Jim

Technic Generic WIP / Proof of Concept Topic

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Here is a topic to show/share some WIPs or Proof of Concepts that don't immediately warrant a dedicated topic.

I have added it to the Index.

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Well, firstly I'd like to say thanks!
And now I present the latest result of my foolish obsession with making the best rally chassis I can:

800x451.jpg640x360.jpg

This one is gone now, I'm trying to get the front axle to have less resistance, as it was made like this:

640x360.jpg This lead to a lot of resistance since the angle part thing was bent a little in order for the driveshaft to go through it. The rear drivetrain was also flawed, believe it or not, 12 tooth bevel gears cant handle the full power of two BW motors!

So then, the latest version I'm working on has me using 28t gears for the rear, as they've been strong enough in the past, and I came up with a narrower front end, by 2 studs.

800x451.jpg

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Posted (edited)

In addition to WIPs, can I also post models that are completed but not enough to have a dedicated topic?

Simple kinetic model with Bling-Bang-Bang-Born dance

Watch with original

 

Edited by msk6003

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Just now, msk6003 said:

In addition to WIPs, can I also post models that are completed but not enough to have a dedicated topic?

Simple kinetic model with Bling-Bang-Bang-Born dance

I can't think why not!

Also, that's a pretty neat contraption :)

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1 minute ago, Aurorasaurus said:

I can't think why not!

Also, that's a pretty neat contraption :)

Good. I'm to lazy to make new topic so maybe I will use this lot.

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Posted (edited)

Thanks for creating the topic!

I am not sure now if it helps in any matter, but theoretically, aside from complicating the build too much, a 0 studs distance between the suspension arms might enhance the suspension overall.

I said I am not sure because in a few days I will test-run the chassis of the Flat baja-truck MAXX, a WIP that needed some work to be done to make it work at least at a decent level.......I will talk about the model in a more appropriate topic, but the idea is took over form another of my projects - the ”Something 4x4” concept, that had 4x4 drive-line with 0 studs distance between the suspension arms both in front and at rear.

The idea can be put only in large models, as it takes spaces due to adjustments needed to put even number of studs in the model. But I don`t think this worths the struggle as I don`t observe any huge impact on the suspension.

Screenshot%202023-07-16%20212807.png

LWR_T5_RC%20style%20baja-truck.pngLWR_T3_RC%20style%20baja-truck.png

IMG_20240327_190245.jpgIMG_20240327_190744.jpg

IMG_20240327_190601.jpgIMG_20240327_190632.jpg

 

Edited by Lixander

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Oh, I see what you're doing there--going for the absolute longest possible travel setup for the suspension links. That could make for a nice responsive suspension, but as mentioned in your other topic, it's not ideal to have your CV/Universal joint pivots away from the A-arm pivots like that

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, 2GodBDGlory said:

Oh, I see what you're doing there--going for the absolute longest possible travel setup for the suspension links. That could make for a nice responsive suspension, but as mentioned in your other topic, it's not ideal to have your CV/Universal joint pivots away from the A-arm pivots like that

Yup. The concept complicates everything as it brings other problems with it. I will see what I can do to improve it.

In the next week I will shorten the suspension arms for sure to address the geometry problem.

P.S.: The model doesnt have any problem caused by the drive-shafts from what I have seen until now.

Edited by Lixander

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Posted (edited)

Oh I have too many WIPs:

1:6 supercar:
20240328_075557.jpg
Ultimate 42110 mod (with swappable white or yellow body, and swappable tan or blue trim)
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This was my old 3 door chassis which is now just a parts donor: (it was a combination of the "pimp my 42110", gamayuns v5 42110 mod, and my own mods)
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Here is the current version of my 42110,  it now has 5 doors as per the white bodywork , the project is on hold until the 42177 mercadees 4x4 comes out, but it was a combination of gamayuns v6 42110, the pimp my 42110, and my own mods
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Next up is my modded version of set 42180, I wanted to add diffs, suspension, and steering on all axles as well as have the vehicle elonation
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Next up is my ultimate 42131:
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And lastly, here's my modded 42171 (i'm modding it as a build it):
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20240328_085012.jpg
Regards, Snipe

Edited by SNIPE

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Wow, a 1:6 car! After having built one 1:7 car, I can appreciate how enormous that'll be!

