10233 Horizon Express

[Lazarus]

Bricklink mostly keep an eye on Trademe.

My wife mum lives in the uk and hunts around car boot sales for them also.

Cost nz is about $5nz per streight.

i have about 40 and 100 bends.

[ZueriHB]

It is really a beatiful train, isn't it:

[CamelBoy68]

It is really a beatiful train, isn't it:

no argument here.

I like the change you made to the chevrons on the engine

[Hrw-Amen]

So what solutions have people come up with for the two motors in the front engine then? I've been trying to fit in all the wires but am finding it hard to find somewhere to put the switch for making the second motor run the same way and still being able to get the roof on. Any pictures of how you have done this?

[Cnd]

I've become obsessed with modifying this set to be as close to the original as possible :P I have a question about the length of the coaches next to the locomotives and those in the middle (overall the lego set seems short and caricature-like). From what I've read, the coach bogies next to the locomotive are powered. These coaches also seem longer than those in the middle (but the only sensible picture I found is of a toy train set for sale here: http://www.trainsfrancais.com/forum/post341703.html ). Is anyone aware of any sites with better pictures of the original and or schematics/blueprints of the trains and coaches?

[English Electric]

So what solutions have people come up with for the two motors in the front engine then? I've been trying to fit in all the wires but am finding it hard to find somewhere to put the switch for making the second motor run the same way and still being able to get the roof on. Any pictures of how you have done this?

I have opened up the second motor unit and reversed te wires to the motor inside, it is relatively simple if you have soldering equipment.

[Hrw-Amen]

I have finally got around the problem but it is a very very big squeeze to get it all in.

1: Having the three electric bricks on one side of the IR unit does not work as then the pantograph cannot sit properly and is a weird angle.

2: I had the idea to use the small extension lead to stack the electric bricks (Two from the motors and one from the lights.) under the IR unit. I did this by attaching the small extension lead to the three connectors. It then will fit neatly under the IR unit with just one connector, (The other end of the extension lead.) plugged to the IR Unit. That way the pantograph sits where it is supposed to be.

3: But that does leave an awful lot of wire to go under the battery box and it was impossible to get it to sit flush with the top of the tiles.

4: I removed the two blue handle (Modified tiles.) and the two black cheese bricks from inside as they appeared to serve do functional purpose.

5: I also moved forwards the middle brick in the lighting wire so that it gave more space up front to hide the wires in. It is flush with the level the battery box sits on the floor so does not in itself disrupt the placing of the battery box.

6: That left enough space to mount the motor direction switch behind the drivers chair.

7: it was then a case of trying to bury as much of the wire under the battery box (Without forcing it up.) and the rest under the motor direction switch out of view. It took several goes and I had to dismantle half the locomotive to be able to push it in, but it went in at the end allowing the roof to sit on properly.

8: I would have liked more room as it is very cramped but alas there was no more. I would have liked to switch the way the motor was running by opening the body and re-soldering it but I have no equipment to do that with.

9: I may change it if it does not run well to have the loco at the back powered with the second motor but I will have to get another battery box for that as I only had one going. I think I'll do that as then I can run the rear red lights as well and neither engine will be as crowded.

10: Has anyone else managed to get around the half'ish brick offset between the brick built rear bogie and the actual motor? I have not yet run it on the track so am not sure if it looks odd or is just so small you cannot hardly notice it unless you are looking for it in which case I won't worry too much especially since I am likely to change it later anyway.

11: Those of you who have done it:- A. Will one motor be enough to pull the whole lot as in two engines and four coaches? (I suspect it will on the straight but not around sharp bends. B. Does it work better with two motors in the front or one in the front and one at the back? I know we discussed this a while ago but that was before we had a chance to actually get hold of the train and try it so now we have it what are people's thoughts?

[Dan-147]

Will one motor be enough to pull the whole lot as in two engines and four coaches? (I suspect it will on the straight but not around sharp bends. B. Does it work better with two motors in the front or one in the front and one at the back? I know we discussed this a while ago but that was before we had a chance to actually get hold of the train and try it so now we have it what are people's thoughts?

