langko

I presume you mean the bike? That jumped what, $60-70? I managed to pick that up for AU$230 at an EFOY sale. Good timing now that LEGO’s bumped it to $389 haha.

Yup the price increases that were talked about a couple months ago are now in effect. The Ferrari has jumped $40 to $699 and the Lamborghini has jumped a whopping $130 to also be $699 Time to start thinking about retiring from this hobby...

Huge respect @Akassin, @Jim you are awesome for making this happen. Definitely made my day reading this, what a lovely thing to do.

Interesting to hear peoples different experiences with the white parts. I personally only have 1 white model, its about 2 years old and doesn't have any signs of yellowing/degrading as yet... Its kept out of direct sunlight as is pretty much all my models.

So I had a lot of lime parts lying around so decided to give this a build before I use the pieces for my next MOC. I made a few changes to suit my taste... - Black lip at the front. - Panels instead of connecters for the front intake area, as well as a little black panel. - More details to the headlights with the addition of white bars. - Tried to fill in the gaps at the front a bit more... - Black bionicle wing behind the door to add the extra detail. - Added a flex axle inside the rear wheel arches to make the wheels a bit tighter fit. - Rearranged the flex axles to follow the roof line even more closely. - Blocked out some of the pin holes in the rear to make it look a bit cleaner. - Added some detail around the exhaust pipes. - Few more gap filling in the rear half of the car. - New seats made out of panels instead of connectors. - Fixed some structural weaknesses in the chassis. Overall definitely a model aimed at looking great on the shelf, but not a real lot mechanically interesting here. There are some things a really really like but other parts not so much... - The roofline with the curved panels looks amazing. - Engine detailing is some of the best, if not the best I've seen. - Rear taillights are awesome. - The door hinge is very cleverly achieved, will definitely borrow a similar solution if one of my MOC's require it. - The details in the dash are clean and well represented, very cool solution for the steering wheel! - Front suspension layout is very interesting with the layout of the springs. Suspension both front and rear is very responsive. - Pretty efficient build given the low parts count compared to other 1:8 scale models. And the not so much... - Doors get stuck on the surrounding bodywork when opening/closing do to the super tight/flush fit. - Some of the gears in the gearbox don't seem very well secured... - The rear drive axles rub a bit on the lower wishbones due to diff being placed quite low in the chassis/arrangement of the rear suspension. - The linear actuators crash into the #3/4 black panels in the lower dash when the doors are in there fully open state. I only noticed this because I had a time when the end of the actuator got stuck behind the end of the panel. I changed mine to the shorter #1/2 panels, it doesn’t effect the look much and it works a lot better. - Whilst the front bodywork represent the lines very well the style seems a bit out across the whole model (very closed at the back/mainly panels but more open/gappy/flex axles at the front). I like it a bit more with my changes, but still not 100% happy with it. End of the day this is just personal preference and I'm sure many people will be happy with it the way it is. More photos have been uploaded on the rebrickable entry. Thanks for sharing and look forward to what you come up with next. It was a fun build and a definitely learnt a few new things.

For your first MOC I think you can be pretty proud of what you have done! Yes the roof is a bit high and some parts could do with some polishing but at the end of the day I think it does a reasonable job at passing my "squint test" too. One area that I think is really well done is the seats! I always like seeing panels used there instead of lots of connectors. The front area around the lights and nose looks nice too. Looking forward to seeing what it looks like with the doors/bonnet open. Thanks for sharing!

After watching the reviews I think this is a very cool set! Definitely the essence of what technic is all about with all the functionality and realistic mechanisms, one of the best sets in a while in that regard.

Looks good! I like your freestyle models you’ve done lately. This one reminds me of the modern Toyota Supra’s. Congrats for fitting so much functions in a 1:10 car, even if the steering/HOG gearing is the most complicated I have ever seen You have a great building style for the bodywork, not cluttered but not too gappy either.

Well sticking with CaDA it can be argued that they still do things that are morally wrong... even if they are one of the ‘nice guys’ when it comes to knock off brands. I think the takeaway point here is that money is one of the biggest corrupters of morals. Companies will put morals to the side to make money, and consumers will put morals to the side to save money.

100% I had a mouldking representative contact me recently to turn the Pagani into a set. I asked him if he’d be asking if the instructions were already available, as they’d probably just have stolen them already. He assured me that they would never do such a thing because they have the utmost respect for designers I asked him about all the stolen models from rebrickable they sell (Bruno’s P1, Charbels 720s and lots of other popular MOC’s) He assured me that they’d backpayed everyone whose work they’ve stolen. I didn’t believe him for a second and ripped into him pretty hard. I never heard back from him

100% agree so I guess I’m negative Nancy too. I had made a comment before the model was even revealed along the lines of “terrible choice of car in terms of being able to represent the a pillars/windscreen well”. Then when the model was revealed I made a comment similar to what you just said regarding the artistic liberty being a good choice. Although I personally think that while the flex axles on the official model was a better choice, neither option really looks great...

