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nicjasno

Chassis and suspension building techniques and approaches discussion thread

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2 hours ago, nicjasno said:

My future plans:

I hope you will document the development on YT :) Do you plan to use your own turntable hubs?

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I have a question about Ackerman steering and chassis design ... Is this an example of a Ackerman steering with the chassis design where the pivot points angled to the center of the rear differential??  I believe is so... can anyone correct me!! adding or removing the yellow bushings can adjust the steering length ..   

Lego Technic 8081 mods

 

 

Edited by sirslayer

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32 minutes ago, sirslayer said:

I have a question about Ackerman steering and chassis design ... Is this an example of a Ackerman steering with the chassis design where the pivot points angled to the center of the rear differential??  I believe is so... can anyone correct me!! adding or removing the yellow bushings can adjust the steering length ..   

Lego Technic 8081 mods

 

 

No amount of ackerman can save this. Pivots too far away from wheels, negative caster..

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1 hour ago, tomek9210 said:

I hope you will document the development on YT :) Do you plan to use your own turntable hubs?

Youtube, yes, I will try to use what lego uses, to enable people to build everything themselves. Only 2 moded parts if all goes well, 2 gears in the gearbox.

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Turning radious might be tough. I was hoping for wheel hubs with the new cv joints, but lego cheaped out. Those old cv joints are pretty useless.

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I appreciate your time @nicjasno and your advice is much needed on this website!! thank you for your evaluation of my MOC..   do you have a solution for the steering pivot to be closer on any 11 wide or smaller length for the front suspension and steering with drive??  the negative castor I can fix !!!   Can it be done?? I'll have to do my own homework!!  Great videos on youtube by @nicjasnoon all types of suspension solutions!!  

https://www.youtube.com/user/nicjasno/videos

 

Edited by sirslayer

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What about 42099 joints and hubs? I know that upper ball joint is fixed, but sides can be used for building a custom one hub over the existing one.

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5 hours ago, sirslayer said:

I appreciate your time @nicjasno and your advice is much needed on this website!! thank you for your evaluation of my MOC..   do you have a solution for the steering pivot to be closer on any 11 wide or smaller length for the front suspension and steering with drive??  the negative castor I can fix !!!   Can it be done?? I'll have to do my own homework!!  Great videos on youtube by @nicjasnoon all types of suspension solutions!!  

https://www.youtube.com/user/nicjasno/videos

 

I would use the new CV joints. Will try to devise something in the afternoon.

 

18 minutes ago, tomek9210 said:

What about 42099 joints and hubs? I know that upper ball joint is fixed, but sides can be used for building a custom one hub over the existing one.

The new hubs are useless because they are reduction hubs. I wish lego would make a version without reduction. I was hoping for one in the Discovery, but we got shafted again and have to live with a mere suggestion of steering.

 

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19 hours ago, grego18f said:

Some time ago, I tried to add the McPherson Strut on the 42056 set. This is what I obtained:

how was the looseness of the hub assembly with this setup @grego18f

I believe McPherson struts in Lego to be close to complete disaster with the small spring (I haven't really tried the long spring). only on a shelf model that will not get much use would they be any good and definitely not on a motorised set.

I have stuffed around for hours and hours the last few days trying to minimise steering looseness but there is a lateral twist in the small spring that shows itself (especially with large fat tyres with poor scrub radius from the strut build) add to that the normal steering link looseness and loose lego tolerances its all a bit disapointing in a way.

 

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@MangaNOID, the hub assembly was stiff. The only problem is this black section of the shock absorber which is bending under pressure... I have tried this setup with an axle and it worked fine. The spring taken from the hard shock absorber is not stiff enough sadly for this configuration. 

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5 minutes ago, grego18f said:

@MangaNOID, the hub assembly was stiff. The only problem is this black section of the shock absorber which is bending under pressure... I have tried this setup with an axle and it worked fine. The spring taken from the hard shock absorber is not stiff enough sadly for this configuration. 

You could replace the inside Part of the shock with a normal Technic axle...that inside part is made of pretty soft plastic, a normal axle is way more stiff.

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I think actually most of the looseness is from the ball links. If I hold everything else tight there is still play in those. There is plenty of sets with these links so I’ll have to build an axle from one, to see, to compare.

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18 hours ago, nicjasno said:

No amount of ackerman can save this. Pivots too far away from wheels, negative caster..

@sirslayer i couldn't resist the urge to add a kingpin inclination :) It's not perfect, but it's a starting point for your axle. You need to add some positive caster and you will suddenly have controll over your wheels.

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Here is a few pictures of LPE power steering solution I end up changing the design a bit since I didn't have the newer cv-joints .. i used an u-joint and shorten the width to 11 wide.. What I do like about this design is how the axle spring back to the stationary position after you bend it back .. I got a video to share ..Im surprised how plastics can spring back and forth without breaking it!!!  

LPE power designed steering solutionLPE power designed steering solutionLPE power designed steering solution

 

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If you noticed, the 3 black conectors on the top in my version are designed to prevent this springing back effect. They add a second pivot, so the steering works smoothly.

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