I haven't gotten the Horizon Express yet so I can't say if one motor is enough. What I do know from the Maersk Train is that the brick-built bogie with the technic axles (front one on the Horizon Express) is a horrible source of friction; much, much more than the bogie with the train wheel holder with the RC Train wheels (back one on the Horizon Express). Whatever you do, I'd make sure that all unpowered bogies did not have technic axles, even if it means getting extra parts.

Dan-147

[Zed_43]

I've become obsessed with modifying this set to be as close to the original as possible :P I have a question about the length of the coaches next to the locomotives and those in the middle (overall the lego set seems short and caricature-like). From what I've read, the coach bogies next to the locomotive are powered. These coaches also seem longer than those in the middle (but the only sensible picture I found is of a toy train set for sale here: http://www.trainsfra...post341703.html ). Is anyone aware of any sites with better pictures of the original and or schematics/blueprints of the trains and coaches?

Hey CND! I'm planing to do as you: modifying it to be as closed to the origianl.

Here is a picture for you (it is the same TGV in its new color (llok at the roof of engine to be sure). Just type TGV Sud Est in google):

http://www.hornbyinternational.com/2552/tgv-sud-est-renove-coffret-de-4-elements.jpg

and this one:

http://www.hornbyinternational.com/2551/tgv-sud-est-renove-voiture-intermediaire-de-1ere-classe.jpg

You have to notice that the first passenger coach on each end (after engine) in longer than the other passenger coaches!

What I will do: extend the end of engines by the length of a motor bogie (11 studs) and apply tgv logo, extend first and last passenger coach (by the end in contact with engine) by 10 studs and let other passenger coaches as they are!

You are right, in the TGV Sud Est, bogies next to the engines are motorized. You can take a look here (but it's in french):

http://actgv.fr/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Bogie-des-TGV-PSE-2012.pdf

And it seems that new tgv, no passenger coach bogie is motorized: only engine bogies: http://actgv.fr/wp-content/uploads/2012/05/Bogie-des-TGV-Atlantique-Reseau.pdf

But if you power all engines that are meant to be: you'll need 6 motors (3 by each ends!)!!!! Hope if you do so, that you're running 9v motors!

[ZueriHB]

A solution to get lights and two PF motors with two Battery boxes, two IR receivers and one pole reverser and no additional parts except the leftovers from the two HE sets:

On the rear engine, I installed the pole reverser instead of the drivers seat:

To converse channels, I connected the PF lights directly to the battery (the Lights now constantly light up)

As the roof does no longer fit, I had to redesign it, and found a nice solution which only uses leftover parts from the set (incl. extras of small 1x1 bricks and slopes)

With this design, it's now possible to turn the engine on or off or to connect a charger:

And this is the end result:

[HenrikLego]

I haven't gotten the Horizon Express yet so I can't say if one motor is enough. What I do know from the Maersk Train is that the brick-built bogie with the technic axles (front one on the Horizon Express) is a horrible source of friction; much, much more than the bogie with the train wheel holder with the RC Train wheels (back one on the Horizon Express). Whatever you do, I'd make sure that all unpowered bogies did not have technic axles, even if it means getting extra parts.

Dan-147

I tested two Horizon Express today with a single motor. I also did as you said: Removed the technic axle wheels and added RC Train wheels. I think it manages quite okay in sharp bends with just one motor. I tried with two motors as well (in the same engine) and the result was better. Both at top speed and in the bends, but for now I'm using it with a single engine. Here is a video that shows my test run:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jOz8F6hKitw

Edited January 20, 2013 by HenrikLego

[Man with a hat]

I've become obsessed with modifying this set to be as close to the original as possible :P I have a question about the length of the coaches next to the locomotives and those in the middle (overall the lego set seems short and caricature-like). From what I've read, the coach bogies next to the locomotive are powered. These coaches also seem longer than those in the middle (but the only sensible picture I found is of a toy train set for sale here: http://www.trainsfra...post341703.html ). Is anyone aware of any sites with better pictures of the original and or schematics/blueprints of the trains and coaches?

