davidzq

Eurobricks Vassals
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About davidzq

  • Birthday 10/16/1991

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  • What is favorite LEGO theme? (we need this info to prevent spam)
    train
  • Which LEGO set did you recently purchase or build?
    Crocodile Locomotive

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    Male

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    United States

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  1. Opened up one of my 9v motors for you. Full markings are: BZW 04P 15B C605 So...TVS Diode BZW04-15B I also opened up a PU train motor. The capacitor is a surface mount, with no label 🙁. It's labeled as C2 on the board. I don't have any equipment to test it's value. Traces to each motor lead. But it also implies there's a C1 somewhere.... internal to the motor, maybe? But I can't open the shell without removing the pressed on gears. One of the motor leads passes through a 509R resistor (labelled R1).
  2. Oops, you're right, the disk is the over-current thermal protection. The black component is a TVS diode for over-voltage protection. Been a few years since I've opened up my motors and my memory got mixed up 😛 Anyways it should be easy to add a capacitor. Simply solder it to the bussing on the motor.
  3. That is the thermistor (overload protection). On PF/PU motors, there is a capacitor, with the thermistor being on the motors wire lead.
  4. What XC BG said is correct, as heat is a byproduct of electrical. Another factor is actually your PWM power supply. The PF motor features a capacitor to help smooth the voltage. The 9v motor does not, so the voltage spikes are dissipated as heat by the motor. It's not enough to effect the motor, especially because it has thermal protection, but it does bring the temperature up. Michael Gale actually did a nice summary of this Last week. Another factor is weight distribution. The motor with the most weight above it does more work. Though the difference is typically negligible on most Lego locomotives.
  5. 0/10. Source material clearly shows orange, yellow, red, orange freight cars, not this ridiculous yellow, orange, brown, brown. Completely wrong! 😛 Well done! The details are beautifully captured. The roof technique is simple and effective. I likely would have done something very similar (and just as fragile!).
  6. davidzq

    Modifying PF lights for alternating flash

    Well aware. And of how the bridge rectifier works. But Philo's diagrams show a connection between the LEDs after the bridge, so I just wanted to ensure there was no trace between the pads which could result in a dead short if I were to remove the bridge and jumper it's pads. And knowing I had seen the diagram before, I knew someone else had already done the legwork for me, so sought it out. 🙂
  7. davidzq

    Modifying PF lights for alternating flash

    YES! That was it! I really need to go through RailBricks again. It's getting dated now, but it's still a wealth of information. Yes, one light for one polarity. The other light for the other polarity. Thus allowing a motorized switch (or a programmable output) to flash the LEDs in an alternating pattern. Left, right, left, right...
  8. davidzq

    Burlington Northern GP40-2 Complete Model

    The V2 receivers have V2 printed on them in bolt letters underneath the channel select.
  9. If the buttons cannot be moved, how about replacing them with a sliding toggle switch. This would be less likely to be accidentally pressed, and gives the impression that these are settings to be chosen before operation, not something to be changed often or on the fly. I'm also not a fan of a two button approach for such options, I would prefer a single button/switch that toggles between them (with two indicator lights). The two button approach just seems like wasted space. The exception to this is the direction control, I am fine with either option for that. An addition I feel would be helpful would be some switched/selectable outputs, controlled by additional buttons, or perhaps by the direction buttons. This would be a great addition for trackside structures/signals, or for isolated sections of track (though that would be better served by more complex means). But with how well thought out the entire FX catalog has been thus far, I would assume you already have something planned for things like this. You mentioned "slave (half width) speed controllers". I'm guessing this means this controller has some modular expansion planned? Though I don't see any connection points along the edge of the controller to join multiple together.
  10. davidzq

    Modifying PF lights for alternating flash

    While that solution is the best way in terms of performance, it unfortunately cannot be done in the small space of the 2x2x2/3 splitter, and would require an external enclosure. The method I had seen involved removing the bridge rectifier, jumping some pads, and cutting some of the PCB circuits. The end result is outwardly identical to an unmodified PF light.
  11. Some years back, someone had made a tutorial on modifying the circuitry inside the Power Functions LED (8870) which allowed them to flash alternately by alternating the input polarity. I've been unable to locate this tutorial, or remember exactly where it was I found it. I believe it was a photo on Flickr, but hours of searching have yielded nothing. It was posted somewhere train related, as the application was specifically for use as ditch lights. I am well aware of the circuit breakdown on Philo's page, and I am competent in circuitry so I can figure this out on my own if need be. But I'm hoping to double check my modifications with the guide before I destroy a light (I believe I'll need to cut some of the circuit lines on the PCB). Anyone know where it is?
  12. davidzq

    RES-Q sets reimagined

    I love these! Res-Q was one of my favorites as well. I look forward to seeing the HQ when you finish.
  13. davidzq

    Has anyone bought 9v track from okbrickworks?

    The partnership with OKBrickWorks occured a few months after this announcement.
  14. davidzq

    Has anyone bought 9v track from okbrickworks?

    Let's clear up some of the confusion here... 4DBrix was a company by Tom Lowa that was making 3D printed PF switches and curves. OKBrickWorks is a company by Andy Mollman, which does high quality decals and 3D printed 9v curves. Tom ended 4DBrix, and gave everything to OKBrickWorks, so now they are the suppliers for 4D's track designs. Unfortunately they don't seem to be doing the Monorail track... FXBricks has been developing an entire line of injection molded 9v track, and is just now starting to release their products, starting with S8 and S32 straights, R72 and R88 curves. More to come. There's also BrickTracks by Scott Hoffmeyer who does high quality injection molded curves and R104 switches, and TrixBrix who does 3D printing of just about anything you can think of, and some injection molding.
  15. I will also say go with BrickTracks. Scott has gone through several hoops and hurtles (and huge expense) to create a product that IS up to Lego's quality standards. It's not just "good", it is perfect. TrixBrix had a very shady start...the brief version of the history is whenever anyone released something, TrixBrix would "coincidentally" release the exact same thing a few months later...which is one of the main factors in 4DBricks deciding to close. But, they have come a long way in the last couple years. They now have a wide array of products that other people haven't put effort in to develop yet (low demand/seldom used items). But, being small batch 3D print, or medium batch injections molded, the quality is lower. Decent, but not perfect.