Need some help on a new Layout

[kieran]

Hi all,

a while ago i posted a topic about a new LEGO room I was working on, well at last I am ready to add the tables for my new layout. This will be the first time I have had a fixed layout and need a bit of help. I have started to work with BlueBrick (which is truly excellent) and got this so far

The size of the green base plates completely covers the tables I will be building in the next day or so, its roughly 4m at the longest edge by 2m. My main aim is to have a few longs straights to see trains moving in a nice way. I also want to have a few sidings that I can keep other trains on. ( I have quite a few). My main issue is what to do with the middle bit. I do a lot with Minstormes so will automate parts of it a container loading and unloading station. I also have one cross over which may be good to get in somewhere.

I have a complete set of Monster fighters that I could use to set a scene, but not sure how that will fit with the ideas of automation which i think is more important to me. I have attached the Bluebrick file here if that helps anyone get a better look.

Many thanks and happy new year to you all..

[Adamskii]

Hello Kieran.

I am not a master train builder by any measure, but have spent many months studying layouts for mine, and with limited space have had to learn some hard realities about the limitations of lego track design. You are lucky to exploit such a large space! 4m is just awesome. I do however have some questions and maybe an idea?.

The lower part of the track looks incomplete? Is the second loop supposed to close or just finish on that bend in the lower right corner (E3)? I would close that to the double switch just above it to the left (C2).

I see you have a small cluster of switch points in the lower left corner (B1/B2), that lead to very short sidings? and a complicated in/ out access terminal. Are these short sidings for specific short trains?

As for the big empty space, seeing as you have some automation plans, how about making an extraordinary shipping or transit terminal? you could employ a simple road layout with a large industrial zone that has many containers (think Maesrk) with cranes, forklifts, trucks, rolling stock etc. Rather than a town layout which can be pricey and detract from the trains (some of the street layouts are a show stealer !), an industrial layout would compliment the trains (workers still need platforms to come and go too). Security vehicles, and maybe light aircraft runway? will fill the space quickly but have plenty of detail options too. I know that where I live an entire peninsular of land is dedicated to cargo transit from boat to road to rail etc.

Good luck I am green with envy with you size layout and wish I had that problem too!

Adam

[PeteM]

I don't know much about layouts, but as you've got a decent space I would suggest having two distinct loops of track if you can - that way you can run at least two trains at any one time.

[kieran]

Thanks Guys, I just filled the area with sidings and see your point they will be too small, maybe I will try and get a loading area in here for containers, it will be more accessible if there are any issues and some fall off anyway. 2 separate loops sounds like a good idea, my final aim is to run DCC so electricity separate tracks is not a hard requirement, but will be for some time.

Back to the drawing board

[AGarcia]

Hello!

Maybe you can use something like this:

You have two independent circuits, so you can run two trains at the same time.

The Bluebrick file is here.

Happy New Year.

AGarcia

[kieran]

Hello!

Maybe you can use something like this:

You have two independent circuits, so you can run two trains at the same time.

The Bluebrick file is here.

Happy New Year.

AGarcia

Thanks for that, would need a double cross over and they are mega money, but i do like what you did with this.

For any one interested, here is a shot of the area I will be building the set-up in.

[kieran]

Oh and the other thing I forgot to mention is i would like to runs some monorail around as well, the real LEGO type.

[Andy Glascott]

Hi, you don't necessarily need a double cross-over to link two lops of track - I cut back the turnout/slip track on 9v points to create this pair of loops:

Cutting the track gave me an 8 stud gap between the loops, if you use points as they and join the turnout/slip tracks you end up with a much wider gap between loops. Hope this helps.

[kieran]

Thanks Andy, I really like the idea of the modified track I have hunted around and found lots of info on this, but nothing to show exactly how to cut the turn out off the switch where to make the cut, do you have any tips on that?

Edited January 2, 2014 by kieran

[pacc]

I guess that if you only want to line up two cut points then a clean 45 degree cut on both could do it (given that the studs line up there)

I haven't got any to spare but this guy has done all the experimenting http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=142467

[Andy Glascott]

I'll take some pics tomorrow to illustrate where I cut.

[Andy Glascott]

Pics as promised. The first one shows where to cut - there is a gap in the plastic under the metal between the 1st and 2nd sleepers on the slip track, I've circled it. Cut there, I used a simple hacksaw and fine sand paper to smooth off the ends.

The second pic shows two points cut and lined up. To make sure I cut in the right place I used plates (as in this pic) to line the point up with one raised a couple of plates over the other so that they lined up one above the other. (I don't have enough uncut points to post a pic I'm afraid...) For security etc I join the modified points with a couple of 2x4 plates which holds everything in place.

