Moz

Eurobricks Citizen
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About Moz

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    Technic

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  1. Moz

    Track suggestions

    I have my TrixBrix order! So of course I had a little break from work to put it together :) First impressions are that the injection moulded sections click together slightly more strongly than Lego does, and they're as nice as Lego - smooth, fit well, and the trains run very happily on them. A double 60337 "fast train" will do full speed loops of the R72 oval without any problems at all. It goes over but doesn't like the R40 crossover any more than it likes Lego's R40 switches. The Emerald Express shown is also fine with it. As expected the R72 loop just barely fits a 1.2m wide board, it's technically 1.22 from memory. But the free gift of a double length straight track is slightly oversize compared to a Lego baseplate. It's only the width of an "O" on a Lego stud, but enough to make it hard to attach to a baseplate. The link below has a photo, including a composite showing the offset between attached at not attached (I over-saturated the unattached image to make it more obvious). But without a tripod and ideally a macro lens it's a bit fuzzy, sorry. The 3D printed crossover and switches are clean enough for 3D prints, they work, but they're fragile. The "firmer click together" with TrixBrix injection moulded parts means you need to be careful not to bend or break the little tabs that overlap to make the rails. At least the one I mishandled bent rather than breaking. I would be willing to pay a bit more to get injection moulded parts. Bigger image and baseplate shots here: https://imgur.com/a/2izDZAO (sorry, handheld photos with cellphone so they're not as clear as they could be)
  2. Moz

    Track suggestions

    For me it's about space. R104 is ~1.8m diameter which really constrains what I can build since my layout has to be at least semi-portable. I'm in the process of switching over to tables 3 modules x 1 (~2.3x0.8m) which will hopefully be a good compromise between irritatingly small and unmanageably large. (making a 5 x 3 module table with a 3x1 hole in the middle). Way too much time in BlueBrick plotting layouts, and the TrixBrix order is an R72 oval plus bits to give me a layout that fits my current 2.4m x 1.2m table, while hopefully letting me run 1:45 scale trains without too many issues. My current layout really struggles once a wagon gets more than about 40 studs long. Top layout is pure Lego, and the obvious gap is a section of flex track. Bottom layout has light grey TrixBrix parts. Both fit on 2.4 x 1.2m sheet of timber (4x8 feet) and have two loops plus some storage. The Lego track is kind of ok for a locomotive with one or two 40+ stud long cars, but more than that I get derailments. I have been tempted to get the router out and cut a (1.2m less 16 stud) circle then run flex track round it, but a sketch using cardboard says flex track isn't great for that (albeit I only have about 20 flex segments so that's 1/4 of a circle).
  3. Moz

    Track suggestions

    Ask me again on Monday night, I have a Fedex delivery from TrixBrix scheduled for Monday. Assuming the floods don't stop that happening. They've stopped me cutting plywood for new tables to put my new track on, since I have to do that outside (or in the kitchen, which might lead to me not being allowed in the house for a while...) I've seen the 3D printed 4D Bricks stuff in a youtube review and it did not impress me. There's an Oz guy printing it here so I'm sure I'll see some at meetings once I start looking for it. But the general rough look and the need to hand-sand it to make it run properly, plus some of the switches in Alex's review not working makes me a bit dubious. This review:
  4. If you can a 4k video from almost directly above makes it very easy (ideally move the camera slightly towards you). A lower frame rate is actually better because you're doing it to grab frames out of later. 4k is ~12MP and most cameras/editing packages now will give you very nice stills out of the video stream. You just have to remember that the camera is there and rotate the model/subassemblies so the camera gets to see all the relevant angles. I find that going over the MOC when it's assemble and taking lots of photos is also helpful. Disk space is cheap and it means later you can zoom in and go "oooh, that's what I did" to see how the final thing actually goes together. Second the LBG background. I use a bath towel as an assembly surface but a length of gray-ish cloth is cheap by Lego standards... flannelette or sweatshirt material in plain gray should be readily available, here it's about $20/metre in a 1.1m wide strip. Having a soft covering on the desk means small parts don't bounce much when you drop them, and the plain colour makes it easy to find things as well as making the photos easier to understand. If you're really keen adding a white (or black?) reverse side for the LBG chassis sections might help too, but I've never found it necessary.
  5. ... and my order just arrived. I have purple 7x13 ish sized frames now! Ordered ~6 June, arrived 28 June. Mostly now I can start building my 7-wide technic train wagons. The purple is just an "as well as" but could be cool.
  6. Moz

