MinusAndy

Eurobricks Citizen
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Everything posted by MinusAndy

  1. Yeah but more in terms of the concept of the long wheelbase and a kind of opening clamshell with a really low seat. I haven’t designed the bodywork yet so I’ll see where I end up
  2. Hmm. I shall look into using 2 cables. I’ll see if I can get one on the back of the hub. Cheers! feel free to use the radial engine. It looks nice staggered by a stud between each cylinder too, which could really suit some planes.
  3. Thanks! As I was building it I was mentally pricing up the parts to make four and put them on a huge bomber. I think I’ll be putting way more support along the flex cable. It worked fine when there wasn’t a massive engine in the way but I’ll have to build a really small steering box to get it to work. I plan on speeder bike style handlebars.
  4. Update: I had an unsuccessful attempt at building a radial engine and started putting a longitudinal inline three cylinder in the bike, then I decided to persevere and spent some time over the last couple of days building a 6 cylinder radial engine and then rebuilding the chassis around it. The engine was really tricky to align the array of cylinders and make a crank and conrod system that worked. I’ve ended up with a crank moving a pulley wheel with the pistons attached to it. The pulley wheel is not allowed to rotate as the con rods would foul on each other so it has a system of floating sliding squares to allow it to move but not rotate. So now I have a radial engine powered cyberpunk drag bike with hub centre steering and a two speed gearbox. Next is the opening clamshell canopy and link up the flex cable steering.
  5. This reminds me of the “Batavus Go-Go” I had as a teenager. It was a fetching shade of aubergine. The front end you have built looks great already. Do you plan to make the pedals disengage from the drive when the engine is running?
  6. I believe this to be the worlds most popular motor bike?
  7. I spent a bit of time trying to simplify the front swing arm and hub and have ended up changing the hub to make it less bulky and using a lift arm. I’ve built a rear hub with shaft drive built in. the rear suspension has to pop up into a high position when the front fairing lifts up.
  8. MinusAndy

    [TC19] The Predator - Concept bike

    This could well end up like judge dredds bike judging by the wheels.
  9. For me it’s trying to make less convoluted mechanisms. I often struggle with the fact, particularly on my current moc, that the ideal position for the functional result, eg: engine input is at odds with the gearbox output. I’ve started going back to stage 0 when this happens now and trying to rebuild any variable bits I can.
  10. And a bitch to build on a purely mechanical level!
  11. all help is gratefully appreciated. I bought a huge box of bionicles last year for 20 euros, it contained over 30 full bionicle characters so I have huge amounts of all the weird bits they come with. I think I’ll try to use loads up on this.
  12. I have about 20 of that last one! That’s a good shout
  13. I want to avoid making the swing arm too bulky and blunt so definitely not 90 degrees. I’ll be investigating the huge pile of bionicle technic parts I have acquired as there are all sorts of curved lift arms in it. I have a propensity to overbuild and make large Mocs so I’m trying to keep this bike more concise. Colour wise, I’m going to try and use existing stuff I have rather than buy a load of bits.
  14. I think hicas actually steers in different directions to the front wheels depending how fast you’re going? Ie low speed it’s in opposition for tighter turning and agility and when you’re going fast it switches to making it crab slightly.
  15. Yeah. If I can make some sort of knuckle on the end of a bent lift arm that could work.
  16. Yeah I agree, this is literally me hanging it together so I can get it working.
  17. I tend to get obsessed with either a mechanism or part of a vehicle. Then scale to wheels, or a specific feature. Then I sketch it out on a big bit of card, based on sizes from Sariels model scaler. I like to sketch it together out of whatever bits then I improve one side at a time until I realise my mechanism is deeply flawed, tear down, repeat. One side at a time works well for me.
  18. Clearly Suzuki were mad in the 80’s! Remember street hawk? A Suzuki katana, the motorbike with a pop up headlight. you could possibly do hub centre steering from outside the centre line using a vpp?
  19. Me neither but I’m going to have a go. You should too, I figure a good way to learn is to do this comp. worst case, build half a car.
  20. I’ve been thinking about this to make the day at work pass quicker. Could you do something like have a rack setup on the rear wheels and have it controlled by the difference in outputs across the diff? I was thinking of it in terms of four wheel drive and running some sort of system like that across the centre diff? For a 2wd system this idea seems to work on paper at least. I’m thinking that if you could take from each side of the diff and run those in opposite directions back into another diff, the casing would only spin when one wheel was going quicker than the other and that output from the casing could drive a rack that is spring loaded back to centre? I’ll try and build it in ldd as that explanation is probably about as clear as mud. The red diff is the regular drive to the back wheels, The yellow and blue sides provide drive into the sky blue diff in opposite directions so cancel each other out when driving straight, Then if a wheel rotates quicker, the sky blue diff case will move, You could take this movement and use it to drive a rack or pushrod steering system, you'd need some sort of torque soak as the sky blue casing will continue to rotate while you corner. This would work like a semi open diff as the soak would create friction between the output axles. The difference between the wheel outputs will be sent to the purple lift arm which rotates around the light grey axle. It will only be a pushing force due to the friction pin in the small bevel gear. I reckon the push will be ideal for hicas, especially if you have it sprung to centre. It should work in a correctional manner. I hope the above helps.
  21. Thanks man. Fortunately the a10’s undercarriage is really simple and robust with no fancy linkages so I could make it as straight as possible. I’ve snapped a few of those thin bevel gears in the mechanism though.
  22. Thanks! It’s starting to come together despite some serious time setbacks (binging the mandalorian)
  23. I tried the new colour scheme on the tail today. I’m missing a few parts but overall pretty happy with it.
  24. Fantastic. I saw this on tlcb earlier and was hoping it was on here too. The interior door panels look great.
  25. Great shaping. The front view, I could tell it was a sirocco immediately.