Depending on how accurately you cut you might have a tiny gap between the two sets of points. You can either bridge this with a small piece of adhesive metal tape or leave it. I tend to leave the gap as it means I can run two trains with separate power supplies in different directions. To switch trains from one track loop to the other just make sure both are running in the same direction when the motor crosses the gap. A couple of practice runs and you'll get the hang of it very quickly.

One last piece of advice when cutting; if in any doubt, cut off less than you think you need to. You can always cut off more but it's very difficult to replace it!

Hope that helps, if it's not clear please ask.

Andy

[pacc]

very nice if you want a permanent slipcover.

I note that Lego could probably not do this since pf connections are done in the middle of a sleeper.

Selling the current points are an ongoing stupidity and they could easily add a smaller curve and straight to the switch pack to have a normal, sensible and usable point backwards compatible....

[lostdriveway]

Love this! Definitely a cheaper option then picking up double crossovers!

Pics as promised. The first one shows where to cut - there is a gap in the plastic under the metal between the 1st and 2nd sleepers on the slip track, I've circled it. Cut there, I used a simple hacksaw and fine sand paper to smooth off the ends.

The second pic shows two points cut and lined up. To make sure I cut in the right place I used plates (as in this pic) to line the point up with one raised a couple of plates over the other so that they lined up one above the other. (I don't have enough uncut points to post a pic I'm afraid...) For security etc I join the modified points with a couple of 2x4 plates which holds everything in place.

Depending on how accurately you cut you might have a tiny gap between the two sets of points. You can either bridge this with a small piece of adhesive metal tape or leave it. I tend to leave the gap as it means I can run two trains with separate power supplies in different directions. To switch trains from one track loop to the other just make sure both are running in the same direction when the motor crosses the gap. A couple of practice runs and you'll get the hang of it very quickly.

One last piece of advice when cutting; if in any doubt, cut off less than you think you need to. You can always cut off more but it's very difficult to replace it!

Hope that helps, if it's not clear please ask.

Andy

[kieran]

Agree, also better as you can run parallel on each track

[pacc]

Just adding a second way to modify points :

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=266214

[ronenson]

very nice if you want a permanent slipcover.

I note that Lego could probably not do this since pf connections are done in the middle of a sleeper.

Selling the current points are an ongoing stupidity and they could easily add a smaller curve and straight to the switch pack to have a normal, sensible and usable point backwards compatible....

Actually, Lego could easily do this. All you need is one piece of flextrack in between the two shortened switches.

More flextrack can be used to convert it back to the original switch.

[kieran]

Just adding a second way to modify points :

http://www.brickshelf.com/cgi-bin/gallery.cgi?f=266214

Thanks pacc

[pacc]

Another description to make switchover points.

Sorry for the delay (and it seems I've been beaten to the punch elsewhere!), but here's my images of the modification.

First - here's the issue....the closest you can get with standard switches to the double-crossover:

Obviously not so good.

So, how to rectify...what we really want is this:

Simply cut as shown (I used a 1x2 brick as a guide for the utility knife):

and reassemble (connect the pieces with a 4x2 bley plate)

Voila!:

It's twice as long as the double crossover, but definitely less than half the price!

And you can always add track in between for a separated crossover (something you can't do with the standard double). You have to squint, but in the far end there's the second half of the crossover:

Hope that helps!

Steve

[Doom2099]

Wow, these are some great ideas! That's going to save me a lot of money in the long run. Double the length, but as mentioned, if the trains can run parallel straight through, it's well worth it!

Thanks everyone for such the great pictoral guides.

[kieran]

PACC, nice work, I have a few options now, this is the latest version of the layout, still a way to go but getting there

Edited January 11, 2014 by kieran

[pacc]

Thank stevecockrill.

If you rightmost cargo depot track goes from down to up it would be able to connect to the other track and instead of two dead end you'd have a way to turn directions on trains and be able to run some more interesting tran simple loops.

Switching left and right points should be doable since this track can now be reached in either direction.

[kieran]

Only issue with the points switch and loop back is when i am running 9V which will be for a while until I get DCC sorted (if I do) i will have a short I think, unless I misunderstand your idea?

[pacc]

Ok, i'm only into pf...

Edited January 12, 2014 by pacc

[Andy Glascott]

I run 9v and use 2 power supplies, one for each loop. I leave a tiny gap between the track on the points to avoid a short. To switch a train from one loop to the other just make sure you reverse one so the circuits match up. That way when the motor bridges the gap it doesn't short out. It's not ideal but it works, a reversing loop will just short out.