Beck

Eurobricks Citizen
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  1. Although I do not know exactly how this will look, I'm getting a feeling that this will look kinda weird. I would however fill the gaps between the white panels above the slew ring and the the rear of the crane.
  2. @brickless_kiwi Thanks for the ideas. I specifically designed the axles with gear reduction to lessen the stress on the UV joins (I have broken soooo many). I actually tried a design like yours three years ago just after coming out of a mini-dark age. The major flaw associated with that design is it's nearly impossible to connect the drive and steering without interfering with each other or using a linkage steering system (I've tried it and don't like it). I appreciate your ideas! @Ludo Visser I will look into it. Update 5: Looks like the rack doesn't need much range to achieve maximum lock. (+/- 1 stud)
  3. Interesting idea. Here's what I came up with: Problem: I need the gearrack to be held up, but 1 plate wont work. Besides, my steering mechanism is off-centered because of the driveline, so I wouldn't be able to achieve full right steering lock. It's a neat idea, but unfeasible. I'm going to stick with the bevel gear and washer.
  4. Good idea, but with the 1x1 round tile will protrude too much from the face of the wheel. The brown axles are acceptable.
  5. Thanks! I'm not quite sure what you mean by SSD or double bevel gear. I am very well aware that the bevel gear is not ideal, but it's pretty much the only option in this setup. Thank you very much! In a way they are similar to Dirk's crane, in that they are mechanically extended and pneumatically raised. The key difference being that my outriggers are mounted on a non-specialized carrier, an 10x8 truck, so the outriggers rotate along the axis parallel to the length of the outrigger. You can see the mechanism and explanation on the last photo of Update #3. Already thought of that, only I forgot to include that in the model IRL. Since the halfbeams in front of the 5x7 frame are attached by 1(1/2) pins I was going to cut 3mm tubing to connect the 3L halfbeam to the 1(1/2)pins. I would still need the metal washer for this gap: Yep, I understand. I even considered painting the cap black.
  6. Update 4: I completed the axles and part of the chassis IRL about a month and a half ago. In the mean time I bricklinked the various types of specialty parts required for the cab, outriggers, and crane. I'm especially pleased with the mudguards. You may see that I used the 20 tooth bevel gear on the front axle, but this is because the front steering rack's range movement would be hindered by the regular 20 tooth gear. I will probably add a metal washer on the back of the 20 tooth bevel gear to reduce the likelihood that the gear will bend under high load. Here's a closeup: In LDD, I have reinforced the front outriggers and attached the front cover plate and incorporated the pneumatic pumps. Finally, I have begun work on an outrigger design. It's significantly bulkier than the real crane, but this is lego and I want the model to be 100% remote controlled. Any comments, questions, or concerns are much appreciated. Thanks, Beck
  7. It exists in LDD Extended. You can recolor the part then copy & paste it to your file. I'm very impressed by your ability to use panels without creating clutter in the model.
  8. I would like to live like this; however, as a student it's basically impossible. I think I know what you're getting at here. The fulcrum for the first stage is weak and far away from the center of the turnable. To mitigate this factor, I will use technic beams to connect the fulcrum to the technic holes on the turntable. It's a digital WIP so I'm jumping all around to different parts of the model and sometimes forget to finish the section I am working on.
  9. Well this is embarrassing; especially because I own a 42009. Time to pillage! @I_Igor The problem with building IRL is that the process requires an extremely large collection of system bricks that I simply don't have. Building technic IRL is more practical because there are fewer types of parts and colors than those in system. For me, the easiest method of designing a model team creation is to use LDD and order the necessary parts off of bricklink. That being said, I will begin to order the parts required for my week off between terms.
  10. Like almost all other trucks, they're solid axles. I was referring to TLG's Arocs in my previous response. Update 3: I have completed a sketch of the loading box to get an idea of the overall length and to aid in scaling the length of the 1st stage. I also covered the drive motor with the fuel tank and what appears to be the exhaust filter. Shown in the last photo is my idea for the rotating outrigger. The axle on the top will stay fixed relative to the outrigger, but the lower axle will slide in through the red gear as the outrigger extends. The problem is the range of movement. TLG's longest axle is 32l and the second longest is 12l. I would need an axle with a length of about 16l for the outrigger to be anywhere near effective. A possible solution would be to add a 2nd axle stage, but this increased height would not fit in the outrigger part. Any ideas? I'm considering cutting a 32l axle to length if need be, but I'm a bit hesitant to say the least. Thanks, Beck
  11. What a fantastically unique model! I'm most impressed by the various angles of the connecting axles.
  12. Beck