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Posted (edited)

My another WIP

Fiat Abarth 131 rally car

Function

Mcpherson strut independent suspension on front

Swing arm independent rear suspension

RWD

Spare tire on trunk

Maybe I will add inline-4 engine and openable door, bonet, trunk. Now I need yellow small mudguard. Or now I considering use orange insted yellow. Orange huracan will be good part donor for this model.

KakaoTalk_20240329_002010103.jpg

KakaoTalk_20240329_002010103_01.jpg

KakaoTalk_20240329_002010103_02.jpg

Edited by msk6003

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3 hours ago, msk6003 said:

A green thingy studless wip

Space garbage truck? That looks pretty interesting, anyway!

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An update on my 6 motor rally chassis: V2 chassis is what I'd call done.

640x360.jpg

I fixed the front steering so there's barely any bump steer or toe in/out. I also swapped from 12t to 28t gears in the rear, so now nothing should break.

https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/42077-max/v4/v4-wip

More photos on bricksafe, if you want to reverse engineer it or something. If I actually finish a build with this I'll make instructions for it.

I did a short test, nothing broke, and it was driving about the same speed as V1. My next challenge after I test this more is building it digitally, and fitting it inside 42077. Perhaps this will be a track version, as it's lower. Or maybe I give up the whole putting too many motors in 42077 thing.

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7 hours ago, msk6003 said:

A green thingy studless wip

The barcode garbage scanner truck in studless ? nice, a set i ever wanted and never had

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Good idea for such a topic :)

I've been working on this 1:10 supercar for a long time. It's nearing completion, although with my pace of building it will probably still take a long time before it's finished.

The bodywork (except the rear) and chassis is more or less finished, with most of the remaining work being interior, lights and various minor details. The chassis has a fake V6, sequential 4-speed, and of course steering + independent suspension.

800x533.jpg

800x533.jpg

800x533.jpg

 

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1 hour ago, jensbrix said:

The bodywork (except the rear) and chassis is more or less finished

Looks awesome! It reminds me of a Rimac, though I cant really say why..

In other news, I used literally every single one of my olive green liftarms...

Not sure if I'll build a chassis for this, though I did make sure it was wide enough to accommodate diff locks with independent suspension, so maybe you'll see some updates on this soon.

640x360.jpg

640x360.jpg

640x360.jpg

Hi-res at my bricksafe

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Posted (edited)
9 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said:

640x360.jpg640x360.jpg640x360.jpg

https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/42077-max/v4/v4-wip#

26km/h on asphalt and astroturf, 17.1km/h on grass and dirt. I'm finally satisfied.

Do you encountered any problems or had any damaged parts due to using 6x BuWizz motors? Also, the chassis is 4x4 or 2x4 and what output/s of the motors it uses?

I am thinking if it is safe to use 3x buggy motors linked with a single axle.

I want to put such a set-up in a model (the one with the 0 distance between the suspension arms) as it is pretty slow. It uses 2x linked buggy motors for the front and another 2x for the rear, both connected to a dark-bluish-grey differential.

Edited by Lixander

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9 hours ago, Aurorasaurus said:

640x360.jpg640x360.jpg640x360.jpg

https://bricksafe.com/pages/Aurorasaurus/42077-max/v4/v4-wip#

26km/h on asphalt and astroturf, 17.1km/h on grass and dirt. I'm finally satisfied.

That idea of positive caster just next to buwizz motor is simple, yet so clever! No wonder it is performing that great. May I ask why you choose 28-tooth gears instead of maybe 12-tooth ones? Are you gaining something from using bigger gears or was it just pure constructive choice? Great project and I am looking forward you finishing it and providing a video :)

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1 hour ago, Lixander said:

Do you encountered any problems or had any damaged parts due to using 6x BuWizz motors? Also, the chassis is 4x4 or 2x4 and what output/s of the motors it uses?

