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Showing results for tags '6W'.
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[Edit, 12 October 2015] Note: This thread is discontinued. If you're interested in more cars of this sort please join me on Flickr. [/Edit] Hi all, after all the LCS and airport stuff it was time to build some new cars - or rebuild some older cars according to the actual scheme of widths. In this thread you'll find some actual sports cars (to be continued). List of cars in this thread #1 Ford Falcon (Mad Max Interceptor) #2 Ford Mustang Convertible #3 Ford Mustang Fastback #4 Dodge Charger #5 Aston Martin DB5 #6 Ferrari Daytona Spider "Miami Vice" #7 Ferrari 308 GTS (Magnum, P.I. edition) #8 Mustang Shelby GT 500 "Eleanor" #9 1970 Plymouth Hemi Cuda #1 Ford Falcon (Mad Max Interceptor) The old Mad Max Interceptor (which might be known to some people) didn't fit any more into the actual range of widths used in the town project. Thus the following aspects were changed: width reduced from 7w+ to 6w+ lower roof line (back of the fig must be slanted, but it works) exhausts are situated more under the body than before tanks dark grey instead of red some minor changes #2 Ford Mustang (classic version) 6w+. Fits one whole minifig (two are quite difficult with this setup). #3 Ford Mustang Fastback A sportier version. #4 Dodge Charger The Charger is based on derjoe's amazing design which is very well known (see www.flickr.com/photos/53163759@N04/8554110987), but with quite a few modifications. The main point here is that "behind-the-tile design" which allows some unusual slopes - a concept to be further developed, I guess. 6.8w (6w plus two tiles), fits one fig (two are quite difficult with this setting, something to improve). Some more pics on Flickr. Thanks for looking, c&c welcome as usual. To be continued.
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4/4/2015, EDIT: This thread has turned into some weird hybrid of a WIP and a 'let's see where I went wrong' thing. I've requested a name change to better reflect that. ~~~ I'm just gonna kill this project now before I regret my decisions: This is what happened when I tried to combine the styling of a 7-wide model from legoman666 ( http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=102535 ) and the mechanics/internal design of an 8-wide model from Commander Wolf ( http://www.eurobrick...howtopic=106654 ). Kudos to both of them for being willing to answer questions via PM, by the way! So, what went wrong? It turns out that you actually need to plan things if you want to do a 7-wide, because there's no good way to try and cram a what I assumed to be 6-wide internal structure into a 7-wide and have anything actually work out right. OH WELL. Could I save this? Maaaaybe, if I was willing to spend way more time than I have on it. Am I going to? Nope. The internal drive system consists of a AA battery box mounted vertically, with two L-motors driving a single four-axle truck each. There's a PF switch crammed in there as an extension lead/motor reversing switch, because I didn't realize until now that the trucks worked against each other if they got turned around by accident. Each drivetrain consists of a 20t bevel driving a 12t bevel, which then drives a series of 12t bevels to bring the power down into the trucks, giving a ratio of 3:5 for in-to-out. If I could somehow lop off everything behind the end of the 6x12 panel and still keep the fancy drivetrain, I'd be happy with the proportions; doesn't look like that's possible, so I'll be moving to a more traditional vertically-mounted motor setup without the extra gears. Maybe losing the extra gears will balance out in that I won't be losing nearly as much power to those gears, so the pulling power and speed will be somewhat similar? On my relatively small test loop, it'll pull five of the six Horizon Express cars (the sixth is the one with the motor and no battery, left out because I already have this engine to test with) plus the two container cars from the Maersk at a reasonable speed. Wheel slippage is definitely a problem, though I suspect it's because all the weight is in the center from the battery box and lack of body structure. The final revision I was envisioning before going to scrap the model would have ended up with the large plates on the side acting as a monocoque skin holding everything together. Leave your ridicule and/or constructive criticism below. Here's a cat picture to make it better:
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Hello Normaly i'm not a city-builder, but this time i tried my hands on a vehicle. It's a little pick-up. My attention was on the details, so that a minifig don't fit in. As a newbie i'm very proud of my new blinker solution. Pictures also on MOCpages. I'm looking forward to some comments of car specialist. ;) Jonas
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Indexed by Moderator After a long time I'd like to introduce my new train MOC, which one is actually my first 6-wide train, the narrow-gauge Stadler GTW. Fig.1: The whole train on brick-built train track. The second meeting in 2012 of hungarian LEGO users group (MALUG) was held last weekend in Budapest. Before this event on of our LUG members called others to build narrow gauge vechiles for the meeting. After thinking about my possibilities and favourited vechiles I started to build the first popular vechile of Stadler, the GTW. The coloring of this train is not autenthic, there are no OBB/SBB colored GTWs in narrow gauge, but I had only red and white bricks to use. The real challenge was to build the PF-system into the train and make it able to run on narrow-gauge train track (the curved track pieces from Indiana Jones sets in dark bluish gray and from Space sets in black). The LUG member called others to build narrow-gauge vechiles set up a test-track for all trains, built from this curved track pieces, including two S-turns. That was the test-track (with the little green train): http://www.brickshel...11/dsc_1882.jpg Firstly I've realized, that I've had to build one and half windows less to the modell then the original train. The radius of these curve is 27 stud, and my train actual length is 90 studs. The middle-section contains two PF M-motors, both of them are driving one axle via 12 tooth-gear wheels. One of the low-floor sections contains the battery box and the IR-reciever. The train has two yellow front lights on each end, PF leds' cables are hidden in the roof. Fig.2: Driven axles and coupling solution for the train. Left side coupled, right disconnected. The coupling enables about 75° turnout and looks like closed until 30° turnout. Fig.3: Turnout. However I did not have test track for the meeting, the train succeded to run on the test track. The most 'engineering' success for me is the coupling solution. Using SNOT slopes by the coupling looks really great, they are avaliable in lot of colors, and you don't need rubber. This method will work for trains with Jacobs-boogies, too, the only difference is, that the middle section is narrower. The front part of the train is built of prepared modules, it can be repared, changed without getting of the train from the rails. Fig.4: Modules forming the train front with power functions lights built in. Hope you enjoyed, please comment you critics here. AV