    TRAXX AC2

    Good to see an old project be revived! Shaping looks good; however, I don't know how to critique it or give feedback since I do not know if the intended scale of the model has changed(1:38, 1:40, 1:45?). For now I'm going to assume it's still 1:45. Firstly, I really like the ledge and "steps" below the lights. Secondly, I would add a layer of transclear plates behind the transclear tiles on the windscreen to differentiate it from the lights. Although it's hard to tell, the cab looks a bit too tall from this angle, but I calculated that the height from the bottom of mainframe to the top of the cab should be 7.5 studs tall. I'm also curious about your opinion of the wheels size. Do you think the lego pf train wheel ruins the look of the traxx? Can't wait to see more!
  13. Very impressive project. To me, your greatest skill is making near perfect use of space. I really like the minimal use of azure to contrast the white. What BuWizz mode did you use while filming?
  14. Thank you! I'm going to stick to a studful chassis, since it is easier to build a studful bi-layer that resists bending stress much better than a comparable chassis utilizing technic beams. Although it is possible to create a chassis that is equally as strong using technic beams, it would require more vertical bracing, which would take up quite a bit more space. The suspension for axles 1 and 2 is nothing like the arocs'. Thanks! I don't entirely understand what you are implying by suggesting to switch wheels. Do you mean that the truck should be scaled up to allow for more room or do you mean that the current wheels are simply too small? To address the first possible meaning; I am not going to use the 24x43 wheels because I really like this scale, and already have two trucks built at this scale. Besides, I have put waaay too much time into making axles at this scale. Regarding the outriggers, there's no way I'm going to make three stage outriggers, let alone two. Placing the motors inside of the crane may work for your model, but the frame of the effer 2655 is way to skinny to fit any type of motor inside; although, I may be able to fit a motor inside of the asymmetrical portion of the second stage that connects to the first stage to control the 2nd stage extension. (hopefully that made sense ) Thanks! Update 1: The wheel arches for axles 3 and 4 are complete, but need more support from the bottom. I will need to create lengthened wheel arches for axles 2 and 5 as to accommodate for the steering angle. Using sariel's scaler, I created an outline for the crane base. I estimate that the truck will end up being ~85 studs long.
  15. Hello everyone! After completing my TGS 18.400, I’ve decided to dedicate my time towards one sole project instead of trying to work on five separate projects that never get completed. My primary goal in this project is to motorize and remotely control all* major functions. *excluding doors, and possible fly jib List of Powered Functions (via BuWizz and SBricks) 1. Drive 2. Steer 3. Slewing 4. Outrigger extend 5. Pneumatic Pump + Airtank? 6. Servo Valve - Outrigger Down 7. Servo Valve - Crane 1st stage 8. Servo Valve - Crane 2nd stage 9. Servo Valve - Crane 2nd Stage extend 10. Outrigger rotate? This may sound ambitious; however, I do not care about interiors whatsoever, so I will make effective use of the cab-space and oil tank behind the cab. Another goal of this project is to implement full suspension. Axles 1 and 2 will be springless pendular, given the weight of the cab and crane. Axles 3 and 4 may be sprung, although I am undecided on this matter. The fifth and rearmost axle will be sprung with the soft springs. Thus far the most challenging aspect of the build has been to figure out a way to rotate the front set of outriggers (above axle 2) 180 degrees while allowing for extension. I’m not sure if I can do this. (I have an idea for a mechanism, but need to try it out in IRL. Any ideas or advice is greatly appreciated in regard to any aspect of the build. References: http://www.ditzj.de/html/en/trucks/man/41480maurach1.html http://www.effer.com/en/products/2655/ Thank you for reading