[GBC] Akiyuki Train System: Type 2 mods and improvements

[doug72]

14 hours ago, rskamen said:

Now I fully understand. Thanks for clarifying that. How exactly is the train unit cabled? Where does the M motor cable attach to? What attaches to the PF Switch? What attaches to the battery box? I am going through my BWE (set #42055 and gathering parts). Once I know what I have and what I need, I will begin sourcing and ordering.

The PF switch cable connects to the battery box. The Motor cable connects to the PF switch.
You have to route both cables so they don't foul the trip beam or the 3L levers that move the PF switch.

Edited March 3, 2019 by Doug72

[doug72]

MGBC Train Crane loader - WIP - MOD.

Stage 1 Completed:-
I am relatively satisfied with the studless framing and supports.
Its still quite a long module but It may prove possible to shorten the overall length and only use three support towers once position of the train reverser and loading station are determined.
Trolley arrangement for the chain runs OK.
Lift hoist trolley some work still to complete to connect it to the chain trolly.
Counterweight to adjust to match the weight of the hopper & balls.

Edited March 3, 2019 by Doug72

[rskamen]

On 3/2/2019 at 2:43 PM, Doug72 said:

The PF switch cable connects to the battery box. The Motor cable connectes to the PF switch.
You have to route both cables so they don't foul the trip beam or the 3L levers that move the PF switch.

I know that!. Only kidding....thanks for that explanation. Makes perfect sense.

The build you are working on for the Crane Loader is quite impressive. Good luck with it. If you are retired like me, you have plenty of time to make yourself crazy :)

[doug72]

5 hours ago, rskamen said:

The build you are working on for the Crane Loader is quite impressive. Good luck with it. If you are retired like me, you have plenty of time to make yourself crazy :)

Yes I retired in 2001.
Crane Loader build is a case of two steps forward one step back as each stage of the build is reached.
I am trying to modify the the original Akiyuki module to use a Type 2 train and as I don't have many studded bricks convert it to studless construction.
It can be frustrating to getting a solution but rewarding when you do succeed. I enjoy finding solutions to problems.
As an ex ships chief engineer I have had plenty of practise.

[Maoie86]

On 2/13/2019 at 5:09 PM, Doug72 said:

The image shows a type 1 train which only works on Akiyuki's original sysyem and does not need any PF switch -its mechanical reveresed.

Type 2 uses a PF switch which if you have them the old type with the small balck pole revereser switch is best but now becoming hard to find.
I am expecting one I ordered recently in the post today.
@Berthil mod does work but take care - I managed to destroy one when dis-assembling by cutting the wrong part off !!!!!

I am posting some more images soon of my Type 2 Train mod with L mod shortly.

Unfortunatly Flicka (Yahoo) have just changed their log in procedure and I am unable to log in at the moment.

Sorted - set up a new account, easy than trying to log on the old way.

Doug
 

yes. i interested in the type 1 train. please post more pics of it or are there instructions for it? thanks a bunch! :)

[doug72]

25 minutes ago, Maoie86 said:

yes. i interested in the type 1 train. please post more pics of it or are there instructions for it? thanks a bunch! :)

Type 1 train and module instructions can be found here:

https://www.bricksafe.com/files/blakbird/Renders/MOCs/crane-loader/Akiyuki Train Module.pdf

NOTE:- Type 1 trains will NOT work with type 2 modules.

Type 1 was not very reliable hence reason why type 2 was developed by Akiyuki.

[9v system]

1 hour ago, Doug72 said:

Type 1 train and module instructions can be found here:

https://www.bricksafe.com/files/blakbird/Renders/MOCs/crane-loader/Akiyuki Train Module.pdf

NOTE:- Type 1 trains will NOT work with type 2 modules.

Type 1 was not very reliable hence reason why type 2 was developed by Akiyuki.

after updating to akyukis latest design it works very well with plenty of power

[doug72]

Crane Unloader MOD - (WNIP) !!
Progress has stalled as I cannot get the lifting frame to rise and fall without it jamming in the profiled moving frame when moved by the chain drive.

Took a while to stop the lifting frame from tipping forward when ball hopper in place, even with a counterweight.
A separate guide rail on the base plate installed help prevent this.
Guide rail installed for profile beam to stop it drooping.

