[GBC] Akiyuki Train System: Type 2 mods and improvements

[Frequenzberater]

20 hours ago, Berthil said:

Did you check my movie of the dumper because I tried to show the pulley system in the movie. Also visible at the end of this movie. It seems I didn't make any pictures of it, I will do so next time when I have my studio up but may be take a while because I just had it up for vertical train loader.

I made this pulley system for two reasons. I needed to clear my DBG frame otherwise the weights would touch it. And I wanted to run the wires straight up to the pulley system (so 100% perpendicular to the carrier) to have even forces on every corner of the carrier for a smooth as possible operation. And actually third reason was I could use the standard LEGO wires without cutting them.

That would be really nice! In your Videos the system is always shown from a top view. Side- and frontview would be helpfull. 

[doug72]

Slightly off topic:
I recently purchased & downloaded the PV Productions instructions for the GBC 30 Fun Factory built using parts from the 42082 Rough Terrain Crane, which I intend to build later when I break down the Rough Terrain Crane I recently completed.

Meanwhile using the PV Productions instructions I have built the automatic vertical ball lift module - using available parts I have in order to see if it could be used for GBC Train vertical lift module.

Now tested & it can driven by a standard GBC Train reverser and it does drive it OK, BUT very difficult to get consistent timing, due to the reverser unit dwell period which is not consistent. I have tried some MODs to overcome this, so far without success and I think arranging synchronising the train trip with the lift would be very difficult.

I intend to use the structure of the lift but with some other way of operating it that keeps it consistent & able to be synchronised with a train reverser module.

PS:
The GBC 30 Ferris Wheel module looks to be a very interesting and complex build.

[iLego]

Sorry for continuing the off topic. I had built one of PV Productions' GBC based of 42042. It was very flaky and hardly worked, though the overall design was quite ingenious. 

My son and I did have fun building it and appreciating the clever parts reuse, but the final GBC was a disappointment in the sense it would not work reliably.

So my sense of these GBCs is that they ilustrate the possibilities and potential, but they are not something you would want to put in a GBC display.

They are fun for "amateurs" nevertheless, since the parts come from a single set.

[Frequenzberater]

Finally, I got my train system running 

 

[Berthil]

8 hours ago, Frequenzberater said:

Finally, I got my train system running 

Well done!

[doug72]

 Improved Scissors Lift Mark 2.
Again uses a constantly rotating drive to raise & lower the ball carrying platform. Initially tried using a crank drive system but OK when raising but tended to drop when lowering due the low angle of the crank arm.

Now devised a method using a crank BUT not directly connected to the scissor framing, instead a crank with a roller runs along the underside of the bottom row of scissor beams on both sides (see photo)
The action is now very smooth without any sudden jerks or free fall.
There is a short dwell when lift fully lowered to allow balls to load.
A standard 3L crank arm proved to be too long so used four Lego Cams set at 2.5L radius (LEGO Technic Half Beam Cam (6575)

Loading position:

Transfer to train position:

Close up of scissors lift mechanism showing cams used for crank arms.

Timing:
The lift uses a 24T / worm gear to raise & lower the lift.
The train trip also uses a 24T / worm combination so timing for train departing was very easy to set.
Train trip set to depart after balls have been transferred to train hopper.
The train reverser uses a single trip lobe & modified to reduce the speed by using 12/20 gears in both the drive to train reverser & the scissors lift.
In order to line up train track with scissors lift a gear train was required low enough to pass under the track to the drive the lift and to align train with the lift. It may be possible to make  more direct alignment but train reverser would require further modification.

Ball Loading gate:
Not entirely happy with this as only loads  a few balls per cycle. More work required to increase the ball rate.

Video:

 

Edited February 7, 2019 by Doug72
Added image

[doug72]

Scissors Lift - Ball Control Entry Gate:
Now devised a satisfactory automatic ball entry control gate able to load 15 balls per train.
It took awhile to get timing and clearances correct but now operating OK.

Edited February 7, 2019 by Doug72

[Maoie86]

On 1/17/2019 at 5:01 PM, Doug72 said:

Don't think there are instructions - Its based on the Akiyuki version with modifications.
See page 20 of this thread for two images posted by @Berthil on Dec. 13th. 2018 showing the mods & construction.

Note:- this mod can be used for both options - passing or waiting - depending how the input tracks are arranged with or without switches.

 

On 1/17/2019 at 5:56 PM, Berthil said:

@Maoie86 I didn't make instructions but the mod is pretty straight forward like Doug says.

In addition to that I made the module symmetrical and more rigid for my layout, depending on your layout you can do what you see fit.

Welcome by the way, post some pictures/videos of your layout if you have a chance, we're always interested in seeing what people do with the train system. 

Thanks! :) Highly appreciated!

[Maoie86]

I also saw pics of a train module using L motors? is there instructions for it? thanks! :)

[doug72]

1 minute ago, Maoie86 said:

I also saw pics of a train module using L motors? is there instructions for it? thanks! :)

Someone asked about this before. I to saw an image but can't locate it now or find out anything more, including instructions.

