joints are one stud too far out on either side. Since you are using 5L suspension arms, you will need 3L axles between the inner and outer u-joints.
  25. dhc6twinotter
    Anybody have a good recommendation for a remote with a timer? A couple years ago, I was reading about a cheap Chinese remote on Amazon. It had good reviews and had a timer, but now I don't remember what model it was. It seemed to be a favorite in the photography forums, particularly for time-lapse photography (or whatever that's called). I can't find any info about it now, but maybe there is something better out.
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