Cannot determine from the PDF instructions how to connect the lifting frame to the profiled beam that moves hopper up & down.
Can someone post a close up image of how this connection is made ?

Any help would be appreciated.

Therefore I have decided to go back to step 1 and start again but this time following the Akiyuki pdf instructions but use stud less parts instead for the brick built supports.
Once main part is built I will then see if the system can be simplified.

Photo showing construction at point where building work ceased:

PS, the red “H” is not a heli pad, it locates the train reverser.

Edited March 6, 2019 by Doug72

[Berthil]

@Doug72 It looks impressive, I hope you can get it to work.

Meanwhile I'm creating a Stud.io building instruction for the rechargeable train but can't find the stupid PF switch 8869 in Stud.io (hide unavailable colors disabled).
Anyone an idea how to add this switch to Stud.io so I can complete the building instruction? Otherwise I will publish it without the switch.
May be it is possible to import it as a custom part through its LDraw.dat file but would like to avoid to go that way.

Update, 8869 is a set number and part number would be bb339c02 (u9333c01.dat) but still not available in Stud.io
Update, it was fiddly but had to add the switch as a custom part to studio through three .dat files obtainable from ldraw.org

Edited March 6, 2019 by Berthil

[Berthil]

Here is the full train stud.io file with online building steps and parts list
https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=79421

After approval on Rebrickable I will post the link to Rebrickable which will also have a PDF with building instructions.

[Jonas]

To Berthil:

I looked at your instructions and was amazed by the aesthetics of your design as well as by the fine features of the stud.io instructions. I like namely the possibilities to zoom and rotate the assemblies. It is perfect! 

What are the main advantages of your design, except of the possibility to recharge the battery in place? Is there more space for wires? Is the lower weight better for car riding? What about car stability on non-rail parts of the track?  A how reliable is your new design of the gondola (the removable superstructure) mounting, when compared to the original, rather fragile one?

[Berthil]

@Jonas indeed train with rechargeable lithium battery has 25% less weight but also a little less power because it is 7,4V instead of 9V with 6 AA batteries. It ran fine for over 7 days at LEGO World and one charge lasts about 4 hours where in the end train runs slower. May now be longer since I went back to the Akiyuki carrier, the worm gear carrier requires more train power even with contraweights. Small downside is battery switches itself off after 2h, also when in use. Only need to switch it on again, worked in any situation, also when upside down in the rotary dumper :)
There is more room for the PF wires in my version.

All functions of the battery can be reached from outside including plug for recharging.
I found that two trains are enough to back each other up during 4h recharge but three is better in case something happens.
I have multiple trains so I don't switch the battery in one train only.

Stability of the gondola is the same or even a little better. The round plates on the battery are there to facilitate the lifting and placing back of the gondola. Nevertheless, when the train has very abrupt movements the container can fall off but the Akiyuki train also has this. This typically happens in the Akiyuki version of the passing module, in my version this does not happen. You can see the train working in my Scissor lift video where the rotary dumper still has the worm gear carrier.
 

 

Edited March 7, 2019 by Berthil

[Jonas]

Thanks, Berthil, for your detailed explanation and for the video. By the way, I just noticed that the LEGO rechargable battery box has been removed from their shop. It seems that Chinese shops will be the only option for those interested.

You mention your new version of the passing module. From the video it is hard to find which changes you have made, mainly because your module is in black, which complicates identification of building components. Is there any link to details of your new design?

 

[Berthil]

@Jonas only on Flickr making it a two way passing module but also still works one way, it's one brick high, I run the whole track one brick high for rigidity.
May be I'll make an instruction for this one too if there is interest.

The battery box was on sale lately on Lego Shop so I bought a few more to be sure. I guess and was expecting they will be switching to a Powerup box. This one is less interesting for GBC unless we find a use for the build in control via bluetooth.

 

By the way, if people value my free contributions you can help me with my Ideas submission if you like it, any help is very much appreciated, thanks :)
I tried it before with my Rainbow Wave but I guess that was for an audience too small.

https://ideas.lego.com/projects/e015f9c8-3faf-4308-b8ed-b5e09c6ebcef

Edited March 7, 2019 by Berthil

[Jonas]

Thanks for the pictures. They may help. Anyway, since the original module was not that reliable, I believe that other people will appreciate if you publish instructions for the improvements.

