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Everything posted by TechnicSummse

  1. [WIP] 40+ km/h lego car Since i like to see some ideas and open discussions, i decided to make this project public. So lets start with the current progress: A few pictures of the first tries, with the following specs: - 4 motors, gearing 24:8 from low-speed-otput - 1 PF-battery-box, attached to an old 9V switch, controlling 1 of the 4 buggy motors. Switch is controlled by a micromotor powered with the auxilary output of the rc unit. - 3 motors powered with the RC unit - total weight (without speed computer, to stay below the magic number :D) -> 991g (1012g with the computer) 4th motor is used as a booster, activated with the auxiliary padels, once the car reached like 15 km/h Fresh video, done 1 hour ago ;) (38,7 km/h) ->
  2. This would need 2 remotes on 2 different channels... and 2 rc-units on channel 1 and another 2 rc units on channel 2... Theoretically this could be ok... but it would be pretty hard to handle with 2 of the rc-remotes controlling at the same time... they are really bulky
  3. @Marxpek Did you try an air-rudder, like airboats steer for example? To answer your question... no.. i did not burn any rc unit with the 3 motor-setup. The burned one i have... i baught like it was for 1€ on ebay... sadly the seller could not tell me, how it was destroyed... i was verry curious about that. One thing you should keep in mind with your latest design is a problem i came across: If you use seperatet axles (seperately driven rearwheels), you wont have a staright run at all, since there are (in our case) huge differences in motor speeds. Especially, if you power them from different power sources. I hope you understand what i want to point out here. Edit: The rudder i meant like this for example:
  4. He is doing this kind of Stuff for about 1 year now... he really know the basics ;) The gearing is optimized for the motors power, to have no wasted torque at the maximum speed... will mean, if he gears higher, the car will be slower, because of the lack of torque... and if he gears down, the car will be slower, because of the lack of rpm... 2 Things here... 1. this car uses 2 frontwheels= to much rolling resistance... 2. this steering mechanism will work for his so called "high speed" wich is below 20 kph... we are talking about 40 kph... its pretty much different ;) We had the discussion about suspension allready 1 year ago :D At the end... we all decidet, to not use any suspesnio... the negative things on it dominate the positive ones in our purpose. Nice to hear :)
  5. Nice to see you back :D I was thinking about reactivating my work on this also in the next weeks :) My eyes are looking right?... you have 10 Motors and 5 RC-Units now? ... holy shit :D Well i have to say, i also collected some... i have 11 Motors and 3 (or 4, one is electrically damaged) RC Units now. But in the last months i was building on a 6x6 truck with 3 rc-units and 6 motors... so i have to deal with the lack of rc-units... Now lets come to the project... 3 RC-units, 8 Motors? Looks like you want to try my 3 motors per rc-unit-idea? Or will you add a 4th rc-unit? To the steering... i think braking the rear wheels should work ok... best to do this at the rims, to save the tires. Another idea... what about using a turntable to mount the frontwheel on? ... using the servo-output to rotate the turntable with the wheel, completeley including motors? You could center the turntable with springs on the left and right side, connected back to the chassis. Third idea... an air rudder?
  6. Hello :) Anyone of you got some imformations about the current limitation of the old 9V battery boxes 4760c01 ? [img=] I dont have one yet... but from some pictures i saw, it seem to have the same heat-protection-element then the 2847c01. How many amps does it supply, without kicking in the protection? Thanks for help :) Summse
  7. Hey guys... while disassembling my newest purchase 8366 RC Supersonic Racer, i was pretty much surprised, when i looked at the serial numbers of the rc-parts. As you can see in the following images, there is the same number on ALL 4 electronical parts (each motor, the RC-unit and the remote). RC-unit motor 1+ motor 2 remote At my first 8366-set there was a different number on each part, as you can see in the following images: rc unit motor 1 motor 2 remote Does this mean, that my first model was put together from different sets? Or did they simply mix the parts at a special date of the production? Also i see a 5-digit serial number on one of my additionally bought motors, wich also includes a letter and not just numbers. Another special thing about this motor is the motorcover on the side, as you can see in the following pictures. I guess the 5-digit one is the newest, maybe out of a 8287 Motorbox-set, or a 8421 Mobile Crane-set? seperatly bought motor serial number 225K8 serial number 6292, 3282, 1263, 5383 Does anyone have more detailled information about all this?
  8. Today i found this part in a bulk of Lego wich i bought. Did anyone ever try to use this as a damper, combined with a hard spring, to replicate a real car suspension? -> like this:
  9. Why not? A real damper works with the friction of a liquid, and can like this work in a non linear way. This part would bring a linear damping, because the frictoin will stay the same at all speeds of compression. But anyway seems there is no interest in damping lego RC-cars at all. I think its true... a damping would only be interesting at big and fast models... and the most models are big OR fast...
  10. Well sure... a sprung wheel without a damper will allways jump like a rubberball and like this loose traction pretty often. The damper helps to keep the wheel at the ground all the time. You can see how important dampers are in this video. Driving without dampers looks really funny... but no car would be able to drive like this ;)
  11. The damper is bigger, and the shown part allready has the 1 stud offset at the bottom... so it fits 1:1 with a large spring. Have you seen lego-rc cars with big travel offroad at high speeds? For example this one: Compare it to a real RC-Car... The Lego RC-car will allways look like a toy... because the suspension is just sprung, and not damped... thats the big difference.
  12. I quess you coupled the 2 motors by one axle...? Just seperate this connection... use 1 motor for each wheel, and here you go... you will have your differential-effect ;) BTW... i guess, its the Tesla T1 wich you rebuildet.. right?
  13. I know i found a 60 degres stepper a few month agao, in some vidoes i saw on yt. Now i could really need it, but i dont find it again :( Does anyone have a link to a working 60 degres stepper, wich can be controlled manual or by servo? Thanks :)
  14. TechnicSummse

