Technic Photography

[MaxSupercars]

You all forget one important thing... You have to post also your camera type... For ex. my Canon 5D Mark III can produce outstanding photos with low noise also by ISO 1600 by low light... That couldn't be said by cheap compact cameras...

Max...

Edited June 27, 2015 by MaxSupercars

[LennyRhys]

The best way to photograph Lego is to have at least one speedlight (flashgun) and, preferably, a radio trigger & receiver system so that the flash can be used off-camera.

I used to work as a photographer and I used Canon 580EX-II flashguns remotely...however they are powerfull enough to be bounced and can produce satisfactory results on-camera. The benefit of using remote flashes is that you can be very particular about directing light to specific parts of the subject that you are photographing, and the intensity of each light source (key light, fill light etc.) can be manipulated to achieve different results. Bounced light can't be controlled so easily.

Long exposures on cheaper cameras can result in noisey and grainy images, which is why the speedlight approach is preferable - you can use a relatively high shutter speed of 1/200th of a second and the exposure will be fine. I did the photography for my Lego MOC with one flashgun fired into a softbox, a silver reflector (well, a roll of silver foil!), and some white paper for the background. With some editing in Photoshop it's good enough to pass as a reasonably decent product shot.

D3200 handheld, F/9, 1/200, ISO 200, off-camera flash & silver reflector, edited in PSCC:

[dr_spock]

Radio triggers are nice if you have a flash hotshoe on your camera to mount the trigger. I was using Cactus triggers and Vivitar 2800 flash for an inexpensive off camera solution last year. I stopped since it is a bit too much work to setup for shooting daily minifig vignettes that aren't bigger than a 16x16 base plate.

Straight out camera shot. Handheld. Model on sofa with white boards under and behind. Flash off camera on coffee table behind and to the side of me and bounced off the low basement white ceiling. Manual 1/60, F8.0. I think it was ISO 800.

8854 Power Crane by dr_spock_888, on Flickr

Richer color on the first one but sharper focus on the second (assuming you´re using autofcocus).

Which is which?

P&S camera JPEGs tend to be more contrasty by default. The standard JPEG setting (Picture Style on Canon) tends to be more muted. Yes, I used autofocus on both shots. I used to manual focus fast action shots back in the film SLR days but my eyes aren't good any more. First one was with a Canon PowerShot A590IS, second one was with a Canon 7D w/60mm EF-S macro lens.

This is a great tip for those who use a tripod, too. I shoot most of my stuff at ISO 80 or 100 (P&S with manual mode) so the exposure times are often around 1/3 of a second. I use a 2 second delay which allows the camera to "settle" after I press the shutter button. It's the poor man's remote shutter, but works well to eliminate all vibrations from my cheap tripod.

That is a good tip. I use the timer all the time now even though I have a IR remote trigger somewhere lost in my camera bag.

[Jim]

This is a great tip for those who use a tripod, too. I shoot most of my stuff at ISO 80 or 100 (P&S with manual mode) so the exposure times are often around 1/3 of a second. I use a 2 second delay which allows the camera to "settle" after I press the shutter button. It's the poor man's remote shutter, but works well to eliminate all vibrations from my cheap tripod.

I used to have a remote, but I lost it (?!). It's probably in the pocket of old pants somewhere. Since I lost it, I use the 2 second delay too. Works perfectly

[Prune Face]

You all forget one important thing... You have to post also your camera type... For ex. my Canon 5D Mark III can produce outstanding photos with low noise also by ISO 1600 by low light... That couldn't be said by cheap compact cameras...

Max...

To be fair, you could probably shoot ISO 12800 with the 5dMk3 and make photos sufficient for flickr / eurobricks.

[MaxSupercars]

To be fair, you could probably shoot ISO 12800 with the 5dMk3 and make photos sufficient for flickr / eurobricks.

Sure, but when I make once photos I do it right and think also in future and advanced postprocess... I mean generally photos not only Lego... The base is low noise... It was only example because people send here shooting parameters without camera types... We can not use the same shooting parameters on different camera types... That I wanted to say... So post always also camera type...

Max...

[Moz]

I find that most of my Lego shots work just as well with my Note4 phone (12MP?) as with the Canon 6D. At times the smaller sensor is an advantage, the extra depth of field is handy. I take most of my shots just on my Lego desk using the pair of 20W LED floods I use as work lights while I'm building. I've glued a 1/4" nut into a bit of wood so I can fit my phone onto the ridiculous video tripod my partner uses for the 6D. That combo means I can shoot 4k video or take macro shots with low noise and impressive depth of field.

Now all I need is a bit of time to actually build/ I might have to quit my job :(

[MaxSupercars]

I like small DOF when it is used properly... As I have seen a lot of AFOLs capture their creations with small DOF where only part of MOC is in focus and they do it not the right way... I like when for Ex. the whole car is in focus and backgroud has got nice bokeh...

Max...

[miguev]

DoF is tricky, still haven't got the hang of it. I admire when (and wonder how) people manage to get just enough of the subject in focus at f/2 or even f/1.x -- I always wind up with a tiny fraction of the subject in focus and everything else much too blurry.

Another thing I find tricky is black-on-black shots. I've shot a few attempts but never tried to edit one to make it look decent, so I gave it a try today. I don't have a black drop background, just a big black cloth which needs some ironing... so I played with levels to make it the dark areas darker.

Camera info: Nikon D700 | 60mm(ƒ/2.8) | ƒ/8 | 1/250s | ISO 400

Strobist info: SB-600 TTL @24mm into 16x22" softbox feathered on the left, 2 feet apart, triggered with Nikon SC-28 TTL Remote Cord.

