edsmith0075

Thanks legoman666, your builds have been a huge inspiration and helpful for me with this train and many others that I am working on. I have liked most of your train pics on flickr as go to images when trying to figure stuff out like with this current es44 build. Your most recent Amtrack engine build looks really good and I am grateful or your detailed pics of the CSX es44 that you built. I'm stuck getting that bottom angled vent inserted into my build. I finally figured out the side grills. Those side grills were a real bugger and I keep looking at what I came up with thinking its gotta be easier and cleaner looking than this. I would like to fit two XL motors in this beast and make it my primary hauler, with the current rear vent design I have no clue how im going to fit those motors in the train. Well here are the most recent pics and I am stuck, any feedback or pics of advice to get this working out would be great. As always thank you all for the continued support. Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr There are additional pics on my flickr so feel free to check them out as well.

Here are some progress pics, Im looking for feedback for this build any suggestions on the nose and windshield? Here is what I have thus far. Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Now for the rear, I have been working on this pretty heavy now for a few days. I am struggling to figure out a technique for the rear side panels that have grills. The biggest problem has been building the lower vents on the back. I was going to make the bottom vents one peice, then realized that on the es44 there is a line/divide in the middle of the vents that divide them in half. Getting that half plate in the middle of the vents below the upper vents is the challenge. With the way I have the top vents setup it has limited the way I can arrange and attatch the lower ones. I would like to keep the color the same as the top vents red with black underneath. How do you guys feel about using solid black ribbed bricks to create the vent look? I want to trry to immitate the real thing. Here are pics of the rear section, please comment and thanks in advance... Progress by Ed Smith, on Flickr Progress by Ed Smith, on Flickr Progress by Ed Smith, on Flickr Progress by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr I will be posting additional pics on flickr tonight. Also there are a lot of other progress pics on my flickr account for others.

thank you for the response. i too have noticed the wider variety of track setups by modifying the switches and getting rid of that awkwardly lengthened extension. i have a large collection of enlighten knock off switches and am planning to modify them as test subjects. if anyone has advice for working with abs plastic, melting it down and then reshaping it or using it to bond parts instead of epoxy, please advise. thanks to all that have atleast checked out my post.

Hey everyone, Im looking for insight and advice from others regarding the lego track switches. I have successfully modified one, removed the long extension or switched rail. I found a tutorial on how to modify stock switches and was able to do so. The question is will I encounter problems running my 8 wide, attatched/fixed coupler and stairs, r-104 (ME Models largest radius turn track) through this modified switch setup. I have heard from other train modeling groups that they have to make longer switches to accomidate fixed coupler trains. I am under the idea that since i romed the majority of the curved part from the switch I will be able to attach a wide diameter turning rail in its place and not have the coupler detach from the car. I apologize if this may sound confusing. I am in the process of setting up/designing my trains for the holiday and do not want to waste time and switches if it is not able to be done. I would test it myself by now if I had access to setting it up already. Besides I figure others may have had a similar question since there have been recent discussion regarding the building of custom switches. Thanks as always in advance!

UPDATE Got my ME Tracks in! I love the product. I ordered all the sizes and took pics of the smallest of radii available ( I think 72?). Big difference! Check out the pics- Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Looking for feedback.... Any advice on being able to mod the lego brand switches to accomidate the 8 wide fixed steps setup?

Thank you guys for the feedback and advice. David you are right on about the weight reduction. I started on it already, the cross frames and other parts are overkill. I started working on another boxcar exactly like the one already in build except this one will have all the extras removed and I will use it to fix the orignal as well as a template for a fleet of these boxcars. Here are additional recent pics. I hope people do not mind the pics on this posting. I am trying to help anyone that may want to copy or improve my current boxcar build. I know I have learned alot of great and helpful techniques through reverse engineering better lego builders then me. Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Any suggestion for the door? I would like to add railings or something to detail the door more?

I tore the model apart last night trying to figure out a design for the bottom. I also strengthened the roof. Here are pics of the framing for the roof. the middle part was removed at the time and will be added back into the frame before finishing. Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr

Thank you for the idea of flipping the trucks. I don't know why I did not think of that. I also picked up weights for the new 8 wide version. I have noticed that even the upgrade/mod o rings on the wheels, they still slip when trying to haul long freight trains. Atleast this was my expience with 6 wides. Any suggestion on length and height for this model. I have been building my 8 wides with the ratio of 50ft = 40 studs or 1ft =1.25 Studs Hence I have measurements for this loco ES44 as 73ft =58 Studs (length of deck front to back) 11ft = 8 Studs (from the deck height) Does this sound accurate?

Last year I built a 6 wide ES44 AC with 2 L motors and a custom battery setup. This model turned out great, now I'm looking to upgrade this beast to 8 Wide and make it a primary hauler. Below are some pics thus far. I have included the old 6 wide in the pics as a comparison. Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Any suggestions on advice for doing this build are always appreciated. One problem I had with the 6 wide was that the 3 axle bogie would jump the track all the time when I ran the train in one direction where as going the other direction it was ok and didn't derail. Any suggestions regarding this? Ed If anyone would like to see pics of the ES as a 6 wide before I started to tear it apart, let me know. I can post them in this thread as well.

UPDATE! I wanted to post updated pics in case anyone was following this post or trying to build something similar... Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr As you can see I figured out a way to mount those widow frames as ladders! Now I'm looking for advise on completing the bottom and underside. I put a pair of trucks on it in the pic for reference but would like advice on this last section of the build... Thanks as always!

I am going to try and stop at one on my way home from work. They sell RC everything. I have been trying to get my hands on a 9 volt RC rechargeable battery pack to use as the power source for my 8 wides.

I am grateful for all the feedback. I will try the suggestions provided. I am going try to use the clips instead of the closed hole plates. If there are any other ideas I look forward to the advise. Has anyone been able to keep the lego train wheel holders and have them look similar to the Jacobs bogie or other more realistic designs? Oh and I am going to visit the local hardware stores to see if the tubing is available there. I think the thing for me right now is that I would like to build a few of these bogies this weekend and the tubing is whats holding me up.

Thank you all for the great replies! I ordered all the different curve sizes available through ME models. I think that was about 2-3 weeks ago. They haven't came yet and I am unable to test it out and post pics. Do you guys think that the wider/widest radius turns through ME model will allow for fixed steps on 8 wide locos like mine? On a side note... For anyone that has order ME models, I read on the website that it can take a few weeks for orders to ship. How long did it take for you to get your orders?

Im interested in converting all my current rail frieght trucks to a more detailed life like style such as the Jacobs Bogie which uses a brass tube to mount the wheels and hold them in place. I forget the RailBricks volume that had the details for this design other wise I would refer to that by now. For those of you that know what Im talking about, Where did you get your piping, how much did it cost and can you give a referal for someone selling it that you have had a positive experience through. 8 Wide TTX Intermodal Well Cars by Ed Smith, on Flickr 8 Wide TTX Intermodal Well Cars by Ed Smith, on Flickr I hope these pics help describe the design, just without the needed piping.

I have been trying to figure out a way that I can use the lego turning radius track with an 8 wide loco... that allows me to have the steps and coupler attached to the train and not the bogie. Below I have provided pics of where Im at with this. This morning it occourred to me that I should try to connect a freight car to the loco and see if it holds through the turn. The overhang that is currently being displayed in the pics really looks bad to me... Thanks for any feedback... Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr Untitled by Ed Smith, on Flickr