edsmith0075 Posted October 27, 2014 I am currently looking for feedback on how to incorporate 2 xl motors or even 1 xl motor into a 6 wide locomotive. I want to incorporate them into my GE ES44AC. I used the building directions from railbricks and have completed the model. Now I would like to incorporate 2 xl PF motors into this train. Any suggestions? I just ordered two of the PF L Motors and would be open to feedback on incorporating those as well. Thanks in advance Ed Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zerobricks Posted October 27, 2014 Just make them face each other. You will also need a PF switch because they have to spin in opposite direction. Can you show a picture of your loco? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edsmith0075 Posted October 27, 2014 https://www.flickr.com/photos/edsmith0075/sets/72157638606562524/ Here are photos of the model I built... IMG_1357[1] by Edsmith0075, on Flickr IMG_1358[1] by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zerobricks Posted October 27, 2014 An interrior picture would be better so I can see the gears, etc... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edsmith0075 Posted October 27, 2014 No gears yet. Im in the planning stages of trying to incorporate the receiver, battery pack and of course motors. I have seen some examples with the M Motors being incorporated into this model but my experience with them is that they are very under powered. I would like to make this train my work horse hence the xl motors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
garethjellis Posted October 27, 2014 Hopefully this will give you some inspiration, I used this in an 8 wide model, the motors are low power but put two in and they work very well, the next problem is speed, you will need to gear up a non train motor, use sariels calculator to find the gears that work for you, http://gears.sariel.pl/ I used a gear combination that closely matches the torque and RPMs of a train motor, Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Duq Posted October 27, 2014 For the XL motor the answer is simple: forget it. That motor is 5 wide and most of this model is 4 wide. The L and M motors are 3 wide. You can get the M-motor between 1x4x3 panels but that means less detailing on the side of the body. For PF you'll also need to put the 4-wide battery box and receiver somewhere. Your best bet may be to put PF train motors underneath... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edsmith0075 Posted October 27, 2014 I love the diagram with gearing! Thank you. So I will dump the xl motor idea. I am going to push for L motors and just ordered two. The receiver I would like to incorporate into the cab or cab area. The battery box I have modified and will post pics. I would not have a problem utilizing the PF train motors but this train is a 3 axle train, on top of that I already have locomotives with two PF train motors running. I want something stronger. The PF bogies also slide to much don't have enough traction for longer trains. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jtlan Posted October 27, 2014 I would not have a problem utilizing the PF train motors but this train is a 3 axle train, on top of that I already have locomotives with two PF train motors running. I want something stronger. The PF bogies also slide to much don't have enough traction for longer trains. If you're having traction problems, switching to more powerful motors will not help. What will help is increasing the number of driven axles (which you might be able to do by switching to PF power), but even easier is just putting more weight on the driven axles, which can be done by: Making the locomotive heavier. Try putting some dead batteries or a weight brick inside the locomotive on top of the powered wheels, and see if that helps. Taking weight off the non-driven axles. Looking at your model, I'm guessing that the weight rests on both the PF train motors and the non-driven axles. If possible, try lowering the top of the non-driven axle, such that the weight of the locomotive rests solely on the train motors. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
legoman666 Posted October 27, 2014 If you switch to 7 wide, you'd be able to fit the L motors in much more easily. With 6 wide spec, the rear of your locomotive is 4 wide which means you have to cover it with tiles. Hiding the battery box and receiver will also be impossible/difficult. Take a look at the Maersk and the new freight train to see how they hid it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
kieran Posted October 27, 2014 If you are using 2l motors you really need a v2 receiver as well. Assuming you are going for both of them on the same of channel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
dr_spock Posted October 27, 2014 Shouldn't be too bad with the battery since your engine is red. You should be able to find a red battery box cover on Bricklink. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edsmith0075 Posted October 27, 2014 Thank you for the advice. I have the maersk train with two pf bogies and it has been the workhorse but it's wheels slide them more cars I add. I am familiar with how they hid the battery and reciever in the maersk and that is what i'm trying to avoid. I would rather use tiles on the side of the train to replicate the appearance of doors. Heres the battery pack and power switch I made for my 6 wide trains... Mods by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Mods by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Mods by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edsmith0075 Posted October 27, 2014 Is it possible to get better results in pulling power with the PF M motors? Maybe I had mine geared wrong, in the past as I was very dissappointed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jtlan Posted October 27, 2014 Is it possible to get better results in pulling power with the PF M motors? Maybe I had mine geared wrong, in the past as I was very dissappointed. It depends on how much speed you want. My model of 2096 uses two M-motors, geared 1:1 to L-size drivers, and I've never been disappointed with its pulling power; however, I'm also not loading it particularly heavily (4x 10015, or a similar load; It's doing about 50% to 80% top speed in the video). 1:1 gearing is going to be pretty slow with the small wheels though. What do you want to pull behind the loco, and how fast do you want to go? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zerobricks Posted October 27, 2014 Also use the 4x4 turntables to connect bogies to the body to minimize the sideways forces on the drive axle which cause friction. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Selander Posted October 27, 2014 I put two XL motors in a green 6wide locomotive !! How? By using snotted panels mounted sideways to cover each motor. Kindly browse my Flickr link below and you'll find a picture of it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edsmith0075 Posted November 6, 2014 SO I went with the L Motors. I am grateful for the gearing picture posted in this thread. I will give that a try with the L motor. Does anyone have any other suggestions. I want to make sure the motor mounts to the body of the train solid with as little flexing as possible. I'm not concerned so much about speed as torque becuase I want this locomotive to be able to pull a large number of cars. Here are some pics of what I have so far. Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Motorizing this beast by Edsmith0075, on Flickr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Zerobricks Posted November 6, 2014 Here's an idea... What about powering the bogies from the center and using U joints which will allow them (bogies) to rotate.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edsmith0075 Posted November 6, 2014 Thats a good suggestion. I am trying to minimize the distance between the gear connections as this has been an issue and can create stress that steals power from the source. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