Sweet setup @Jim, congrats for getting it all together! Cool display boxes for the Sian/Chiron too

Far out that’s bad! Does it show what it’s supposed to look like when the step is completed? I have asked myself that question a few times and it would appear the answer is no... If you test built the model you should know straight away that the above connection doesn’t work.

I feel like the whole VIP point system is just a marketing gimmick to make you think you are getting a better deal than you really are. Right now (in Australia) I can get this set on sale for $109 from Amazon or Big W. That’s $60 cheaper than what LEGO is offering, even if buying with the double points you only get around 1500 points which is only redeemable for $15-20.

Yours was based of this MOC right? https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-31944/Joebot360/pagani-huayra/#details Don't be too hard on yourself, I had better/newer parts available than he did 3 years ago. I'm sure an even better version of this would be possible with the new red parts from the Daytona as well.

You would think this was the A model and the original was an attempt at a B model. This looks fantastic, the wheel arches especially look way better on this build. Machine gun function is top notch, well done!

Yes, but I think his point is that in this situation they would be spacing to nothing. So you might as well just fill the gaps with more system pieces if that was case.

I personally really like the bright light orange! The contrast and look is much better. May I ask where you get your custom number plates from? or do you make them yourself? I noticed on your rebrickable photos you got quite a few of them, they look great and add a unique touch!

I bought a cheap 1/14 scale RC car when I made the second Senna. Granted its not the same scale but I found it super helpful in terms of being able to visualise things from a 3D perspective. Plus it was fun to drive around and I gave it to a friends kids when the model was done so it was win win for everyone. Huge respect for you coming out and admitting that. I have to say I was pretty disappointed with how unsecured how all the body work was attached, especially given that it was available as a set as well. It almost seemed like CADA didn't care about how it was put together, just on how it looked. I feel like a lot of people on social media were quick to say comments like "this is so much better than the sian", "shame on LEGO" etc etc... but when you actually build it you realise the build quality doesn't actually compete. I think that's where some of the double standards come into play: it seems we praise MOCs before we have built them and whine about LEGO sets before they have even come out. I have no doubt though that you've learnt massively from the experience and your LaFerrari will be on another level. I agree people can do whatever they want, and with that reasoning I think LEGO can as well, but if an individual or a company's happy selling things that don't work properly then that's up to there own conscious and standards. I have no problem buying LEGO sets or supporting MOC designers by purchasing instructions, I just wish there was more openness in the shortcomings of things as well. Reading through this thread the model comes across as being as close to perfect as one can get, and looking back at the video there is no footage of the doors closing so it seems like effort has been made to hide any malfunctions. After I had built the model I had commented my findings on rebrickable, just so other people could be aware before they potentially sunk quite a lot of money into the model. I am still happy to support designers but after the experiences with this and your Centenario I'm just a lot more cautious of what MOCs I build. He mentioned he designed both at the same time, but I more or less come to the conclusion that the RC version was the predominant focus as well. This is a good point too, and something I struggle with every day in my day job. But I personally think making instructions and making the actual MOC are two entirely different skillsets. You don't have to be great at making instructions to make great MOCs and vice versa. From my end there were definitely no complaints with instructions with this model, they were of super high quality. This is something that sums me up too. Maybe its because I work for a company that manufactures and designs things to the highest of standards, that carries over to a lot of what I do in my personally life. I've always been the type of person that can't settle for anything less than my best work so I can admittedly sometimes fail to understand why others wouldn't want to do the same. The approach of 'only the best is good enough' can be a burden at times but it is also incredibly amazing when you see the potential and results of what can be created with that attitude. I agree and can empathise with the rest of your comment as well.

I'd like to give the model the benefit of the doubt, but I built mine about a year ago... and its never worked smoothly. I don't think sitting on the shelf would do much harm in this case and there's no elastic bands that wear out or stretch. That is a good point. Although I think there is plenty resources available to MOC makers to help make the best models possible. Read Sariels book "the unofficial lego technic builders guide". Buy the instructions for a popular and well respected MOC like Charbel's 720s or Bruno's P1 to see how they've been constructed, or read through one of the many WIP threads here to see how some models came to life. Start your own WIP thread on this forum if you need help on a mechanism or how to attach something, there's plenty of smart people here that would be happy to help. Build the official 1:8 LEGO sets -> then build the pimped up versions to see how the mechanisms have been improved. Ask your friend or partner to test out the functions while your designing, they'll be able to help give feedback if something doesn't work quite right (I'm constantly asking my wife what she thinks of what I'm making and she's is always more than happy to tell me when something isn't quite good enough haha). Ask someone in the LEGO community who you trust and respect to test build your model and give feedback before you start charging for instructions. At the end of the day I think it all comes down to how badly you want to make something and the personal standards you set for yourself as a builder.