    [HELP] 60° degres stepper

    @Didumos69 @Zero (Zblj) I would also be interested, in how they engage. Are the positions like: siwtched left; middle position left; middle position right; switched right? Can the driving rings run 100% freely in the "middle" positions?
  15. TechnicSummse

    [HELP] 60° degres stepper

    Hmm, downgearing is also a nice idea :D Like this i could use every 90° stepper... just gear it down 1:1,5 and i have 60° steps...
  16. TechnicSummse

    [HELP] 60° degres stepper

    @Charbel Not the one i have seen... but really cool! Thank you :)
  17. Try doubeling just the output from the one motor, this should be pretty easy, and room-saving.
  18. TechnicSummse

    [MOC] Ocean Racer

    Any news to this? I didnt found the topic again... wanted to ask a few weeks ago allready...
  19. Is the screw printed, or a lego one? Do you know how much rpm the screw does?
  20. TechnicSummse


    @Leonard Goldstein Verry nice little car :) Were there no problems at all with the chain links? I am pretty surprised you can power them with a L-motor without problems of falling apart. Also no problems in the rough terrain ... they did not shake off? And again i am suprised, you did not support the 16t gear on the sides... on the front and rear axle ? The only supports for the rear and front axle are the wheel-hubs?
  21. TechnicSummse

    Motor overheat?

    Well yes... as i thought... this is the problem. The old battery-boxes deliver even less power then the PF-boxes. With the PF-Box it will work a little bit better... but still, if you load the motors to much, the battery-box will give up fast. Your chassis seems to be pretty light, so maybe you are lucky, and the PF-Box could work ok. But for full power, at hills or with a heavier chassis you will need 1 battery-box for each motor.
  22. TechnicSummse

    Motor overheat?

    Hi YamaLP, welcome to Eurobricks. Wich batterbox are you using? The buggy-motors need a lot of power, and the regular PF-battery-boxes cannot suply enough power for loaded buggy-motors. You need at least 1 battery-box for each buggy-motor, or buwizz or the Lego-RC-unit. Could you post an image of your car?
  23. TechnicSummse

    Volvo FH16 750

    Nice performance! What is the PF-IR-receiver for? Just for turning the lights on and off? How did you adapt the Dirt Crusher parts to the wheels? The crossaxle on Dirt Crusher is like twice as big, as the regula cross axles.. isnt it?
  24. TechnicSummse

    Ropa Maus 5 Sugarbeet Loader

    Wow... this is so huge... and its just crazy how many motors and pneumatics are in there. I can't wait to see the video