[doug72]

@Jonas Welcome back to Train GBC - a lot of improvements have been made to various modules making them reliable.

Edited March 7, 2019 by Doug72

[doug72]

On 3/6/2019 at 10:55 AM, Berthil said:

@Doug72 It looks impressive, I hope you can get it to work.

Slowly progressing.

The problem with jamming was caused by the front top track distorting downwards under load and allowing the lifting frame to lean inwards and foul the carriage driven by the chain.

The lifting frame traversing carriage has now been rebuilt and is now more rigid. Additional support now provided by a pair of wheels on a guide rail at base plate level.

It took quite awhile to get the height of lifting forks correct when at loading point and at the train unit. Counterweight now balances the load better.

The correct vertical position of the moving frame that raises & lowers the lifting frame has yet to be established.
Still trying to determine how this frame connects to the lifting frame. The pdf instructions ( for Akiyuki build ) are not very clear about this.

Now found how the the lifting frame is connected to the moving frame.
Moving frame shape has to be altered to suit my build arrangement.

 

Edited March 9, 2019 by Doug72
Update

[Berthil]

Rechargeable Train building instruction now available as PDF on Rebrickable
https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-22734/Berthil/akiyuki-train-unit-rechargeable/

Update, bidirectional passing module uploaded to Bricklink Studio:
https://www.bricklink.com/v3/studio/design.page?idModel=79882

Rebrickable link with PDF instruction I will post when approved by Rebrickable.

Edited March 10, 2019 by Berthil

[doug72]

@Berthil instructions look good - if its OK with you I will put the direct links to the pdf instructions for both modiules on the index page.

[Berthil]

@Doug72 that's okay, will post link to rebrickable when approved.

It's already approved, probably automatic because more approved MOCs.

So here is the link to Rebrickable with PDF instructions
https://rebrickable.com/mocs/MOC-22904/Berthil/akiyuki-train-passing-module-bidirectional/

I have my version 1 brick high but this instruction is on the same height as the original Akiyuki module.
I haven't tested it like this so report any problems you have with it please.

Only possible problem I can think of is train wil shake too much on entry because the inner gear racks are placed a bit too much towards the tracks. If that is the case I can move more gear racks to the outer side but this is only 1 stud difference in length. This because the track is placed a little lower than the passing module which is also the case with the original. It's the height difference between one brick and one liftarm, they do not have equal height.

If you want a trouble free entry I recommend a solid connection on equal height between the module and tracks like I did.

[doug72]

Index on page 1 updated with @Berthil  PDF instructions for Re-chargable Train unit and Passing loop module.

Edited March 10, 2019 by Doug72

[9v system]

6 hours ago, Doug72 said:

Index on page 1 updated with @Berthil  PDF instructions for Re-chargable Train unit and Passing loop module.

will you be adding the type 1 train stuff too?

[doug72]

12 hours ago, 9v system said:

will you be adding the type 1 train stuff too?

I can add the mod for the train unit with L motor, the other Type 1 modules are available on page 1 of the Akiyuki Project Forum.
I will add a link to them.
Who do I give credit to, You or Akiyuki ?

Are there any instructions for this mod ?
i can use your image & re-size it.

Re Crane Loader:
Do you have any tips on getting this to function, I am trying to make a simplified Studdless version using a Type 2 train unit.
Having difficulty in getting the profiled beam that moves the lift cradle up & down - keeps snagging and twisting.

Problem solved !

Edited March 11, 2019 by Doug72

[doug72]

Progress at last - I was almost at the point of abandoning this project !!

Finally have the traversing carriages sorted, had to add a extra carriage linked to the one driven by the chain system so that adequate support and bracing could be made the the profile frame that lifts & lowers the ball hopper. See video

Tried without the ball hopper and runs smoothly but when add train ball hopper its jerky, the counterweight needs adjusting to balance the load.

The module is getting rather large and consuming a lot of parts !! 
Next step - arrange trips & stops to get correct positions for the ball hoper at the loading & train.

Video at full speed with fresh batteries.

 

 

Edited March 11, 2019 by Doug72

[dunes]

Looks really good.

Have U tried to attach the counterweight above the hopper (frame). maybe this stabilizes the angle from the moving part better when load is on.