I am thinking if it is safe to use 3x buggy motors linked with a single axle.

I want to put such a set-up in a model (the one with the 0 distance between the suspension arms) as it is pretty slow. It uses 2x linked buggy motors for the front and another 2x for the rear, both connected to a dark-bluish-grey differential.

From my experience, 2 buggy motors on one axle is safe, 4 melts things. I only broke parts when I crashed, this time. The chassis is 4x4 from the slow outputs. The DBG differential that take 3 inner gears isnt really built for that much stress, I'd advise against using it if you have other options.

9 minutes ago, Krxlion said:

That idea of positive caster just next to buwizz motor is simple, yet so clever! No wonder it is performing that great. May I ask why you choose 28-tooth gears instead of maybe 12-tooth ones? Are you gaining something from using bigger gears or was it just pure constructive choice? Great project and I am looking forward you finishing it and providing a video :)

If you scroll up a bit, I was using 12t gears earlier. Unfortunately, because I'm not using planetary hubs, the gears are handling a lot of torque. The 12t gears skipped a lot, and melted parts since skipping teeth forced the gear to places it shouldnt be. Handling has been a long term thorn in my side when using 1BW motor per fromt wheel, so figuring out a way to get the caster angle is really what really reignited the flame for this project. Thanks for the praise.

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Posted (edited)
16 minutes ago, Aurorasaurus said:

From my experience, 2 buggy motors on one axle is safe, 4 melts things. I only broke parts when I crashed, this time. The DBG differential that take 3 inner gears isnt really built for that much stress, I'd advise against using it if you have other options.

Oke..........what about 3x motors on 1x axle? Does it puts too much stress or something?

And if I will swap the differential with some 20 and 12 tooth thick gears, it will change anything? (in terms of the motor stress, parts stress and so on; I know that I can change the order of the gears to get more speed or torque).

Edited by Lixander

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1 minute ago, Lixander said:

Oke..........what about 3x motors on 1x axle? Does it puts too much stress or something?

And if I will swap the differential with some 20 and 12 tooth thick gears, it will change anything? (in terms of the motor stress, parts stress and so on; I know that I can change the order of the gears to get more speed or torque).

3 motors on one axle isn't something I've tried, it might work. Something to think about is that the weakest link will always break first. So for my model that was the 12t gears, until I changed them. If you're using CV or U joints with differentials, the easiest point to break will usually be the cv joints popping or slipping out of the diff. If you can combat that, then you can worry about melting stuff.

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Posted (edited)
9 minutes ago, Aurorasaurus said:

3 motors on one axle isn't something I've tried, it might work. Something to think about is that the weakest link will always break first. So for my model that was the 12t gears, until I changed them. If you're using CV or U joints with differentials, the easiest point to break will usually be the cv joints popping or slipping out of the diff. If you can combat that, then you can worry about melting stuff.

I see, thanks!

A more complicated idea I have now, based on the rear-axle of your WIP, is to put 8x buggy motors on their speed output and to gear them up to increase the torque. On each axle (front and rear) there will be 2x packs with 2x motors each. The differential will be useless in this case, so if I would actually do this, I will swap it with some gears. 

Edited by Lixander

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1 minute ago, Lixander said:

I see, thanks!

A more complicated idea I have now, based on the rear-axle of your WIP, is to put 8x buggy motors on their speed output and to gear them up to increase the torque.

No worries :D

Some things I'd warn about with a system like this: 4 or 6 motors already provides plenty of torque. But also, using the fast output and gearing for more torque will get you a lower speed than the slow output. The internal ratio of the buggy motors is 17:23, 1:1.352. With lego gears that I assume one might use, you can get 20:28, 1:1.4, or 12:20, 1:1.66. So both times you're slower than the slow output, the torque gain is marginal and unnecessary, and the extra complexity from these gearings adds another failure point. I dont think they brace as nicely as 28:28. 20:28 certainly doesnt, and 12:20 does, but the pieces are physically too weak to deal with the power 2 motors.

However, thinking like this might be wrong, If you're able, doing things is the best way to learn, IMO. So go, try push that magic pole a little further. Best of luck.

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