Well it is definitely a bug then. I had originally thought I had built something wrong but after going over and over the instructions I didn't think I had. The RC version has rubber bands in the doors to help with the backlash in the closing mechanism. Sadly the same solution cannot be applied to the manual version as the HOG control doesn't provide enough force to stretch the bands in the opening movement. I am convinced the RC version would be much better. I think I agree with @Lipko here. It doesn't matter whether you spend 500 hours in 3 months designing a model because its your job, or 500 hours designing a model over 2 years in your spare time, its still the same amount of effort being put in. I don't see much advantage for working for LEGO except being able to have new parts or existing parts in new colours -> which mainly improves the looks of things not the mechanics. And in the this case I have zero complaints about the looks of this model, I personally think its the best looking car that's ever been made in the Dark Azure colour scheme: despite the very limiting part availability in that colour. I just feel like the mechanics don't live up to the rest of the model or what seems advertised. If you are going to sell instructions for a model that will most likely be more expensive than a LEGO set, I think its fair for the buyers to presume everything will work properly. In my opinion whether you work for LEGO or you a MOC maker, having functions that work properly should be the standard. Then if you are going to take it a step further and sell your MOC to another brick company to produce, then I think its absolutely fair for the model to be judged to the same standard as LEGO sets. Yes I use axle with stops or other methods to stop axles coming out. I think building things so that axles can't come out of gears is a realistic and easily achievable standard one should aspire too. For me "built from standard parts" means building from anything that is currently available in the LEGO inventory. This model doesn't use 3D printed parts, painted parts or off brand parts so for me this is built with standard parts.

I made the manual version and to be honest I was a little bit disappointed with the final model... In my experience the doors had lots of gears making them quite hard to actually open with the HOG, they work ok individually but trying to do it with them both selected at the same time is almost to much for the gearing to handle. The whole mechanism is quite slow as well (was definitely sped up in the video). I also had issues with the doors closing due to the backlash in some of the gears (mine needs a helping hand on the closing mechanism). See the GIF below to see the amount of movement the door has due to the backlash. Because of this and the way gravity works, the doors on my model tend to close in sideways too much before they start coming down, meaning they get stuck on the bodywork when closing. Another annoyance its the way the HOG steering is attacked with this 5l axle and bevel gear... The axle can easily come loose and the gear falls out and gets lost in the chassis, happened to me a few times and was a huge pain to fix. I plan on going through and modifying some things to see if I can improve things but haven't got around to it yet. I would be interested to hear if anyone else that's built this model has had similar problems with the doors. I feel like the motorised version would work better but I never got to make that one. The motors should provide more torque and speed to the mechanisms making them work more easily and quicker than it does turning by hand.

Not sure what happened, but I noticed this the other week... I had bought the instructions about a year ago. Under my purchased MOCs section the model says ‘disabled’ and it’s all red, I can still download the instructions but there’s no longer a page for the MOC or a parts list... Hope he’s ok. I wouldn’t be surprised if he was sick of it getting stolen... Maybe his brother @Lox Lego can provide some info.

Well done, this is very cool! I think even if LEGO made more gear sizes (clutch and normal) it would go a long way to improving the current system without redesigning the wave selector mechanism. This however takes it to a whole new level. One can only hope someone from LEGO is watching and being inspired in some way. 4 UCS cars so far... they are 0 from 4 in terms of actually having the correct amount of gears compared to the real car... and 2 from 4 in terms of actually getting the gears in the correct order. Not a very good record

Glad to hear! Good luck with the fans, I'd like to see that in your version as well. I had always assumed that the window was fixed to the clamshell, mainly because I'd never seen it sitting above the 'X' is photos of the engine bay. (like photo I posted above). I did some research and here's a photo that shows it well. This is pretty much what I ended up with too haha. Here's my layout if your interested (without all the bracing and everything else). This is with the suspension in the lower position. The yellow axles with the 24 tooth gears rotate 90 degrees changing the position where the springs are mounted at the bottom. In the higher position the bottom of the springs are a stud above the yellow axles instead of a stud to the side. There is proper bracing to support the 2x1 liftarm (60483) when it is in both positions to take the stresses off the yellow axle. With the steering rack the horizontal grey 11L axle is fixed in place allowing the gear rack to slide left/right along it. Again, there is more bracing everywhere but this is just to explain the mechanics. It's all quite dense but works well.