    CP Arco Coaches -1:45 Scale

    Wow, that's a seriously impressive level of detail. Those bogies! And the door details!
  7. I use a craft knife with a saw blade because that gives a fine cut without deforming the edges the way a blade would. I made a little jig out of Lego to get the spacing right. Basically the blade goes on one side of a Lego brick and the end of the axle rests on the other side. (and I put the axle in a a battery drill because I'm a bit lazy). Like this: https://www.metrohobbies.com.au/products/vallejo-hobby-tools-t06001-modeling-saw-set-with-4-scalpels
  8. I have thought about that, but somehow my little purist heart is happier cutting genuine Lego to make something that TLG actually produced, just in tiny numbers. Same as I bought about 500 12-long axles and cut them into 5+7 lengths, and 3+9 lengths. Because axles should be black, obviously. Unless they're trans-white but I'm not (quite) mad enough to only use the old school axles. They annoy me too, but since I could buy the real ones in bulk I did that. Just... 9L axles in black for $US10 each... yeah nah. 12L and some careful cutting.
  9. Yep, I couldn't see them on the Oz site when I looked just now. Most annoying. But the bigger frames are there (including 7x11 in purple if you're keen): Frame 7x11 black ID: 6265643/39794 $AU2.39 Frame 11x15 black ID: 6265646/39790 $AU3.28 Just ordered in Australia. As usual some prices are bizarrely more than double BrickLink, but those frames... yeah nah :) But from BrickLink I ordered a bunch of "axle 2l w' pin friction ridges" in black because the 1l version is hard to find and expensive, but I can cut the 2l ones down. This was the start of the Technic colour vomit and I will not forgive them! I have about 20 of the black axle-pin parts and they cost me an annoying amount to get. But they do wonderfully confuse Technic geeks when they see a MOC that uses them in the right places :)
  10. Since I have more money than sense I've been collecting cheap round bricks for some time. Partly for building trees, but also so I have something for excavators to dig in. But looking at the BWE, I think it's going to need quite a lot of re-engineering to be capable of digging while slewing. I suspect at least one XL motor one the end of a shaft made of 2x2 round bricks, or hopefully a 32 axle, then geared down a chunk at the drive connection. But I've shifted from being on the fence about this model to being quite keen to get one now that I've seen Sariel's review. In many ways it's my ideal model - a giant parts pack with a decent number of a new, useful part. And only one motor, of a type I only have a couple of (I bought several 8043's for the motors a few years ago when they were cheap... cheaper than BL'ing the electric bits).
  11. That's really impressive. The combo of finally a decent propeller and the high speed motors is genius. I like that you have a decent steering angle too, so you can get the maneuverability.
  12. with point 12: always on, I am less of a fan of that. The gap between a couple of microamps to keep the switch sensing circuit alive, and a few milliamps to keep the BLE module listening is often significant. I have some SeeSense lights that do this, and they run flat in a week or so if I don't use them or charge them. Admittedly the battery is much smaller, but it's worth keeping in mind that people will not be using every BuWizz they own, every day or every week. Quite likely a lot of them will end up in the back of a box somewhere for months at a time, to be pulled out when a model is finished. It would be annoying to have to charge them before being able to connect at all. I'd rather have six months life and a button than one month and not have to go to the enormous effort of pushing the button. A "24 hours then it goes to sleep" mode might make the "deep inside my MOC" people happy, or make it yet another user setting :)
  13. That's pretty impressive. I've always struggle with trolley rope tension and your solution is nicely elegant. And the half width liftarms make it all quite compact too.
  14. Yes, but it's much easier to cut half a stud worth off the end of an axle than to join beams together. I've done that just to get black axles in whole number lengths cheaper than I can buy them, and I suspect that's going to become even more necessary now that colour vomit has infected axles.
  15. I didn't even realise they'd been bought out. Any idea when TLG is going to integrate them with the main Lego line?