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About davidzq

  • Birthday 10/16/1991

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  • Location
    Seattle, WA
  • Interests
    When it comes to Lego, I build highly detailed minifig scale trucks, cars, and trains.


  • Country
    United States

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  1. davidzq

    "automobiles" for train layouts ... 5+ wides?

    I plan based on a set scale of 8 feet per 7 studs (about 1:44). However in building, I tend to fudge things to accommodate my building style. So in my world, cars are typically 5 wide. Small trucks/SUVs are 6 wide. Commercial trucks are 7 wide. Trains are 8 wide (a bit undersized) My Amtrak Cascades is 7 wide, but it is a European train, and therefore smaller. I will eventually rebuild the locomotives in 8 wide.
  2. I was able to find it quickly. But looking at their products, there are some differences. In particular, the way they handle continuous curve vs parallel track. I get the impression that their system is a little more user friendly because of this, but 4DBrix has advantages as well, such as ballasting. I've received my kickstarter rewards, and am very impressed! I have a few pieces that could use a light sanding, and two pieces that are slightly warped or misaligned (won't click together fully), but sanding should fix this as well. In the future, it looks like I'll be sticking with Tom's fine products! Well... At least until Coaster has his injection molded large radius stuff ready! :p
  3. It has been done several times, by many builders. Most common I've seen is using standard AA or AAA batteries, but stacked end to end to create a long narrow battery pack, which better fits in narrow locomotives. I've also seen an example of a RC car battery used.
  4. Would it be feasible to have magnets on one coupler, and magnets mounted on springs (or maybe just the ability to slide in/out a bit)? This would allow the two left magnets to be fixed, while the two right ones move, ensuring all 4 connections have conductivity via magnets, yet not have alignment issues. The other thing to consider is having magnets aligned vertically, thus eliminating polarity issues. One magnet above the coupler, one below. You could then have additional magnets on the sides for things that aren't polarity sensitive (Such as power via a bridge rectifier). You could easily make a variation of Tom's design for this; a single magnet, and a three magnet version. Gets you one through six conductors.
  5. davidzq

    9v (Train) motor guide

    Feel free to crack open the motors and take a look by cutting off the 10 clips on the bottom. The case's fit is tight enough to hold together without the clips. The most common things the motors need to get back up to running are: - Cleaning of the wheels and track, and sometimes the internal components need cleaning/lubrication. -Each wheel has two springs rubbing against it that pick up the power. These wear down over time, and eventually have poor contact. Simply remove the wheels, and bend the springs out a little to give them more pressure on the wheels. If these don't work, the electric motors themselves do wear out eventually. Luckily they can be replaced with brand new ones from inside the currently available PF train motors. You can find a lot of info and videos on this here:
  6. You can get it on Bricklink. "Flex tube" is what many AFOL's refer to it as, but it's BL name is Hose, Rigid 3mm D., and has it's own category in the parts catelog, organized by length. The Lego Group calls it "Outer Cable" for reference.
  7. I myself would opt for the more realistic 15° guides, and am not bothered if the product strays away from the original Lego design (which we all know is a bit lacking in some respects). I also like the inclusion of guides on the frogs, for both accuracy and the reassurance of the wheels not colliding. Another thought I've had; Would it be possible to make some of the studs hollow in the tight areas (i.e. between the guide rails). This would allow a 1x3 tile to be centered between them instead of a 1x2 with gaps on either side when ballasting. And if not possible, perhaps shift the studs by half for the same reason? And thank you for the added studs in the last update!
  8. It depends on the train and how well it runs. If you have a long train, you'll most likely need some extra pulling power, and if two motors in the A unit isn't enough, the B can hold two more. I even have a powered NPCU on my cascades, as the train is very heavy. Keep inmind that if you are using the 9v system, a single stock speed regulator can only handle two or three motors. But power functions is pretty much limitless, with more batteries and receivers.
  9. davidzq

    Assembling a small shunting engine

    What is the file name for the instructions, or have you renamed it? Could it still be in your download history on your computer or browser?
  10. davidzq

    Amtrak California Surfliner Set

    I remember these very well. Swoofty's work is what made me take a fresh look at my own F59PHI, and along with a switch to seven wide, put me on the path to what it is now. It's good to see the setis alive and well, and will be takencare of!
  11. I would just use small pin connectors, with a couple extra inches of wire that can be tucked into the car. Only downside is if you use male and female connectors, the cars have to be facing the right direction, but I wouldn't see this being an issue with most trains. The connectors can be quite small. With 5 conductors, it could be about the size of a 1x1 brick.
  12. Uh oh, now I have to give you more money! It will be great to see the yard adapters available, especially if we don't have to wait for your next product expansion.
  13. I'm thinking it might be better to have only the shorter of the two straights (the 8+2.67). On the next spur (and ever 3rd there after), we could simply use two of the 10.67. And it looks like that would also remove the need for the half straight. But however it happens, this yard piece is something I'm interested in!
  14. I'm already a 9v backer. If this were PF only, I would still back, but I'm really only interested in 9v.
  15. davidzq

    Bogie Comparison

    As far as keeping the wheels from popping off, I used the older 9V era bogie sets, which have the metal axle running THROUGH the wheel. It takes a surprisingly large amount of force to get the wheels on/off the axle. You do have the metal point sticking out, but it's the same as the plastic point on the RC era wheels.