I have tried to fit one into a type 2 train without success, an l motor is too long to fit in the wheelbase or it fouls the battery box.

Maybe there is a solution yet to be found.

 

Edited February 12, 2019 by Doug72

[9v system]

1 minute ago, Doug72 said:

Someone asked about this before. I to saw an image but can't locate it now or find out anything more, including instructions.

I have tried to fit one into a type 2 train without success, an l motor is too long to fit in the wheelbase or it fouls the battery box.

Maybe there is a solution yet to be found.

 

this would be the modification i did to the type 1 train car, i changed the m motor to an l motor because the m one didnt have enough power to run the crane loader.

[doug72]

8 minutes ago, 9v system said:

this would be the modification i did to the type 1 train car, i changed the m motor to an l motor because the m one didnt have enough power to run the crane loader.

Thanks for the reply, could you post some images of your modication of the type 1 train.
I will try again to see if its  possible to MOD a type 2 train.

Edited February 12, 2019 by Doug72

[9v system]

@Doug72 here:

[doug72]

Thanks, I'll put my thinking cap on !!

[doug72]

Type 2 Train with L motor - SUCCESS

Now managed to install an L motor into a Type 2 Train. Its quite a squeeze but now tested and working OK.
Only just fits between the two 12T bevel gears as it is 1L longer than an M motor.

Biggest challenge was mounting the L motor onto the under frame due to the bulge in the motor body but I finally found a way.

The 9L axle linking the bevel gears to each axle, is supported by two LEGO Technic Beam 1 Hole with 2 Axles 180° (27940)

The mounting the PF switch is the same as per original.

Due to the way the battery box is mounted the there was no room to put the original cross rod for the trip bars at the non switch end, but finally found a way to achieve it. Also prevents the trip bars from drooping.
It is now moves much smoother than before. Trip bars are 11L but 13L will also work.

I had to use a dodgy PF switch which often failed to fully shift the switch in one direction.  But now working OK with the improve trip bars.

Train now more powewrful and approx 10% faster.

Note:  PF switches this are now very hard to find and not all sellers aware of the different types. 

Side view:

Underside:


Close up of underside:

End view of switch end:

Other end view:

I will make a short video tomorrow along with some dis-assembled views.

Edited February 12, 2019 by Doug72

[tismabrick]

Great achievement @Doug72

What exactly is a „dodgy PF switch“?

Read it before but no clue what it is...

[doug72]

5 minutes ago, tismabrick said:

Great achievement @Doug72

What exactly is a „dodgy PF switch“?

Read it before but no clue what it is...

Dodgy means, sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't.

 

[tismabrick]

Ha, thought it’s kind of special switch because of this: “PF switches this are now very hard to find and not all sellers aware of the different types“

What kind of type has to be useed?

[doug72]

On 6/20/2018 at 7:43 AM, Doug72 said:

You need to use the old style PF switch which has the small black pole reverser switch which does not have notches and is much freer in operation or if using the newer type without pole reverse switch and do a Berthil suggests.

 

[tismabrick]

Huh, the famous Berthil modification ;)

I remember seeing an image of it. Need to search for it. Are those “notches” inside the switch?

[doug72]

3 minutes ago, tismabrick said:

Huh, the famous Berthil modification ;)

I remember seeing an image of it. Need to search for it. Are those “notches” inside the switch?

Yes, see page 1 of this topic for more info about this

[Berthil]

Just now, tismabrick said:

Are those “notches” inside the switch?

Yes although you can see them on the outside but you have to take the switch apart to cut them away and while you are at it cut away more until the switch goes with only the resistance of the electronic contacts inside. Put a screwdriver on the DBG notches on the side that face the inside of the train and thumb the screwdriver down on all three notches until it opens. Not a lot of force needed, just a good sudden nudge. On the side that faces the inside of the train so damages are not visible in case you scratch the switch. You can't get the train to work reliably without the mod.

[tismabrick]

Thanks a lot!

[Maoie86]

Thanks Doug! :)

21 hours ago, 9v system said:

@Doug72 here:

Can you post more pics or maybe instructions :D This is an option for those without the old school pf switch. or for those who dont want to mod their switches.

[doug72]

On 2/13/2019 at 8:15 AM, Maoie86 said:

Thanks Doug! :)

Can you post more pics or maybe instructions :D This is an option for those without the old school pf switch. or for those who dont want to mod their switches.

The image shows a type 1 train which only works on Akiyuki's original sysyem and does not need any PF switch -its mechanical reveresed.

Type 2 uses a PF switch which if you have them the old type with the small balck pole revereser switch is best but now becoming hard to find.
I am expecting one I ordered recently in the post today.
@Berthil mod does work but take care - I managed to destroy one when dis-assembling by cutting the wrong part off !!!!!

I am posting some more images soon of my Type 2 Train mod with L mod shortly.

Unfortunatly Flicka (Yahoo) have just changed their log in procedure and I am unable to log in at the moment.

Sorted - set up a new account, easy than trying to log on the old way.

Doug
 

Edited February 14, 2019 by Doug72