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Commander Wolf

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Everything posted by Commander Wolf

  1. Commander Wolf
    Another shorter video with just shots of the loco running:
  2. Commander Wolf
    Yeah, new small brackets and funny tiles a game changer!
  3. Commander Wolf
    Hello all, almost ten years ago I posted the first version of my 1:48 scale T1. This was one of my earliest scale models and it was perhaps not that great and/or perhaps limited by the parts of the era. The model underwent many changes over the years, but at least from an aesthetic standpoint it fundamentally stayed the same. Having designed, built, and operated a ton more trains since then, I finally decided to do a complete rebuild of the T1, and this latest version shares practically nothing with the earlier versions save for the overall profile. Most significantly I moved the drivetrain from the tender to the locomotive, after testing a similar setup in my PRR Q2 (behind). This is a much simpler and more performant setup, and unlike the Q2, the T1 has coupled bogies and can navigate R40 geometry. It it also still an almost entirely purist build save for the BBB #11 and #5 wheels. Anyways, see the video for more details and running shots, and have a nice day!
  4. Commander Wolf
    I would like to suggest a "purist" category, thank you for your consideration
  5. Commander Wolf
    Thanks! I think there might be a better solution for the window with quarter circle tiles... or at least something close but more structurally sound. I have to play with it though; maybe if I run it more and the cab falls apart on me more
  6. Commander Wolf
    Yeahhh, I decided not to do the Q1 since it was a one off. Someday maybe that or the S1 though.
  7. Commander Wolf
    Hello all, I have recently built a model that might actually deserve a post. This is a working, running (albeit only on R104 curves) 1:48 scale model of the Pennsylvania Railroad Q2 duplex. PF or PU motors power all five driving axles, and the design uses no third party parts besides #11 drivers. See the video for a more detailed description.
  8. Commander Wolf
    Hello, it's about 900 for the 2-6-6 and 600 for the 2-4-4. It should be all official parts as well save for some small BBB wheels!
  9. Commander Wolf
    Hello Train Tech! I haven’t been here for a while, but I have been building trains! I recently came across an old thread on the Boston and Albany 4-6-6T suburban tank engine, and I saw a comment about its smaller sibling. Well, I am here to share not one, but two suburban tank engines, including the aforementioned 2-6-6T, which I still consider one of my best models to date. To make things as confusing as possible, the NYC called both of these engines D-2a, though not at the same time. The 1912 D-2a (2-4-4T) went out of service shortly before the 1928 D-2a (2-6-6T) changed names. Both engines can navigate all R40 geometry and are much more buildable and usable than my first suburban tank attempt, though the 2-4-4T has to use Powered Up due to size limitations. The two videos at the end go into more detail about each engine and build.
  10. Commander Wolf
    It's actually not scrapped, but it hasn't been run in a long time. I hope to make instructions for it, but needs some reworking and low on the priority list at the moment.
  11. Commander Wolf
    The marginally less unsuccessful Leader 2.0! I didn't see any pic/comment about it: what did you do for the third axle in the bogies? Is it sliding? How did you route the gearing around it?
  12. Commander Wolf
    Hello all, three years ago I finished a 1:350 scale model of the battleship Kongo, and now I have finally finished a second one! The Russian battleship Oktyabrskaya Revolutsiya launched in 1911 (originally as the Gangut) and served until 1956. I built the ship at the same scale as the Kongo as 1:350 is common for large plastic models. This video has more commentary and shows the ship running:
  13. Commander Wolf
    Thank you, that is exactly what I am looking for!
  14. Commander Wolf
    This is a really nice model. What is the scale?
  15. Commander Wolf
    For those of you who have taken the 12v motor apart, how do you open the case? It doesn't seem to have any of the tabs of the 9v motor; do you just have to cut around the entire edge?
  16. Commander Wolf
    Thanks! Are you in BayLUG?
  17. Commander Wolf
    Been a while for this thread, dumping a couple more larger/themed modules: Auto Dozer and Slide and Spin:
  18. Commander Wolf
    How did you remove the metal gear from the old motor and/or install it on the new motor? Just brute force? EDIT: Also, the 4.5v motor is pretty easy to disassemble since it has screws: does anyone know of a guide for dismantling the 12v motor?
  19. Commander Wolf
    Dat rotary phone
  20. Commander Wolf
    The body is very nice. I think you could make nicer trucks if you used Technic axles and the cross-axle wheels.
  21. Commander Wolf
    Clever containers. I did a double take
  22. Commander Wolf
    If you are using modern plastic track, especially R40, I think it's sufficiently strong to secure only the ends and let the curved section "float" on tiles.
  23. Commander Wolf
    Always depends on implementation, but I think in general cranks should be fine. I have at least one fairly heavy duty engine with one powered axle and the rest cranked, and I have not had any problem with the cranks.
  24. Commander Wolf
    Probably just that the rigid wheelbase is too long to take R40 switches cleanly. In my experience doing a rigid F-B-F wheelbase with XLs (single X) is already pushing it.
  25. Commander Wolf
    Thanks zephyr, appreciate your thought as always. I'm starting to get really torn on the R40 issue. With wide radius being used more often I don't know if I should care that stuff doesn't work on R40 anymore. I resist because it feels strongly non-purist to me (and I'm strongly purist when it comes to LEGO), but it does block a handful of bigger designs I like (say PRR Q2 or 80' passenger cars), though not too many. Which leads me to this next point: I'm a huge fan of the turbine engines (M1, John Henry, UP 1-75), steam and gas but they are all huge and would look silly on R40, though something I would start considering making to run on wider radius. The good part about the various turbines is that they don't have large drivers so it's easier to make something that will still work on R40 even if it looks silly. In fact I started working on the UP 8080 experimental GTEL, but never really got that far:
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