Edited June 28, 2015 by miguev

[dr_spock]

I like small DOF when it is used properly... As I have seen a lot of AFOLs capture their creations with small DOF where only part of MOC is in focus and they do it not the right way... I like when for Ex. the whole car is in focus and backgroud has got nice bokeh...

Max...

That can be very annoying when you're trying to study their MOC and think that your eyes have gone wonky.

I think distance of camera from subject and distance of subject from background and aperture all play a role. Now if I can only figure how to get it right...

[Jim]

I think distance of camera from subject and distance of subject from background and aperture all play a role. Now if I can only figure how to get it right...

Exactly! And the type of lens of course, but the distance to the subject and the background plays a major role indeed.

I tend to shoot most of my pictures in my studio, but today I have left my comfort zone and shot some very cool outdoor pictures. I will post them in a few days....let's say the 1st of July

[Freekysch]

Ooooo, I think Jim is preparing us something very cool ! I sense a very interesting and special photo shoot

[dr_spock]

Exactly! And the type of lens of course, but the distance to the subject and the background plays a major role indeed.

I tend to shoot most of my pictures in my studio, but today I have left my comfort zone and shot some very cool outdoor pictures. I will post them in a few days....let's say the 1st of July

Cool. Watchout for mosquitoes, they are not comfortable. Hmm, could that be an Arocs in the wild outdoors for Canada Day?

[miguev]

Can't wait for Jim's "report", only 2 days to go!

I'm sorry if you think your eyes have gone wonky when looking at some of our photos, but we'll keep doin' it...

If it is any consolation, I feel the same most of the times when reading from PC screens

[Jurss]

My photostudio yesterday

Result

Camera - Canon EOS M with default 18-55mm iso 100, 1/80s, 55mm (f/5.8)

Some small editing (crop & shadows) in MS photo gallery

[MaxSupercars]

Nice reflection plate... good Idea... :)

Max...

[Jurss]

Nice reflection plate... good Idea... :)

Max...

Thank You! Thats the idea, You don't have to own photostudio and expensive equipment, and even photoshop isn't neccesary to make normal pictures.

Now lot of phone cameras could make pretty good pictures, with some small tuning. Main problem (what i see here) is not enough light (direct sunlight also is not OK), and that there is no idea about scene. Try to use some free editor, just to crop main object out of the other uneccesary surroundig stuff.

OK, i'm also no pro, but i try.

[Werlu Ulcur]

I'm sorry if you think your eyes have gone wonky when looking at some of our photos, but we'll keep doin' it...

I'm a sucker for bokeh.

[tehkei]

I'm a sucker for bokeh.

me too! man I wished I had some technic stuff to photograph now. My current WIP isn't up to standard haha.

FYI lego PAB buckets make pretty good light diffusers. :P

DSC_6445.jpg by C. L., on Flickr

[Werlu Ulcur]

Welcome to my boat . I have so few Technic sets that I'm basically out of photographing material. Well, I can of course use the same model in different shots but I would rather shoot different models.

[dr_spock]

Can't wait for Jim's "report", only 2 days to go!

I'm sorry if you think your eyes have gone wonky when looking at some of our photos, but we'll keep doin' it...

If it is any consolation, I feel the same most of the times when reading from PC screens

Your blurred background is perfect as your model is in focus. I was refering to shots where the front half of the subject model is in perfect focus and the rear half is out of focus. Your eyes follow the lines of the model and wondering if you're getting vertigo as things are going from clear to blurry.

me too! man I wished I had some technic stuff to photograph now. My current WIP isn't up to standard haha.

FYI lego PAB buckets make pretty good light diffusers. :P

DSC_6445.jpg by C. L., on Flickr

Cool NCU - nice cup usage.

[Jim]

I was refering to shots where the front half of the subject model is in perfect focus and the rear half is out of focus. Your eyes follow the lines of the model and wondering if you're getting vertigo as things are going from clear to blurry.

I had the same issue with some of the pictures I shot the other day. It's not simply a matter of selecting f/1.8, because half of your model with also be blurry. You need to play around with the f/stops.

[miguev]

I had the same issue with some of the pictures I shot the other day. It's not simply a matter of selecting f/1.8, because half of your model with also be blurry. You need to play around with the f/stops.

Or choose very carefully, and then arrange accurately, what needs to be in focus to give the impression that "the subject is in focus". I find this much easier with faces: just focus on the nearest eye and you've got it (examples: human, duplo-sized, gotta try minifigs). With eye-less objects, I struggle to find that sweet spot, sometimes the nearest edge or surface with texture works with simple objects (example), but with vehicles I find myself clueless as to what is it that will "fool" people: headlights, grille, driver, wheel, ... what is it? Please tell us if you know!

Your blurred background is perfect as your model is in focus. I was refering to shots where the front half of the subject model is in perfect focus and the rear half is out of focus. Your eyes follow the lines of the model and wondering if you're getting vertigo as things are going from clear to blurry.

Like this? I'd expect such shots aim to highlight a small part of the subject, if someone provides only this kind of shots s/he probably doesn't want to reveal more details just yet... it's a teaser!

[metulskie8]

A race truck belongs to the asphalt ...

Photographed with my Sony Z1 Compact

[dr_spock]

Like this? I'd expect such shots aim to highlight a small part of the subject, if someone provides only this kind of shots s/he probably doesn't want to reveal more details just yet... it's a teaser!

Yeah, like that when presenting it has a final product. I think for a teaser the whole model could be out of focus, not just part of it. Viewers see the mystery of the general shape. Alternatively put a sheet over the model and photograph that. Or provide a clear close up of some detailed part of the model without showing the rest of the model. You want to build up suspense of something great is coming. Wet their appetite for wanting more. Just don't disappoint when the final reveal happens.