Well I was wondering about the same thing. Maybe I could modify the coaches to 2nd class as well, but how many would I need? I found the following website with more information on the dimensions and formations of the TGV trains: http://www.railfaneurope.net/tgv/indextrainset.html Hopefully that will be usefull.

For now my first thing to do will be to put two engines in the front motor car. Looking at all the results here it shouldn't be that difficult.

[Lazarus]

I think i have it easy i am going 9v.

So two motors in the main train. 9v to pf cable running off a motor to the pf lights.

Rear loco will have a dummy 9v motor (no motor inside just used for the pick ups) running to another set of pf lights and done.

Just need to save for the pf parts as i am poor after buy the two sets of these.

But it is an amazing set the most modding i am going to do is make the 4 coaches inside diffrent when i find time.

[Hrw-Amen]

So here is my Horizon Express. I was actually very surprised at how well it ran, but I am going to have to get a second battery box to power the rear lights.

[Lazarus]

I like those masts good idea might need to take that one. :-P

[Lazarus]

My Horizon

http://www.facebook....&type=2

Just need to get my lights they are on order and on the way.

Edited January 21, 2013 by Lazarus

[Hrw-Amen]

I like those masts good idea might need to take that one. :-P

There are some more pictures on my flickr pages. At the moment I am trying to get enough track ballasted to go all around the room but there is only enough done for half way so far. I also only have enough masts for half the track, then again the others bits that are done all the time, (The ballasted bits.) are behind the chairs and furniture as it is hard to get to them.

[Cnd]

Thanks a lot Zed_43 and Man with a hat!

The regular coaches also seem longer in the original than their lego counterparts. At the very least, they have 6 (not 5) windows (besides the bar). I plan on buying 3 (4 if I can gather the money ;P ) sets, which will mean some left-over pieces from the engines.

Zed_43, how do you plan on extending the engine and coaches? The main problem I see is that the train baseplates have very thin side walls, which allow the standard bogies to turn. Brick-built bases with standard bogies need to be

a) wider (not an option for me)

b) higher (the wheels are already unproportionally large and high imho, and taking the train even higher doesn't seem like a great idea)

However, I'm thinking of going with

c) customizing the standard bogies. This requires technic axles for the wheels, which also means a non-standard brick-built outside cover for the wheels. This allows the point of contact of the bogies and the base to be a 2x2 brick, rather than 4x6, and a lower bogie overall (except in the 2x2 center, where it contacts the base, however this is not a problem for turning). Not sure how this will impact stability. One bogie in each coach, however, can always have the standard 4x6 connection with the base.

[Zed_43]

@cnd: my train baseplate won't be higher, just thiner (1 plate high instead of two: it means no "side walls" as you say). It is only the "hole" for the wheels that will seem a bit higher from the sides (i don't know if i am clear).

[PsyKater]

Nice to know others have the same problem - mine regularly take huge pleasure in chasing and then deftly 'de-pantographing' my 7740 and 7745 :) I'm expecting the same problem with the Horizon Express...

It's not a bug - it's a feature!

I like the change you made to the chevrons on the engine

That is really good! Good 'ol classic train!

[LegoSjaak]

Well, finally here is the HE in my layout.... today i found time to make a video of it.... Here is the link:

Edited January 27, 2013 by LegoSjaak

[Missing Brick]

Impressive layout. Looks like you bought at least two of every set. Wish I had the money and the floor space!

[legoboy1a2]

Well, finally here is the HE in my layout.... today i found time to make a video of it.... Here is the link:

Is that one motor or were you just driving it so slow?

[LegoSjaak]

Is that one motor or were you just driving it so slow?

I just drove it slow.. i dislike too high speeds for Lego trains, although it is a highspeed train . And i cannot afford derailing the train in the outer corner of the layout.. no idea how i should get there, haha.. The layout is 8 square meters, and is on the floor of an attic.......

But is has two motors, one on each end, including lights.. !

Greetz, LegoSjaak

[Lazarus]

Mine runs well with two 9vs at the front end and a dummy 9v at the other for light power. Even with two it still slows a bit in the bends but at speed this train derails easy on the standerd bends.

So i am the same i keep the speed mid. But it can go really fast on the streght aways.

Edited January 29, 2013 by Lazarus